Advanced Discussion

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I have 4 4 ohm 10's in my car now, wired to 1 ohm for my saz-1500d. I am thinking of upgrading to 4 12's. The 12's I am looking at only come in dvc config, so to get 1 ohm, i need to get dvc-2's. My question is should I wire the coils on each sub series and then wire the subs parallel, or vice-versa? Would it make a difference to the amp? I would end up with a 1 ohm load either way. Any help would be appreciated.

i've been trying to figure this out for a while now.. in a ported enclosure, how would you determine the phase of the sound emanating from the port at any given time? e.g. you have a 4cu.ft box tuned 40Hz.. and you play 3 tones, 35Hz, 40Hz and 45Hz.. will the phase of the port ever be in-phase with the sub? or will the tuning of the box and tone being played determine the phase of sound coming from the port? or would the distance between the back of the woofer and the port determine it?? i know the phase of the sound coming directly off the woofer's cone is 0 deg.. what i want to get is the phase of the sound coming from the port to match that coming from the sub at the d…

check the linky>>> db calculator

So i've been searching a few different places, but I don't THINK im finding the answer I need ... The question is this(I've been pondering about it for a while) ... If you have a mono channel amplifer, and have 2 DVC subwoofers(wired how you need) .. how much does the amplifier send to each woofer? how do you go about figuring this out? If you have 2 subwoofers rated for 500RMS and a MONO Amplifier for 1000 watts RMS, how do you know each sub is getting 500 watts ? How does the amplifier split up the power(I guess)?

I guess I'm being really optmistic here, but are there any pieces of software (free, would be nice ) that accurately model horn-loaded speakers in room? I'm trying to model efficiency gains from different types of enclosures, and most modeling software comes painfully short... All the research I've done on horns doesn't give actual numbers for efficiency gains; of course, most of that is room/placement dependent, but some general guidelines would be nice to go on...

I'm curious on what type of aluminum people use for bus bars and such? I will be making some to fit my post batteries because I can't find any terminals I like. Plus making my own will cost less, because I need four.

I have not put to much though into this but I was just wondering if this would be a great charging system for car audio. The way a hybrid vehicle works is it runs off battery power at low speeds and at idle. The only way gas is used is when the voltage drops past a certain level to charge the batteries. This would be ideal for competition use as the charging system is geared toward the idle to low rpm range. There are multiple batteries in a hybrid setup and I am sure that the charging system would have to be pretty beefed up to charge a hybrid vehicle. A regulator could be used to change the voltage at which the charging system kicks in. If you were to have a high power…

I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. Im wanting to know if i can/should mount 2 yellow tops on their "backs" stacked on top of each other. Anyone have experience with this?

I'm working on a project for a buddy of mine and I've come across a bit of a hold up. I'm more than familiar enough with circuit design, crossover components and such to build crossovers. I've been doing it for quite a few years with results that I felt were what I needed. I've come across something different with this as my buddies tweeter is significantly louder than the midrange or the woofer in his 3 way floor standing speakers. The speakers haven't been used in several years and when we hooked them up to test and tune the system for his mom's upcoming birthday party that we were going to DJ ourselves the old tweeters didn't work. Instead of waiting for me to hel…

This topic is to discuss test box alignments and tuning for a 6.5"-7" midbass. I am planning on testing quite a few mids in different alignments. MY GOAL IS TO achieve tight accurate dynamic midbass down to 63Hz, with overhead in the output. I am after a very open natural crystal clear sound. I am NOT after punchy colored thick sluggish midbass. My current set up is the Seas U18 in an IB (deadened doors). They are crossed @63hz 24db slope presently. I am running two 15" Icons sealed, crossed @50hz 24db slope. The U in its current alignment handles these frequencys, but has what I believe to be cone edge resonance once at reference level. Plus has no overhead…

I am burping my loudest freq below the tuning of the port. My only question is, how much lower should I tune the port to? I burp the loudest at 47, port is tuned to 52 Would tuning it at 45 be okay?

I remember reading about this somewhere, but I can no longer find the information. I'm wondering if any of the EEs we have can give me some insight as to the benefits other than cost and how to implement them into my system. This will mainly be used for control of alarm accessory channels. Thanks!

