Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

I'm changing my T600-2 running 2 P3's to a T1000_4ad. Unfortunately I have to bridge them seperately and must use two different gain controls. I wish it had a master, slave control but there independant and want to know how to balance the gain between the two subs. I don't want one sub hitting harder than the other.

I have some pioneer speakers that rms at 40w and I have three amp choices that are in my price range what would be better Mb quart onx4.60 @$99 Alpine mrp-f300 @ $149 Kicker dx200.4 @ $149 Please help

My system is currently running active with a 9886, h100 and is powered by an alpine mrp-f250 [email protected] @4 ohm, my speakers are focal access series components(minus the passive crossovers). I have an Eclipse 3242 that I thought was a good amp, but turns out to have some issues. I bought the eclipse for $75 about a year ago and it's been sitting. It looks pretty beefy internally and has alot of fusing (4x20a) making me wonder if it's underated. It's rated [email protected] 4 ohm. And 55x4 @13.8v @4 ohm. I have a friend that can mess with it and hopefully fix it for around $20. I have three options that I would like help with. I can keep using the f250, fix the eclipse and use it,…

lets say i get this amp: http://shop.vendio.com/inetdistributors/it...7115/index.html and run 2 coaxes off 2 channels for 60-70w @ 4 ohms each and run 2 subs off the other two channels for 150w @ 2 ohms each run rca's from the rear channel jacks in the amp to the sub control jacks in the HU, will i be able to control the subs from the HU?

hello guys i was wondering would it be ok to run 1 sub that is 150 watts rms off a 4 channel amp and run front speakers in a car on the other 2 channels of the amp ?

I have a PDX 4.100 and (2) 6.5 Alpine Type R component sets, what do i set the input channel too? I think 1+3/2+4 but the way Alpine worded this shit on the manual has me lost. I just want it so each 6.5 gets 100wrms. "Setting this switch to 1 + 3/2 + 4 will sum the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3 while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed and sent to CH-4" Thanks guys.

Is it ok to use only two channels of a four channel amp?

which do you prefer and why? Myself enjoy a good powerful 2 channel instead of a 4 channel.

i was wondering if i could get away with usein 4ga on my pa 3000ab for a while until i got enough money for 1/0?

Due to my battery hookup location and the fact that it will be nearly impossible to get a 0 gauge wire on it unless I rewire the alternator and main power line toa new battery block, how bad would it be to run 4 gauge wire to a fuse block and 0 gauge afterwards? According to charts 4 gauge should be able to handle up to 300 Amos if it is a short length. So will battery —> fuse (4 gauge 1 ft long) —> distribution block (0 gauge guessing 13 ft long). Will this work ok?

alright, I have 4 guage wiring right now, not installed. and there is some 1/0 on here I was considering buying, but if I dont need it then why spend more money. I am going to do the big 3 in 4 gauge, there will be a run of probably 8+ feet to a D block under my seat where a 4ch amp will sit. it will enter a D block, and leave as 8 gauge to the 2ch. another run of 4 will leave the D block and make a trip of about 6+ feet to the sub amp behind the rear seat. I am going to set the gain on the sub amp at 800 watts, and not sure whats happening with the front stage, but worst case scenario - rear channels will be 100x2 and fronts 75x2. so Ill be pushing 1150 watts at the mos…

maybe this is a really stupid question, but i have always wondered what would be better for a component set, a 2 channel or a 4 channel, and why?

hey guys, its been a while since i last was on here. Broke down and decided to get 4 skar vvx10's for my truck. Its a 2001 ford f250. The woofers are d4's so ive been trying to figure out which was the bes route to go with amps. I wont lie, I picked up a Soundstream rub1.1600d initally and was going two run two of them (2 woofers per 1600). Electrcial wont be an issue as i already have a 270 amp alt and an xs power 3000 secondary battery. Deka batt in the front. I'm just stretched on amp choice. I've looked at everythng and just cant decide. I trust the soundstream, but if there is better out there, i wanna try them. any suggestions? if i could keep it under $800 id be st…

I'm installing an amp for my speakers and I'm just wanting to know what I should do for the crossover settings. I have 6.5" Alpine Type S components up front and 6.5" Alpine Type S coaxials in the back. What should I use for the input levels at the front (Full or HPF) and at the back (Full or HPF)? Lastly, what should the frequency be for the front and the back? I'm just going passive btw. Thanks in advance for any help!

