Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm going to install two amps one is mono and the other is a 4 channel for my mids and highs. I already have the power, ground, and rem wire, but the only thing is how can i get two rca's if my headunit only has one connection?

im off this weekend, everytime im off for the weekend i tow my car to work..... when i got to work i unloaded my car.. and started playin with my audio.... i rolled my h/u volume up to 27... wanged for 30 seconds.. then my subs cut off and a nasty sound came from the comps..... pop my trunk my 3000d is in protection! my sax is fine.. but makin the nasty noise..... i DMM my amp power and check my ohms.... all is good..... i turn my car off flip my breaker into "off" restart my car... ugly noise remains.... flip my breaker back on for my saz... and it plays.... i roll my h/u back up and back into protection..... so the same thing over again but this time keep the …

I know that there are some good amp companies out there, i need a suggestion for, a single 3way comp set up front and 2 15" SI Mag D2s. Comp watts needed 400 total, 2 channel. Sub watts needed 2.5K-3K total mono/ or 2 mono d block amps. Any suggestions for these wattages... moneys not the issue but i dont wana spend alot. I want quality stuff. But not over the top. any suggestions welcome.

I was at a local shop today browsing and I see a rf 3sixty .1 says he will take $199 for it. Seems decent as far as price. My plan is for my new Malibu I'm buying everything before I install. 2 sa12's, crescendo bc2000, fosgate t1 components, rf power t400.4..etc those things I have now. I want a clean sounding system that of course hits nice and hard. I have no experience with processors. The components will be in stock locations with no intentions of altering that. Head unit will be changed so no need for the oem integration part of the 3sixty just RCA ins. I assume if I plan to use the 3sixty I'll have to ditch the passive crossovers..correct? Which will become an ac…

I have 8guage kicker ofc wiring kit in my truck. Right now its powering one powerbass asa 400.2 subwoofer amp that puts 400 rms. I have an old amp that i want to put on my front door speakers that is 55x2 rms. Would my 8 guage wire be enough for that also? Or do i need to get another wiring kit to be safe? Thankyou. Oh and is there any advice for wiring my front doors? I want both amps in the back of thetruck. Do i run wires from where the factory wires are to the amp for high level input then another back to the doors? Or do i take the wire out of the door and then to the amp And to the doors? Thanks for any help.

What is the importance of an amps efficancy? I know being effeciant in anything is good, but how does this affect amplifier performance when comparing apples to apples. If you have one amp that is say 90% effeciant at 4ohms and another amp that is 70% effeciant at 4ohms and are both rated to put out 500 watts at 4ohms at 12.8 volts; what does the effeciancy rating tell me, the consumer, about the amp I am using? Any input would be appreciated.

i was installing a voltmeter today and i ran a power wire for it from the front battery threw the firewall and up to around where my headunit is the wire was 8g so i just hooked everything up to see if it was working everything worked fine then i moved the headunit and that power wire touch the back off my headunit it sparked and now the hu wont work i dont know how that could break it it touched the part in the back that looks like a heat sink idk what that part is for its liek ridges any way it made this terrible smell so i guess its broke i didnt like that hu anyway it was a soundstream touch screen one so for my new hu im looking for one with just buttons and volume …

I recently had a 3sixty.3 failure and decided I no longer wanted a separate processor. Now im looking into head-units that can give me what my 3sixty did. My setup consists of a set of rockford T5 comps and an Fi Q. When I had the 3sixty I Used my T400-4 to bi amp the T5 passive giving me a the ability to eq mids and tweeters seperatly. I realize that I may not need that and decided to bridge the amp and not bi amp anymore. So with that I need is a headunit with time alignment and a decent eq. The head unit I have in mind is the alpine cde-149bt; it does t/a but only gives a 9 band parametric eq. I guess my question is do you thing 9 bands will be enough?

So after getting another battery that i had layin around and my trusty 250a battery charger, i hook the battery up backwards because someone decided they'd have a black wire for + ...lmao scared me a lil bit as sparks flew everywhere... Ok but i get it hooked up and it still cuts off as the charger has 12low, med, and high. High usually runs my voltage up to 16 and into dangerous levels, so i turn it up and then go turn the battery charger to high, and voila. I had the gain turned all the way down and my trunk was about to kome off. I'm not really quite sure if the SX's can take it,lol. I let it play for about 10mins, the cones were extremely hot, so i gave it a break. …

I tried to set the gains on some amps with a DMM and a test tone cd but I could not read the good values on the DMM. One of the Amps is an sax 1000 Sundown at 1 ohm : so I should read sqr(1000 x 1) = more than 30 volts. I don't remember the right number, but I had the good number when doing it. the maximum I read was 21.7 volts, withe knob to the max! What may be the problem? How can I do the good settings? The DMM is brand new, maybe it is a bad one. Hope not! So, I had to set it by ears. Help me, please!

