Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey all.Things have changed recently so im not going to be able to do the big system I wanted.I was wondering if I were to buy 2 12" SSA Icons and power them with a AQ 2200,would I need a HO Alternator?I was planning on also buying a Kinetik HC 1800 for a extra battery in the back and a Kinetik HC 800 for under the hood.Im not 100% sure how big my stock alt is but im prety sure its between 100-125 amps.Any info or advice would be much appreciated.Thanks.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCPUNCH150 will this amp do this power? Very Underrated Amplifier. Rockford Tested Power Ratings: 260W RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms 489W RMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms its rated: 75W RMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms 90W RMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms

Hello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers

amp isn't as loud as when first got it. any ideas

I need some help on choosing what amp to run. i have no clue where to even start. im getting 2 12 fi BTL's in a blow through in an s10. just thought id ask for some advice

About week ago while my truck was running and my music was playing my girlfriend opened my passenger door and my speakers started to hum. I seen the same problem with my friends amp "Foxmoto" and tried alot of things like changing my wiring, RCA's and my grounds about 5 or 6 times now and nothing seems to work. I have checked all the electrical and the readings are all normal. Any suggestions?

I'm going to be installing a stereo for my buddy in his JDM 1991 Mitsubishi J53 Jeep Turbo Diesel. The original radio was AM/FM with push in pre-set buttons (reminded me of my dad's old '67 Ford Galaxy 500XL Convertible). He's got some marine 6.5 coaxial speakers/pods he's mounting on the roll bar behind the driver and passenger's seats. The electrical is 24V (2 batteries wired in series). He bought a cheap no-name bluetooth media player and a 24V/12V converter. I know the fused "constant" wire from the stereo will connect to the 24V/12V converter but where do I get the 12V for the "ACC" ignition and remote/antenna wires from? All the wires shoot 24V-27V with the key in t…

i hooked up my hifonics bxi1206d amp and its not getting power supposively. i dont get it, its grounded and runnin power from the battery, and when i pulled out the fuse in it and it shot some sparks. the only other thing i can think of is maybe there is a ground wire in the back of the h/u isnt grounded....if i recall right. i messed with the gains and still....the led saying whether or not it has power didnt light up at all. any help?

So recently I had to reset all of my settings in my HU (see sig). I'm now wondering. What is up with all the intense as hell stuff i can set. Idk what any of it does really. main point. This HU is seemingly more SQ oriented that I thought it was. Not a bad thing. It sounds great. But i'm wondering if their are any general tips to make anything else sound better. System notes: all stock speakers, just sub stage added. thanks, Brett

Anyone know?

i was wondering if any one could help me by telling me were i could get a in dash volt meter? i have been searching on line and for some reason cant find any only batt terminal volt meters also any recommendation on some brands ? i was thinking stinger put like i said for some reason cant find any mayb im doing something wrong

I have looked every where and have only found very few discussions and i know it puts out decent power for what it is. My question is this can it run at 1 ohm all day long beating? im doing a groundpounder in a integra hatch with 2 18" level 5 DC's and i have 2 of these. I am over seas on a deployment for the army at the moment so i cant wire them up or anything so i need to know if they can run at 1 ohm or not befor i order the 18s any advice would be greatly appricated!

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone hear has any experience with critical mass amps. I know they are crazy money but that isnt my concern. I just want to know if they can throw out decent power. I had picked up the v2 series pretty cheap and have not used them yet. I didnt want them, but my buddy needed money for his house. Any input good or bad would be nice. I have put a side the money for a sundown 1500d for the summer, but in the mean time i was thinking of swaping my pdx 1000-1 for the critical mass v2 sub amp. Should I do it? (the v2 are the smaller black ones)

i want to have a test bench that i can test subs and amps and speakers on maybe even one that i can test how many true rms watts an amps is i have an extra head unit and some speakers i can hook up and a couple amps that need testing i just dont want to pull out my system to test them. how would i go about setting up a test bench? what do i need to set it up if someone has one can you take a video of it and show how you hooked yours up? please and thank you

g'day, i was trying to tune my gains the other day on my sax 200.4 with a test cd and multimeter i've used with several other cars and amplifiers. for some reason, the multimeter wont pick up any signal from any of the speaker outputs at all. i can turn the knob from 0.2v to 6v and not get any change off 0V, on any channel and any output. i'm using exactly the same method as i do with other cars and stereos and it's worked fine, but not with this amp. is there some trick to getting the sax 200.4 to measure through a multimeter or something? the meter i'm using is an Amprobe 5XP-A and it has plenty of battery left in it. thanks.

