SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

im wanting to run a pioneer ts-w304r i want to run the sub to its best potential.the box measurements can be 5 inches deep max at top and 7 inches deep at the top.up to 15inches 45 inches long it will be in a single cab s10 want to be ported if you can help me please thank you

Well thaks to McVay in Oswego we finally have some "local" shows scheduled for the 2005 competition season for IASCA. The first show is on March 27th, with one show a month all the way up to the month of October. I don't know about the rest of you guys but since I was unable to accrue enough points towards Finals last season, I just can't wait to get back into the lanes this season. For a list of the IASCA Events just click IASCA Event Calender

I know it may take some time specially being designed in mm (As I live in Aus) but can someone or as many people as possible confirm roughly these figures??? Also, feel free to use this design and enjoy!!! BOX HEIGHT IS 260mm, 224mm are Internal Dimensions as all pieces join to TOP/BOTTOM ------------ --------- Also I designed this for a 8" Rockford Fosgate P2D28 sub w/ a bit of extra port area for sub upgrades that may have up to 13mm in XMAX such as say a DD sub (P2D28 has 9.5mm)

i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer with 2 fi q18's DRUMMING~! they are powered by a t20001bd rockford. i am losing so much pressure out of the back glass do to flexing. do they make clamps for the back hatch to hold it down? its a daily box in now and will future be a crx style spl box. i currently have a 12 cube crx style box with 120 sq. inch of port. thanks for any and all help! Damon

All my experience in audio comes with sealed enclosures, even so, after having visited this site, I feel like my past work was rather half assed and mindless. This is what I have so far: I am planning on using two soundsplinter rli10s, and I could be perfectly content with keep it sealed, but I want to try my hand at porting and perhaps learn something new. I have been trying to talk to a few people about porting this enclosure, but I am not really getting any good information, and I am also reluctant to trust any information from WinISD. From what I understand, that program can be slightly flawed. My box is 1.08 cubic feet after all displacements are taken into account…

Every one says that the re-calculator is off so can someone here help me design a box for a 12 BTL Here are my max demensions 15h x 28w x 18d......I would like the box as close to 2.5 after all displacements as I can tuned to 32hz (sub disp is .18) Thanks to anyone who can help.

This is my first go at trying to design a ported box so just want to make sure I got the numbers right. This is for a coworker. The sub is a DD 9515. According to their site it should be 3 cu with 48"^2 of port. Here's what I came up with: 24" x 22" x 15" and the port 3 9/16" x 13 1/2". If I follow the "rules" and make it 20" long it'll be 38ish tune. I appreciate any input you can give. 15" height is to keep it under the window line and cannot be modified. Other than that any suggestions welcome!

Hi, A friend of mine who owns an Xcon15 has just built a new box for its baby monster sub. The old one was 3.5 cu ft at 32 Hz, and the new one is 3.7 cu ft at 32 Hz too. Not much more volume, the double baffle upside took quite a bit of what we expected. The new box has a kerf slot port : it's really beautiful, and was easy to do wit the design provided by Dylan. First try : got it !!! I will post pics tomorrow. Just wanted to say that the sound is different now. Don't know how to say it but it gives more low notes. We did not expect so much change!! And we love it!!! The owner had a processor(or active filter, I don't know exactly), he took it off. He turned the bass boo…

Hello to everyone on SSAudio! I've been asked by my freind Aaron to use this section of the forum to help with technical, enginneering and just good all around mobile electronics information. I think in order to make this successful, Dave Edwards and I need to know HOW technical you want this to be. My company is an engineering based consultation and testing facility for manufactures, etc. I've got 30 years of technical knowledge to share so lets get the ball rolling. Thanks

If the port area is 32.5in^2 how long do I need to make it to get 30-31hz??? This is for my 12" DCON.

I'm making a box and the port needs to turn. is it pretty simple like so... thanks...

I was wondering how I can properly set and adjustable a LOC with a stock radio and aftermarket amps. Equipment: Stock H/U SVEN LOC Zed Minilith Sundown 100.4 The RCA's after the H/U are going into the Mini and split (y adaptors) to the sundown. The LOC has four individual knobs for setting the input signal. Sorry if this is not enough.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0-CU-FT-CUSTOM-PORTED-BOX-fits-KICKER-CVR15-CVX15-/160554332666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561c8b1fa It would be going with a Sundown nightshade. I am very curious to hear what you have to say about this, being that its from ebay. But 4.0 CU. Ft. tuned to 32 hz seem perfect. I know building one will be a little cheaper but it probably wont come out as nice and would save me the headache of building one myself. But if you recommended that I just build one myself then thats what ill do.

