Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i have a problem guys when ever i turn my mmats pro audio 1500.1 amp on it says protect and wont come out of protect mode i have no subs hooked up so i dont know what it could poosibly be?? any clue???

I have tried to read as much as possible to educate my self on the power needed to feed my 1000 watt peak system. It seems like the wisest first step would be to upgrade my alternator, then add a second deep cycle battery with a high ah rating and enough amps to supply the power. I have searched for high amp alternators for my 1991 omc ford 2.3 liter ford engine but I am told they dont exist. One person sugested haveing it worked on by a alternator shop and having them install a higher output kit . I would love to have a separate battery or two that I charge in between boat trips dedicated specificlly for the audio and leave the boat operating system alone. TO play my sys…

I am installing a Jensen MCD 6115, and two Jensen power 760 amps in my boat. The reciever has output of 200 watts ( 50 x 4 ). After I hook up amps through rca preamps at reciever does that reciever 200 watts transfer through the amp? or can I still use those reciever speaker leads for 50 x 4?

Does the SAZ-3000 accept a hifonics remote gain knob cord? If not then where can I get one? any place like Fry's or radio shack have them? or adapters?

what is a good head unit (preferably JVC or Alpine) that will not skip because of the bass? i have a alpine cda7897 now and i cant turn my music up without the cd skipping repeatedly. really wouldnt want to spend more than 400 for a h/u. its going to a lincoln towncar and i am running a zx2500.1, zx650.4 and (2) 15" btl's

I got one..dont have manual and its several years old...not sure how the input section is setup any idea? it has switch for 2 or 4 or 5 channel discrete

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

i have been trying to set my amps but am not getting a good reading im always getting 2. some odd volts then when i turn gain up i get OL. i was thinking since my amp is a pg xenon 600.1 that i would not be able to set it because the amp detects the ohms while the speakers are hooked up, i think thats how it works.

I tried to ground my rca today because i have really bad engine noise, but it didnt work. I took speaker wire and touched it to the rca. (the outside metal part) then touched it to metal in my car, but the noise was still there. Am i doing it wrong? Could it be something else?

does anyone have any experience with this unit ? ... can it do damage to anything in my car as it regulates the charge of your alternator to around 15.2 volts ... how easy of an install is it?

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

Not finding much online about this but wanted to know if u can run a Stetson 10K under 1 ohm (0.67) for daily?

So my amp outputs 3500watts, but its fuses are only 3X30amp so 90 amps which is what 900 watt rms or something around that???? so whats gonna happen if i set it higher then what the fuses can take. I really want to set them higher since i got the bad boy 18 Fi BL.

Okay guys so I got a 2008 ford escape and right Now I'm running two 12" Pioneer Premier TS-W3001D4 in a sealed enclosure. They are powered by a crunch 1500.1 mono amp. I am most like going to be selling the amp for around $150. So my budget will be around $250-$300. These subs do 1000rms a piece so I'm looking for around 1500-2000 rms. I am aware that I will have to upgrade to 1/0 gauge everything and prob get a capacitor but I'm willing to deal. I have been lookin at some hifonics amps that do around 1700 rms at 2 ohms and they are around 300 on some sites. But as always I appreciate any and all suggestions thanks, Nick

So can u guys tell me which head units u think are better sound quality wise and features. I'm goin to get either a pioneer premier or kenwood excelon and idk whch one to get. My friends tell me kenwood isn't any good but I hear from experienced car audio technicians that kenwood makes better head units than premier. I was looking to get the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 or the Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB. They are both around the same price and all advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nick

what should my electrical look like to support these and the saz-100.4 ... i am debating on whether i want to buy 2 of these or just get the saz-4500d ... right now i have a 260 amp alt by iraggi and the stock was 130 amp ... i was thinking about buying some of the c and d 100 lb batteries (supposed to be comparable to the hc3800) ... how many would i have to buy to support this amount of power ... i understand i would need a bigger alternator but this is the biggest they make for my car and a dual alt setup is near impossible

i just got my autotek mean machine 1500 hooked up to my 2 type r 12s and i got the ssf at 35 and the lpf at 80...what do you guys run yours at or suggest i run them at

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure al…

So the other day i was driving down the street and the stereo was playing just fine. I was on my way to get another door handle to replace the one that broke. Everything was installed and i plugged my driver side door panel in and the speaker connected to it when the subwoofer stage started turning on and off. SO i immediately turned everything off, I went back with a test light and everything was working fine so i plugged everything back together and it worked fine. So today on my way to work the sub stage cuts off completely. So I immediately turn everything off again. Go to work, and come back home. I did the test light thing again and every time i check the amp tur…

I have a rockford punch 501s bridged to a polkmomo 15 at 2 ohm and it gets too hot and shuts off after about 30-45 min. Bass boost is all the way down and gain is @ 3/4. Gain knobs r messed up though because any less then that the sub is unnoticable. I always ran it at 4 ohm before and never got hot or had any problems. Now it just gets smokin hot. At least 7 years old or so. I guess I should just keep it as a 2 channel then huh?

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in…

When I installed my alt. it metered out at 14.9 at idle at 260amps. Driving home today I noticed the battery light came on... As soon as I pulled in the driveway I slapped a DMM to everything! Now on all my points I read 26.5 to 27.3 volts....WTF!!!!! I haven't touched a thing since I installed it. What in the hell would make this alt decide it now want to spit out almost twice the voltage? I'm yanking it out for now and putting in the stock alt...(I know it's good) I've had issues with this thing since day one with the annoying whine it puts out of the housing..... Besides the noise it worked excellent...UNTIL NOW!! Any advise would be nice if anyone has any input.. Than…

IM NEW TO THE AMP AND SUB GAME AND I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS I PLAN ON BUYING A 12" BTL AND HIFONICS 2010 WATT BRUTUS AMP IM WONDERING WHAT AMP KIT WOULD BE BEST FOR THIS SETUP WOULD I NEED TO BUY A CAPACITOR AND/OR UPGRADE MY ALTERNATOR AND WHERE COULD I FIND SAMPLE BOX SPECS FOR IT BECAUSE I HAVE NO CLUE HOW OR WHAT TO BUILD SUB BOXS SUGGESTIONS FOR HEAD UNITS I APPRECIATE THE HELP..

http://www.cdstandbypower.com/product/battery/vrla/pdf/12_1029.pdf it is the 100 lb battery idk which one it is ik there is 2 of them ... how are they ... someone is selling them for around 250 each on a car audio forum ... they are supposed to be comprable to the kinetic hc3800 he said