I think this will be the best place to post this as I am not ready to buy anything for a bit, but I do want to know what to buy when I am and be better informed. What I would like to know is what limits us from getting down to verry low Hz in speakers with any real force. I know the basic design doesn't allow us to get to .0000001hz mechanicaly and such but what factors contribute to this and what should someone look for in trying to acheive this? I don't think I am asking the question correctly because I don't have a strong grasp on the lingo enough to use it properly, but I usualy understand technical jargon when used or I can look it up, so I'll give you the applicati…

I've noticed that a lot of people suffer from the same misconceptions about the same topics in the world of car audio. This seems a befitting place to dispell those myths. Amplifiers Amplifiers do not magically create power. They simply convert existing power from your car's electrical system (amperage and voltage) to amplify a source feed (usually RCA or Line Level input). Just because your amplifier says it puts out "1000w RMS" doesn't always mean that your electrical system will put out enough power to actually achieve this rated power. In fact, 9 times out of 10, it won't. Even if your electrical system will support the amplifier's needs, it isn't constantly putting o…

In ported enclosure, if you were to use PVC or Aero ports of different sizes tuned to different fequencies what would be the end result? Would the tuning frequency of the box be based off of the total port area or how would that exacly work? J

I'm am totally lost. All I know is that houses run 8 ohms and cars run from .5 to 4 ohms. what is the difference between running a sub at say 300 x 1 at 2 ohms and 200 x 1 at 4 ohms? What are ohms exactly?

What kind of tones do you guys use ? 0dB, -3dB, -6dB ? I've used the 0dB tones a few times. Worked ok with the gain setting for my mids but when I used it for the subs in 2 installs I had to turn up the gain (after setting it) just to blend the sub in with the front stage. I read everything here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4256 but except Jmac's post I don't think I could draw a conclusion for myself. By ear is good enough for my car ( I just need the sub to blend in) but when it comes to getting the full output on music, 0dB tones haven't worked

just something i was looking at today. The basic highpass filter will allow for higher peak voltages then the input has. basically -- if you put in a 1V peak square wave, you can get peaks of 2V from a highpass filter. this is easy to show with RC circuits such as a simple cap inline with the speaker. Square wave goes to 1V. cap charges to 1V. square wave goes to -1V, cap is still charged to 1V. voltage across speaker is now -2V. cap will charge to -1V, square wave chages to +1V, speaker sees +2V. note that RMS power is lower, but peak power is higher. ----------------------------------------------------------------- This brings up two issues: 1.) the peak values c…

Our team is looking to purchase a clamp meter/dmm setup for competition this year, some guys are running 1000rms, others will be above 7500rms. So I've been looking at the fluke 376 clamp meter. But when I get to looking at DMM/s, I'm lost as to what we really need. I'd really like to get some and seriously need help. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be very appreciative. Basic goals are to find out exactly what our box rise is, and how much power we are actually drawing so we can fuse properly. I'm looking at a clamp meter that will read up to 1000A so we have some overhead. Also looked at the iFlex cable for the Fluke, would that be worth while? Thanks…

2007 Honda Accord Pioneer 80PRS Sundown SAZ1500 Fully Loaded 12in FI BL 2.5 cu ft box after displacement tuned to 34 hz All 0g wire and Shruiken 1500 extra batt plus yellowtop up front The FS of the sub is 39.8 and i was wondering if there was any relationship between fs and box tuning? My main goal is SPL but I will use it as a daily driver so i dont want the sound quality to go to shit.

Hey everyone, I posted a thread a while ago about trying to work out the ports for an enclosure for my sub. I've spent alot of time deciding whether or not to go with a ported or sealed enclosure. I've decided to go for a sealed enclosure instead. I've been using Bass Box Pro to try and design an enclosure and I'm getting a bit frustrated Here are the specs of the sub: 15” Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.58 Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 3.62 Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.501 Free Air Resonance -Fs: 19.10 Hz Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 207.0 liters One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 54 mm Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 85.81 dB SPL Effective Piston Area -Sd: 810 cm^2 DC Resistance -Re: 4.2 o…

Hey guys this is going to be a long question lol i am tearing everything out of my truck and starting over even though everything is mostly out. so where do i start i have a 01 GMC sierra single cab dropped on 20s will upgrade to 24s lol and i am looking at putting in two 10s for now possibly DC or FI audio depends the mounting depth on them are around 6 inches i believe ether Level 2 or 3 DC subs the 10s depending on price and the SSD FI 10s what do you guys think? so it should fit i will build a custom box sealed possibly ported if anyone can give me some ideas it would be great i am looking for any feed back. so that gets to the wiring.... Big 3 upgrade or extra batt…

I am trying to fit this 10" under my seat in my 08 silverado ext cab, But this seems like an impossible task because its so much bigger than most 10s, i havent read or seen anyone do anything about this and im wondering if i even can and if anyones done it short of taking out a seat?

hey i have a problem that i cannot figure out my btl will run loud like it should but sometimes in mid beat it's like some one turned the dimmer switch down half way ?? i checked my preouts they range from .5 to 4.6 when bumping hard but as var as voltage being put out to the sub at full tilt it's only registering 20-26 at the most i an running a btl 12" duel 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a saz 2000d now should the volts match to somewheres around 44v at full tilt or i'm i doing somthing wrong while mesuring the volts for the out put i put the positive on the red and negative on the black for the speaker outputs right? could i be a loose conection in the box causing one voice…