Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so as it is stated i have light dimming. i recently well a few hours ago installed a newish alternator for my 2000 toyota camry the alternator is from a totaled/damaged 2003 toyota highlander which is 130amps rather then the stop 80 amp alternator that came with the camry. so car i did the "big 2 upgrade" which consists of batt + to alt +', batt - to strut tower and the new alternator when i turn the up to where i normally put it with the old one well 5 notchs up the lights dim but if im calculations are correct the newish alt should have enough power to power the subs and the rest of the car no problem. but that is not that case. since the amp gain is less the half way …

Hello! This is my first post here. Crossing my fingers that I'm not breaking any forum rules. I have a 12 inch GCON ordered and the wait is killing me already. I've already purchased an amp and box for this sub and I'd like to have any willing opinions on my choices. The amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43132_Hifonics-GLX1800.1D.html The enclosure: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19279_Belva-Sub-Box-1SV12B-Belva.html A few questions: How did I do? Will this pound like crazy? How much impact will my smaller than suggest enclosure have on the sound? Ported good?How should I wire this beast-sub to this amp? (I'm thinking just running it at 650w @ 4ohms t…

I need help choosing an amplifier for a Kicker CVT 10 that I’m going to purchase soon. But if one 10 isn’t good enough for me I was planning on getting a second one. So what I was wondering is if there is a sub that I can start out with and give it the power the one sub requires and also if I were to wire up a second CVT 10 to the amp, also have those two subs well powered. I’d like to get the most out of my sub(s). So if someone could please advise me on this! I have had a suggestion of getting a Kicker CX600.1. (new model). Which is 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan. TheKicker CVT 10 is RMS: 400 Peak: 800 The reason why I’m getting such a smal…

So, been out of Car Audio for a bit, been wanting to put another small system in, every time something seems to come up.. So I'm trying again... Vehicle: 2005 Chevy Trail Blazer So far I have the following... Pioneer Head unit, Polk Separates in all 4 doors. Parts I have acquired: Sundown 2000D (these Sundowns are are few years old But BNIB) (Needs 200 Amp Ext Fuse) Sundown 125.4 (fuse 30x2) 15" FI BTL (Same with the FI Sub, BNIB) I would like to figure out what all exactly I need to do get and do so the two Amps have plenty of power. No Blinking lights, or any power problems... I was thinking, Update front Batt (not sure what) Mechman Alt (not su…

ok so i have a 2006 chevy colorado and im going to be getting a 270 amp singer alternator that comes with an overdrive pulley that adds 30-40 amps. and im pretty dead set on getting an xs battery for a secondary battery and i was wondering what size or model i should get. and i wanted to keep a battery with top posts under the hood and was wondering if i could go with like an optima yellow top under the hood or if i had another option for under the hood? ill be running a crescendo bc3500 on two fi bl 15s.

ok i have 6 xs d3100s... im gonna charge them all at once cause i dont have access to each battery.... now last time i charged them i used 2 amps which took forever!.... can i charge them with 12 amps ?? i have a schumacher charge that shuts off whens they are fully charged (trickle charge) and doesnt charge higher than 15 volts.... the charger has a 2 amp, 12 amp, and 75 amp charge setting..... the 75 amp is for starting a vehicle with a dead battery..... so i know not to use that one lmao... will i be fine charging with 12 amps ??? this way it wont take days to charge them.... last time using a 2 amp charge it took about a week lol...

Hey guys just trying to get a little info about some electrical from more experienced people. Im looking into getting a new alt, i have a 2005 chevy silverado 5.3L. Now i see iraggi has a 300 amp alt and dc power has a dual bracket kit that comes with a 185 amp alt, all in the same price range which would be best for me? Run a single big alt or have the 185 to the amp? Also i have a xs power d3400 as my starting battery, but i was wondering if i put a 900 cca as my starting battery could i put the xs power in the back and be ok? Cause i read something like you cant have two different sized batterys in the vehicle, i plan to run a crescendo 3500, just trying to see my best…

I have a JX1000/1d and when ever I start my car it works fine green light and music bumpin. I turn the car off to take the bar off, turn it back on and its in protect and wont turn green unless I wait a long time. It only works first start up, I checked the ohms coming from the sub and its a steady 2.0 and also took all the wiring off the amp and put it back on, still nothing. Really pissed off Iv checked everything I can think, anybody have this prob before?

Ordered the Pio AVH-P8400BH 2 Din Deck and the MLA module. Hoping the Pio is a solid performing HU and does pretty good for me with the Ipod connection. Anyone here using one? Price I got was 475.00 new from Crutchfield with free priority shipping. Also ordered the MLA module from Missing Link, to help with my voltage maxing at 13.8. Would love to see it go up in the 14.8-15.1 range, should be good for my 3 D3400s. My EA Alt is installed and sitting at constant 13.8-14.1 so I know it's the car limiting the charging range. Should be fun playing when I get back from business. Hopefully my second sub will be there when I get back from business, and all should be good.

