Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi there I just bought a 15 inch nightshade and need to pick an amp to run it. I want to get an amp that can run it at 2 ohms. Money is a lil tight,.. I was thinking about a hifonics brutus that does 1700 at ohms or a Power acoustics that does 2600 at 2 ohms, these are affordable amps but i dont know how good they are or if they over heat i would love some suggestions or links to amps that can run a 15 inch nightshade and get it LOUD without over heating or messing up the battery or alternator and is efficient and all that.. if someone is selling an amp that can push this sub please let me know. thanks!!

i was really close to ordering a Pioneer AVIC-D3 for the Mini. well, its 700 shipped, 6.1" screen, navi, etc. for a couple hundred more, why not get a carPC? so im doing just that. i ordered the 10.4" samsung VGA touchscreen. i need to figure out the PC thing now. im mostly concerned with the audio output. im going to keep my Head unit, and run audio out from the PC, to red/white aux in on the nakamichi HU. then sub/front/rear outs from the HU, to the EQ, then to the crossover, then to the amps. my question is, if the audio out on the PC is a standard 3.5mm jack, would is sound bad if i ran 3.5mm out from pc, to red/white aux in on HU? (i ran my ipod this way for a while,…

Okay guys i ran into a problem, i called DC Power and they said they DO NOT have a dual alternator kit for me and without one i WILL have major voltage drop. (I TOLD THEM MY SYSTEM HAS 10,000 WATTS ~ rough estimate) I DO NOT want to drop really low because this system will be a DAILY DRIVER, so i will be playing a lot and i don't want to limit the usage or anything of the sort because of voltage drop. The biggest alternator DC Power had for me is a 320 Amp w/ 180 idle. (I'd really like to go with this company) The Sub Stage; (2) 15" AA SMDs (3500W power handling ~per sub) (2) AQ3500D.1 (1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1 ~per amp) (4) XS P…

Its been awhile since I posted. But I'm back in the stereo business now. And the shop here sold someone a Power Acoustic "CAPCELL" 800-amp. 2 months ago. She came in today and her woofers basically sounded like they were crying. She thought they were blown. I crawled in and looked and the Capcell was displaying 8.24v and when it would hit would drop as low as 6.96v some time. Basically I don't have any experience with capacitors because I dislike them. But this is a hybrid so I wonder how can I recharge it. Just hook it on a battery charger for a few hours? The system is a SPL GRLA5500.1 on CVX154ohm x 2 http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_addon_CAP…

Just finished some power testing on the Arc Audio amps that I did a review of, there posting on my site n2caraudio.com. If anyone is interested.

I know this mught sound like a retarded question. Im not really an audio noobie but i havent had a newer head unit. My problem is simple. i cant find the bass treble controll. having said that, i have looked and my manual innt much help. My manual says tap the audio button repeatedly untill you get to the desired function IE...SUB LEVEL, BASS, TREBLE, FADE, BALANCE then back to volume. when i push the audio button i get... SUB LEVEL, BALANCE, FADE. not bass ot treble. i figured i had a setting "clicked" that would cause these features not to be present or adjustable. I have reset the head unit using a paper clip and went back to factory settings. still have the same iss…

i recently got an internship and in our engineering lab where i work we have many oscopes. i was wondering how i would be able to use the oscope to set the gains on my amplifier

So Im new to this but i have an 86 chevy suburban i want to have it banging harder than anyone eles in the hood. so im planing on getting two fi ssd 18's and i dont know if i should get a sundown saz 2500d or a saz 1500d please help i just have stock battery and stock atl will i need upgrades if so what do you rec

So I picked up a pair of Hertz Hsk165's and need some help with choosing an amp. Amp will be ran off of a kenwood 8120. I have about 400 to spend... but I wouldn't mind spending less. Im thinking about the following: sundown sax-125.2 $240 (even a 50.4 bridged thoughts???) audio systems twister 300 $300 jl 300/2 $350 steg K2|02 $450 arc ks300.2 $399 what are your thoughts on the ones posted? any recommendations?

I have a 2008 yukon with the stock alt and a optima yellow top and the big 3...my electrical has always been enough for my setup,im only running around 1300w but a week ago i left my light on and the next day my battery was drained...i jump started it...but now my voltage at driving and iddle drops down to 13v...before it ran around 13.9-14.7v...i used my multimeter and 13v is whats the alt is putting out...my battery with the truck off is 12.6v.:.here is the funny part...if i turn on all the lights and the front and rear AC the voltage jumps up to 14.9...is my alt dying on me or is it the batt?

Hello all. Its just a distant thought (depending how achievable) what does it seriously take to run up to 16 volts on electrical? Ive never asked. And i have no clue. I hold steady at 13.7-13.9 after the batteries top off. Is it as simple as 16v batteries and a 16v charger (ho alt also of course)

Base your choice on experience and sheer quality of the product. Thanks for any opinions as well.

