SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I've used the original without problems for quite some time. I upgraded to the pro version which has a lot more features but never could get it to work. It would always crash or show errors when I loaded the T/S parameters. Fits of rage and nearly throwing my laptop under a moving bus. Andrew Vaserfirer from HTS figured out the solution. After doing it exactly how he told me it works perfect! I wanted to pass along the info since I know several people have had issues. Again, this is all compliments of Andrew. Ensure that 'Auto calculate unknowns' is on even if you have all the data. This is recommended because WinISD Pro can be very picky about the data and if it is e…

Lets say you have a 6.0 cu.ft. box and you have woofer displacement of .38 cu.ft. Now you have a net volume of 5.62 cu.ft. before port displacement. How do you know how to calculate the port length if you dont know the exact box size since port displacement have to be considered. I know how to calculate port displacement but i am not sure about calulating port length with a changing box volume as the port size vary. Can someone help me understand how this is done please. I know to some of you this is a dumb question but am just looking for some help and wanting to understand how its done and not mess up any more designs. Looked through the forum but couldnt find the info …

Hello. I bought this car a few months back and the time has come for me to start with audio upgrades. I would like to focus this thread on the front stage. My goals: Two-way active setup. Clean sound. Ability to get decently loud inside the car, I have no interest in a parking lot party vehicle. Good, precise response in the listening frequency range. Installation locations: I have two 10" Sundown Neo Pro midbass drivers I am planning on installing, one per door. Around 0.5 cub ft ported, tuned to ~60Hz. I would like to retain my foot space, so for now kick panels are out of the picture. I have no problem with mounting speakers on the A pillars or on/under the dash. I ha…

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

i'm almost done. i didn't use any glue, cause if it won't fit threw the hatch, then i'm gonna have to put it togother in the car:( it is ~5.9ft^3@25Hz for my 2 RL-p 15's. it has to stay in the hatch(backseat has to stay functional), and with the side windows in the way, this is as close as a wall as i could get. enjoy! more tommorow

im starting my new box build soon and curious what size aero port to use. the box will be 4 cu ft. should i use 1 6" port or 2 4" ports i used psp-inc.com and both would fit with the size of my box. just curious what u guys would use!? Thanks!!

pics of sundays show... more pics to come as they are e-mailed to me

So I was using this box for my current 12" IDQ sub. The opening was ofcourse cut larger to accept the 12" sub since the box was designed for a 10. Was asking around and the idea was to use this design for my Icon sub that I purchased since I was getting rid of the IDQ. I downloaded the pre-designed enclosures for the Icon and after seeing them, I'm a bit unsure about now using my current box for this sub. Do you guys think the box below would work fine for the Icon? My current box is 1.45 cu ft @ 32hz. I knew it was going to be on the small size, but was told it would work fine. My main problem is space in the trunk of my car. I dont want a huge box and the 12 1/2…

Hello everyone, This is my first post.I currently have 2 dd9518g dual 4 ohm subs,1 hifonics sampsom amp driving these subs in a 12 cft box ported to 35 hz with 140 sq in port. this system is in a 2007 chevy avalanche with the midgate removed.I currently hit a 149.5 db @ 47hz. I have 24 cft avaliable for a new enclosure for the new season and would like to try a bandpass box.This is a daily driver so i cant make any major mods to the truck.The truck have 2 layers of dynamat on the doors,roof floors and bed of the truck.I currently have a dual alternator setup with 6 kinetik hc1800 batteries for a electrical system.Believe it or not i also use this vehicle for sq also.I am …

I'm having trouble getting the right mass to tune a PR enclosure I got ~1200 grams when I used a calculator online but 158 grams when I used the mass of the air in the port as my starting point. I feel like i'm missing something. i'm aiming for 8cu @ 26hz with a single 18" and two 18" PR's What do I need to do to get the correct calculation? The reading seems straightforward but I keep getting these two opposing answers. Thanks, -Chris

I have a 2002 Silverado 1500HD crew cab that I am wanting to put 2 xl 12s in. I will actually be underpowering them a little with about 1300 watts a piece when wired together to .5 ohms. I am not wanting a blow through I just want a box that may not take up too much room so I can have at least one person ride in the back. What volume would the box need to be? And how much port area?

