SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hi i got 2 sa-8 subs and im gona make 1.6 Cubic Feet = 45.3Liters enclosure but i dont know about port can you help to get calculations right with square port

it was hot & Hummid --- w/ 2 dead batterys got a 148.1db all i needed was 2 points to go to finals so i am in there

they had it locked on to show just the highest db hit, so idk what i made on tones. my sweet spot is somewhere between 40-45hz but i hit 135.7 with my single 12" FI Q w/ BP Option, powered by SAE 1000D my first box, tuned to 31hz playing the opening of Tortilla Chips by T.Bizzy. mic on driver side dash, passenger door half down. in a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. sub and port facing back hatch nothing fancy in here. i know when i bought it i was curious of some numbers, i know it's not made for SPL but i was somewhat impressed with what it did.

So the time has come to finally make my box as work has slowed down and my carpenter (father) has some time to help me get a enclosure made for my pair of RE SX 15's. My major dilemma here is that the opening for the trunk limits the size of the box to be rather small compared to the trunk size unless i do one of two things... Option 1, Build the box in 2 halves then screw together inside the vehicle. Other then volume taken up for the small 2 inch border around both halfs of the box i plan to connect them with, what other problems could the pose for the sound of the box? I'm able to get like 12 cubes into this trunk if i am able two to part this box... Option 2, Build th…

the vb part is the part that needs clearing up.... Vb= net internal volume of the box, correct? if that is the case, how is it written into the formula as square inches? bigger_george is building an enclosure for his rl-p 15's and needs to be able to calculate port length...however, he needs to plug in the Vb and he's trying to use square inches... here's the thread <-----click this link... so, which is right? i say Vb is supposed to be in cubic not square inches correct? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

What I planned on doing is glueing a layer of plexiglass over the top of painted mdf. I want it to dry clear so there will be no glue marks. Is there anything out there that can do this? I have looked and all I could find was plexi to plexi glue. Any finds would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys I am in meca and I am hitting a 144.9 on music with the car off because I am in AS2. I was told at the lastest show the Vinny if I were to make a so called fart box box size of 3.5 cubic feet with like two 6 in aero ports and tuning at like 50 hertz my current setup is 5 cubic ft after displacment and tuned at 40 htz I beleive. What I am wanting to know will this so called fart box get me any louder and see the bad thing is we don't have anyone with a termlab around me to test it. My set is a up memphis mojo 15d2 and I have a sundown 1200.1 with four guage and soon to be hopefully two runs of 0guage. Any help with this guys would mean alot to me and my dad. Also…

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the i…

A buddy of mine wants me to build him a subwoofer box for two 12's in his Ford Ranger Edge. Now he is taking out all of his rear seats which gives me a good chunk of space to work with. I know how to build and design an enclosure, all i really need to know is subwoofer/port orientation. Havent made an enclosure for a truck like this and I dont have the time to build multiple enclosures and test them all out so I was hoping this could save me some time. -Mike

OK tell me if this looks correct. TD=time delay A=distance in feet from ear 1132ft/sec=speed of sound 1000=ms TD=(A/1132)*1000 Left=2.2ft 1.94ms=(2.2/1132)1000 Right=4.6ft 4.06ms=(4.6/1132)1000 4.06-1.94=2.12 TD Does this look correct? I found this formula on ECA, I am having problems finding other formulas on the topic.

I want to go huge, so im goin to. I would like to get: Sub-Fi BTL 15" or 2 12" Amp-Sundown Audio SAZ1500D or Soundstream DTR1.3400 Alt-Iraggi Battery-Xs power (size unknown) or kinetic I dont know what to do about electrical, i know am going to do the big 3, i also know i need a new alt prob. Please help me out here, i want it to be cheap but i want good quality stuff to, i also want to do really well, ive been to 3 SPL comps and there sick, i loved seeing wat people did with their cars and what not. If you think there is a better sub or amp, let me know for a speakers i wont pay more than 500 for one and 750 for 2, for a amp i will not pay over 1000. If you can help it…

ok so i woke up today with spl on the mind, i called my local stereo shop that i once worked at, i requested a termlab run, the man told me it had not been used in 4 years, and didnt know how to use it even if it worked, he was worried about the mic, he said that maybe it had to be adjusted, or tuned, i dont know anything about that, but it said it could take weeks, i wanna see where im at on the scale, im also intrested to know where i would be at in SPL class, i have a car with a trunk and thats where the subs are at!.. no none walled, saz 3000d 3 yellow tops and 2 15's and my system sounds better with the windows down... is that outlaw? i dont know much about …

just wondering what you guys felt about attaching things like felt or sound foam, (seen a few designs on DIY like this) for SQ purposes, not SPL ofcourse, but for less vibraton and harmonics, etc...

