Sundown Audio
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We unloaded these last week -- they are fully in stock in D2 and D4 coils at the same price as always. Rating is now 500-watts RMS due to the longer coil and modifications to the soft parts. They feature a longer coil, bigger surround, deeper motor structure, and a few other minor modifications. The E-15 v.2 will be coming at some point in October to November.
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well since some of the team member's have them what is the good word? what ohm you running? voltage? test's result's from amp swap's? any problem's? burp or roll? my first one should be here next week and I want to get ahead of the game.
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Was bored so I was designing a new amp rack and then shifted over to making the amp look realistic. NO it is not exact to measurements of the amp, and I don't think I have the patience for that, well I might. Anyway it's 80% done, I have 1 more logo to add to it, and finish the RCA side of the amplifier.
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My buddy just Bought a pair of nightshades and noticed the z series have the same wattage but are cheaper so obviously the nightshades are better but in what way? SpL? Are the z series more for SQ? what's the difference physically about them? For everyday pounding and not competition, what would you recommend? Thanks. Marcus G
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Two of my sample motors arrived -- now I am going to work on the coils and then try them out : It will be for from 8s through 18s. ----- Started a new thread as the original was from a few months ago and the title doesn't really say what it's about Project I'm Working On - Car Audio Classifieds
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Originally posted by Greg Kashin on SMD : SA12+SAZ3500D = 150.4 - SMD Forum ----- Bringing out teh fartcanons...duck and take cover This is yet another SPL set-up from my team-mate Drugban. I've decided to save you guys from the usual on-line translator description fail and post this myself The car is yet another 4-door, small, Russian hatchback this system is being run on just two 75ah BlueTop Optimas - car is off as there's no wiring...voltage drops from 12.6 to 10.8 on the burp sub - one SA12d2 in about 1.5 cubes, 8" flared port. tuned to about 73Hz amp - one SAZ3500D @1ohm car peaks at 56, so burps were done at 56-57 on to the pics Pretty good for you perfect…
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Hi guys. I have a sundown audio sa-10 that has a small Rip on the foam and would like to know if it's repairable.Picture
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Hey all, getting ready to install a 3000 I picked up (will install in about a month) in my 07 f150. I have a yellowtop g34 up front, was planning on running 1 deka intimidator outback and upgrading the alt to a 200amp powermaster. Would this suffice for daily driving or should I look into a 2nd intimidator? Will never be played with the truck off. Reason I'm going with the intimidator and not the powermaster batts is I'm cheap and they look good for the money. Last, does powermaster have a dealer network, or if I'm lookin for an alt do I need to go directly to powermaster? thanks! -bud
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I have a sa8 that's dual 4ohm. I can't wire it to 8ohms there wouldn't be any power. So can the 100.2 go down to 2 ohms bridged and if so how many watts would it push?
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- 1 follower
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Hey guys! Well, I finally built a box on my own. it is not pretty, but then pretty doesn't always add db's. It is 4.13 cubes before displacement and 3. something after displacement. I still have a lot to do inside the box, but it did quite well without any improvements done to it yet. In initial testing, I was able to do 149.19db and at the show I did 149.2. I could probably do better with fully charged batteries. Not too bad for a small box. I have some pics. Tell me what you think.
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are u still taking pre orders on them? how is the sound quality and out put with them tuned low 28-30? thinking about selling my IDQ15s and kicker zx1000.1 and going with either 2 sa-8s or 2 ssa dcons. either way i go i would like to get a sae 1200 to power them. like the idea of running 8s to show ppl wat they can do. front stage is going to be ID ctx65cs powered by a sax 50.4 bridged
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Thanks to the Sundown folks for answering all my stupid "rookie" install questions. This was my first install and I did everything but build the box. My emails were all answered within 20 minutes or less. GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE. Those Nightshades are going to rip my little CRV apart. Here is the finished product. (Well almost. I haven't gotten the 100.4 hooked up yet)
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Look what arrived at my doorstep today!!! Thank you Jacob!
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Pics with the little brother, the E8. Little more info and preliminary T/S specs: 2" coil x 1.57" winding height 1.57" tall magnet stack 0.5" thick top plate Gap Venting Basket Window Venting Pole Venting High profile foam surround Paper cone w/ interlocking poly dust cap Single spider w/ flat, tied down leads 16mm linear one-way x-max ~25 mm one-way x-mech (travel before damage) 300-watt RMS rated power handling Basket and motor will be BLACK for production. Chrome was easier for the prototype. Qes: 0.520 Qms: 4.720 Qts: 0.468 Fs: 32.30 Hz Vas: 55.63 L Re: 7.26 ohms BL: 19.47 N/A Le: 4.47 mH Specs w/ Coils in series - D4 nominal coils. Sealed box specs: 1.5 ft^3 = 0.7…
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basically what i said in the title...what would be some subwoofers that are comparable to the nighshade?
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Jacob, I was wondering if you/Sundown ever considered making endcaps to go on the ends of their amps to cover all the wiring, knobs, inputs, etc... Also a space or cap two go between two amps to make it look like one continous amp would be sweet... So you would have Endcap|Amp|Endacp or Endcap|Amp|Spacercap|Amp|Endcap They look sweet the way they are, but I think this would really clean them up.... Thoughts?
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On a strong 14v electrical, what can I expect? I have a 275 HO Alt, 3 YT, 4 runs of 1/0 (2+/2-). I've sold my MM 2K autotek and i'll be looking for another bigger amp shortly, and i'm kinda leaning towards this.
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Need some opinions! I am gonna be running a 3000d. I am gonna have good electrical. Should I stick with the 1ohm load and see what kind of power I can get out not dropping below 13 volts or since I have the electrical to back it up go with .5? What kinda power difference will I see?
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Hi guys, My name is Donovan and I
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(OK I CHECKED YOUR LINKS.FIRST, ALL TESTING WAS INHOUSE AT SUNDOWN. SECOND, 3000 WATTS WAS AT .05 OHM, AND THIRD I DIDNT SEE PRICE. NOW COMPARE. MY ORION 5000 WATT RUN 2500 RMS @2 OHM AND I CAN GET THEM FOR UNDER 900.00. 5000 WATTS AT 1 OHM. ORION HAS BEEN AROUND FOREVER FROM THE 2150 BEASTS IN THE OLD DAYS TO THE MODERN DAY COMPETITION AMPS. MONEY IS ALWAYS AN ISSUE BUT SO IS QUALITY AND REPUTATION. KEEP THAT IN MIND ----------------- Original Message ----------------- From: TANK Date: Feb 29, 2008 9:22 PM yea i guy told me about them they are in no way shape form or fashion cheap! i been doing a lot of research on them and the company owners are very reliable you can ta…
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I just put a nightshade v2 15 in my truck and noticed it was movin some really good air so i decided to try doin a hair trick. I was greatly surprised!
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Thanks guys for all the support -- this month has been the best in our history for sales. I appreciate all the continued business and support ! To celebrate I may put some things on sale for March
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yes if u guys havent seen my van is done for the season because i cannot afford to keep buying a new windshield after i shatter it in 1 burp. i have decided to give the van away to a local shop to use as a marketing gimmic by shattering a windshield at every one of thier comps they hold. im contracted as team sundown this season and i have 3 practically brand new 3000ds that i have no use for now i didnt know if i am allowed to pass them on to other team members that want to buy a 3000d with the new heatsink design since they are on backorder right now. it sucks to have to get rid of a vehicle that wont let me do what i want because the windshield is the issue.…
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- 3.6k views
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