Sundown Audio

So I hooked up my 100.4. I'm running 4 10 inch RE re's. I ran the subout rcas to the channels 1 and 2 and then ran 3 and 4 off the line outs. I'm using a dmm to tune the amp so I first put the 80hz 0db tone on at a low volume to set my low pass. speakers not hooked up and get all the way down. i stuck the dmm into the pos and neg of the channels 1 and 2 as if bridged. I got a reading of like .725V AC max and turned the low pass knob down until it started to change and figured that must be set at 80hz then. next I read each channel just to compare. they were .36 and .349V. That's fine. I then went on to do channels 3 and 4. It said like .2 something and so I thought the l…

I bought 2 Sundown amps. One sax-100.2 and one sae-1200D. The 1st problem affects both amplifiers. Neither of the remote gain controls work. The blue led lights up on both but when you turn the dial it does nothing. Just so it's clear I set the gains on the amps 1st with a dmm then if I try and adjust it further in my cab with the remote gains nothing happens. The 2nd problem is with the sae-1200d. This amp is barely putting out any power at all. I have triple checked all my wiring and even hooked up an Infinity 600 watt amp to the subs I'm using to see if it does the same thing but it gets plenty loud with the infinity. If it makes a difference I have 2 10" dual 4ohms PG…

I ordered a 3500D and now looking into purchasing a second battery. I currently have an older group 34 optima yellow top under the hood, 1/0 gauge wire ran to the trunk and the big 3 done. I'll be buying a 200 amp alt soon as well. I'm having a hard time deciding on which battery is the best between the Kinetik HC3800 or the PowerMaster D3100. I'm unable to find the complete stats on both. Some stats I have found, the Kinetik has 135AH and the PowerMaster has 117AH. The Kinetik is rated for a 3800 watt system and the PowerMaster 4000/5000+ watts. I havent been able to find CCA or CA for either although I did find the PowerMaster is rated for 3,200A Max Amps. The Kinetik …

just wondering what head units some of the spl guys here with sundown amps are using? over the weekend i was talking to some guys in the lanes they where talking about hu with 3 plus volt outs. that the amps did not like this voltage. the other thing that came up where the rca cable talking about the amps like the cheap rcas compared the good stuff. anyone have any insight on this?

Just curious what head unit some of you are using. I've been using a Kenwood kdc-x791 for the last year and I hate it. It sounds good but the screen is horrible in daytime and the interface is the worst I've ever seen. Anyone have a good suggestion in the $300-$400 range? I mostly play mp3 so that feature is a must.

are the heat sinks grounded on sundown amps ? i would figure so but just checking. does anyone ground the case of thier amp?

hello Jacob, I my nightshades blew on me. I was pushing them with an IA 40.1 @ 1 ohm no bass boost and gain set properly, however, I don't want to change my amp so I want to upgrade these to handle the power. I need to know how much it will be to have these two reconed with more spiders and longer coils. They are dual 1 ohm 15's. Please let me know because I want to get this done asap have the money on hand and getting ready for a local comp. Thanks.

hey all my question is would anyone know the full price of purchase and shipping on 2 zv.4 d2 12's to Ontario Canada website tells me additional shipping required

Worked on the car stereo yesterday. To date, I have the Alpine CDA-9884 with the RUX-C701/PXA-H701 processor/ controller combo installed. I ran the main 1/0 power wire from the stock battery in my 06 Toyota Solara. I sealed my sub box and installed the sub. I wanted to hear the sub before I finished the appearance portion of the box. It is a dual 2 ohm VC wired in Parallel for a 1 ohm load. I have not installed a permanent ground point on the chassis so mounted a temporary 4 gauge wire to a seat lug that sees a resistance of 1.4 ohms. Voltage at the Distribution block when the car is running is 14.1 volts. Th ground is very temporary but also very securely fastened. All …

Okay so im going to buy a whole new system in a year or so but for the mean while i have 2 kicker CVT, a boss amplifier 1600 watts peak, a optima yellow top battery this is all in a 4 door F-150 2007 under the back seat except the batter, and i fell like its not loud, is there any way to improve, it i have the factory radio i dont know if that plays a factor i dont think so but if any body knows how to improve it please help me maby theres a way to port the box or something

I was driving and i heard a pop and my front speakers went out I know it was the amp not the speakers. The rear speakers still are working which doesn't make sense. I have 2 amps a 1500 sundown running the subs and has no problems and the 100.4 sundown running 2 front speakers and 2 rear speakers. I checked the fuses on the side the three green ones and none of them were blown. Like I said the front speakers just went out and the rear ones still play. I also unplugged and plugged back in the input cables. Any info would be great. Probably a Hardcore Newb question but I don't care I will play dumb to get a better answer.

i've tried 2 boxes, and i've yet to get "there" the first box sounds absolutley amazing, goes really deep. only complaint, it sounds like its hitting the spider maybe?(what i was told) certain bass notes make a metal-to metal sqeaking sound. (defintaly from inside the box, not a car/hatch rattle) 34 to 39hz sounds great, exactly how i loved it specs on box"(26x12x18) .7cu ft behind sub, 44" long port (11sq in. port area) next box: .3cu ft behind sub, 48" long port (10sq in port area) this box allowed the volume to go further before; the bass was a lot tighter, and hit harder; but again, making a metal-to metal clipping/sqeaking sound. it was a tigher, higher hz sounding b…

Hello.I am from Russia and my English is very bad... I want to ask for you the help. I have 2 subwoofers sa-10, and to build a box I be not able. You couldn't throw off the drawing of a box for these subwoofers with adjustment 33-35Hz.Help me please.

