SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hi, i have been doing so searching and i see that some people use clay as a spacer and i am wondering 2 things. how well they work and the other being how do you do it. cuz i need 2" spacers on the cheap side and all i could think of on how to get the clay to work for me is use something like these http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...03+501959+90025 to give the clearance and then just fill in the space with clay and more then likely us fiberglass resin to make sure it is seal.

Gains will be set low (to start off, i realize hifonics isn't top of the line, but it'll do the job well even if it is overrated).. so any suggestions on a good wiring kit to buy?

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

So after much searching throughout the internet I still cannot figure out how to make a crossover. All I want to do is put a 12db/octave high pass on my 3.5" 2 ways at 500hz and a 12db/octave low pass on my 6.5 midbass at 500. All speakers are 4 ohm. I dont know if I need a capacitor and an inductor for each crossover or just one for each. Can someone please help explain how to do this or hook me up with some site links? Please and thank you in advance.

When you build a box with a swapable port, how to you determine internal box volume, as in, what it needs to be once the port is in? I'm going to build a box for the BTL that's 7.5 cubes and want three different ports, 26hz, 34hz, and one for whatever my peak frequency in the vehicle with be. I'm not sure, but wouldn't the different port sizes also affect tuning by changing box volume? I feel like this is really simple and i'm just punching myself in the face here. What am I missing?

Ok so speaking purely visually, i understand a basic motor and the LMT but XBL^2 i've never seen a good pic of, what exactly is it and how does it differ? what pics i have seen, i can't tell the difference from a normal motor. Now, someone explain in some more depth for me, or point me to a good link, the way the magnetic force helps hurts the voice coil movement. I'm not understanding why a lateral force is necessarily a good thing. Next, why is the cone concave instead of convex? Has anyone ever experimented with flipping the cone over? What affects would this have on the frequency? Obviously i'm procrastinating studying and my mind needs anything else to think abou…

If I drill a whole just big enough for the speaker wire to pass through what should I use to seal up the whole so no air leaks out? Thanks

I am a novice and I have heard it discussed about "tuning" to 30-35 htz. How is this accomplished?

I have 4 12" RF Punch Z's in a sealed box. There are 4 different chambers in the box, one for each sub. (Approx 1 1/2 cuft each) I'm wanting to port this box to make it louder with PVC aero ports. My questions are: 1) Should I put a different port for each chamber/sub? or Should I take out the walls between each chamber and just port the whole box as one? 2) How big of PVC pipe will I need to effectively port the box? Id like the tuning to be as close to 30-35 hz as possible. Doesn't have to be an EXACT tuning 3) Where should I put the ports? Here's a couple pictures to help with what the box design is:

I am trying to decide whether I want to go sealed or ported. My question is with tuning frequencies. Lets say that a subwoofers optimal tuning frequency is at 33hrtz and someone builty a box for 35hrtz, how would that effect the sound. And also what would the effect be if it was the opposite and designed a box at 27hrtz, how would that effect the sound. Sorry if this question has been asking a bunch before but I couldn't really find the answer I was looking for.

This is my first post on here, and need some advice from the BTL gurus I just picked up two BTL 18's, dual 2's, fully loaded, and will be running them off of two modded Memphis Mojo MC-2000d amplifiers (1 on each driver at 1 ohm), approx. 3000 watts each. In my vehicle, which is a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, I don't have a whole lot of useable space to work with and still maintain practicality, so the enclosure is going to be a bit tight for specs. I will run the subs inverted to try to save as much airspace as I can, but I only have a total of 11.2 cubes to work with, before port displacement. This is going to be a daily setup, and I am more than likely going to build it…

I was wondering how I can properly set and adjustable a LOC with a stock radio and aftermarket amps. Equipment: Stock H/U SVEN LOC Zed Minilith Sundown 100.4 The RCA's after the H/U are going into the Mini and split (y adaptors) to the sundown. The LOC has four individual knobs for setting the input signal. Sorry if this is not enough.