I was at wal mart the other day picking up some speaker wire for an install i was doing for a friend. I was looking at the HU section just out of curiosity. I found a unit that is made specifically for iPod/iPhone playback. It had a FM tuner, aux in, and the faceplate flips down with a iPod/Phone docking station. I put my iPhone on it to see if it would work with it. It charged my phone and played the music just fine. The price on this unit was 100$ even. I know dual is probably one of the most frowned upon audio companies out there.. but I've been looking into a new HU with a budget, and 95% of my music is played from my iPhone, so I dont need all the fancy features. For…

I have it wired but it doesn't turn off when I turn the car off because its directly hooked up to the battery. I'm thinking I can splice into my remote turn on for the amp but I won't get a voltage reading from that will i? I need a way to get the best voltage reading possible and for the meter to shut off when the car is turned off... helpppppppppppppppppppp

I recently installed an Eclipse CD-8445. It's been great, however I have not had much success using E-ISERV. I have not been able to transfer AreaShot files or Audio settings to my HU via CD or Memorystick. I have been able to transfer Motion Picture files however. Whenever I try to transfer AreaShot or Audio settings, I receive a "file err" message. I've tried upgrading the firmware...but that has never been done successfully either. Any help is appreciated.

hi, i currently have an alpine pdx 4 100 and today i was messing around with my crossover because i was using my head unit as it and my battery died this morning so i lost everything when i replaced with and ever since i messed with the crossovers it has been going into prottection mode after about 10 mins at full volume ( by full volume i mean 45 out of 62 becuase that is where i set my gains to.) now last time it did this it was hot outside ( 97o) and today it is 92 but the feel like temp is 97 so could that be the problem. i have it mounted on my backseat with them folded up.

Kenwood KDC-MP205 Anybody familiar with this? My step bro just got one and we CANNOT figure out how to get it to play his itouch through the AUX input

I am going to actually use a dimm for once....easy enough looks like.....but the mini has a few more controls than most amps I have run.... any pointers on what to set the amp at? test tone recomendation or is 50 good enough?

So I have Two Sundown SA-12 D4's on a Saz-1500d v.3 amp. my head unit only has 1 output so would http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cde-134hd/ work with that setup?

ok so i bought some 0 gauge welding wire for my amp. can i just ground my batt. to the chassis and engine then ground my amp to the chassis? this probably sounds stupid but i dont wanna fuck up

It was called the Manhattan... It was 5 feet long & it required cooling lines. It was featured back in the day as a new product feature in a car audio magazine (early 90's?).

Ok so I have a 2005 mazda 3. After putting in a saz-1000D and a JL 300/2 (just ordered my sax100.4 which will replace the JL), my electrical couldn't handle it. So I decided to do the big 3 as it is the cheapest route. Well I just finished. And I think there was an improvement but not like I thought it would be. Now when my bass hits my voltage drops from 14.4 to 13.8 sometimes 12.8. This is with the car on and idling. And my lights still dim but not that bad as it used to. My car has a 90 amp alt. Upgraded to big 3 now. So my next step is getting a kinetik or XS battery for the rear to see if this makes an improvement. After I do the battery in the rear I plan on doing…

I´m not so god at english too start with cause im from Sweden! =) i´ve just bouht a saz-3500d and i´m wondering if i can load it down too 0.5ohm? At the moment im using it on 4 Audiotop 15.4 15" subs,and i had an Sundown 3000d before and the difference in preassure was really big and with the saz3000d i played 150.00 with music. But i´vw also bougt 2 Sundown nightshade 12" 2 * 2 subs and my otehr question is there any chance that i can play more than 150 db with the 2 Nightshade on the 3500d amp?

ok i think i got it. check out the diagram, and tell me if its right. i heard that alot of amps will output a low freq or pop for a second when you turn the amp on, and to use a cap on each channel to not allow that freq. to get to my tweeters. the nominal load of each channel after i wire it up will be 1.5 ohm. so according to WinSD or whatever it is, it say that a 68uF 100V cap (with the 1.5 ohm load) will not let any freq under 1000ish Hz pass through that cap. is that right? i also have the Coustic XM6 (just ordered) which is 18dB per octave, and then the HPF on my amp is 12dB per octave, does that make my overall slope for the tweets 30dB? plus does the cap still add…

Hey guys I’m new to this forum but I will just get straight too it I have 2 svr12s from Skar and the rp1500 from Skar too it’s rated for 1500rms and 2300max I have my system wired at 1 ohm as it recommends and have done the the big three and have a 200amp high output alternator and a dual battery setup with 0awg going from the front battery to the back battery and I’m still having a bad voltage drop when I play music wondering what else I could do to fix it, it will drop down to 12.4v and will slowly get lower if I’m playing a continuous bass type of song and it’s an older car 1989 cutlass Calais idk if that would anything to do with it any thank you

Ok I got some new Knu Konceptz battery terminals with 4g outputs and I'm assuming I will need to cut the stock terminal out. So soldering the wires will be the best option right? Now I know with smaller wires you usually just twist them together and then solder but thats not really feasible with 4g, or is it? If anyone has tips on doing this it would be greatly appreciated. This is the terminal I will be using.

I have a guy that has a brand new in box Power Acoustik A1800DB amp, and he's wanting to trade it for my used Memphis 16-ST1000D. A 1800 watt for a 1000 watt.. I know PA isn't as quality of a brand as Memphis.. but it seems like a good amp. Any suggestions of whether or not I should follow through?