I want to use a JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier to drive my front stage two-way component set. This amplifier is four channel but is bridgeable. I have a two channel input signal for the XD400/4. If I read the manual correctly, I need a y-adapter (I will just make a RCA cable with 2 in 4 out) to connect to the XD400/4 to use the amplifier as a L+R bridged. Right? So basically the XD400/4 needs a four channel input to run as stereo bridged? From the XD400/4 manual: "When a pair of the XD400/4’s channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in mono (only one channel). This mono channel can contain right channel only information, left channel only information or the …

So.. I don't use any of this new bullshit, i keep it old school with audiocontrol stuff that does not mess up. Resistor packs and things to sifts slopes and crossover points.. What is a good deck now that actually has the capability of a H-701 processor or the likes there of? I'm drawing a blank... Any suggestions would be great! Thanks! -Nick

Ive got 2 FI BL 12's fully loaded, a 275 amp alt, and 2 yellow tops. My question is.......would it be better (louder) to run 2 amplifiers linked to the subs? OR would it work better to have an amp per sub? And if i did amp per sub....how would i tune them together without buying anything. Im asking this because ive been looking at this Hifonics BRZ2400 and it looks like a wiener

i wanna see some opinions on yellow top batts vs kinetik? im soon gonna be in the market for 2 new batts(one in front and one in back). you can see what im running in my sig. thanks for any suggestions.

aight i see that AP came out with a new amp the Ap AQX3500.1 anyone have any reliable info on it? does it actually do rated... i have heard good things about the ap3000.1 just curious if would be a good investment if i decided to upgrade my system?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34494_Boss-CE2200M.html I've heard many stories of Boss Audio not putting out the specs they say, but i have a nice build coming up in my uncles ride, my friend had a 1800watt boss 2 channel amp and it sounded pretty good, probably wasnt the watts the specs said though. but anyways, my plan 4 12s. sealed enclosure, subs facing up. they are 200rms each 400 peak. the amp puts out 750rms at 4 ohms. i know it most likely wont, but whats your estimate on the wattage it can put out at 4 ohms? money is tight and im not lookin to spend a whole lot on this, this is a fun cheap project, (the real project will be in my van) this build should…

going for a simple sq based system with components up front and a single diyma 12" in the rear. Looking at a pair of MC300's (150x2 or 500ish bridged) or a pair of Xterminator Xt1600.2's (125x2 or 600ish bridged). the UsAmps are cheaper but they are the lowend line while the M class is the top of line that they offer. What do you guys think?

I recently bought a MMATS 2100.2 thinking it was a 2100 rms at 2ohm amp only to find out it is really a 1550 watt RMS and 2100 watt peak amp. WTF!!!! I am really disappointed about this, I wouldnt think a great company like MMATS would be so misleading. I bought the amp to step up power to my IA Death Penalty, I had a Kicker ZX1500.1. Well when I pulled out the Kicker and replaced it I found to my suprise that the MMATS wasnt as loud as my other amp. The Kicker is adverised as 1500 watts but originally came with a birth sheet showing that it tested arround 1700 watts. So I guess Kicker actually under rates there amps while MMATS advertises 2100 watts and only produces 155…

So I'm looking for a battery ( one 12v ) to run my two Sundown amps (100.4 and saz1000d) and still be able to keep my Dodge Ram functional . Alil advise on what brand and model should i buy for what I'm running? i guess anything down the lines like XSpower, Kinetik, Stinger etc....... thanx

I'm not familiar with them, I see some are JBL also. Someone has a reference 2x75rms that is pretty new and wondering if they suck, so on a scale of 1 to 10 how good are they? Or should I say scale of Pyramid power booster to McIntosh...lol. I just need in the middle or better.