Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am looking at two different amps. The sundown 3500 or the crescendo 5500. Both r close and around same price. I hear crescendo is not very good at customer service and theory ratings r rated at 13.8 volts. Sundown on the other hand is known for customer service and umderate their amps, supposingly tested at 12.5 volts. I'm leaning toward the sundown amp and almost commuted to it, but would the crescendo b better especially since they have .05 ohm warranty. What do u guys think?

Well guys my avic's outputs took a shit today. Have a horrible alternator wine no matter what i do and its putting my 1500d into protect. Plugged up the ipod to both amps with the car running and no problems with either amp. Ive tried everything from different rca's to different remote wires and nothing seems to work. you guys got any ideas?

Just curious if the kinetik will be an upgrade compared to the stock G34 I have up front. The kinetik is smaller than the stock battery, but it's also a battery designed for this type of thing. Might sound like a no brainer but I wanted to make sure.

Hey, I was just looking for some input on which car battery I should purchase for my 2000 GMC safari van. I plan on running 2 18" Fi Q series off of 2 apline pdx 1000.1's also a alpine for my highs and mids. I have already purchased a xsatic 400 series batcat for the rear and wanted some help on picking a battery for up front to replace the stock one. I am running 0awg power and ground wire from the front battery to the rear also am planning on doing the BIG3 but dont really know how to upgrade the alt. wire to 0awg, anyhow i dont plan on upgrading the alt right away maybe down the road so I need a battery that can be ran off the stock alt. I have looked at the optima…

ive got a 02 blazer and will be installing 6.5" comp set up front and getting rid of the rear speakers, would there be anything wrong with mounting the x-overs in the rear speaker location?

I'm currently using a RF T600-4 to run my RF T1652-S door and rear deck speakers. I've started to notice when turning on my radio after the car has set for a while the front left speaker doesn't turn on until I turn the volume up a bit. Once it kicks on I can run forever at low or high volumes without it cutting out. Just wondering if anyone knows the internals in a amp that could cause this.

im going active in a month or 2 and i just saw some kicker zx100.2 amps on ubid.com. the bid is closing friday and i think i could get 2 of them for like $15 each (not including shipping). they are factory refurbs. ive purchased a kx250.2 from them previously. my idea is to bridge them to each mid and use my 250.2 for tweets. will this work? might hold off and try for a zx 150.2 or 200.2 next week...

Saw this head unit for pretty decent price...plus it comes with the ipod cord(ive got an ipod) looked nice is this a nice budget hu? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=17793

so the other day im driving down the road and my right front speaker cuts out. so i get pissed and try to beat some sense into the door panel but to no avail. i had the problem narrowed down to the wiring harness, but when i checked all of the wires were in perfect condition. and now both of my right speakers dont work. i was told that the internal amp in the HU might have gone bad and i would really like to be able to listen to my music. any thoughts?

I bought an 230A alternator from Nations Starter and Alternator in Cape Girardeau, MO about a year ago for $450, my warrenty is expired and now its squeaking. I spoke to the guy at the store and he says that there is no way that alternator is squeaking he said that he was 1000% (yes 1000%) sure it had to be something else but not the alternator. He is stuck on his work being perfect. All I can say is that I would never ever buy anything from them again. Ok now that thats out of the way, should i take it to an alternator shop to get it fixed, or should i just get a new one. And if so where can i get a 200-250 Amp alternator for a reasonable price? Its for a 2000 Dodge Dako…

Here's my new nightmare problem. I have to completely re-build my H/O alternator for my 2005 Ford Ranger XLT. This is a 3.0 V6 2WD and a Iraggi 260 amp H/O Ford 3G Large Case alternator. Due to a limited budget I am pressed to do this myself instead of sending it off for repair. I will be re-building it with a H/O 240 amp re-build kit. Here's some pics of my progress so far. I still need to order the kit so I have to wait to re-build it and test the final results. Here's the rear bearing and slip ring: Rotor assembly has a broken lead: The rectifier this part usually goes bad. It has diodes that take the AC power produced from the Rotor & Stotor and turns it into…

Nothing to special, I bought a cheap amp from a guy on **** and got it in the mail today, its actually a really nice amp its brand new never been used. VVME QA-D1500 I hear its pretty much the same as the Audiopipe ASPM-1500 not sure how true that is. but i figure i could use it one day so ill keep it around for something to play with.