I am in the process of helping a friend choose equipment for his install. The car is a 2005 Chrysler 300M. This will be an active setup with 3.5" highs mounted flat in the dash, and 8" midbasses mounted in the doors. He already has a JVC KWV20BT hu installed. This hu is lacking a bandpass filter and time alignment. Also has limited EQ ability's. I have suggested a stand alone digital sound processor as the owner does not want to purchase a different deck. He is fine with this. What DSP's are currently available that will allow for a active 2-way, has T/A, has a decent EQ, AND the ability of tuning from the drivers seat? As I don't keep up with all the current offer…

Most of this is not from first hand experince so please correct me where I am wrong. I'm just trying to save people the time they use asking this question. Memphis mc-1000d aka 16st-1000d - So the amp I would most recomend in this price would be this. VERY efficent amp at about 85-90%. Costs about $360 shipped on ebay. Puts out 1100 real rms watts at 1ohm at 13.X volts. VERY small also. I often recomend this to people with Brahma's and subs like it. A large step above JBL and Hifonics. mc is black pearl in color, st is silver/chrome. This amp gets my vote. Great SQ with low distortion also. JBL BP1200.1 - This is probably the most used amp in this range. I'm not a HUGE fa…

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

what will be the best amp but not so pricey to power 2 Fi Bl 15" i wanna spend around 300-400 or maybe hook up to 1000 watt amps? dunno post some sugestions

I am buying a yellow top from my friend. It is taller than my original battery and the wires won't reach.

I have this amp and it says 600 watts @ 4 ohms.I know it has more power than this I just dont know how much. If anyone knows the specs on this amp it would be helpful. What ohms is it stable to? What should I fuse this amp at since it has no fuse on it? Does it have an unregulated power supply? Class ? It is an oldschool amp but I would like to run it, just need some info. It was made by ZED audio . I have searched the internet but found limited info. Any help would be appreciated.

I just got an L.A. Sound 4 Channel amplifier, model number S835, it was given to me by my uncle, I tested it with a 6x9 and a PC power supply and all the channels seem to work, it's supposedly 800 watts (max I'm assuming), has anyone ever heard of L.A. Sound or used any of their amplifiers? Were they any good?

My Christmas gift from my family is going to be a new HU. I'm replacing a Dual unit with either a Pioneer or Kenwood as I've heard more good things from those 2. The new Pioneers have android app control through Bluetooth. The BT in my Dual has pretty crappy volume compared to plugging it through the aux jack. Are all units like that? Or is it just the fact I've been running a lower quality HU?

I was happily enjoying my new (old) amp, when it turned off. I assumed the remote wire came loose again, end of story. The terminals are screws but with no plate so it slides out easily. (Before you ask, no short, it was in line of sight the whole time). I re-connected the remote wire, and nothing. Simply will not turn back on. No blown fuse, no smell, heck, not even warm. I have no idea where to begin looking for the culprit. I'd post pictures of the damage but there is none that is visible... Any ideas on how to fix this situation? I love this amp, and would hate to retire it to paperweight status.

Ok so I installed my Stinger voltmeter last week and tuned it or whatever with my multimeter and it works perfect,.. but now that I can watch my voltage.. it is weird. Sometimes when I am driving it goes below 12v.. this is even if my head-unit is off, no windsheild wipers, no headlights no ac.. nothing on just driving and it randomly went to like 11.6 even.. I have figured out my "normal" voltage when driving is usually 12.5-12.7v... like that's what it stays at most of the time.. but when im driving I notice it is randomly at like 11.9 then later its like 11.6 and its for like 5-10 mins sometimes and then sometimes it goes back to like 12.2 or 12.5 and just fluctuates a…

Hey guys, I bought a jeep wrangler and the previous owner added in a new HU but decided to be cheap and hack the wires together rather than buy a harness. Every time I shut the jeep off, the radio shuts off, then deletes all the pre sets. I bought a new HU, hooked the wires up, and the same thing happens. Shut off the jeep, bam the HU resets and goes through the initial set stage. What is causing this? Bad ground? I'm stumped.

I'm looking for a solid amp for my mids and highs, 125-150 rms @ 4 ohms. A friend of mine is pushing me towards the Jl 300.2 but I know there are cheaper alternatives that are just as good. I'd like to keep the price around 200-300$. Thanks for any input!

So today i turned on my car while leaving class and decided to bump on the way home. Well i couldn't because my sub wasn't working. It was working before class. I got home and hooked up my other working sub which i decided to upgrade from (VIBE slick) and that did not work either. I know for a fact that the vibe isn't blown and my amp tells me when a sub is blown, wired wrong etc. The amp said everything was fine. So i hooked up my old amp (a kenwood) and that amp didn't work either with both subs. I can't stress enough that the VIBE is a good working subwoofer. I checked all of my fuses under the hood and none of them are blown. Neither are the fuses on both of the amps.…