Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i have a m1d1 usamps amp. it says its a mono amp so does that mean i can only run one sub off of it cause the way it looks it has a pace for two. and if i can run two will they be getting the same power if wired up the same. say if i wire it to one ohm will they both be getting 1200 watts?

ok well i dont know if this is exactly where im supposed to put this topic, so correct me if i'm wrong. I'm looking to start making some stuff for my dorm room next year, and i was wondering, what some good brands of amplifiers that are out today in the home audio spectrum. i mean power amplifiers, for subs and such, and also some other good 4-8 channel amplifiers for speakers. I assume i can just use a home theater receiver for the speakers and such, but as for the power amplifiers, im lost thus far. What are some brands that you all like, that y'all recommend. ive been looking at some Crown, but i dont know. My dad has meridian, but thats out of my price range for s…

i finally got my subs hook up and my monoblock going....so i know most of you have your gains set at a quarter and so thats what i did at FIRST. The dmm gain settings way wasnt working for some reason it kept reading the same numbers with the music going and the music off. Anyways i left the gains at a quarter for now and listened to it and i couldnt even feel the subs at high volume so i turned it up to half just to see the difference and then right as you get to half this HUGE rumbling comes from my subs and its constant even if the music is on pause...and this did happen but not as loud when i had my other amp at 4ohms.can someone pls help me with this?? here was a cou…

Kinda in a jam here guys. My Clarion HU has took a shit on me. I cant turn my volume up to test before it blinks, cuts off, and shuts everything down. After it resets it come right back on and it plays fine at a moderate to a quite loud level, but it's cutting off on me before I can get it to full volume. I need some opinions on a new one. What I want is a Pioneer 880PRS, but I don't have time to wait around on a used one to show up. I need one now even if that means finding one that does what I need and keeping my eyes peeled for something better. The options I need are unfortunately becoming obsolete and giving way to DVD, navigation, blue ticks and all that shit. I do…

Okay guys i ran into a problem, i called DC Power and they said they DO NOT have a dual alternator kit for me and without one i WILL have major voltage drop. (I TOLD THEM MY SYSTEM HAS 10,000 WATTS ~ rough estimate) I DO NOT want to drop really low because this system will be a DAILY DRIVER, so i will be playing a lot and i don't want to limit the usage or anything of the sort because of voltage drop. The biggest alternator DC Power had for me is a 320 Amp w/ 180 idle. (I'd really like to go with this company) The Sub Stage; (2) 15" AA SMDs (3500W power handling ~per sub) (2) AQ3500D.1 (1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1 ~per amp) (4) XS P…

Just received my 4/0 cable from unknown source (Nope, not Welding supply). Anyways, did some measurements on dimensions and weight and thought some will find this information interesting. Used analog caliper and let it measure all following specs stress-free (i wasn't holding it) Knukonceptz Kolossus- OD jacket- 0.57" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.47" (rated on website as 0.472") Copper only wire. MAX LOAD rated on website- 375A @20ft (does not correspond to safe continuous use via NEC Standard which is to not allow voltage drop greater than 0.5v) Knukonceptz CCA- OD jacket- 0.60" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.5" (rated on website as 0.47…

I ran new wires today, and installed the 9887. I tested the deck out with the passives, so the deck is fine. On active I seem to not be getting sound out of the tweeters. I have the deck set on "3-way" mode, which I think is correct. The manual says to run the tweeter wire to rear channel for me is 3 and 4. And I ran the mids to channel 1 and 2. I'm thinking it might be the "input channel" setting on the amplifier. I also shut the crossovers on the amp to Off. Input Channel Options: 1)"Setting this switch to

Well im almost done with my Bravox components install and I was wonderin, could I just hook those up to 2 of the channels and not use the rear. No bridging... just using the 2 channels alone. I just want to hear them before I install my rear. Thanks.

Looking around for a new head unit I've found that the majority of units from reputable companies (save alpine) dont have pause in their mid level units. Kenwood, Pioneer, Eclipse...none of them have pause in the $2-$300 range. My CD3434 doesnt have pause. Even sony units lack pause. Pioneer and Kenwood's lower units have pause and all of their highest units have pause...but in between it seems to be the companies think we dont like to pause our music or compeat... /rant

Hi 99 Oldsmobile Alero Yellow optima up front and one in the rear Powerbastards 220amp alt knu 1/0gauge (+ and -) front to back, big3 as of today. no fuses. problem persists Im getting a drop from 14.4 to as low as 13.2 when I bring the car to a stop Sometimes it stays at 14.4 when I stop but most of time it dont 13.2 is about as low as it gets, its random and sometimes doesnt drop at all I only get this reading from the rear battery I dont have any of my amps connected, no sound, still a drop The rear battery is grounded to the negative in the front I have also tried grounding the rear battery to the point under the seatbelt bolt that i have used before (no luck) The fr…