I've been searching around for some 3/0 lugs for my electrical upgrade. I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see. Like this: I found some on amazon for $2 each. I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky. Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either. Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals. Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at? Any suggestions? I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact. Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offe…

I have a XS Power D3400 as my starting battery mounted in the engine compartment and an axuiliry D3400 mounted in my trunk. The batteries are wired in parallel with no isolator/relay. I have an alternator on order from DC Power but I have yet to receive it. My stock alternator is 90 amps. My system draw can be over 100 amps but I have it tuned down for now. I monitor my voltage which stays above 13.3 volts, worse case with engine running. I am concerned that I will damage my stock alternator and XS Power batteries with my system demands. I am getting more and more ticked that it is taking DC Power over 4 months to get me my alternator and I still do not know when I will h…

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I've got a crescendo 1000c4 that can run either 500w x2 bridged at 4 ohms 250w x2 bridged at 8 ohms how can i tell if its wired at 4 or 8 ohms ? and if it was at 4 ohms would an s4 sub work ? or only d4

anyone know much about this amp? EARTHQUAKE PHD5000W. I never really heard of this company before are they any good? real rating or not?

well i ordered my clarion DXZ955MC from cardomain.com shipped out this afternoon after i ordered like 3:30 my time still had time to ship out all i can say excellent support, after i orderd they called me like 2 or 3 minutes after i ordered to confirm it, price match is awsome, got 270$ off and still got warranty, also for like 10$extra got 2 day shipping because last time it took 5 days to get my amp, and i wanted it by this weekend so will let everyone know soon how i like it, should install it saturday or sunday because i have to work thursday and football game friday night

Has anyone done this that could give me some advice? Any explorer within a couple years would be the same.

I'm runing two ia 21 dp's I am trying to figure out what amp to go with a incriminator audio 40.1 or a Memphis 4kw if any one can help with the pros and cons of both please and thank you

I'm going to get a fi bl 12 with a SAZ-1000D amp and i was wondering if i needed anther battery or alternator or anything like that. my car is a 1997 honda accord lx and everything is stock.

Hi, I have juste received an aliante 12si and i'm trying to figure out what amp would cope with it. I don't want mono one but a 2channels... i have a ground zero 4125SQ for the front which is a Focal KRX3. But i'm trying to find other 4-6ch to compare them (Zapco DC, Zed, Mosconi, McIntosh,...) I'm just saying this because i'd like the "project" (not build yet) to stay aesthetic so i will probably stay in the same brand for he amps. Thanks for your help

Ok so today i was resetting the gain on my Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D. I was using a 50hz tone using a dmm. I realized that once the gain was turned up to a certain point it started to make a weird humming sound. I could hear it from inside of the amp on the side closest to where the settings are. Any ideas of what it may be? The 50hz tone I have repeats in 10 second intervals. I can only hear this humming sound from the amp during the 10 seconds. And yes I'm not hearing the noise coming from the speakers inside. Why does the amp only make this sound when the gain reaches a certain point?

I'm getting ready to order 3 DEKA Intmidator cells from REMY through the ROE.com group buy... My question is....they have 100 Amps/Hour rating.....so 100x3 is 300 Amps/Hour on tap... Would that be enough to feed the 3000D's properly along with them being from what I read up on them(underrated) at 1000CCA's... and my Yellow-Top up front...all 0 gauge wiring, 2 runs of ground and power front to back....160Amp load boss alternator... Should this be enough to feed the amplifiers properly? I'm going with a wall and 2 15" subwoofers...undecided on the woofer as of now and I want to have enough voltage on tap...

Hey all.I just got my high output alternator and I'm wanting to do the big 3 upgrade but I have a couple of questions first.I'm going to use the knukoncepts kolliousis flex 1/0 wire to do it and I was wondering about how many feet of wire I would need to do it. My car is a 1977 oldsmobile delta 88 with a 403 engine if that helps any. Also could someone post a good article on how exactly to do it please? Thanks a ton. HawkEye