SPL & SQ / Fabrication

When drilling into the mdf boards, it seems to split every time when i am screwing in i think there deck screws... Can anyone help me out and tell me what kind of screws to get for this project! Thanks, Curt

So i built a 4.6cf box, tuned to 32 hz for a DCON 15. This is a big box. (at least for me) So I braced it very well. Is there anything else that should be done? Should anything be put inside the box? Like Dynomat, acustastuff? etc... Thanks, Duane

okay, well I got some money for my birthday, and was thinking of picking up some mdf to build a ported enclosure for the SUV. Single 15" sub off of 600 watts. mfg reccomended optimal enclosure is 4 cubic ft. tuned to 34 Hz. My max dimensions available are 38.5" W x 24" D x 18" H Here's what I was thinking: 38.5" wide by 18" high by 18" deep (outside measures, using .75" mdf) Sub up, port back. Port 16.5" high by 4" wide by 28" long (acoustical, physical 23.25" since it will have a bend) gives a gross volume of 5.82 cubic ft, net of 4.24 cubic ft after subwoofer and port displacement, tuning of 33.8 Hz will be adding some bracing but not enough to bring tuning …

Hey guys, I have been into car audio for about 5 years now and I believe I am fully ready to to do what I would consider a high end setup. I currently have a 2002 Hyundai XG350L with my 2 mtx 4500's, alpine amp, and rockford fosgate p1 components and 2 ways in the rear deck, with a P300.2 powering them. I am getting ready to move into my parents new house within the next month and will have a full size garage to work in. This will give me the place to let my mind expand and come up with ideas. I have been looking around at some new subs, I Have a couple of ideas in mind but am open to any suggestions as I havn't heard any system bigger then 2 cvx's on a JL 1000. I a…

Who will be there? Who is competing? What Orgs? I'll be in Street B, and street classes...

Is the correct way the measure a port that has a 45 in it or do you measure like a standard L-Port.

I just bought a 15" fi btl dual 2 ohm off of craigslist. The box that came with it is obviously way too small and tuned to high. I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what size of box and all that stuff I need to get what I want out of it. The current box is 19"x18x17" that's about 3 cubes and inside that enclosure is half port and the speaker. Way too small. It lacks lower end very much. Im running it off of a autotek ss1500 at 1 ohm. I want it to be audibly loud and hit as hard as possible. I have built many boxes but just want to really make sure this one comes out really well. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

i have a 93 nissan sentra and i purchased a bl18 how should i build the box to fit into the trunck withough compromising sound quality

Just wondering if 2 3in areo's would be enough port for two 8 in subs would be tuned to 31hz need input ASAP

heres my box measurements 5.339 cubic feet i want to use areo ports to tune this box to 30 Hz I want to use maybe 2 - 4 inch areos or what ever you guys think would be the best to use please include the measurement of the flares too please break down the measurements to the areos ill get them for parts express. thanks guys, Bill. ps I need to know asap cause i have the box built its ready to go.

I am not sure what is the right way here? the sub is inverted and firing up. the slot port uses the bottom of the enlosure and fires toward the driver side. not sure where the sub would do best at. thanks chop.

Has anyone done a build in a newer camaro?

So I'm installing a Xcon 12" and was wondering what would be the best placement of the sub and port? Size of the box and tuning? Or if I should so sealed and ported? If ported what type of port? It is going in a 01 eclipce hatchback!

Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever. OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box: (Feel free to steal the design) Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for so…

Birch is looking a lot better than MDF atleast in Miami humidity for a 2002 Chevy Avalanche midgate enclosure. But I need help on the best specs to get the most out of 2 Nightshade 15's sub box. I'm going to coat it with spray on Truck bed liner to protect it. Sundown recommends a 2^3 enclosure but I just wanted any tips and the best layout that's worked for you all.

i need a free box design program to run on my mac thanks

what did you guys you to build your ported box? i mean how did you figure out port length and tuning? what programs did you use or equations.

any one with a 2.2-3.0 cu./ft speaker enclosure for sale. it is needed to house a single 12" bl tuned to 32 hz. o fit in trunk of 2006 ford focus zx4. also if no on that then i need a box for two 12's for trunk of same car with same speakers 12" bl fi loaded.......G

yes guys, as the title says's how in your opinion would you brace this box? here's a link since i can't post pics here: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/487885.html

OK i need to run through and make a check with yall to see if my demisions are rgith for this box and its ports ok the box has 4.6 cuft and it will have 2 re sx 12's each displaces .16 cuft and a port that displaces .24 cuft so total displacement = .56cuft which gives the box roughly 4 cuft so i have the port 15w2H14L = 33hz does this sound ok

Hi, I've read everywhere I could, but I get very different informations!!! My enclosure is about 4 ft3 and has a round 5.6"(diameter) PVC port; port length is 14". It sounds good, but I 've read that port area should be much bigger : 4 (ft3) * 15 = 60 sq inches. And my port is far from that. I don't really know the actual tuning, but I would like it to be around 30-32 hz. Do I have enough port area ? Or enough length? Enough port ? Please, help me !!!

i built a sealed box for this sub .6 cubic feet and it sounds good but it depends on the notes and it just drops off different notes and its loudness lacks majorly im very disappointed in this subwoofer... i have 800 rms going to this sub at 4 ohms and my amp can be wired to 1 ohm at 1600 watts rms and it still sounds like crap? help a brother out.... thanks im at lose and ready to sell the box is air tight its a good box. i m lost ?

I have spent the last few weeks playing with the orientation of my sealed subwoofer box in my trunk and found the best orientation (to my ears anyway) I am now designing a ported box and was wondering if the optimal orientation will change sealed vs ported? Here is the current orientation:

2 part question, lol. 1). I'll be getting an '05 Chevy crewcab next week sometime, and I was wondering if it's possible to get 2.5 cubes anywhere from behind/under the rear seat? 2). If not, I may consider a blow through. The problem is I dont want to cut a big hole. What effect on tuning would building a box like this? Thx for any/all help you guys can give. :clap:

I found a sweet deal I just picked up a killer old school soundstream Rubicon 1002. The blue one. It does 250x2@4 underrated, and 1000x1 at 4 ohm and 2. Will be PLENTY of power for the old front stage. And just a all around sweet amp And I've seen them sell for $250+. I got it for $85... nice...