SPL & SQ / Fabrication

HEY JUST WONDERING WAT KIND OF NUMBERS I WILL BE LOOKING AT WITH 4 15' DB DRIVE IN A WALL POWERED BY A MASSIVE AMP IN A 95 INTEGRA

Last 4 years and last 7 boxes I have all used slot ports. I have never even looked into aeros before so I got a few questions and would like some support on what others have told me about them. As of right now I am using the torez calculator to try to help me with this. The box Im designing is for a 21 warden, I would like to have 115+ sq in of port for it tuned to low 30s. I have been told that flared ports somehow equal a bigger straight port, example I was told that a 6in flare would equal a 9in straight port. Im guessing the torez calculator goes by straight ports that are not flared. I am getting confused with all the diff info I have been given and would like any ki…

Ok I had to do an l-port and It is 6"H so I marked all the way around the L at 3" in the middle and from front around I have got 22" but all the box calculated says phical port it 16" so is my port 22" or 16"?

Hey, im about to build a box for my buddy and i wanna get around 4 cuft. per sub after all displacements. Again they're two cvr 15's. I was thinkin somewhere around 14 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot of volume and im planning on tuning the box around 35-38 hz. so (14 x 4) + (14 x 4) = 112 inches of port area I've build a ported box for an Fi Q15 and i had it tuned to 33hz but it sounded like it was tuned very low once it was inside of the truck. And i have read that when the box is intstalled in a vehicle the tuning frequency of the box drops about 5-7hz because of the resonant frequency of the vehcile? So im trying to account for this with this box i'm b…

the vb part is the part that needs clearing up.... Vb= net internal volume of the box, correct? if that is the case, how is it written into the formula as square inches? bigger_george is building an enclosure for his rl-p 15's and needs to be able to calculate port length...however, he needs to plug in the Vb and he's trying to use square inches... here's the thread <-----click this link... so, which is right? i say Vb is supposed to be in cubic not square inches correct? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i just had my wood cut from lowes (they did a bad job cutting) and i was wonder what size screws should i use to put the together? i dont have a router so what else could i use to cut the hole out for my sub? i have some titebond wood glue and some heavy duty liquid nails here.

the box specs 48w*40d*20h port is in the center 18.5h*14w*22d what would this tune to and is it to much port for this box.goals daily ground pounder. subs 4 15 db drive plt15wd 2500rms

A buddy of mine wants me to build him a subwoofer box for two 12's in his Ford Ranger Edge. Now he is taking out all of his rear seats which gives me a good chunk of space to work with. I know how to build and design an enclosure, all i really need to know is subwoofer/port orientation. Havent made an enclosure for a truck like this and I dont have the time to build multiple enclosures and test them all out so I was hoping this could save me some time. -Mike

Just checking pricing on various different places. What places do you guys use for your resin/matte/cloth?

Ok, I will be googling how to do fiberglass work soon enough....but i just wanted a general concensus of about how tough it can be....I want to build a L type sealed enclosure going from the floor in the back seat of a friends truck and into the center portion of his seat. I would like to do it in fiberglass and just wanted a general idea of about how much work i am in for. Is it okay to have like 90% of the enclosure to be mdf? I just need the top portion to be fiberglass so i can angle the subs to where i want them to point. Also, it is okay for 2 subs to be in a common chamber isnt it? I thought it was, just wanna make sure. Thank You

which way should i do my box design for a btl 18'' with two 6 in aero ports. sub up, aero back?

I was just wondering how much space between the end of the driver to the wall of the enclosure is sufficient? Meaning what wont hurt the driver or sq/ spl. I'm thinking of a 15" havoc ported. The xmax spec is 30 mm if that matters. Thanks in advance and merry Christmas to all.

Yes... I have moved from Corpus Christi and have brought back USACI to the DFW area. I look foward to getting back in the groove with everyone here. You can check out www.myspace.com/usaciofnorthtexas If you need to know who I am and what I have done, go to www.myspace.com/bigmel22 Thats my life story and I hope to lower the boom in the DFW area.