I just bought a pair of 10" dcons from Stefan on this very forum yesterday. So while they are on their way I'm looking to get a box design for them. Subs up port back. Looking for the most optimal enclosure size using what ever type of port that would work better for me (slot, aero, or pvc port that sticks out of the enclosure itself) with the dimensions I have H x W x D 13" x 28" x 17" tuned to 32hz. Thanks for the help.

first off here is my box: here are the plans i used to build it: 2.26cuft@34hz i have a 12" fi Q BP power off 1200 clean watts and it sounds great in the car but when i pop the trunk while the sub is playing there is this whistling and its really annoying... seems to happen worse on low notes... what is the cause, not enough port area? cuz i am pretty sure there is plenty of port for this sub ive already decided i'm building a new box eventually but this is an annoyance that i would like to avoid with my next build tia!!

Friends Does anybody know any alternative methods in contacting Custom Car Audio Home I am trying to order a box but can't seem to get a reply either by phone or E-mail. I also tried contacting fisher customs and have not gotten a reply from them either. R, Julius

Ok so I am going to be going to sevierville tomorrow and stopping by the place my brother in law works. He said I was more than welcome to use the equipment they have. --read cabinet shop-- Sooo I figure why not go ahead and make a better box for the one avalanche. I'm looking for 3.5-4 cubes, tuned to 21hz. I would like it to be 30"W X 16-18" H X whatever deep. 16" high is better than 18 cause it'd be easier to fit, but i could do 18 if it really helps that much. I guess i will do slot ports so i can actually get a working box quickly. I will probably be using 3/4" MDF. I'm thinking a port on each side with the woofer in the middle. BTW its a 15" sub and the …

Hello, I am building a box for a friend and I had my MDF all ready to cut, measured out panels and everything and he calls and tells me that he want an aeroported box. I have searched and read different things in this section and after figuring out slot is actually a lot more different than aero ported, I just don't get it. So, I have come for some box designing help. Dimensions: Depth: 16 Height: 16 Width: 40 It is for an Fi X 12. Was hoping for 2.0ft^3 at 32hz I really just need to know how many flared aeroports I would need with no port noise. Diameter and Length of the aeroport would be nice. Thanks in advanced, Jay

I've always designed the box with the port on the side, but now I need it in the middle (using 2 subs). I do know that when the port splits off the port width gets halved, but is the whole length of the port mean that each side is the port length? Let's say I have a box that is 6" wide and 30" long. When it splits off each side will have a width of 3", but does each side equal 30" long? Someone also told me that you add half of the width of the port to each side of the port length. So each length would actually be 33" long. I don't know why that would work though. When I design boxes I use torres and there's a box that says "# of common port walls". I put 2 in there, …

I ordered 2 18 zcons Thursday and today I did some measurements and got 48w 25h 32d all inches and that's with my back seat out of my ext cab sierra I listen to mainly rap with a little bit of everything I was thinking around 32 htz for tuning there going to be on a saz 5000 I'm sorry if I forgot to add anything

Does or can anyone help me figure out what kind of space is needed to run 2 12" Z V.2 subs in a 4th order in the trunk.

Is the opening of a slot port supposed to be on the face of the enclosure, same direction as the sub is facing? All the boxes I have seen have them there...is that the requirement, or, just common way to build it?

Alright guys, I've had these Bravox 3 ways for a while now. My wife didn't want to tear into the van until the Atlas's had died and they're on the way out. The front passenger mid has been giving the "Death Rattle" from time to time and it's getting worse, so my wife is breaking down and wanting me to begin getting the design, supplies and such together to be ready to make a quick change and build for the new set. That being said, I have some idea's about how I am going to do it, but I wanted to run it by the great minds here and see if there's a better way to go about it. First of all, here's a picture of the inside of the van to give you an idea of what I have to wor…

looking to buy a saw blade for my circular saw to cut my MDF. i was going to have lowes cut it, but i can't quit worrying that they will mess it up so im going to do it myself. i have been told to get at least a 40 tooth carbide tip blade....i am only going to use this thing once so i dont want to put a lot of money into it. i was thinking getting a higher tooth count blade, just not carbide tipped. i was thinking like a 120/150 tooth blade....would that work well? is the carbide tipped that big of a deal?