Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have an amp with the following specs: 2 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms 2 x 150 Watts Max at 4 Ohms 1 x 300 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged 2 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms Electronic Crossover Network Bass Boost Circuit 2 Ohm Stereo Stable Tri-Mode Capable Gold RCA Inputs Power & Protection LED Indicators Advanced Protection Circuitry Soft Turn On/Off VU Meter Thermometer Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz S/N Ratio: 90 dB I know its not the best of specs in the world, but it is all I have right now so I want to make this work. I got a TC-1000 12" DVC 4ohm, so if I bridge the amp that is a 2ohm load on the amp. My amp says its only 2ohm Stereo stable, so I was thinking…

anyone know how much one of these will cost?

would running dbl power and ground wire to my aq3500 help me in anyway or is this just a waste of money? I saw someone else do this to his aq3500 and also I see some other amps already have the dual inputs. How about dbl up on power and ground on your batteries bank in the back does this help any? I'm just tring to get the max out of my aq3500 before I decide to upgrade or not.

last time i hooked it up the blue light indicator is on,but i was wondering why it does not power my re adio mx 12 sub.i have it wired in one ohm i can barely hear the sub pound. I called us amps and the guys said that iteh amp needs a 200 plus amp alternator and two batteries to power up the amp the right way.Is it true? He said that a stock alternator wont even power teh amp at all.IThanks for your help guys.

been a lurker here for a while, but I finally got around to ordering up a ICON 10 and hooked it up to my existing kicker 1000.1 amp. Never had a problem with my amp on my 12 jlw6v2. got it all installed and set the gains pretty low. played some music and slowly turned the gains up till it sounded pretty good which wasnt even half way up on the gains. Now after playing music for a few minutes the sub is playing... The sub cuts out, but the amp isnt showing me its in protect mode. So i turn the gains back down and its still doing it. now after playin with it for a couple weeks I just left the gains down and kept using it. But i've noticed that when I first get in the truck…

im desperately trying to find an amp for my 15" BTL dual 2. Its got the 3rd mag, himax coil, and cooling. its in a nice box, look at my sig for the specs on it. I also have an upgraded electrical system including a 160 amp HO alt, kinetic 2400 & kinetic 1400, big 3, and all my wiring is 0 AWG. I also have a voltage stabilizer connected to my electrical system. has any one ever had any experiences or comments on the Sound Stream PCA3500D PICASSO? Is it a good amp, it says its rated at 3500 RMS at 1 ohm. What do you think ill actually be getting with my upgraded electrical system. thanks -wes

I was wondering if I should get an outside crossover and eq or combination of them for my truck, I am using the active crossover on my H/U clarion dxz-785usb, it has Digital time alignment on it and 18 db slope 3 way crossover in the deck. I am running my front channel to my tweets @ 3500 hz then running my dual 5.25 in the door of the rear channel ran @ 90hz and up then sub channel @ 90hz and below Would I improve my SQ buy adding and eq/crossover to the mix or is the head unit alone good enough. It sounds good now, just wish I had a little more control over the freq.

Still looking for a 4 channel amp to run an active setup in my friends car. Planning on running SEAS 27TFFNC Tweet and CA18RNX. I saw these amps and thought I should get some opinions from you guys. Here they are. Soundstream TRA960.4 MB Q RAB 450 PP A600/4 All of these amps are around $250 -325 and is the budget for amps as of now. Are there any other choices that would be better in this price range?

How are they as far as doing rated power and being musical or are they just a ground pounder amp. I am particularly looking at the VLX 1de and 2de. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.

ANyone know any dealers or online distributors that are authorized that I can get in touch with? Their website doesn't have all the info I need. Thanks!

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.

looking to put a clean sounding (sq) system in a nissan senta. I do not want to upgrade the alternator. Any on a amplifier suggestions in the $500 range. if it costs a little more that is fine also.

