Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

IM TRYIN TO REPAIR MY 1000 WATT CRUNCH AMP AND I CANT FIND A PIC OF THE INSIDE GUTS OF THIS DAMN THING IVE LOOKED EVERY WHERE SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT A FEW OF THE DIODS I THONK THERE CALLED FRIED SO I NEED TO REPAIR IF ITS POSSABLE IM NEW TO ALL THIS SO I WOULD LIKE SOME IMPUT THANK YOU OR MAYBE A SCHMATIC ON THIS THING WOULD KICK ASS

So, I'm currently in the process of setting my gains for my 4 channel amp and mono amp. I've been researching on how to properly set your gains using a digital multimeter, and it seems like every forum and website tells you a different way to do it. The SSA forum stood out to me and made the most sense about gain setting, but it still left me with a few questions. My first question is should i set my gains for the 4 channel amp first or the mono, or does it even matter? When i set my gains for the 4 channel amp i will be using a 0 dB 1000Hz test tone, but what i'm not sure of is what settings should i use for my head unit? A lot of people say to set everything to 0. I'm …

my question is im buying 2 fully loaded 12" fi btl's i was wondering if the sundown SAZ-3000d would be enuff power for both of the subs or should i get 2 straped i was only looking to get exactly the rms watts or close as possible or really just enuff power to make them hit nice so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

hi, im new to this whole forum thing but i need some help. i recently purchased 2 15" incriminator lethal injections and have them powered by a hifonics 1600 watt amp right now, im wanting an upgrade on my amp and extra battery and need some help on making a choice.......my 2 choices are the sundown saz-1500d or the rockford t1500-1bd......i also need an extra battery but dont know what brand....please help me out if you can....also would like to hear of any other amplifier options you may have. thanks

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model

Alrighty soo I'm looking to finaly get my own amp for my beastly little sub, the oem tc10 from tc sounds. Its a dual 4ohm sub. RMS power is 800 watts but is said to be able to take alot more power than that with a smile. Right now shes being powered by a RF amp that I'm borrowing from my buddy. I guess its rated at like 750watts. It works, but with the power turned all the way up, my sub is beggin for more. I'm not looking to break my bank, but I'm definately not looking for something walmart would cary either. I dont know much about what are good amps now adays, but a couple I've been looking at are the PG RSD1200.1 and the alpine mrd-m1005. What are some other opt…

it was sounding to good to be true. didn't know if these amps are ok. wanting to put it on 2 l7 kicker 15. thanks. saw it on on line car stereo.com

hey guys i have a couple questions regarding my mids/highs amplifier. i have a kicker zx 350.4 its the 06zx 350.4 model , this one http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6748_Kicker-ZX350.4.html#tabs i bought it used for $100. it was in excellent condition. only had it for a little over a month. this amp was a beast! my mids and highs were very loud when i first had this hooked up!! but now, my mids and highs seemed to have gotten quieter... my bass is still loud. to check, i unplugged my bass amp so i can just hear my mids and highs and experimented. id have to get to volume 45 on my headunit to make it sound like it did when it was at volume 28 when i first had the am…

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d (NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery. I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened. It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again an…

i just bought a crossfire vr-2000d that was apparently modded to handle high voltages and .5 ohm loads. well, today i hooked it up just to see if it worked, and to my dismay, it wasnt as loud turned up 2/3 of the way as my nine.1 was at 2/3. this amp should do more than twice the power of the nine.1 so im a little confused. it does play, bass sounds fine, its just not loud. i have both power supplies hooked up, a 1/0 gauge from my battery going back to a dist. block into 2 4 gauge wires, and just 2 4 gauges at the back grounding the power supplies. my electrical system is very solid, and both power supplies are getting 14.5 volts. the remote wires are both getting about 1…

Okay, so I want to upgrade my underhood battery, obviously. I was thinking about snagging up a smaller, cheaperish XS power batt for now, but I've heard that you need to run the exact battery you have up front, in the back. It had to do something with the batteries charging wrong or something, I don't know, ha. My real question is, could I pick up a smaller high quality batter for up front, and pick up a larger one for the back and be safe?

So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and…

I have done a few searches and have come up empty. Does anyone on this forum have and experience with this? I know it has been done several times before. To be more specific I want to use just the screen from the i-pad 3 as a monitor. If anyone has done something similar before please share some of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks.

So basically I put the ground wire in the power input and power wire and the ground input, now my amp won't turn on, fuck me. All I wanna know is what did I fuck up or possibly fuck up? Thanks for your help..

Well Me and the wife are moved into the house and I am happy with my new job---$5500 a month ain't bad . Hope everything is good with all the old school guys here. need anything just ask----i will try to be here more. Dave Edwards

OK! My HU got jack a couple week ago and i've been looking to buy a new one. my budget is about $350.I ownly listen to CD's and MP3's which do you guy suggest http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=16945 or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18480 I'm really into SQ Thanks for the help!!!

I can not create a topic in section "For sale/Wantid" (No 25 Posts). I'm looking Clarion DXZ785USB. Delivery in Russia. Where agreement is reached 100% advance payment through PayPal. Please send offers with photos on my mail - [email protected].

i think i want the visonik 4000, if i can still find it for like 400 or less... other than that idk.. what amp can i buy that at least gives me 2000 to each sub? or somehwere arround thier., for around 400$ all the nice amps are like 2000 x1.... but i want a 4000x1 or something around thier lol,

I own a 2003 sunfire which currently has a 105amp alternator. I was looking to run about 1300rms off it, but I know the alternator isn't big enough. The problem I'm having is that I can't find anyone who builds a high output alternator for my car, and I looked into getting it rebuilt, but I can't do that either. I don't know what to do. Are there any specialists for problems like this, or am I screwed?

No higher end, high output alternator manufacturers make a alt to fit my car even trying to retrofit isn't possible. I do have a 220 from powerbastards that utilizes a stock casing and after a month my battery light started coming on. But I think I have some good news. After taking it to a specialist It does 220 like PB says but the voltage regulator went bad but everything else is working fine and he'll replace the regulator and says there shouldn't be a problem anymore in fact the build (constuction) of the alt was good even the ratio of windings (voltage) vs diameter (current/amps) was ideal. The one issue with the regulator was amp draw between the rotor and what the …

I'm runing two ia 21 dp's I am trying to figure out what amp to go with a incriminator audio 40.1 or a Memphis 4kw if any one can help with the pros and cons of both please and thank you

which of these would be the best suitable for a daily driver setup at 14.4volts & 1 ohm? Which would be the best overall in terms of efficiency, power output, reliability, and current consumption? thanks

I have a IA 6.4 that worked fine before i took it out of the vehicle i sold. Sat up for 2 years and connected it to power today. Now when it gets power it goes straight into protect and makes a clicking noise. Anyone have this problem before??

I was wondering if the IA20.1 is underrated? Looking to get one to power my DD9515 d2 subwoofer. Also, does anyone have one they would like to sell?

I just switched out my old Kenwood subs and 500 watt amp for 2 12 in icons and a bc2k and there is almost no output from the subs. I didn't change any settings on the head unit and I double checked the wiring they are wired to 4 ohm so I should see 700 watts. The amp is on and not in protect. The bass is so quiet that the factory speakers are louder. Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong?