Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i need fairly reasonable amp(s) to power these two drivers, also how many yellow tops would be good for this application if im using a 200 amp alt? if its not two much trouble can someone break the channel thing down for me as far as when you would use what type of amp..

I know this mught sound like a retarded question. Im not really an audio noobie but i havent had a newer head unit. My problem is simple. i cant find the bass treble controll. having said that, i have looked and my manual innt much help. My manual says tap the audio button repeatedly untill you get to the desired function IE...SUB LEVEL, BASS, TREBLE, FADE, BALANCE then back to volume. when i push the audio button i get... SUB LEVEL, BALANCE, FADE. not bass ot treble. i figured i had a setting "clicked" that would cause these features not to be present or adjustable. I have reset the head unit using a paper clip and went back to factory settings. still have the same iss…

i recently got an internship and in our engineering lab where i work we have many oscopes. i was wondering how i would be able to use the oscope to set the gains on my amplifier

So Im new to this but i have an 86 chevy suburban i want to have it banging harder than anyone eles in the hood. so im planing on getting two fi ssd 18's and i dont know if i should get a sundown saz 2500d or a saz 1500d please help i just have stock battery and stock atl will i need upgrades if so what do you rec

So I picked up a pair of Hertz Hsk165's and need some help with choosing an amp. Amp will be ran off of a kenwood 8120. I have about 400 to spend... but I wouldn't mind spending less. Im thinking about the following: sundown sax-125.2 $240 (even a 50.4 bridged thoughts???) audio systems twister 300 $300 jl 300/2 $350 steg K2|02 $450 arc ks300.2 $399 what are your thoughts on the ones posted? any recommendations?

ok so i originally planned on 2 hifinics 2608s but was advised against it.....so any recommendations. and price is a huge factor so the cheaper is nicer

I have a 2008 yukon with the stock alt and a optima yellow top and the big 3...my electrical has always been enough for my setup,im only running around 1300w but a week ago i left my light on and the next day my battery was drained...i jump started it...but now my voltage at driving and iddle drops down to 13v...before it ran around 13.9-14.7v...i used my multimeter and 13v is whats the alt is putting out...my battery with the truck off is 12.6v.:.here is the funny part...if i turn on all the lights and the front and rear AC the voltage jumps up to 14.9...is my alt dying on me or is it the batt?

Hello all. Its just a distant thought (depending how achievable) what does it seriously take to run up to 16 volts on electrical? Ive never asked. And i have no clue. I hold steady at 13.7-13.9 after the batteries top off. Is it as simple as 16v batteries and a 16v charger (ho alt also of course)

Hey guys. I'm just looking at buying the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS and was wondering what people's opinions were on it. Looks like a solid unit for a good price, but I just wanted some feedback/info about it before I bought it. Thanks, Mason

I am in the process of helping a friend choose equipment for his install. The car is a 2005 Chrysler 300M. This will be an active setup with 3.5" highs mounted flat in the dash, and 8" midbasses mounted in the doors. He already has a JVC KWV20BT hu installed. This hu is lacking a bandpass filter and time alignment. Also has limited EQ ability's. I have suggested a stand alone digital sound processor as the owner does not want to purchase a different deck. He is fine with this. What DSP's are currently available that will allow for a active 2-way, has T/A, has a decent EQ, AND the ability of tuning from the drivers seat? As I don't keep up with all the current offer…

I just picked one up for $150 to run a pair of 10" IDQ D4's and a pair of CDT Cl-5x coaxes in my friends car. Just wondering if it was worth the 150 or not. 4 ohm stereo @ 75 WRMS x 4 2 ohm stereo @ 150 WRMS x 4 4 ohm bridged @ 300 WRMS x 2 all rated at 13.5 vdc

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

I am buying a yellow top from my friend. It is taller than my original battery and the wires won't reach.

I just got an L.A. Sound 4 Channel amplifier, model number S835, it was given to me by my uncle, I tested it with a 6x9 and a PC power supply and all the channels seem to work, it's supposedly 800 watts (max I'm assuming), has anyone ever heard of L.A. Sound or used any of their amplifiers? Were they any good?

My Christmas gift from my family is going to be a new HU. I'm replacing a Dual unit with either a Pioneer or Kenwood as I've heard more good things from those 2. The new Pioneers have android app control through Bluetooth. The BT in my Dual has pretty crappy volume compared to plugging it through the aux jack. Are all units like that? Or is it just the fact I've been running a lower quality HU?