I bought a usa-425 from Ryan, the amp looks great and everything, but when hooked up...... nothing. Im thinking its the preouts on my headunit. What is the best way to test this theory out? Besides hooking the amp up to another headunit? Also, if it is the preouts anyone know how these are fixed, if at all? Thanks

hi, a freind has given me his set of alpine type r componots but one has a blown midbass driver. now i am wondering is there anyway that i can find out what the highpass and lowpass is set at? they are the newer ones that have an 110 rms rating

so i have a us amps md1d amp hooked to a ten inch re audio sx. i had it wired to one ohm and a guy that i was talking to said i was probably pushing closer to 1400 watts instead of 1200 watts at 14 volts. is this true?

Hey guys... It's me again... This time wondering if I should pick this one up... Can get the JL Audio 300/2 for about $175.. I would be using it for my front stage... I would also like to get some recommendations for the front stage.... I will be removing the rear deck speakers to make subwoofer sound easier to travel into the cabin... Should I pull the trigger or are there other options out there? I have 4 amps that interest me and are within a reasonable price range... I don't think I want to be that close to the $300 mark... So help me out again guys... I just threw a reference Soundstream in there, although I know its over my apparent budget...lol

i'm curious as to weather this amp would be safe to run at in a one ohm setup. the seller... of course says it is. but i'm not to sure

This May sound simple to some but wanted some clarification. I am installing two batteries in my trunk. How they will have to be installed will require me to put about a five foot piece of wire between the positive connections. I will be fusing before first battery where it entered trunk location and fusing after second battery before amp connection. My question is should I install fusing after the first battery and then install a second fuse before it connects to the second battery or will one fuse between them be sufficient?

Hi SSA Members, Im looking to do a single battery in the trunk of my 1997 chevy cavalier, i will be running a single aq3500 with a single 12" Fi Audio BTL. now i already have a high output alternator that does 200 amps max and 90-100 at idle. and i have a battery up front (yellow top) that will go away so i conform to the rules of DB drag of a single 650 cu inch battery. now all i need is the battery. The only one ive seen so far that i think meets the rule is the Kinetic HC2000. But im not an electrical mastermind and quite frankly i have no idea how to get a good electrical system going. so i need a battery, and maybe some hints as to how to do the single battery in …

I had blown one of my subs a few months ago so I unhooked everything and removed from vehicle. After doing some upgrades and getting new subs in, I finally reinstalled them yesterday. The problem I've ran into is that the amps aren't producing any sound. They power up and show that there on, but no sound. What voltage should the remote wire show? This is the only thing I can think of to check. I will say though that when I had a sub blow it blew the fuse between batteries and the amps where underpowered for awhile. Could this have caused internal problems? All help needed fast!!!

Amplifiers | 01 | 02 |ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB) Phase Shift: 0-180? Amplifiers ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB)…

So I have a Alpine ute52bt that is cutting out whwn I turn it up. I first thought it was a connection So it was checked. Tried to move the ground from factory to bear metal to battery and it still cuts out once I start to turn up the volume. do you guys have any other ideas? Sorry for the short post. My set up is the deck listed. A pair of i65c and a pair of infinitys in the rear. Nothing follows.

'06 Alpine HUs better than '05? Spec wise they look a lot worse.

im looking to do the big 3 in my truck. i was wondering if i could do this in 4awg instead of 1/0 since all im running is the setup in my sig and not even 1000 watts. i have no plans of upgrading in the near future, so i figure why not. im gonna be using knu for the wire, and their 4awg is a lot cheaper per foot then the 1/0. also, i have everything i need for my sub and amp and everything, except speaker wire. i was also looking at knu for this. i was wondering what you guys which speaker wire from them, and which gauge you guys would recommend. if you guys could give me some links that would be awesome. THANKS! for any info you guys can give.

My first question when you change the bass level, middle level and treble level it controls all speakers including the ones on the amp? The levels go from -8 to 8, right now I have the bass at -6 (usually its at -8), the middle at 4 and the treble at 8. How do you tailor made these settings. My second question is the bass level has a Bass F(40-120hz, I keep it at 40hz), Bass Q(1.00-2.00, I keep it at 2.00) and Bass Extend (off/on, I keep it on). Could anybody explain what these settings should be around or what they mean (I know bass F is frequency) or if I should even mess with them? My third question is the middle level has a Middle F (500-2,000hz, I keep it at 500hz ),…