I currently have a Mechman 270a in my 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4 and it's going through belts like crazy. I have checked pulley alignment, tension, and have done everything I can think of to solve it. This only happens when the alternator is under a load when I play my beats. I have roughly 600 amps of draw with nearly 12,000 watts of battery reserve. It does the squealing the worse at idle, and actually tears these belts at higher engine speeds. I use the good Gates belts, but they don't last more than a few weeks. I have had trouble with this alternator several times and had to send it back three times, and swapping these belts, and especially the alternator in my car is a H…

I've been in the market for a new head unit with a screen. I can't get a double din so i would have to get a flip out. Multiple have people have told me to not get a flip out because of my subs. They said subs will greatly damage them. Any truth to this?

Hi guys im be in a process of putting 2 dc xl on 2 aq 2200s strapped and my h/o is a 125amp if i get a xs d7500 will be enough for my aq2200s or get a 270 amp alt and d3100 be good im low on cash right now thats y im asking if a xs d7500 be enough help

ive got some knu concept 1/0 guage wire and i was planning on running it up to the engine battery cuz i figured that would be one of the best grounds i could find but its about 7-10 feet away from my amp and ive been looking around and i read that really long amp grounds were a bad idea? is it true?

Hi I have (2) hifonics brz1200 each on its own DD 2512c (D2) @ 1ohm I want around 1/3 more power as i think the subs can handle it What do you think about bridging those two amps? What kind of ohm load would i see? What would be the power benefits? What would be the dangers? If the risk is too high to try then I wont, because these amps are pretty much sold

Fi Q 15 Cadence zrs 7000d at 1 ohm, specs below: 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 500 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 900 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts IHF-2002 Peak Power: 1 x 2600 Watts Max @ 1 ohm Two Z7000D bridged together - 1x 2600 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm Frequency Response: 10Hz - 400Hz S/N Ratio: >100 db Damping Factor: 100 @ 100Hz Minimum THD: <0.03% Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts Dimensions: 12.6" x 9.4" x 2.4" Stock alternator (150amp) and battery I had this system setup with no big-3 and stock alt and battery for about a month before the battery started showing white corrosion on the terminals as if it were over heating…

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Looking for a bit of advice on purchasing a new amp/amps. Ill be running a pair of D2 crossfire XSV2 15s tuned around 30hz. My dilemma is whether I would get more out of (ie more power, less rise): A pair of 2.5k amps (probably Skar 2500), bridged and wired to 1ohm each OR A single 5k amp run at .5ohm Electrical is: 2 runs 1/0 OFC (one is knu, other is memphis) and 1/0 Big 3 Kinetic HC2400 up front 3 deka group 34 AGMs in the back (55ah a piece, 750cca) 270a-320a altenator (will be added after amps) Thanks in advance for any help!

I finally installed the stetsom 7KD (1 ohm 12 volt) and it ran very well but just yesterday it began going into protect.It throws a protect with one blink and the manual tells me that its a short circuit or below impedance.I'm running the amp at a half ohm nominal. It starts doing this when i roll into heavy bass. I triple checked all of my connections and everything is solid, voltage is in mid 13's when it cuts off.

I'm in the market for new alternators and I was talking to a guy about the Mechman 370a units. he was telling me they would never put out advertised amperage and they wouldn't even turn on at idle speed. I think its bs, but do any of you have experience with these alts?

ok so im getting two fi bl 15's and i really dont know which way to go for amps. i was thinking of the crescendo bc3500 or the rockford fosgate T1500-1bdCP, i would have gone with the T2500 but i dont want to pay 1600 for an amp. so which would be better the crescendo or the T1500??

I just installed my EA HO Alt and this thing is performing very well. Limiting factor with installing it is the factory limiter at 14.1 volts. I spoke with Nate and he said in order to get the most out of it 14.8 -15 volts I would have to return it so he could adjust the regulation and then run it using the external regulation. No big deal, but my question is this. How much of a difference would my system notice running at 14.8 volts than at 14.1 volts? I'm thinking it should be minimal, but I wanted to ask others and get some input. Thanks.

Lately my cars "radio" fuses have been blowing not the fuse on the hu but the cars radio fuse. First time the fuse blew when I first turned the car on.. Which was weird since I never had a fuse go out on me since I had the hu a year or so now. So I went and pick up more fuses (8amp Volvos standard) put one in worked fine at idle went down the road turned the hu volume up half way and just as the bass hit the fuse popped!. So the next day I took the hu out looked around checked ground power etc nothing was wrong ( besides a big mess Of wires and rcas) placed another fuse in with the hu out and banged on it for 20mins zero problems. Put it all back in. Worked perfect for 4…

I have a Zcon 12 on a BC2000. I am unsure on how to set everything properly. I set gains by ear and it has always worked out for me. Now how do I tune everything? I have the power and ground of the lc2i at the battery in back. I have left and right inputs tapped into the rear speakers. There are 3 dials. I don't know where to start. I tried messing with it last night and couldn't get it right. If anyone that has/had this can help me that'd be great. Thanks in advance.

I bought a singer alternator from a guy and it was for my trailblazer the alternator fits but my plug on the alt is a 2 pin and the alt I bought has the four pin plug what should I do

$450 amp budget, which way would you go? I could stretch to $500 w/shipping but that's it for now Im running (2) digital designs 2512c and they are laughing at my (2) brz1200 @1ohm ea 3 yellow top optima, 220amp alt I'm not a SQ critic so it doesn't have to be Rockford, ect. I want power over quality since I'm only spending so much this time around Thanks and any input is appreciated