Sundown Audio

looking at a SAZ and SAE1000d, and need to clarify the differences. -thinner case on the SAE -smaller heatsink on the SAE What were the other differences? Any reason not to get the SAE?

This is probly a frequent flying question, but I was wondering if somebody could lead me in the right direction. I'm getting a 15 Fi Q sub, and I cant decide on which sub would be best for me. I'm mainly looking for SQ since I know that it will be loud with either amp. I'm not looking to go into any comps or anything like that. thanks.

I have a prototype SAE-100.4 on the way with my 1200D shipment... here are a few pictures of it to share : It features a new double sided board design like the SAE-1200D v.2 does. Crossovers are very basic as it is an SAE model and it is also made in China alongside the SAE-1200D. This will NOT replace any SAX multi-channel models... it is simply a part of our lower cost SAE line. There is NO ETA YET... price is also pending.

Hello All, Im finally going to install my amp I bought a few months back and have a few questions. Let me start by telling you were Im at. Im going to be installing an Sae-1000D amp powering an RE SE 10" rated @ 600watts @ 2 Ohms. I also have a 4 ch PPI amp bridged 160 watts running my front components. The car currently has 4 ga wiring. Would 4 ga still be enough to run the 1000 and PPI amps. Also what size fuse should I use for the power wire. Thanks in Advance, Mike

I'm curious why there hasn't been any mention of these amps since the preorder shipped out. There was a lot of talk up until then and I sort of expected some reviews to follow. Maybe I missed it but I dont remember seeing anything. So how is everyone liking these? I am considering picking up a couple and just wondering how they are performing for people.

What's the highest voltage I can give a SAE-1000D and SAX-100.4? I'm giving them between 13.8 and 14.2 volts in park before voltage drop and the lowest I've seen it drop is 13.2 volts while playing at max. I'm considering a voltage regular for my EA 250A alternator. I may be adding another 1000D btw.

The latest word on the arrival of the SAE-1000D shipment is May 1st - 2nd. Pre-orders will be shipped starting the day they arrive and some will also go out the next day -- when yours ships you will get a tracking number from UPS, so you will know that it has shipped.

Just wondering if anyone has run or seen a SAE-1000D at .5ohms? I'm thinking of doing this but not quite sure yet. any opinions?

The amp blew some fuses. I replaced them and the amp works fine on the 10 minute drive home. I was at a football game doing a promotion with a radio station. The car and amp was on for about three hours. On the way leaving the game, it played fine for about 30 seconds, and my sub (Fi.Q 15 D2) suddenly stopped working. Checked the amp and it was just completely off. Would the prolonged playing time have something to do with it?I just want to know why this happen and make sure it doesn't happen again.

Ok so in the manual it loooks like I have to connect both positive speaker out terminals to the + speaker and both negative to the speaker negative to run it bridge... is that correct? On my other amps it was always the positive to speaker A + and the negative to speaker B negative

what would cause fuses to blow on the amp? i dont know if the plastic casing on the fuses just expanded from poppin or the casing of the fuse was slightly melted. there are 3 30a fuses, i am using a 100a maxi fuse on the battery wire (4g). i was using 12g for the speaker wire, witch i now upgraded to 9g after installing the new fuses. the amp seemed to be fine when i checked it out after cutting out. is there a certain fuse you recommend for the amp or size? also, should i use the same size wire to wire the sub inside of the box as same as the speaker wire i got running from the amp? its probably about 12g inside. thanks

Quick gain setting question. I am running the 1000D on a AA Havoc, which is a 1200W rms driver, at 1ohm. When I set the gain using the DMM method to attain an output of 1000W with at an ideal 1ohm load the VAC reading should be about 31.6. However, at this level the output of the driver does not seem to be anywhere near it's full potential. When I actually measured the impedance of the sub wired at "1ohm" it was in the 1.2-1.4ohm range. So my question is should I use sqrt(1000*1.4)= 37.4VAC instead of sqrt(1000*1)=31.6VAC when setting the gain? Also, how do you normally factor in the bass boost, LPF, and sub-sonic filter settings when setting the gain? Thanks!!!!

These are actually of a proto that was shipped in December to Mike (theothermike). He was nice enough to share with us!

