Sundown Audio

hey guys I tried posting in the fab section about my box, but figured I'd post here as well considering this is the board ive been reading for the past year. but anywho, last summer i came across a fellow on here from saskatoon,SK which happens to be where im from, said he would build me a box, but i just didnt have the dough at the time....just hopeing he's still here. I think he had an oilers logo as his avatar. but if not could someone pleeeeeease hook me up with a design/blueprint for my 2 12" r's off a 1500D @1ohm. Ive searched the web, but didnt really come up with anything I trust.

In the manual, it shows it can be bridged to drive 2 subwoofers, but i want to just bridge it to power my Phoenix Gold RSD comps... If I bridge channels 1 & 2, 3 & 4, how would I connect my RCA's if I am only using the "front" outputs on my HU. Do I need a 1 female to 2 male splitter? to drive 1 & 3 left and 2 & 4 right? im a little confused at this point... thanks in advance for any help. Cody

i'm thinkin about getting a SAZ-1500D i need to know is the wired remote on sundown amps for bass boost or gain, hopefully gain..thanks in advance

Having troubles setting the gains on my SAE-1000D, i'm hooking it up to an SSA Icon 15" into a 1ohm load and am not quite sure that the DMM should read. I've visted a couple of sites and one person said that the volts should be at 31.6 but that is way to low. Was wondering if anyone could give some incite into this. Thanks.

Ok so I have a stock Jetta 1999.5... I dont know if the provided link helps at ALL, but I really need to know something. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2191.html What would I need to upgrade to be able to get the most out of my SAZ 1500 without it like exploding or something. Lol obviously an exageration. But what would I need to do? And if at all possible perhaps a price range?... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a ton, Devon P.S. Sorry if i violated some unwritten rule... Im new at this.

yesterday i was making a point............. i pulled out the old 2x15" box and barrowed my old T4 15" subs from my teammate first run 152.1db second run 153.1db third run 153.4db on 12v with the Missing link Audio device kicking it up too 15.2v was hoping Rexzilla would show up and see the Smerk on my face !!! he doe's 152db with a wall & 6 subs he made the comment that he had beat me !!! i think not if the best he can do is a 152db with 6 subs, he needs to go back to Usuck and play big shot there !!! wait till i get a second Sundown 3000d Tax return bebe edit : oh snapp i forgot to mention that i picked up 6- 8v batterys yesterday 16v here i come

So just got back from college and still having problems with my channel 2 on the amp. The tweeter goes on and off when i drive. It comes back after i shut the headunit off for any given amount of time - could be quick could be long. I checked the connection of the speaker and saw that it was not solid so i replaced the speaker wire and fixed the connection; nevertheless the tweeter still does not play. Any ideas? I have tried the same speaker on channel 1 and it works fine.

Well, work started today on an install into the BMW. This is going to be a DC Audio/Sundown Audio demonstrator over here in the UK. The main thrust of todays work was to get the steel frame into position in the rear of the car, ready for the main woodwork to start going in tomorrow We have now got 5 runs of speaker cable down each side of the car, 2 0AWG ground, 2 x 0AWG power running down to the original chassis ground point and battery terminal. (the car has 1 x 0AWG run down from Alt to Battery as standard, may upgrade this if we fit a bigger alternator to it - 140 in there at the moment!), and 3 x RCA's going to the front.

So what am I looking at for draw on a 3000d at 2 ohms. I'm considering 4 of the sd1v2 10s (ok, I'm considering lots of different setups...anyways) Basically I don't want to pay out my ass on electrical and upgrade my alternator and take up alot of space for batteries. I got a Magnum which has a 160 amp alt stock. What can I get by for batteries. Will a single Powermaster 3100 do it. Almost forgot, front stage will be a pair of sax100.2's. Thanks.

When can we be expecting the SAX 250.2 and what type of power would it do? .......rms X 2 @ 4ohm and rms X 2 @ 2ohm? and at what fuse rating?

ok is it possible to strap them at .5 nominal strictly for burping?? also how many batteries would i need to give them the juice they need?

What kind of power does the 100.4 make per channel at 8 ohms?

I'm about to purchase a 1500d from a guy that is local to me. I was just wondering what it takes to run this thing at .5 ohm. My electrical will be: Stock 140a alternator, Big 3 done Powermaster D3100 battery for the front Powermaster D680 for the back Is there any reason that i wouldnt be able to run the 1500 at .5 ohm daily?

My new SAZ-1500D (Jacob, you're the best!) came in via UPS today. It just occurred to me that nobody has posted pics of the new heatsink for this model, so here you go! This is a crappy picture, but it shows off the upper heatsink.