I was happily enjoying my new (old) amp, when it turned off. I assumed the remote wire came loose again, end of story. The terminals are screws but with no plate so it slides out easily. (Before you ask, no short, it was in line of sight the whole time). I re-connected the remote wire, and nothing. Simply will not turn back on. No blown fuse, no smell, heck, not even warm. I have no idea where to begin looking for the culprit. I'd post pictures of the damage but there is none that is visible... Any ideas on how to fix this situation? I love this amp, and would hate to retire it to paperweight status.

Ok so I installed my Stinger voltmeter last week and tuned it or whatever with my multimeter and it works perfect,.. but now that I can watch my voltage.. it is weird. Sometimes when I am driving it goes below 12v.. this is even if my head-unit is off, no windsheild wipers, no headlights no ac.. nothing on just driving and it randomly went to like 11.6 even.. I have figured out my "normal" voltage when driving is usually 12.5-12.7v... like that's what it stays at most of the time.. but when im driving I notice it is randomly at like 11.9 then later its like 11.6 and its for like 5-10 mins sometimes and then sometimes it goes back to like 12.2 or 12.5 and just fluctuates a…

Hey guys, I bought a jeep wrangler and the previous owner added in a new HU but decided to be cheap and hack the wires together rather than buy a harness. Every time I shut the jeep off, the radio shuts off, then deletes all the pre sets. I bought a new HU, hooked the wires up, and the same thing happens. Shut off the jeep, bam the HU resets and goes through the initial set stage. What is causing this? Bad ground? I'm stumped.

I'm looking for a solid amp for my mids and highs, 125-150 rms @ 4 ohms. A friend of mine is pushing me towards the Jl 300.2 but I know there are cheaper alternatives that are just as good. I'd like to keep the price around 200-300$. Thanks for any input!

So today i turned on my car while leaving class and decided to bump on the way home. Well i couldn't because my sub wasn't working. It was working before class. I got home and hooked up my other working sub which i decided to upgrade from (VIBE slick) and that did not work either. I know for a fact that the vibe isn't blown and my amp tells me when a sub is blown, wired wrong etc. The amp said everything was fine. So i hooked up my old amp (a kenwood) and that amp didn't work either with both subs. I can't stress enough that the VIBE is a good working subwoofer. I checked all of my fuses under the hood and none of them are blown. Neither are the fuses on both of the amps.…

So I was just curious when wiring a voltmeter to my amp, can I just put the power, remote, and negative wire directly into the amp where the battery wires are put in? Or do I have to try and splice them into a "Y" right before they enter the amp?

Hi, All, I have a couple questions related to the internal subwoofer crossover(?) of the Alpine CDA-105. So far, Alpine Tech support and Crutchfield "advisors" have been unable to help -- they only know what's in the manual, which I am perfectly capable of reading myself! 1) Does the High Pass Filter function (60/80/100 Hz or off) affect only the front and rear line or speaker outputs, and NOT the subwoofer output? I would assume only the front and rear line or speaker outputs would be filtered, but, the manual does not clearly specify. (See page 14 of the manual.) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM%20CDA-105_EN.pdf 2) Assuming my abov…

I have a 2.2L 2002 Oldsmobile Alero and am having a tough time finding a high output alternator bigger than 150amps. I'm just wondering if somebody has this car and purchased one, I called a place and they said an alternator made for a 1999-2002 Chevy cavalier MIGHT FIT, so that's a take a chance and hope you're right. I am running 2000 watts right now, my alternator fried today and have been searching for hours trying to find one but nothing comes up. I figure I might as well get one now instead of wasting $100 to get a new 105amp one. Otherwise would a second battery work after the big 3 upgrade? I have 2 1000 watt alpines and 2 pioneer premiers ts-w3004spl but will be …

im stuck... help me. both 1 ohm daily .25 burps. on 300 mechman and 3 dekas

First off, i got this radio from my brother for finishing his basement so i have no actual booklet. i have downloaded the 177 page owners manual from Pioneer. i just installed the radio today in my 2004 Blazer and love it so far but... i am running component speakers and a subwoofer. i hooked it up like the manual told me to but i can't turn the sub off or fade it out. i turn it to the sub setting and try to turn it off and nothing happens, i still get bass. also, does anyone know where to get the microphone so i can time align the system? i'm going to be running the tweeters and mids active soon but i don't want to try and deal with that if i don't have the right tools…