I clamped the SAE-1000D on my bench setup: Pyramid 50 Amp Power Supply Kinetik 2400 Battery Duralast 1000 CA Battery Fluke AC current / voltage meter Sears DMM Test load used was 2x SI Mag D2 12" all coils in parallel for 0.6 DCR with a rise to 1.08 ohms. Voltage = 32.19 Volts Current = 34.6 Amps Supply = 14.4v rest dropping to 12.5 volts Power = 1113 Watts I know I had alot of people asking about this, so there it is!

I am opening the pre-order for the SAE-1000D as of today. Pre-Order Pricing: 1x SAE-1000D = $250 2x SAE-1000D = $450 MSRP pricing is $399 per amplifier. The due date is April 25th but these things tend to be 1 - 2 weeks late due to delays in transit so that is not a guaranteed ship date. I would expect to ship these, realistically, by May 9th. If you are in a rush I would not place a pre-order due to the possibility of delays. Paypal to [email protected] -- these prices include shipping in the USA. If you want to pre-order in Canada you must contact Steve Ross @ Smart Auto Sound Solutions in Canada. Pre-Order will be open until April 25th, after that you will have…

I hope this isn't a stupid question. A friend of mine has the SAE-1000D and wants to run it at 2 ohms to power his pair of JL Audio W3v3 13.5s with 600 watts until he has the money to get the electrical upgrades he needs for his car. He bought the amp so he could expand his system when ready. Right now he has a Batcap 800. He eventually wants to get a bigger alternator and 2 good drycell batteries in place of the Batcap and a 2nd SAE-1000D and 2 Icon 15s, but for the time being just wants to use his JLs. How should he treat his gain for the JLs being the amp is going to be ran at 2ohms rather than the amps max at 1ohms?

So the 1000 is rated at 1000W @ 14.4 volts. What kind of numbers are we looking at closer to voltages on stock electrical, say 13V? Would two 1000d's be content on an 100A alt, with the big 3, and a battery in the rear? Also, one amp does 1000W, but two strapped does 1800. Why is this? And one more question... would a 1000d on a Fi SSD 12" wang awesomely? Thanks! -Trevor

I have a replacement candidate for the SAE-1000D... same build house as the upcoming SAE-1200D model. I would call this the SAE-800D model. Here is the question... how many people buy the SAE-1000D for the small form factor? The current SAE-800D prototype is the same size as the SAE-1200D (as big as the SAZ-1500D). It would cost less than the current SAE-1000D but is substantially bigger - it's just not as compact of a PCB design. The benefit is that it has an even beefier design so all the components are even less taxed than the already super reliable SAE-1000D. The new build house doesn't like the idea of making a small form factor amp - it is not something they are use…

My buddy was driving and had his system on... And it turned off. So he came to my house. All the fuses were fried. And when i opened it up, theres a black wire that is now disconnected... How? Idk. What would cause this? Can i just sauder a new wire on and be good to go? the amp is a SAE-1200 and its running 2 Fi Q 12" D1's Thanks. Pics...

Im about to purchase 2 of these amps Just was curious if they have an unregulated power supply. Also was wondering as to the general difference, if any, between the SAE series and the SAZ series as may upgrade to a single SAZ-3000D in the next year or so. Any helpful reviews of this amp would be awesome as well:D.

i read some were that the SAE-1200D is not stable @ 1 ohm. is this true? would i be able to run an fi bl with dual 2 ohm coils at 1 ohm for long periods without harming the amp?

Ok Has anyone tested the 1200D at 2 ohms and 14.5v? What can I expect for power? I have a pair of DD 1008a's I want to power with it. Opinions? David

I've just opened up the tummy of my amp and discovered that one of the coils or inductors are touching one of the fuse legs, is that anything to worry about? and uhhh hope i havnt just got rid of my warranty?? ehh.....prob doesnt matter anyway because it will be over a years time from purchase that i may actually use it lol... I'll post a pic in a sec!!

Recently my 1200D has been going into protect after about 30 seconds of being on and I have no idea what's causing it. I always let me car run for a few minutes before turning my amps on (they are both on switches). Two days ago I went and bought all new brass screws, bolts, and washers and re-did my grounds for both the Sundown and my Pheonix Gold amp. I sanded the paint off the area and tightened them down. Yesterday I pulled the Sundown out of my car and opened it up to make sure nothing burned up. Visually, everything looks perfect and my fuses are intact. I guess the problem started when I got my component set but I don't see how that could be the issue. I've checked…

Hey guys, i was just wondering if my stock alternator in an 1998 infiniti i30 will be good enough, its 110a. Also, double checking but is it needed to do the big 3 and also what amp install kit should i get.