Alright, so i own a PG Ti. 500.4 and my speakers will randomly seem to cut in and out. All of a sudden only 1 speaker in my car will be working, and at other times all 4 will work. Now i went back and checked my amp, it seems that the aux inputs are the problem. When i wiggle them around a bit, unplug them and plug them back in they all work. They will work for like a week and then start cutting out again. I actually ended up taking the cover off and looking at the solder points on the amp where the inputs are and they seem to be fine. Should i just like... tape the wires in place so that they dont move? Idk what else to do.

First of all i'm thinking of running 2 audio que 18s (HDC318) on 2000w rms a piece, is this possible? If it is possible, would i only need 1 ho alt and how many amps? 300? lastly, should i switch my stock battery with something different AND throw one in the trunk or what would you suggest? Thanks.

Just received my 4/0 cable from unknown source (Nope, not Welding supply). Anyways, did some measurements on dimensions and weight and thought some will find this information interesting. Used analog caliper and let it measure all following specs stress-free (i wasn't holding it) Knukonceptz Kolossus- OD jacket- 0.57" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.47" (rated on website as 0.472") Copper only wire. MAX LOAD rated on website- 375A @20ft (does not correspond to safe continuous use via NEC Standard which is to not allow voltage drop greater than 0.5v) Knukonceptz CCA- OD jacket- 0.60" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.5" (rated on website as 0.47…

Anyone have a good place to buy 4/0 Power Wire?

I may need to order some wire specifically for tight areas soon. If i do, has anyone actually used both of these before? I know Kolossus Flex is so flexible it feels like there is no wire in the jacket... But i do not know how flexible they have made the 4/0 in RE... My runs would need to do an "S" in about a 6" range.

Wondering if anyone has used the 4/0 welding supply wire.... I have some interest in using wire this thick just so that I'll only need to run 1 run instead of a few 1/0 runs. I'd like to see some size comparison pictures or something. Also wondering how the 1/0 welding supply wire compares to the knu wire as far as size. I read some stuff on here about how copper is so much better than copper clad aluminum, and would like to change it up now. Thanks!

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

Hello SSA! Does anyone know if 12v 400 amp circuit breakers exist and where to get them? I've got a 300a breaker on the main 2/0 power wire coming from the alternator and front battery then going back to 5 Deka group 31 batts. At about 2/3 power with music, the breaker kicks. And for those who are curious, I'm running 6 BTL 15's on 6 SAZ-3500D's. DB

im running a power acoustik 3000 watt mono amp. i'm using 4awg pwr cable and ground. stock alt. i just pulled out my 2 12" power acoustik mofos that i was running and put in a fully loaded 18" fi btl. well anyways when i first hooked everything up it was working fine for 5 mins. then i started blowing fuses in the power cable. i checked everything for shorts, and if anything was grounding out. everything seems fine. even if i dont connect the sub to the amp the fuse still blows. whats causing this? is it because i need thicker power and ground cable?

I surveyed all the quality amps thats in my $, to run my focal 165v1 and havent decide for the subs maybe a single RF 12" P1 or 12" Kicker comp both in 1.25cu.in sealed box atomic 50.4 2001 lightning bolt 300.4 zenon 80.4 formula x 1600 4ch amp forgot the specs or should i get focal solution 25 A1 will it give better sound quality?? currentlu using a very old amp infedility 800.4 pure class A, if i change to any of these amplifiers will it dramatically improve my SQ? Make it louder and cleaner