SPL & SQ / Fabrication

this is my first time tooling around with winisd. my fi sp4 should be here any day and i'd like to make sure my box design is okay or if i should tweak it. ive seen port velocity used frequently around here and i was wondering how i can determine port velocity. is it for aeroports only or can port velocity be determined in a L slot port? can someone explain how to find out the port velocity for a L port. and before people start saying, yes i did search around a while on the forum and google and couldnt come up with the answer. thanks!

Alright.. im kicking around the idea in my head to purchase a crescendo 3kwp to use with my 18" BTL (d2) .. when i had my box built for me he wanted to know what size amp i was going to use.. i told him the sundown 1500 (which is hooked up right now) ..he made the box on the larger side, i dont know exactly what the cu ft is.. thing i dont know is, should I do a new box up if i decide to throw a 3kw on it? Does my box size play a big role on the amount of power i feed my sub? Whipping up a new box will be a pain in the ass lol.. but if i go dump the money into a new amp then re building isnt gonna kill me. Im pretty sure I can answer this already.. i have a feeling the s…

Hey guys i would fist off like to say thank you for the big 3 help. i have all the parts but the wire and am getting ready to start it, The subs i will be getting will be two 10 inch FI SSDs with cooling, and amp i am not sure yet but might go with a new crescendo amp SSA now sells. also getting a second battery down the road. Well the question is do i port the box or not? I have the space to do it and i was going to do the port out of the top of the question is what do i do inside the box here is what its going to look like and it will be the same on the other side too. any help will be great

I just need the basic rundown, what kind of materials, (do I just go to Homedepot and ask for resin??) how to apply it?? thanks!

right now the wife drives a 01 accord coupe with a single RE REX12D4 off around 200 watts from a RF 300.1 in a 1.5ft^3 box tuned to 35Hz front firing right behind the back seat. would it hit the lows alot better or have more output if I were to replace it with a SRX15D4 in an infinite baffle setup off the same amp? I know Id probably end up lowering the gain seeing as that SRX might not even handle 200 watts in an IB setup. and another idea, what about just using the REX12 in an IB setup since its already in my possession?

As I begin my adventure in the SQ lanes, I have been doing a lot of research and studying. My general synopsis is, for SPL, in a vehicle, we want the most reflective material possible, such a concrete, or marble, so that there is no loss in energy. Obviously this is not practical, but in this example, it will work. Ok, and for SQ, we want the total opposite, we want complete absorption so that none of the higher frequencies reflect, which can cause interference, overlap, and many other issues. From what I've seen, things such as egg carts, foam, or MLV would be the fix. So what I am asking, what would be the best and most particle material to use in the vehicle for sou…

Internal dimensions: 15" d 34" w 10" h Port: 10" h 3" w 30" l Sub displacement .1 cuft Subs up, port sideways 2.1cuft after sub and port displacement Leaving .1 for 45s, so 2 cubes net Tuning guesstimate: 33-34 Hz Side note: I would like to figure out how to calculate neccesary port area by the parameters of the sub, not by the 12-16 square inches per cuft rule, might use areos if someone has a suggestion.

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the i…

i built my box for 2 18" but one got busted in shiping i have a big comp coming up and will it be saft to run 1 in 11cuft on about 4k just to get my points up

So tonight at work I was discussing my upcoming sub build with a few guys. One of the master debaters argured that stuffing a sealed box with poly-fil was recommended and the other said it was a joke. Yes? No? Why? Thanks.

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

SO I am finally looking to replace my factory starting battery and I am looking at a couple different options. THe Powermaster 2400 or 2700 Kinetik HC2000 Tsunami/Yellowtop (not really looking at this option just put it here) NSB 90 Stinger 1000 (their newer line) Just looking for suggestions. My budget for battery would like to be less than 200 if used or 250 or less new.

I have been trying to decide whether or not to go smaller with my box build. All of my buddies that are a little old school when it comes to spl say big boxes are the way to go... But when talking to people I compete with such as TJ in his Yugo doing 52's he says go smaller. My current box is 3.68 cubic feet after driver displacement, but not port displacement. 69 sq inches of port tuned to 42 hz. The woofers are two TC sounds OEM 10". I am thinking of shrinking down to a triple front baffled, double walled 2.4 cubic feet gross, and using 2 4" aero-ports and slightly raising my tuning as the change in box orientation changed my resonant, and building the wall (in the trun…

What would be the best idea for tuning a box to a sundown audio x15?