If i was to be running re audio components all around would the SAX-100.4 be able to power up those speakers pretty good?

Where should i set my ssf filter to on my saz-1500d? Using it to push a AQ hdc in a 3.5 cube box tuned to 38.

change my color from red to gray: deaden the whole car with Dynamat extreme new gear: head unit: alpine 9887 front speaker: Ciare CM161 midrange 6" 4pcs. ,CIare CW202 8" woofer 2pcs. , Ciare CT267 1" horn tweeter. subwoofer: 2 FI BTL18 fully loaded amp for front speakers: 2 Sundown audio SAX100.4 amp for sub: 2 SAZ3000D battery: 4 kinetik hc1800 wires: all by stinger processor: audiocontrol eql for front speakers box: 7cubic ft. tune @ 38hz here are the photo's: more hoto's to come

well this is my van...a 1995 Nissan Quest... at the moment i have: Kenwood x591 HU 4 5x7 blown speakers...planning on replacing them by 2 8's and 2 6.5" pro audio speakers profile baja 2 ch amp for the speakers... 1 15" audiopipe txx-15rd 1 SAZ-1500d optima yellow top g31 in the back now the picz old box.... new box... My Loudest score has been 137 on the tl on a small sealed prefab...going to a local comp tpday hopefully with my new box i touch the 140s

Went out to another TBP event out in Longview today with the car in 85 degree weather.. 1st run was 151.3 2nd run was 151.2 3rd run was 151.3 all with the mic in the passenger kick. I also tryed port wars, and I've never done it before, but I managed a 165.9 in port wars. Apparently thats pretty high for 1 sub to...go figure ... These amps are astonishing everyone. They are performing flawlessly and everyone wants to know where to get them..I need some brochures Jake...and I need to step up to a pair of 3000D's....hook me up.. I acquired a 18" RE SX today, and I'm planning on building a wall with this woofer, with the trunk as my Infinite Baffle and tearing some stuf…

Pics with the little brother, the E8. Little more info and preliminary T/S specs: 2" coil x 1.57" winding height 1.57" tall magnet stack 0.5" thick top plate Gap Venting Basket Window Venting Pole Venting High profile foam surround Paper cone w/ interlocking poly dust cap Single spider w/ flat, tied down leads 16mm linear one-way x-max ~25 mm one-way x-mech (travel before damage) 300-watt RMS rated power handling Basket and motor will be BLACK for production. Chrome was easier for the prototype. Qes: 0.520 Qms: 4.720 Qts: 0.468 Fs: 32.30 Hz Vas: 55.63 L Re: 7.26 ohms BL: 19.47 N/A Le: 4.47 mH Specs w/ Coils in series - D4 nominal coils. Sealed box specs: 1.5 ft^3 = 0.7…

The old thread was getting, well, old... so it's time for a new one. The build house that I was working with on the X12 for the previous three iterations of prototypes was unable to produce my design to spec properly... so production has been moved elsewhere. Since I was already behind I decided to implement all of my other ideas for improving the design now rather than for later versions. 1) Changed to dual, mirrored progressive spiders -- they were linear units before 2) Optimizing top plate to coil height ratios for better BL linearity -- top plate is now 16mm tall 3) Optimized magnet ID and height to avoid wasting magnet mass (not making it heavier than necessary) 4) …

All items back in stocks! SAZ-1500Ds and SAX-100.4s now feature the new heatsink design just like the SAZ-3000D!!! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=14044

First off... I have to ask: will it be as efficient as a brand new one? Secondly... what voltage should I expect the true 1K RMS @ 1-ohm?

in the sticky where they did a test this is what was read Power supply voltage was 16.5 volts at rest dropping to around 14.5 volts. So consider this a 14.5 volt output rating. Our clamp meter ran out of steam at 400 amps so we measured efficiency at lower levels: 3294 watts @ 84% efficiency (252 amps draw) 3938 watts @ 81% efficiency (316 amps draw) 4424 watts @ 74% efficiency (392 amps draw) here is my question and i want to get a better understanding of this so bear with me for a minute..lol 3294 watts with 252 amps draw..now lets say your running 2 of the 3k watt models which would be 504 amps draw? and if your alt is only a 300 amp alt how does that work? im sure i h…

* More fins added to the side. * The main change, 10mm added height to add fins under the face. * Mirrored part number so that when you flip the "Sundown Audio" bar it looks the same as before. --- There we go Eventually the whole SAX and SAZ line will have this case.