Alright. Here is what I have to work with. The box will be for a 12" ICON. I want it ported to play low and deep. As you can see from the picture, the only dimensions I have play on are X and Y. I know nothing about round ports so help me out here. The ports coming out the top will be placed directly beneath my open 6x8 reardeck holes.

Ok, I will be googling how to do fiberglass work soon enough....but i just wanted a general concensus of about how tough it can be....I want to build a L type sealed enclosure going from the floor in the back seat of a friends truck and into the center portion of his seat. I would like to do it in fiberglass and just wanted a general idea of about how much work i am in for. Is it okay to have like 90% of the enclosure to be mdf? I just need the top portion to be fiberglass so i can angle the subs to where i want them to point. Also, it is okay for 2 subs to be in a common chamber isnt it? I thought it was, just wanna make sure. Thank You

I have 1 PSI P1 15" sub in a 4.5 cubic foot ported enclosure. I have a 6" diameter aero port that is 10.5" long. My box is a 6 sided wedge design and we are trying to figure out where to place the port. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent Hatchback and my box is in the very back. Here are my 2 options. Option 1: Port on top of box next to the sub. Option 2: Port in front of the box on the angle. If the port is placed in front it will be a few inches from the back of the seat with the seat up. If it's placed on top it will always be in open space. I would rather it in the front so i can blow more air towards the passengers but i dont want the seat to interfere with the sound qual…

I would like to make a vented box similar to this with the top ledge on it. The pic attached is of my current box. The front of the box is to the right. I'd like to make a ported box in the same shape with two ports each pointing out of the top directly through my open 6x8 speaker holes in the deck.

Hard to explain. Currently i have the standard single fifteen ported to the back, sub and port rear facing. I have a 03 maxima, and would be interested in sealing this to the interior of the car and firing the sub forward, with the port firing up through the rear deck into the rear window. I did something similar in my last max but still had the sub firing up. I sat i a car with two orion hccas sealed to the rear seat and ported finging up through rear deck, and NEED THAT. Anyone up to the task?

hey i am tryin to get a mirror like finish with paint how can i do that ? what kinda paint do i need ? any suggestions im starting with mdf

Alright.. im kicking around the idea in my head to purchase a crescendo 3kwp to use with my 18" BTL (d2) .. when i had my box built for me he wanted to know what size amp i was going to use.. i told him the sundown 1500 (which is hooked up right now) ..he made the box on the larger side, i dont know exactly what the cu ft is.. thing i dont know is, should I do a new box up if i decide to throw a 3kw on it? Does my box size play a big role on the amount of power i feed my sub? Whipping up a new box will be a pain in the ass lol.. but if i go dump the money into a new amp then re building isnt gonna kill me. Im pretty sure I can answer this already.. i have a feeling the s…

I have never built a box for a sub before, and now I am going to be building one for a 8" Kicker L7. This is going to be put into a Jeep TJ, so it does NOT have much trunk space at all. I am not too worried about the size of the box, because I can dimension it to the size of the trunk myself. What I am worried about and have no clue is how to make the port inside the box. I need to know how much space I need in the port to get the most air. Although it is an 8", I want it to perform the best it can through the box. I am looking on Kicker's website and these are the dimensions it says: Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-3/4, 12.1 Mounting Cutout, Square (IN.,CM) 7-1/4, 18.4 Min Re…

the box specs 48w*40d*20h port is in the center 18.5h*14w*22d what would this tune to and is it to much port for this box.goals daily ground pounder. subs 4 15 db drive plt15wd 2500rms

hello hello. ive just built box for (2) Nightshade 15's, its tuned at 33 hz and really gets down.. im trying to brace my box and dont wanna take a chance of screwing up my tuning and overall eclosure. my box measures 49x24x20. with a port opening of 18.5hx8.5t. i guess im seeking advice on placement and what exatly would be the best to use. my face is doubled and my overall box is 1.25 thick.

I was wondering what the consequences of running 16v in a daily driver car would be. I know the car is designed for 12v, so it probably wouldn't like it. I was just wondering if it would cause damage to the car's electrical components. <--I like that smilie

I'm somewhat new to using WINISD and I was wondering why there is no SPL increase when a larger area port is used. Although I understand that if the enclosures are tuned to the same frequency their relative resistance is the same but it just seems like a larger port would yeild more spl (in the same fashion horns get really loud). Can anyone clear this up for me. I'm not asking about beligerently small port areas but lets say the diff between a 20sq. inch port and a 50. Same sub, box, tuning etc. Your answer doesn't need to include stuff I have already read in the thread about vortexes and air resistance. (but then again perhaps I missed something) Thanks, b