So this weekend I'm going to purchase another battery and start working on a battery rack\holder for the rear cargo area of my tahoe. I'll be running one battery there, but eventually I'll add more...A couple questions.. 1. Should I use wood to construct it? I heard MDF flexes over time? Would I be better off getting a friend who can weld to come up with something with metal? 2. It should probably be secured to something, right? I'm not sure if I want to start drilling a bunch of holes in the truck...Any ideas? 3. What are the max dimensions of a group 31 battery? 4. Anyone have any pictures of their battery setup and how it's secured? Thanks.

i switched to the Pap Moabs 2-15" and switched to a set of batterys 8v & 6v tied in sieres do a 14.97v and im not sure if it was the batterys or the subs that made the differance so im going to put the 2-15" SoundStream back in the boxx and see if that is the cause of the 2db drop or the batterys ? i need a bigg@ss battery charger...too cook the batterys to 20v and try agine !!! any input is welcome the guy grinning to the left in the background is my friend BEN we put his 2-15" Mtx 9500 subs in my old boxx & he beat be with my own boxx by 1.6db / 150.6db the boxx was built for street beat @ 35Hz his peek was 46Hz

I want to go huge, so im goin to. I would like to get: Sub-Fi BTL 15" or 2 12" Amp-Sundown Audio SAZ1500D or Soundstream DTR1.3400 Alt-Iraggi Battery-Xs power (size unknown) or kinetic I dont know what to do about electrical, i know am going to do the big 3, i also know i need a new alt prob. Please help me out here, i want it to be cheap but i want good quality stuff to, i also want to do really well, ive been to 3 SPL comps and there sick, i loved seeing wat people did with their cars and what not. If you think there is a better sub or amp, let me know for a speakers i wont pay more than 500 for one and 750 for 2, for a amp i will not pay over 1000. If you can help it…

I have 1 PSI P1 15" sub in a 4.5 cubic foot ported enclosure. I have a 6" diameter aero port that is 10.5" long. My box is a 6 sided wedge design and we are trying to figure out where to place the port. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent Hatchback and my box is in the very back. Here are my 2 options. Option 1: Port on top of box next to the sub. Option 2: Port in front of the box on the angle. If the port is placed in front it will be a few inches from the back of the seat with the seat up. If it's placed on top it will always be in open space. I would rather it in the front so i can blow more air towards the passengers but i dont want the seat to interfere with the sound qual…

What I planned on doing is glueing a layer of plexiglass over the top of painted mdf. I want it to dry clear so there will be no glue marks. Is there anything out there that can do this? I have looked and all I could find was plexi to plexi glue. Any finds would be greatly appreciated.

i built my box for 2 18" but one got busted in shiping i have a big comp coming up and will it be saft to run 1 in 11cuft on about 4k just to get my points up

i have my cart full and about ready to order in the next few days so what I need to know since ssa store does not carry fuses what website do all of you order your fiuses from

What is best used to paint the port latex? Or oil based mine is a wall with top port so it's the first thing you see just wanna make it pretty and any color sugestions?

this is my first time tooling around with winisd. my fi sp4 should be here any day and i'd like to make sure my box design is okay or if i should tweak it. ive seen port velocity used frequently around here and i was wondering how i can determine port velocity. is it for aeroports only or can port velocity be determined in a L slot port? can someone explain how to find out the port velocity for a L port. and before people start saying, yes i did search around a while on the forum and google and couldnt come up with the answer. thanks!

What wood glue iis best to use and caulking should it be hard or more elastic like for sealing?

I have a FI SSD 15. (bp power, flat coil) I currently have it in a 18x18x38 box tuned to 34-36hz somewhere in there. aprox 4 cubes. Im thinking of building a new box, what should i tune it to, and how many cubes? i find my box has a slight bit of port noise because there are no 45s and it doesnt go as quite low as i want it to. Iv heard other ssd 15's hit harder than mine, so im trying to squeeze every thing i can out of the sub. also with the box the way it is now, what should my Amp be set at? Lowpass and subsonic? If it matters: its going in a crew cab GMC, powered by a AQ1200. thanks, in advance all help is appreciated

I'm starting a box for my new 12 this weekend. Using a 6" aero for this one. Most of my boxes in the past have been sealed or slot port. Was shooting for 1.75cf3 after displacements and a tune in the low 30's. I'm limited in depth (~14") but had plenty of width (~56"). I came up with this design. It's long and shallow, similar to a truck box I built a long time ago albeit smaller. Concerns: The length to height/depth ratio. Would it matter? The distance between the sub and port inlet. It is currently ~4" from port to the closest edge of the sub tuned at 30hz. I can move it in more, each 2" decrease in length equates to about 1hz. Just concerned about unloading. Maybe it w…