Horns and i want to know of were to start... maybe links to some sites and what not.. anything is helpful thanks everyone

going in my 86 towncar. trying to use only the lower part of the trunk for box which measures 44"L 28"W........... as for depth i can go w/ 17" (would be flush w/ upper back part of my trunk, where the spare would go), or i can go up to 20"D. subs up and vent/port up. can be either single chamber 1 port (whatever side) or seperate chambered t ported. give me some ideas w/ design and tuning. thank you.

if u have a regular internal port that needs to be say for example 20" long to get a 30hz fq.....would it still need the same 20" length if it was external to get the same 30Hz tuning? I know internal volume would be more considering less displacement

What kind of Box you sugest for 2x Pioneer 307D2 just for SPL Street B class. Dimensions, Port, and other things. Thank`s

i switched to the Pap Moabs 2-15" and switched to a set of batterys 8v & 6v tied in sieres do a 14.97v and im not sure if it was the batterys or the subs that made the differance so im going to put the 2-15" SoundStream back in the boxx and see if that is the cause of the 2db drop or the batterys ? i need a bigg@ss battery charger...too cook the batterys to 20v and try agine !!! any input is welcome the guy grinning to the left in the background is my friend BEN we put his 2-15" Mtx 9500 subs in my old boxx & he beat be with my own boxx by 1.6db / 150.6db the boxx was built for street beat @ 35Hz his peek was 46Hz

Is tuning a ported box to 35 hz for daily use normal.

So i broke the latch on both of my back windows and plan on sealing them up. not the rear the third row windows. i bought some 3m window weld. Hoping that will hold it. since its 28$ a tube. Link any suggestions?

I KNOW THIS DOESNT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS FORUM BUT PLEASE HERE ME OUT AND ANSWER THIS!!! I'm holding off on the 4 BTL's just for now until I get my money right but for now I want to know if this is a good setup? I plan on buying 5 of these (To Save Space) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3835_Kicker+05C84.html This amp for subs http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_H...+TXi+1008D.html The box is going to be custom made (To fit the trunk) (Ported) maybe tuned to 27 Hz.,is 27 Hz. loud or should I tune lower? And its going in a 2004 Chevy Aveo. Im going to parallel wire the 4 ohm subs to 2 ohms. For a educated guess do you think I'll be hitting @ leats 140db? I…

So i have decided to build a custom box for my 2 10in type-s alpine subs. I found an equation on JL audio's website to tune a box and have been playing with numbers for about an hour now. Everything looks good to me i just want to have someone double-check to make sure im not screwing things up. The outside dimensions of the box are 11.5X31.5X20.5in. Using 3/4in mdf that would leave me with 5700 cub inches inside to work with. there will be a single vent, 10in tall and 1in wide, going in 5.5 inches. after subtracting the volume of the 2 boards used to create the vent and the 2 subs( 86.4cu in each), ill be left with roughly 5444cu in of internal volume. with the equatio…

I have 4 15's I need to fit in my Altima! Kinda a wierd lineup but I got screamin deals so oh well! I need some advice on how to run everything! I have 2 Phoenix Golds XS2500's and a PPI PC2150. Heres my subs 2 15 inch JL Audio W-6's and 1 15-inchPBX PowerBass XSDv.2 and 1 Power Acoustik 15-inch FUBAR 15W(1000w RMS ones) This is how I was gonna set it up but need help! I was gonna run an XS2500 bridged to 2Ohm to the PBX and FUBAR!(1 to each bridged) than run the PPI to the 2 JL's.... What do you think? I have a cap too a phoenix Gold XSC1o at 1.0 farad but I know I'll have to either get another alternator put in or a Optima Battery! Which should I do? I havent hooked it …

Hope this image works. Its a very rough sketch of what I'm planning. It's roughly 2.5 cu. ft after port and before sub volume is removed. Subs firing down, port forward. This is roughly the outside dimensions I have to work with and am open to other sub/port configurations if they make sense. Subs will likely be SA-10s or maybe Gcon 10s. Torres calculator showed 32 hz tuning frequency, but I'm confused why it asks for a port diameter and port dimensions for a slot port?? Any opinions?