Im really attracted to how loud this sub can get...but ive heard it an have some pretty imprssive SQ...qualities...i know about the BL Q and SSD but those just dont seem like they will get loud enough for me...so...BTL 12s in a big ass sealed box...think it might work?

I'm finally going to put my 2 TC Sounds OEM 10's to work. I have 2 10" matching passive radiators that I'm going to use, too. I usually go sealed, but want to try these out ported (so to speak). I was going to build one box with 2 separate chambers to specs (.6 ft^3 each) but was wondering if I could just use 1 common chamber (1.2 ft^3)? Another idea would be to get another passive radiator so I'd have 3 total for 2 subs in a common chamber? Would this be better than the 2 (I heard that you should have a bigger sized passive radiator than the woofer)? All inputs are greatly appreciated. Here's my current set up: 2000 (JDM) Subaru Legacy GT Twin Turbo Wagon Yellow Top Op…

So, Ive been sitting here thinking about about what I should do. I'm wondering if Aeroports could be a viable solution.

where should i start ? i have a newer truck 1996' 2 door Chevy 2500 x-cab. bench seat 60/40 amp is a Massive p3000.1 subs are Pap WMD-SPL 1000rms ea. anyone have expierance with this truck ???

I tried my hand at making an enclosure with miter joints instead of butt end joints like normal. This is going to make finishing the box 100% easier and take half as much filler (just having to fill the screws). I had always been turned off by the thought of miter joints because every one says they are so "complicated" and the thought that iff i mess up that pice is gone for good. Well now i realize that if you think about what is going on and tripple check its easier than designing a box with butt end joints, best part is if you fudge up a lil it isnt gonna be a big thing to corrct it. Case and point: My first set of 45's where slightly steeper than 45...i realized this…

Hello today i went to my local come depot and they didnt have mdf wood all they had was particle wood, if anybody knows where can i get 1 inch mdf wood at please let me know I AM A be building a box for my btl 18 pretty soon thanks.

What is everyones definition of Sound Quality?

Hey guys It's time for a new box and while I was looking around I came across PWK Designs. Has anyone dealt with this guy yet? Looking at his youtube videos and his official site it looks like he takes everything into account. If anyone has had a box designed by him let me know what you thought about his services and was it worth it?

Im not paying $400+ for a local guy to build me a custom box for my silverado. Looking for a ported box under the rear seat. Not sure if I have the airspace for 2 10's or just a single 12.

So I'm in the Midwestspl local and I'm going to change my class to nationals and was wondering if any body on here is from the same group "Midwestspl" that in the basic 4 class that can tell me how tall my box can be I know it to the window line but my 2005 tahoe has to different window line heights the side window is higher than the back hatch window...more ? To come once that one is answer.

I'm building a ported box at 32hz for my 15 BL, it will be 13 3/4 Deep 37 1/2 Wide 20 1/2 Tall. I have never built a screwless box. So what glue will i need? any tips on how to go about it? I have built about 5 boxes and they came out great so i do have the "skills" Thanks, Justin

Hi All, Here is what ive learned form messing around with my Term-Lab and my Daily tuned box (2.5 cuft with 41 sq of port tuned to 34 hz wave guides and double kerfed port). i have learned that the box is loudest firing towards the drivers side of the trunk completely sideways like this: Im hitting a 146.7 outlaw doing this at 36 hz. Ive also tried flipping the box upside down and the port and sub position flipped and it doesnt matter on the meter which way it goes. now im thinking a 40-42 hz tune with aero ports, possibly 2 6" ones. now i want to hit a 150 with this outlaw, i believe it would be simple if i tuned the box higher and get some more control over the high…

yes many people are effected by proximity to events, but most are in the range of at least 2 assocations

I haven't had much experience with the science behind port tuning/building, but I've been doing a little research and some calculations and have a question concerning port "size". Let's say I have a 1 cu.ft box, and I want to put a aero port in it with a tuning of about 33hz. I used a calculator and I came up with a 2" diameter port with a length of 6.3 inches.. or a 3" port with a length of 15+ inches.. My question is, what's the difference in having the 2" short port as opposed to the 3" long port and achieving the same tuning? To me it would just seem logical to go with the small and short port to save space and material, and just be an overall convenience.. but this i…