Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Let me know please, also if i can buy it less on wholesale...thanks

I now run a PPI DCX 1000.1 running 2 IDQv3 subs. A shop in town has had this US amp MD23 sitting on the shelf for a few years now never been used and has marked it way down. Comparing the specs it seems like the US amp would be better for SQ but it is an A/B so the PPI is probably more efficient. PPI S/N 80%, US amp S/N 105%, PPI damping 50, US amp damping 600. I also like the fact that I can run my subs at 2ohms instead of 1 ohm. Anyways this is something I don't have to do but it would be nice to try something new. I don't want the US amp if it's going to drain my electrical system real bad. Any input would be greatly appreciated

when i have the motor running, & i turn off the system the Planet Audio TT850d makes a pop through the subs !!! ??? i sent it in to get it fixxed and they said they swapped out the board and sent it back so i hook it up and it lasted for about 1 day befor it started the POP thing agine.... so iv tried different amps and NONE of them POP when i turn off the system i.e. ( PPi / JL Audio / Mtx / Hifonics ) !!! any one have a clue as to why the PA Amp pops @ shut down ??? iv tried different ground locations, re-ran the remote w/ new wire, re-grounded the Kenwood & Kove, cant seem to get the amp to quit making a pop when i turn it off.... oh ya it does NOT pop if th…

has any 1 Sean a berth sheet from a zx1000.1 what was its top rms and @ how many volt's. And are they 1ohm stable

Hey there guys i just had a quick question. Right now in my car i have a ssa zcon 15' d2 running off a sundown 2500@1ohm. I just wanted to know if its possible to run the zcon off the sundown @4ohms since the efficency is better and i am happy with 600rms since i will be buying a new car and i want less power but keeping the same equipment since i dont wanna sell/rebuy etc.

Hey everyone. Does anyone have a good used amp for sale? Mono block 2ohm between 500 & 1000 rms watts.

Am I able to use a DMM to see if the rear channel on my 4 channel amp is working? I've wired it several different ways and i've yet to get anything from the rear side. I'm assuming that there wouldn't be a reading if the channel wasn't working, but I really don't have a clue.

What do you guys think about this stuff, not looking to spend a whole lot, just need to wire up my subs, but i dont want any problems in the future with it http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1631_25-ft.-of-OFC-12-Gauge-Speaker-Wire.html You guys think this stuff will do the job for just wiring up my subs in the box?

for 4 sa8's d4's so i csn run 2 ohm or .5ohm nominal..... ive got a dc 270xp alt and 2 discovery dt12-4000 agm g31 batterys. was thinking a saz2500 @ .5 nominal

So i recently bought a pioneer avic n4 and i hooked it all up and all the unit does is open up with a black screen and when car is the screen will go down...there is no illumination or nothing...although i do here the headunit making some noises....so i know its working...and i have tried a new 30 pin plug and that didnt help.

I have 2 t2500-1bdcp's that I would like to strap together to run 1 smd 15" subwoofer. I haven't bought the sub yet because I don't know how to wire it to 1 ohm per amp. if anyone could tell me how to strap these amps together and wire the sub that would great.

I'm torn between the following choices in amplifiers... JL 300/2 Audison LRx 2.250 ARC Audio 2100CXL Linear Power 2.2hv PPI ART A600 I have been told that my Koda's will take full range..but that's just not floating my boat at this moment..probably cross them at 60ish..so Out with the LP and PPI... Someone either suggest something new..or help me make up my mind. The only difference with the other 3 is price. With my budget...the ARC and JL will have to be used, while I have a chance to get the Audison at a great price. Last real difference between the 3 is crossover ability...the JL has 12/24db selectable, while the Audison and ARC have only 12db. I guess the real ques…

Alright, so i own a PG Ti. 500.4 and my speakers will randomly seem to cut in and out. All of a sudden only 1 speaker in my car will be working, and at other times all 4 will work. Now i went back and checked my amp, it seems that the aux inputs are the problem. When i wiggle them around a bit, unplug them and plug them back in they all work. They will work for like a week and then start cutting out again. I actually ended up taking the cover off and looking at the solder points on the amp where the inputs are and they seem to be fine. Should i just like... tape the wires in place so that they dont move? Idk what else to do.

Well I currently have the Hifonics 1606D, but am considering getting something else all ready. Powerbass specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5469 Hifonics specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3804 Soundstream specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3194 Sub is Fi 12" Fi BL (D2, Cooling, Flatwind, Daily) Looking for something around $300.

Im sorry to waste your guy's time with this one.. im about 99.99% of the answer but I have to ask. I got my order from knukonceptz yesterday, i had ordered 2 of their ANL fuse holders with 2 250A fuses. They sent me 300A fuses. clearly their mistake after checking the confirmation email. Ive been told to fuse to your wire. the wire i have is the KLMX KnuKonceptz wire which states loads up to 250A .. these 2 fuses were meant to go in between 2 batteries (kinetik hc2000 and hc1800) I have the proper fuses for everything else just these 2 that are a little higher than i asked for. Do i gotta go spend the $10 or so and get the right fuses? or even worse wait for knu to send m…

Well I have built a box for my btl that is 4.8 cubes tuned to 33 hz and the btl should be here any day now....i have a T10001bd but its sold because i know i need more than that for the btl....so i have about 400$ to spend....what is the best amp or amps for that price to push THE btl the best....or if there is one amp that in the long run i can get 2 one for each 2ohm coil....you know get one now and one later....what is yalls op.....thanks Edit....its fully loaded forgot to add that...p-cham,xmax,trip mag shoulda got the dual 1 but oh well lol

the input voltage on this amp is .25 to 2.5 my head unit has 4 volt pre-outs. Will this cause a problem?

755.6 on SD

i recently was helping a friend install an aftermarket headunit in an 02 grand am and the new unit wont turn on. so i put the factory unit back and it didnt turn on. what has happened here? i normally install headunits on older cars and i never ran into this problem. any ideas on how to fix? i believe its the security but i dont know how to fix the problem

eclipse cd7200 mk2 any good feed back? application is loud demo car. or it's just an sq head unit? thanks comments appreciated

I'm needing to order these in time for my brother and it say's for a s-10 but will it fit a s-10 blazer thanks a bunch, Dover. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

Well im having a hard time making a decision on what to purchase i could use some help im looking to spend around 500 and will either be powering a revo or axis not quite sure yet all opinions appreciated so far ive looked at a few amps a t2000, powerbass 3000, xxv thor, xxv collosus, and the new ia 20.1

anybody own this amp? what do you think about it? i was told it will not do what it says, has anybody put an o scope on one ? im going to put it on one fully loaded fi btl 15, if it has enough power i would like to put two on it any suggestions?

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 vol…

i have a 2003 LincolTC, my system is a Soundqubed HDS315-D2 1200RMS powered by an Orion cobalt 2500.1D 1ohm stable amp, which is what i have it wired to. Ive only got 4ga 100% OFC, not that cheap oxidizing CCA junk, ran as power & ground which Im sure you'll all say thats too low ga. of wire which i already know & agree on that fact, just my financial circumstances are unable to afford me the luxuries of a larger ga considering I already owned the 4ga wire i used lol & considering the 15'+ of 0/1 or 0/2 ga OFC i would need for the length of my boat of a car i am just going to stick it out w/ what i got for now cuz i wont run that cheap cca crap. so an…