Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've got two grl5500's that I picked up cheap and used for awhile while I was doing upgrades. Problem I ran into is that when I upgraded my alt. I made a noob mistake of not upgrading my fuse to rear battery. I know Duh! Adw I didn't catch it and everything was fine until my rear batteries voltage just gave out. After doing all the proper wiring upgrades, which I should have done first, I charged the battery made sure it was fine then proceeded to hook amps back up. They powered up but produced no sound. Not for sure what to do. I've since got my sundown in, but would have liked to recoup some money on these. Any ideas on what could be the problem or just write it up as a…

well i got robbed back in july in addition to hu being taken the radio bezel was also ripped out along with harness. so im getting ready to get another hu, possibly the same one (pio deh-p4900ib). i was looking at the wires yesterday and none of the wires looked familiar to me. so my question is how would i go about running the hu off the batt? i know i can ground(black wire) to the - and yellow(batt) wire can be wired to + of battery. how do i wire the red(ignition) wire? somebody chime in and let me know what i need to do safely step by step. this is going in a 99 mustang if that matters.

Hey guys, i was thinking about getting a Powermaster D1200 for my system... As of right now... i have a RF p5002 going to a 12" w3. When i have everything cranked up i notice my lights dimming a little bit... Yes i have factory wiring... but also i have a peice of junk battery (not sure exactly what it is but it was the cheapest thing i could find when i bought the car) although the car does have a 110amp alt. (i will be replacing the battery i have right now) My question is this... Will that help out my dimming situation with such a small amount of power being taken from the p5002. Within the next couple weeks (once my turn comes up in quentins long line) ill be switchin…

im going active in a month or 2 and i just saw some kicker zx100.2 amps on ubid.com. the bid is closing friday and i think i could get 2 of them for like $15 each (not including shipping). they are factory refurbs. ive purchased a kx250.2 from them previously. my idea is to bridge them to each mid and use my 250.2 for tweets. will this work? might hold off and try for a zx 150.2 or 200.2 next week...

I am looking to et some battries. I have saz 1500 in a 2000 gmc jimmy. I was looking at kinetics, but i wasn't sure what iwould need. Feel free to name more good brands. Also what are temperest batts? Are they refurbs or sum???

Right now i have a crunch pzi 1500.1 amp powering these two subs and i know it is putting out less than 1000w rms so these subs arent even being powered 1/2 way but they are still very loud(i have a 96 saturn 2 door and a 3cuft box tuned to 33 hz) i was just wondering what amp would be good to run these with without getting a HO alternator. I dont need an amp that is going to push these to there max i just want one with more quality than the crunch and that wont overheat. The crunch is alright but tends to get very very hot.

Where do you guys get your wiring from? I was thinking of getting my RCAs from KnuKnoceptz (Krystal series). I've read about getting power wire from WeldingSupply.com. But this is from posts from a year or more ago. Just curious where everyone else goes.

I recently had a 3sixty.3 failure and decided I no longer wanted a separate processor. Now im looking into head-units that can give me what my 3sixty did. My setup consists of a set of rockford T5 comps and an Fi Q. When I had the 3sixty I Used my T400-4 to bi amp the T5 passive giving me a the ability to eq mids and tweeters seperatly. I realize that I may not need that and decided to bridge the amp and not bi amp anymore. So with that I need is a headunit with time alignment and a decent eq. The head unit I have in mind is the alpine cde-149bt; it does t/a but only gives a 9 band parametric eq. I guess my question is do you thing 9 bands will be enough?

Ok I got some new Knu Konceptz battery terminals with 4g outputs and I'm assuming I will need to cut the stock terminal out. So soldering the wires will be the best option right? Now I know with smaller wires you usually just twist them together and then solder but thats not really feasible with 4g, or is it? If anyone has tips on doing this it would be greatly appreciated. This is the terminal I will be using.

So I have Two Sundown SA-12 D4's on a Saz-1500d v.3 amp. my head unit only has 1 output so would http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cde-134hd/ work with that setup?

I tried to set the gains on some amps with a DMM and a test tone cd but I could not read the good values on the DMM. One of the Amps is an sax 1000 Sundown at 1 ohm : so I should read sqr(1000 x 1) = more than 30 volts. I don't remember the right number, but I had the good number when doing it. the maximum I read was 21.7 volts, withe knob to the max! What may be the problem? How can I do the good settings? The DMM is brand new, maybe it is a bad one. Hope not! So, I had to set it by ears. Help me, please!

Is trading a memphis mclass 1100x1 for a massive n4 2000rms plus $150 a good deal?

