Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have 2 Kinetik HC 2000's in my tahoe which is broken down for the time being. Fuel pump took a dump and its in-tank. not to mention i was just layed off from work.. its going to be sitting for a little while. Do i have anything to worry about, will the battery's be fine? ... im only asking this because im pretty sure ive read about this somewhere else but have nothing solid to go on.. i mean if they go dead i charge em.. right? lol. Just unsure and could use some clarification.

it got very cold around here and like many others i just bought two new batteries for my truck, these are just factory but AGM upgraded. now in an audio system lets assume i have enough wiring to transmit power with negligible losses from under hood to back seat. if i have two batteries at 1150CCA up front and put an older battery in back on the amp rack (say a 900CCA agm) will i run into issues with having a less than new battery back there? lets say the battery tests out at 80% of its rated cca (so still a decently good battery i think), when the amps pull power will it have a similar effect as a cap can have in that the alternator is now trying to charge the batter…

Does anyone have an opinion/experience with these new Soundstream PCA100d or PCA1500d or PCA2000d? Will they hit their numbers? Are they worth 250-350? Thanks all

Hooking up a second battery is something I've never done. Do I run a wire from the starter battery to the secondary battery. Or do i run a wire from my alternator to the secondary battery. What kind of fuse do I use? More than 1 on each end? Thanks

If anyone has pics of the CV EXL400.4 guts please post them or send me a pm I want to buy a broken one and would like to see gut pics before spending money.

ight whats up guys. so im gearing up for slamology this weekend and want my aq3500 and hccas to be at the top of there game lol. so i did some trading around with some stuff i had and i picked up 2 new C&D ups12-270fr (75ah a piece) deep cycle batteris. now i also got a nice spool of xs 0 gauge flex and am doing a second run of 0 gauge to the back. so my quesion's are ... 1. when i have two runs of 0 gauge to the back and hook up the batteries, do i put both runs of 0 gauge to one batteru and them connect that battery to the other, or should i put one run of wire to each battery? 2. i have 1 fuse from my alt. to my battery, and one fuse on each run of 0 gauge to the r…

my pioneer flip out had all of the preouts go out. I am looking for a nice headunit in the 300 dollar range. video is not necessary, but would be nice. I have a couple choices. I really like the eclipse cd-5000. I will not buy another pioneer. my other choice is a jvc kd-avx11 with a clarion eq to bump the preouts to 7volts. what would you guys do? I need higher voltage preouts and something that will sound good and last. I am going more for spl.

I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS High Fidelity head unit. I was thinking about getting a processor. Since I have never owned any type of sound processor. my question is. Am I going to put this thing in line with my amps and make 19000db on the mic or will that 300$ investment barely be noticed?? My deck already has t/a, 16 band eq, 3 way active set up, I can adjust each individual speaker for gain and eq, so what will a processor do for me. is it really worth the money?

Hey guys quick easy question, my vehicle is set for a 24f battery, and I was look at xs batteries but they do not have one and said to just use their size 34. However it is slightly smaller so does anyone have any recommendations for a 24f sized battery? Or should I just go with a 34 xs?

Ok i have a bad clippin problem. I think its my rcas because they have always sucked. What are.some good rcas i can get. i dont care about price. And what some good speaker wire i can get i have scoche 12 gauge power wire which i do NOT trust. And im having bad voltage.drop im running stock electrical with 1 gauge welding wire.

I just built a box for my new fully loaded Fi BL 15. Specs: H:18" W:17.5" L:38".....Square port length: 4.5" Port length 2: 20.75"...with 3/4 MDF. Box is tuned to 33.14hz and the Box volume is 3.822cuft. Sound good? will it work?

