SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok I had to do an l-port and It is 6"H so I marked all the way around the L at 3" in the middle and from front around I have got 22" but all the box calculated says phical port it 16" so is my port 22" or 16"?

I was wondering what the consequences of running 16v in a daily driver car would be. I know the car is designed for 12v, so it probably wouldn't like it. I was just wondering if it would cause damage to the car's electrical components. <--I like that smilie

I'm going to build a box just want to know were to buy mdf

How does this look for a box plan. I am looking at going ahead and buying a 21in DP since I have plenty of airspace to work with. I also wanted as much cone area as possible that would be ok powered by my Saz-1500v.2. This would replace the rear seats in my 07 F250 and would be at window line. Goal is to hammer the lows, get loud as piss and sound good doing it. Will this work or should I change anything. Sub / Port will be facing forward. Around 10cu tuned at 30hz I got no responses in the IA section so it may be better suited here.

I've got some complicated problems. Ok I'll just start with the maximum enclosure Size/Subwoofer Recommendations and we'll go from there. Anything marked with a * is a question/possible problem, please check these spots out. Woofer Recommends This: 2-2.5 Cubic Ft Per Woofer 50" Squared Port Area - 79" Squared Port Area Depending on Box Size. I would like to tune to 33 Hz I think that will sound good?* Enclosure Maximum size and WHY: 36" Exterior Width 30" Exterior Height 14" Exterior Depth Woofer Direction: Subwoofers mounted on top. Port Direction:* There is a door on one end of the enclosure and a seat on the other other end of the enclosure, there is a seat behind the …

Alright.. So I thought the first time Id be going to be metered was gonna be in July at my first dbdrag competition.. BUT, my local car audio shop is having a grand re-opening with spl meter readings.. Prizes are being given but its more for fun, I really need to get going and run this 0 gauge and install my 2nd battery, iv only got 4 days! Anyways, just wondering if there are 'general' rules to get the best number out of your car. Im running a trunk car, already know my cars peak which helps. Iv heard things like keeping your seats all the way forward helps.. ect. Im sure its different for every car, but I want to show my best at my first time on the meter.

is there a meter that costs like $150 instead of just stepping up to this. i dont need it to be that accurate i just want a round about number ... need something that can measure around 155 db (just to be safe lol)

I have a recording studio and have folded horn pa subs and is the loudest and cleanest of all the pa designs. I was wondering if anyone has made a folded horn sub for a car (I've never seen one but maybe I'm ignorant) and the pros and cons. Thanks

If I were using the RE enclosure calculator, do I need to take into account the speakers displacement for the tuning? Should I tune about 1-2 hz below my desired tune hz? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know what a Kicker L7 would like the box tuned to? Thanks!

Is there any audible difference between using a enclosure that's using a (sub forward, port forward) and a (sub up, port forward) enclosure. I'm thinking of several options for my first system

OK tell me if this looks correct. TD=time delay A=distance in feet from ear 1132ft/sec=speed of sound 1000=ms TD=(A/1132)*1000 Left=2.2ft 1.94ms=(2.2/1132)1000 Right=4.6ft 4.06ms=(4.6/1132)1000 4.06-1.94=2.12 TD Does this look correct? I found this formula on ECA, I am having problems finding other formulas on the topic.

I recently took my two 12's and put them in a prefab box built to hold two subs. Its a camaro box so it's wierd. I put them in that box because I had two single boxes for the subs and one was leaking real bad. Anyway, MY question is, how come they hit harder in the two single boxes than they do in the dual box? I think it might be because the box is too big. So is there anyway I can fix that? I seen a box another person had and he had it stuffed somewhat with newspaper? Would that help the subs hit harder in the dual box? Thanks ~MadroX