Can someone design me a box for a nightshade v2. Thanks

I need some help designing the best box possible for daily. I want the box to be tuned about 33. And this is the space I have to work with - Width - 38, Height 13, Depth 36. I sill did not order the sub yet as I still am not sure on what sub to get. My plans are a 15" nightshade, a sundown 2500d (already own), dc alternator all going in a 2003 Mercury Sable. Any comments or suggestions on my future build would be appreciated. Thanks

Anyone know a sub box build for a saturn ion 2 coupe. i would like it to be in the low 30s thanks

Hello all. I have a 2007 Kia Sportage with 2 Nightshade Dual 2 ohm 15's powered by a Sundown SAZ 3000D amplifier. I have the Big3 done and everything is deadened except the roof. That will be done with Damplifier Pro in the near future. I have 2 Optima Yellowtop D-34 Batteries in back for the amp and a smaller yellowtop under the hood. Here is a pic of the setup. I turn my subwoofer box up and get better numbers. My best to date is 149 Sealed on the dash. All I want is one more DB. I would appreciate anybodies input on how to gain 1 more db.

Well i need some help choosing my next amp! here is my future application, 2-15inch NS v1 (already purchased) 2-saz2000(1 of 2 purchased) 1-ID horns 2-nsb 90's big 3 h/o alt (200amp) Now my question is either the 50.4 or the 125.2! I need some help deciding. both amps have pluses and i am leaning towards the 50.4. So here are the immediate plus i see: 50.4, future application due to the 4channels and resell able 50W x 4CH RMS 4 ohm stereo 80W x 4CH RMS 2 ohm stereo 160W x 2CH 4 ohm bridged 125.2 more power, less $20 lol 125 watts x2 @ 4 ohms 200 watts x2 @ 2 ohms 400 watts x1 @ 4 ohms bridged Now for the question which would you choose to power a pair of ID Horns…

i have nighshave V2s now,. with ZV3 spiders on them.. i likem them very much so... they are soft. i was able to reach 151.3 DB with my current set up... but i want more... so i can go a few routes. help me men!

Well the more I study the x-over section on the 50.4, the more unsure I am. Basically I want to run two channels to my 6.5 " mid-bass. I'm planning on using the LPF on my HU so I just need to x-over the top end, not sure where yet. Then the other two channels to my tweets thru HPF on amp. The sub-sonic filters on both sets of channels has me a little confused. Could someone be so kind as to tell me a good starting point on ALL switches? Also I'm running one set of RCA's to the amp and the other set to my sub amp. Can I use just one set of inputs or do I need to use Y adapters (would rather not do that because of any signal degradation, tho probably not much). Than…

well ive built many boxes for my ext cab s10 over the past 2 years, and ive never really been happy with it. Right now im running 3 sa12's on a saz 3500. my box currently is 5.26cubes @ 31hz with 81.25 in2 of port, with subs firing forward, port up drivers side. The box i tried before this was subs forward, 2 6" aeros firing up @ 36hz. I liked the box with the aeros but wouldn't play the lows i wanted it to (but found out later after 2nd box my ssf needed to be turned down, so im not truly sure if it would play the lows i wanted it to or not. So my question is, is there anyone with experience with trucks like these, and what should i do next? i would like to reuse my 6" a…

Well i got my custom vented box built at 2 cubic feet tune at 35Hz. Now i need help setting the settings on my amp for my single 2ohm dvc sa-12. Any ideal what i need to set my lpf and subsonic filter to.

Sorry for the multiple post. I wanted this in the Sundown section, so reposted here... My son really likes the SA8s and wants to upgrade his stereo system. Can someone help with a box design? I assume someone has done this already and has posted a box design of what they did. I've been looking but have found some crazy installs. We only want to do two subs. Ported since that is the recommended design. If going sealed does not hurt that much, then that would be an easier build. This will be our first sub project together so want to do something on the easy side. We built a pirogue so have skills. BTW, he will be powering these with a Cadence ZRS-2002 going with 2 channel,…

Just finished wiring up my car and I'm kinda confused about the settings on the amp. Heres my setup: SAX 100.4 (#1) Bridged 1&2 = Left Mid Bridged 3&4 = Right Mid SAX 100.4 (#2) Ch 1 - Left Tweeter Ch 2 - Right Tweeter Ch 3&4 = Saved for future sub Ok from my previous installed with a Pioneer Premiere 860MP running actively, I know where I want my Xovers to be at, but I just dont know how set that on the amp. Its been four years since I last setup my system. I recently swapped headunits to a Pioneer Avic D3 and now will be going passive. Heres how I had it set on the 860MP: Low : LPF=50Hz Mids: HPF=63Hz / LPF=2kHz High: HPF=2.5kHz How would I adjust thos…

Ok guys, well im doing an install update on wends in which im adding a kinetik 2400, 1800, replacing some crappy rcas with nice knu krystals, adding a 1/0 negative run between kinetiks, adding more power wire etc, adding 880 prs to replace my crappy alpine, and last adding the second sae-1000D proto for substage. anyways. i want to create an amp rack that provide the proper airflow that the amps need to allow them to cool and breathe. and im tossing around how i will design it. but it will house my 2 sub amps, the 1000's. I want to put the amp rack on the back of my box, that is 40" long, but i want to keep the amp rack to around 32 - 33" so it fits between my trunk braci…