SPL & SQ / Fabrication

okay simple enough for the knowledgable ones, IA's 187 12" subs, port up, subs back, going with 4.5 cubes and tunning at 34hz. using 4" aero ports (4"X17") =how many, how long? the one who answers this will receive good fortune for the rest of his days! thanks chop

I Recently Talked to Chad Kyupers Drivers Start Shipping a week from today. While talking to him i mentioned 6cuft@29Hz, he said he had a guy do 4.5 at 30Hz and its output was INSANE with only 800w. he said 6@29 with 1200w should wang hard so im down to 2 enclosure options, both with equal port area (77sqin) only one iwth 2 ports and one with one. originally i though there was going to be no way to get the ports on the same plain as the driver, so i designed a side firing enclosure and the port a straight shot. then i came up with the idea to get the port on the same plain... see image below http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/avatest.bmp the bottom thing…

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz

Sooo...got a bit of a rude awakening today. Found out my e12a is actually presenting close to a 10 ohm load to the PG Tantrum 1200.1 in box - impedance rise is killing me. The sub is a 2 ohm DVC currently wired in series, and it's close to 2.5 times what I was thinking the impedance was. Pardon the extreme n00bish question, but is such a drastic rise common? It just feels a little strange running my sub at a lower impedance than my amp is rated for (if I drop it to 1 ohm), but if it models out well, hey...that's what I'll do.

I lined my box with fiber glass and mat, and it came out very bumpy, tried to smooth it out and did an ok job at removing some. My question is how smooth does it have to be, does it affect the over all sound pressure.

Unfortunately due to some extenuating circumstances this year's event has been POSTPONED!!!!!! The Clayton Chamber of Commerce has postponed this year's Clayton Classic Car Show. Since the show is put on in conjunction with the Classic Car Show, we have to postpone the Clayton Car Stereo Show. We will be in close talks with the Clayton Chamber of Commerce and see when they will decide on a new date for the Classic Car Show, when we get a new date for the show I let everyone know and we will try to have it then.

As the topic says I am looking for any and all tips to improve my SPL. After some REAL quick testing that I'm not to sure was accurate. I was told I was doing a 143.5 Legal @ 32Hz. I believe the 32Hz part, but I'm not to sure about the numbers. So any tips, tricks, or ideas you have. Throw them my way. oh and BTW I know I need more power. I'm working on that detail:

Well I dont know were this falls into but my brother wants to change were his Soundstream BX-10 remote is I took a few pics of his dash and pretty much the interior so you guys can give us some ideas. It is a like an epicenter but not the original not an amp remote.I also want to know if you can take apart the box were the knob is and make it that"custom look"

Ok guys, Who wants to be first and jump in on some sketchs/layouts for me? :-) Ok here we go, I have a Fi SSD 15 on the way with a sundown 1200d But no box to put it in. So here I am, I need some help with a box layout The dimensions I have to work with are 29" wide X 31" deep X 18" Tall. If possible I think a Face up Back port would be the best for my car, But if im wrong please let me know. Thanks in advance ~Tyler

This is a box I am building for a friend. For an 8" Kicker L5, There is very minimal space in his Jeep TJ, so the height is pretty much no give for the size of the sub, even though it is an 8". This is the first box I have ever built before, so I know it may seem a bit rough in some parts, but I am working on it to make it look good for my buddy. If you guys have any comments about it to make it better, please let me know! after all i am only a beginner! Thanks! 0408001333.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306a.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306b.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket

One ten sundown sd2 series ported.or 2 e series tens sealed. Which would have more output wanting to hit low still hope sealed would do that for me as ive only done ported in cars. Any input?

Hows it look? Not Allowed To Use Image Extention Click here to View Enclosure! http://chronicenclosures.com/subbox.bmp System Build: 2x Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12 Inch Woofers Daul 2 Ohm Voice Coils 1x JL Audio 1000/1v2 Slasher Amplifier 1200HC Kinetik Battery Stock Battery 0 Gauge "The Big Three" Capacator 1 Farad Enclosure Specifications: 3/4" MDF Material Height: 25 3/4" Width: 36" Depth: 15" Gross Volume: 6.334 Volume Displacement: Port - 1.396 Cubic Ft Woofers - 0.22 Cubic Ft Bracing - 0.056 Cubic Ft Total = 1.672 Cubic Ft Net Volume: 4.662 Cubic Ft Individual Woofer Volume:Just Under 2.5 Cubic Ft Subwoofers Facing Upwards Port Specifications: Port Area: …

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

Ok so I sealed up the rear deck of my car, I have the MDF ready to be cut and set into place. My plan is to cut a 2" hole in the MDF to run my RCAs and power wire through, not sure how i can seal that up, any ideas? then im going to cut the speaker holes and mount the subs on the other side. that will be roughly 1" clearance from the back of my seat. I was going to try and find some rubber gasket at home depot to put around the MDF to seal it up to my seat opening surround. Does all of this sound like it will work out? Also im running a pair of boston acoustic g2 12s on my aq1200d for this setup

hey, i am familiar with both ported and sealed boxes. but im not sure what is better, i know that ported boxes hit cleaner and i know ported you will have more spl. but i heard that with ported you get cone distoration and the sub hits sloppier. im just wondering what your specs are? thanks

the box specs 48w*40d*20h port is in the center 18.5h*14w*22d what would this tune to and is it to much port for this box.goals daily ground pounder. subs 4 15 db drive plt15wd 2500rms

New to car audio here. I recently purchased a SoundQubed HDS312 and SoundQubed Q1-1200.2 amp and plan on building my own box. It will be wired to 1ohm and installed in a 2006 Trailblazer. My question has to do with port firing direction, this is a work truck constantly filled with tools and I would like the sub to be facing up so it doesn't get damaged, and have the port facing the rear or both facing up. I've created two boxes both 2.49 cubic feet at 33.48hz: Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm wanting to get some feedback/advice on this box I'm working on for my recent purchase from SSA. Any glaring problems in the design? It will fill the area between the back seat and hatch in an '05 Scion xB. Three 10" SSA DCON S4 subs wired to 1.34 ohm Amp: Audiopipe APSM-1300 (1000w @ 1 ohm) - will be replaced eventually, when funds allow Gross volume: 3.95 ft^3 Net volume: 3.3 ft^3 Port Dimensions: 3.75" x 11" x 27.6" Port area: 41.25 in^2 Desired tuning: 32Hz Would it be better to make the box taller and use a square port with more port area, and longer, in the same location?

any inputs and comments for my box design it will be for 2 10" Chaos it is aproximately 3.23cubic feet gross volume, 2.5 net volume will be tuned at aproximately 33hz will be going into a single cab was done on google sketchup the one on the left is with all the pieces seprate, and the right one is the final product thank you

Well, i saw something that made me think of this, so i made it, it is a box design, with 2 ports, that go out of the... front (same side as woorfer) and then come to a port directly above the woofer... its weird. lol any comments? lol

I know the pic is small and I'm not saying I will do this(but hopefull) Should I be concerned about cancellation problems or is this design ok

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever. OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box: (Feel free to steal the design) Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for so…

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…