Good Afternoon everybody, Ive read threads saying "If you don't have a great sub box you're subs aren't working to their finest." So with that I need a custom box for my 2002 Avalanche rated to spec for (2) 15' V2 Nightshades *when they're available*. What the best Tuning Frequency should it be set at? Should it be Ported/Vented,4th order bandpassed, or T-lined? I still want to use the back every once and a while to carry shit so should the part of the box extended into the bed be sprayed with bedliner or fiberglassed to keep the elements out of the box. And who can you all recommend for the box build to ship it to Miami? My setup "all in boxes ready to install" is a Pio…

(System: Orion Cobalt 3500.1 w/ Soundqubed HDS 15" 1200RMS Sub & Stinger 80Amp isolator) Hey y'all, I ain't been on for bit cuz 99% of my system build/install's done, just few small tweaks, but bout to be all finished after installing 2nd batt. & Isolator to hopefully help some dimming & other small electrical anomalies...but, I found myself unfortunately participating in a YouTube comment section debate & began to 2nd guess my choice of isolator size. A YouTuber said his 40Amp isolator did great w/his 2000W amp set up, when a "keyboard cowboy"/YouTube troll stated, "this is impossible cuz watts come from volts x amps & 12x40 is 480 not 2000" I al…

Well the price finally went down far enough!!!! $299 from cartoys with warranty!!! Picking it up tonight. Then turning around and selling the 8052 for $150 Pics either tonight or tomorrow. What can I say, this is the HU I have wanted forever

I read around a bit and read a whole thread in here and went out and bought 35 feet of 3/0 for my car. This stuffs freakin huge. It looks like a black garden hose and makes my stinger expert look like a spaghetti noodle :-(

im looking for a amp around $300.00 shipped its for 2-12a in a ported box 3.5cuft @30hz jamie

hi, i am wondering is doing the big 3 in 4 guage enough for a 2400 rms system? i know using a thicker wire is better but i would like to use stock type connects and the biggest side terninal battery wire is 4 guage that i can find unless i can find like 2 guage then i might be stuck using 4 guage.

what type of fuse should i use for the amp to battery power wire (in an inline fuse holder from knuknoceptz). if this helps...the wire is 1/0 gauge, the amp is an saz 1500d, sub is going to be a bl15.

a dude just brought a 'KingWood CDW-2-800' for me to check out...what can someone tell me bout this thing b4 i put it into my car...

I'm in the process of trying to decide between these 2 amps : MTX TE1501D Elite $339 USAMPS MD-2D $319 The car will be a daily driver. The subwoofer will be : RE AUDIO 15" SEX -or- RE AUDIO 15" SX I've heard the MD-2D isnt very clean, but I do love USAMPS from my expierence in the past they are GREAT amps, but for my pricerange these are the 2 amps im looking at. I have no expierence with MTX, so I ask you what is a better amp? What are the Pros and Cons of both. Also would a MD-2N be overkill for a 15" RE SXX? Would an MD-1DN do the job?

I have an Orion 2500d and 2 Rl-p 15s ported to 31 hz in 5 cubes. Its really loud, but it seems like the subs arent really working that hard/moving that far. Like when I play low notes like Lil Scrappy "No Problems" my whole car shakes but when I watch the subs they barely move. I am running a stock alternator and I think that is a big problem because my amp isnt putting out anywhere near full power. Would a 160 amp alt. be enough or should I save for a 200 or 220 amp alt. I think Im going deaf too. How much improvement am I going to see with an alt.?

I have an 86 crown vic with a kicker 300 watt amp powering an IA 187 15. When i have the volume or bass up i get some very noticable dimming from my interior and exterior lights. I think the stock alternator is only a sixty five amp. What i want to know is will this up grade help my dimming, and what exactly is it. I know its replacing wires with larger wire, but what wires should be replaced and how big should i go. I tried using the search feature but i guess its idiot proof.

First, a little about my setup. I want to run a 4 channel amp on my front stage, a two channel on rear fill, and 2 sub amps. This means I need 4 sets of preamp outs right? One set for front tweets, one set for front mids, one set for rear full range, and one set for sub amps. I want to be able to cross over the front mids and tweets at different points, in case I change components. I feel it sounds better if this is done at the HU so the amplifier can concentrate power only on desired frequencys. I will only use the preamps, so internal amp isn't necessary, infact I'd prefer NO internal amplifier. Only need CD capability, no MP3, no DVD. Some sort of time alignment. …

i was hoping M5 (or someone else) might know of a place locally that does a mix of electrical work. i had a customer drop off a large LED sign board that runs off 220V mains with seriesed 110V inverters into about 88 separate micro controller boards that run off 24/12/5.6V and control small segments of RGB led's. the panel blows breakers upon power up. its beyond the scope of work that we do at my shop and wanted to give the customer and idea of maybe where to go.

will my alternator be able to upkeep a semi truck battery? getting one soon so i need to know. thanks. al