Ok my first post here guys, I sold my MTX terminator's i know haha really cheap 12's with a crappy amp but to me they honestly weren't that bad although i haven't heard anything other than that and kicker comps. i'm just now starting to learn about car audio. right now i have alpine cda-105 HU alpine type r coaxial 6x8s up front alpine type r coaxial 6x9s on the rear deck I was gonna get a 4ch amp and a mono block amp but i came across 5ch amps so u get your high's n mids and sub channel all in one amp the kicker zx700.5 looks like a pretty good deal and i'd probably come out cheaper getting that vs buying a 4ch and a mono block amp my question is would 70x4 be enough …

Ok so today i was resetting the gain on my Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D. I was using a 50hz tone using a dmm. I realized that once the gain was turned up to a certain point it started to make a weird humming sound. I could hear it from inside of the amp on the side closest to where the settings are. Any ideas of what it may be? The 50hz tone I have repeats in 10 second intervals. I can only hear this humming sound from the amp during the 10 seconds. And yes I'm not hearing the noise coming from the speakers inside. Why does the amp only make this sound when the gain reaches a certain point?

Hey people. I have a very simple question that i need answered. I have one hcca 15.2 and i have one hcca 25001 amp. I plan on buying another one of each to put in my car but just out of curiosity, both the 15.2 and the 25001 amp have been sitting up unused for quite some time, and i would like to know would that cause any malfunctioning in either of the two? Just curious, Thanks!

the red got ripped out of the harness to my 4900 in my crash, where is the best place to get the replacement harness for this?

If an amplifier is receiving a bandpassed input from the head unit of say 60hz - 2000hz and I used the RCA out from the amp to another amp will the second amp receive the same frequencies as the first? I would think so as I dont see how it could be full range as it's not receiving full range input from the source. Just thinking and wanted to double check with some of you guys to confirm. ?

Hello SSA! I am selling my Type-R to a friend soon, and getting a Soundstream T5-10 from another friend. I just sold the amp I was using on the R so I could buy a new amp for it, but now this opportunity has presented itself. I am looking for an amp that can do 800-1000 watts at 1 ohm, for around $200. I've been looking around, but all the ones i've found have been Maxxsonics products, which never really do their rated power. Any suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I tried searching but search feature doesn't really like small words like Big 3. I've seen it a lot where people say you can leave the stock alternator/ground cables connected, but does disconnecting them have any effect? I ask because I would rather just cap the stock cables off for a cleaner install.

OK, so if I don't have it completely backwards, I understand that the higher the preout voltage, the lower the gain can/should be set because the amp doesn't have to be as sensitive of the incoming signal - so the amp can put out full power with the lower gain. My question is since the gain isn't set as high, is the amp drawing less current because of it? Or is it drawing the same amount of current as a signal with a lower preout voltage and higher gain setting? Just curious.

So my kenwood kdc deck is acting up and I feel like I don't know where to start.. Ok so the other day my head unit would just randomly turn off and then back and on and back off again. It would work for the most part then yesterday I was stopped at the bank and it shut off and didn't come back on.. So tonight I re-did some of the wiring behind the head unit but still nothing. I'm thinking its either a bad ground or a loose wire somewhere.. It will come on for a good 5-10 seconds and then I move it and it shuts off. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Right now I have an saz-2500d and I am getting the electrical to power it sufficeintly. As for batteries, the one I have now is a perfectly fine battery, I do not know what kind of amperage its putting out but it is a stock carquest battery and rests at 12.5. Car on, I rest at 14.0-.1. I plan on doing... Excessive Amperage 200 amp Alternator Big 3 And a bettery for the rear (Possibly Deka intimidator 9A31) My question is on batteries... I don't want to spend a load of money on batteries so I'm wondering if a stock battery and 1 rear would be okay. Another thing is.. If my stock battery rests differently then my extra battery would that be okay, or what part would I need t…

RE does not sell the 12.1 anymore, I am wondering if they can repair a damaged one. I have a friend who has one that needs minor repairs. Anybody know?

I bought an 230A alternator from Nations Starter and Alternator in Cape Girardeau, MO about a year ago for $450, my warrenty is expired and now its squeaking. I spoke to the guy at the store and he says that there is no way that alternator is squeaking he said that he was 1000% (yes 1000%) sure it had to be something else but not the alternator. He is stuck on his work being perfect. All I can say is that I would never ever buy anything from them again. Ok now that thats out of the way, should i take it to an alternator shop to get it fixed, or should i just get a new one. And if so where can i get a 200-250 Amp alternator for a reasonable price? Its for a 2000 Dodge Dako…

What size wire should i use if i wire my doors? Would like 16 guage be enough for like up to 80rms? I only have a 45 or 55 rms amp atm but just planning ahead.. And any tips on wiring a door? Iv never done it..