I just finished my box for my fi btl and now I'm looking for something to cover it but not sure what yet. I've looked at CF and Carpet together (having the entire box black carpet with the fi bomb sticker as a cutout with CF over top) and thought about bed liner but I've never tired either and I'm not sue what would be the best look and if there are any more ideas out there throw them at me in open to anything.

if i bought 10 of these and made a super big ported box ( i think they are supposed to be IB?) would it sound worthy of the money i spent (slightly more than the daytons)? spl is more imporant, but sq cant just be dismissed. I found a ultra cheap in-wall 8" subwoofer. 22 bucks. thump option 2 I would be using those instead of four dayton 12's Boom option number 1

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0-CU-FT-CUSTOM-PORTED-BOX-fits-KICKER-CVR15-CVX15-/160554332666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561c8b1fa It would be going with a Sundown nightshade. I am very curious to hear what you have to say about this, being that its from ebay. But 4.0 CU. Ft. tuned to 32 hz seem perfect. I know building one will be a little cheaper but it probably wont come out as nice and would save me the headache of building one myself. But if you recommended that I just build one myself then thats what ill do.

this is my plan. im building a box that has 4 nightshade 15s. i designed the box on a 3d program to scale. the box is 19.5 cubes. the port is 7inches wide and 38.5 inches tall. that gives me 269.5^2 inches of port area and i need 12-16^2 inches of port area for each cube of airspace. so ill make the port area requirement. the box is tuned to 30hz. i will also be having all the walls 1.5inches thick. everything will be liguid nailed and screwed together.what you guys think? i cant seem to get the pictures to upload. i dont know how to get it from google sketchup to a image hosting site. any help with this?

In this weeks episode I review how you can create a false wall in order to further complete an install. Using a false wall can allow you to utilize an enclosure that is simple, but yet obtain a finished product that looks very custom and integrated within the vehicle. I would love to know what you think! Thanks for taking the time to watch! (Click the picture for the video) ~Mark

Well, i just did some testing with about 30 songs and frequencies from 27-55hz individually with positioning a ported and sealed box around in the hatch to determine what sounds loudest to the ear. I only faced sealed forward, everything else is for ported. This test though is with port and sub on same side. I have a sub up port back box but no sub to fit it, lol Sealed firing forward, right behind rear seat - Basically everything just drops in output. IT all sounds the same, just quieter so that definitely isn't recommended. Fire rear, box against the back seat- the mid range 50-60hz seems to hit hardest by doing this but not by much more than firing directly forward! …

so ive built a few boxes before an they were simple an nothing special so i use a box calculater that i no longer have( computer crashed)! so im trying to build a box for this 15 btl fl to go in the hatch back of my 1982 mustang! i found a new box tuning calculater (torres) from smd site it has the height 1 an 2 an depth 1 an 2 so i figured hey it will work but it doesnt for me..it messes up an doesnt add height 2 in so i makes it just a square box i wana do 21" tall front 13.50" tall in back 17" deep an 35" wide.. with them specs i want sub up flush mounted an the port would have to go forward towards the top of the box! if that makes since.so THE would make the inside …

Does anyone know any online dealers that build fiberglass boxes anymore for a decent price? I emailed Fisher Audio but they no longer make FG ones. I would do it locally but they charge an arm and a leg for them.

Hey guys, Will be building my first box in the next week or so and I really just want to make it right the first time so i would be really grateful if you could check over my numbers before i go any further. Specs 2003 Ford focus 12" SI Mag re coned with fi softparts. So basically its the same spec as a Fi Q Aim 32 hz @ 2.5cuft (biggest recommended box for this sub) Subwoofer displacement - 0.16 cuft Port Displacement - 0.69cuft (Really didn't know how to work this out! Do you calculate the port as a separate component or just account for the wood that makes the port if so this is wrong) Baffles displacement - 0.10cuft (in my design i have quite a few baffles to brace t…

Would this be a good box for 2 xcon 12s running a crescendo bc 2000d I'm planning on running it at 2 ohms because I'm hoping to run stock alt with an extra batt. in the rear for now. I was hoping to run sub and port forward sealed from the trunk so my max height is 18 and width is 32 and that's real tight. If someone else has done this I would love to see pics for reference. http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/ii511/trpkkd/accordbox.png

Alright well my buddy has a misubishi eclipse with 2 12" alpine type E's in it right now. He ordered two more today. So I dont have any dimensions but I want to make a ported box tuned to 31 hz. And probably 6 cuft. But should I make one big box? Or should I seal off the subs?

What is the most accurate sub box calculator tuning and everything

ive been told that puttin carpet on the inside of a box will make the sub think the box is bigger there for sound better or louder. but i personaly like fiberglassing the inside to gurantee its super sealed and not falling apart ported or selad enclosure which would be the better idea or maybe carpet over fiberglass