Hi Just want to know a few things that remain unclear to me. Since I do not plan on running 18s anymore, will only run 2 12s (XCON, ZCONS or maybe BTLs) with probably a Sundown 3500D. Should I bother using 2/0 gauge for power and ground? I was about to purchase Kolossus Fleks 0 ($100) kit but just want to make sure I wont be in the "border line" when it comes to powering my amp. Also, will the Kolossus Fleks 0 handle a Sundown 4500D? Just in case if I decide to upgrade to that in the future. Im reading here http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm that 0 gauge only handles a fuse up to 325 amps. That means with a voltage of 12.6 you get 4095 watts. Thats 500 watts short of the 4500…

I have a problem starting my car (Toyota Celica, 1.8l engine) at -20C / -4F using a HC800 as a starting battery, and I'm trying to find out if the battery is dying or if the efficiency of a HC800 at this temperature is so low that it actually has problems starting a 1.8l engine without being busted. My car don't have any stereo at the moment, the only thing unoriginal is the cd player and the battery under the hood. So what do you all believe, is the battery busted or is it alright? edit: I'm using the car for longer trips, minimum 30 min trips, so the alternator should charge it sufficiently.

going to have a set up between 1.5 and 2k wrms. stock alternator will be doing big 3 curently have a napa battery (5100R) 1998 Honda CRV wondering if i should go ahead and order a new battery with my sub and amp or just wait till its in? and what is going to be a better battery for under the hood, optima yellow top or the xs? or should i just keep the stock battery and run the yellow top in the trunk?

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…

Are there any amps being made presently that are not made in China or Korea, any just made in the good ole USA anymore??

My only request for this is that you have owned the unit. I dont think your favorite can truly be something you have never owned. You also must say why it was your favorite. Of the ones ive owned I must say that my favorite is the Eclipse CD8053. It was really easy to use for all of the things you could change and tweek. I think my only real complaint was the touch rotary knobs that caused me to go from volume 12 to 345524352 billion with what felt like one click of the wheel sometimes.

You may be wondering why I made this thread but us people need to know... Considering the hifonics brutus BRZ1200.1 is CEA appliant. Which one would be a better choice comparing to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? From what i know the BRZ-1200.1D is rated 900RMS at 2 ohm and 1200 at 1ohm and the sundown SAZ-1000.1D is rated 600@ 2ohm and 1000@1ohm. They both fall at the same price of 280$ shipped. But does the hifonics brutus. BRZ 1200.1D have a challange to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? HIFONICS - Brutus BRZ Amplifiers Sundown Audio - SAZ-1000D

I need some help on choosing what amp to run. i have no clue where to even start. im getting 2 12 fi BTL's in a blow through in an s10. just thought id ask for some advice

What's the difference between the wire? I need amp wire and wire for my big 3 .. I will be using knuconceptz and a Rockford fosgate punch 1000 watt

Memphis 16-XO3 ( i can get it refurbed off ebay for 90 bucks) http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3434 JBL GTX47 http://imezak.com/gtx47.html or JBL MX1000 http://imezak.com/mx1000.html the Memphis seems to have the best slopes (18db high, 24db low) but the GTX47 looks liek it would have more features. im leaning toward the memphis right now.

First off, i got this radio from my brother for finishing his basement so i have no actual booklet. i have downloaded the 177 page owners manual from Pioneer. i just installed the radio today in my 2004 Blazer and love it so far but... i am running component speakers and a subwoofer. i hooked it up like the manual told me to but i can't turn the sub off or fade it out. i turn it to the sub setting and try to turn it off and nothing happens, i still get bass. also, does anyone know where to get the microphone so i can time align the system? i'm going to be running the tweeters and mids active soon but i don't want to try and deal with that if i don't have the right tools…

http://www.millionbuy.com/pakov22600.html how is that amp? does it make the power it says? I need to run 4 aa 8's at about 300 watts per sub and would like a little more power to have

I know Audison is a "good" name; can anybody say anything bad about them?

hey guys my buddy is trying to decide between a Rockford T-1500 or Sundown SAZ-1500. i know this website praises the Sundown's, but WHY is it better then the Rockford? he said his budget is whatever it needs to be. he is running a pair of 15in IA Lethal Injections. he has them in his Jeep Wrangler. his electrical is all stock, but he is also in the process of getting a battery. Thanks guys.

I need to get 2 12v fans (one in, one out) for my enclosed amprack, but I'm a little confused as to which to get. Some have 3 wires coming out of them, some have 4. My amps already have outputs to power up external fans, which consists of a positive and negative (http://www.dls.se/images/highres/A5_F.jpg). So I'm just wondering which fans you guys have used and which you liked. Thanks yall.