I have a Tapco J2500 pro amp in my HT (playing an IDMAX 12) and I'm currently running each channel to each voice coil (so that should be about 750wrms to each coil) the signal is mono. The wires I'm using right now are 25ft long and 14 ga. Is this too small of gauge for this power and length My run only needs to be about 15 ft long, Should I 1. Keep the current set up and not worry 2. Cut the 14 gauges to the smallest length possible given the position of my amp and sub 3. Buy larger cable and still run separate wires to each coil 4. Bridge the amp and run the 4ohm coils in series and use make speaker wire so to speak out of 8ga power cable 5. something I haven't thought…

http://www.youtube.com/user/IHUNTEI2?feature=mhee#p/u/1/MOBX7dNh6wA how does this look for a 6th order design?

just wondering what you guys felt about attaching things like felt or sound foam, (seen a few designs on DIY like this) for SQ purposes, not SPL ofcourse, but for less vibraton and harmonics, etc...

I have designed a box for a friend of mine. He also has an 86 F150. He heard my system and wants to use my type of subs. The pioneer TS-SW3041D. I have designed a box for him and just wondering if it will be optimum for the speakers. Heres a quick drawing i did in paint: Can someone here that has a proper box building program plug the specs in and tell me if this box would be good to use, or that i should start back over. Any and all help with be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance, Scott

I have always been a sealed box guy,so I have NO idea how to tune a box. That being said,how much port do I need in a 1.25ft box with DCON 10????? Will be for daily use playing mostly rock/metal. I was thinking 40-45hz maybe? Please correct me if I'm thinking wrong.

hey i am tryin to get a mirror like finish with paint how can i do that ? what kinda paint do i need ? any suggestions im starting with mdf

If I have a box that is 36" wide by 22" deep by 24" tall how big would I want my port for tuning it to 32hz? Its for an 18" n2

ok so i woke up today with spl on the mind, i called my local stereo shop that i once worked at, i requested a termlab run, the man told me it had not been used in 4 years, and didnt know how to use it even if it worked, he was worried about the mic, he said that maybe it had to be adjusted, or tuned, i dont know anything about that, but it said it could take weeks, i wanna see where im at on the scale, im also intrested to know where i would be at in SPL class, i have a car with a trunk and thats where the subs are at!.. no none walled, saz 3000d 3 yellow tops and 2 15's and my system sounds better with the windows down... is that outlaw? i dont know much about …

i've decided to give building a box myself a whirl but... i realized i really have no idea what i'm doing maybe someone can help me out with the plans. i'm going to be using 3/4 mdf measurements. width1 = 15 width2 = 10 length = 37 height = 16 sub displacement = .48ft^3 port = 3.5in^2 tuning = 30 hz help me for an orion h2 15.2 www.orioncaraudio.com

Hard to explain. Currently i have the standard single fifteen ported to the back, sub and port rear facing. I have a 03 maxima, and would be interested in sealing this to the interior of the car and firing the sub forward, with the port firing up through the rear deck into the rear window. I did something similar in my last max but still had the sub firing up. I sat i a car with two orion hccas sealed to the rear seat and ported finging up through rear deck, and NEED THAT. Anyone up to the task?

I'm looking into building a new box and was wondering if there were any suggestions on the port's location. Its an extended cab truck and the subs and port will be upfiring with subs inverted. When competing it will most likely be USACI outlaw scoring with drivers door open. Would it be better to put the port on the passenger side, driver side, or center of the box?

Wassup guys, I just got in my possession 2 18 inch Aq hdc3's bnib. I will be walling my truck and my deminsions I came up with are 51'' width 38'' height 24'' deep. With 1.5in thick walls, I get 20.4 cubes. I gave my self alittle wiggle room for the height and width. I will be tuning to 36 hz with a 9x38 port that is 20.5 in long. It will be braced and before bracing will come out to about 8.2-8.4 per sub, that is after port displacement. If anyone could run those specs I would greatly appreciate it. This will be going into a 2000 gmc Sierra ext cab. They will be powered by 2 crescendo bc2000ds at 4ohm strapped daily then 1 ohm strapped for comps I'm looking fo…

...that is all. -Nick