Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

Ok so this kid at school was like his friends dad was an EE, and he could wire shit up real tight like, like a ps2 and xbox mod ....but then i ask him does he have his # and he's like no, man i coulda got the hook up right there, but anyway, where can i get an amp modded at?????

It's been a while since I have posted on here...busy busy busy. Anyways, I'm not a new kid on the block when it comes to car audio...I was an installer for over 6 years and play with it as much as I can now. I am requesting some insight from somebody with good experience in chasing down engine noise, because I'm at whits end!! Setup: 2004 Audi S4 Factory deck, using the common ground preout on it (hard wired into rca's) Alpine PXE-H650 processor 3 Sony XM2252HX amps (1 front, 1 rear, 1 sub) Image Dynamics CX62 components front/rear 2 Polk DB12 (circa 1999, running free air in rear deck) SO, I think I have isolated it down to a bad capacitor in the power supply on the fact…

what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half. i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn …

Linertec BASSPRO-4000 Mono 4000w Amplifier Digital Class-D Mono Block Amplifier Stable into 1 ohm load workable PWM Mosfet power supply Input sensitivity (gain) control variable 24db octave crossover slope Variable Low Pass filter (Lpf) Variable bass boost Variable subsonic filter Multi-way protection circuitry (thermal / over current / speaker short / speaker DC Protection Tested voltage & THD : 14.4v & less than 1% THD Operating voltage : DC 10v - 15.5v Max Power : 4000w ( 1 x 4000w ) Rated power output RMS @ 1ohm : 1000w x 1 RMS @ 2ohm : 660w x 1 RMS @ 4ohm : 380w x 1 Signal to Noise Ratio : >90db Low pass crossover : 35hz - 300hz High Pass Crosso…

Im not necessarily in need of a high output alt right now; however, I would like to make the purchase while I have some funds so I dont end up screwin myself over later on if I decide to upgrade the system. I know that many on the forum will recommend DC power, Mechman etc. but I rather not spend $600 on an alt if possible. After searching around the web for a bit I came across qualitypowerauto.com. I searched my specific vehicle and noticed that they have an option of a 200 amp alt for $285, an unbeatable price as far as I know. My question is, could it be possible that this is a legitimate alternator and wont turn out to be a waste of money? The websites notes that the…

I’m trying to see if someone can answer this question for me in simple terms. Basically I want to know what is going to happen to my signal as it’s going to be transferred and how multiple equalizers, crossovers, and gains will affect it. So basically, my head unit has a built in equalizer and crossover (they’re not that great though.) From my head unit the signal will go to an external equalizer I have. From the equalizer the signal is going to go into a stetsom 3way 6 channel crossover. The crossover is a crossover (obviously). From the stetsom crossover the signal will go into my full range amps. I have 2 amps, one for mids and one for highs. Now to make things even …

hey whats up i have 4 kicker 15 solo barics in a 13.5 cubic ft ported box with 2 1000.1 rockford power amps, im looking for a really good processor, the best one on the market, what would you guys sugest

Anyone Know What Kind Of Amp This Is? Or Could Anyone Link Me In The Right Direction. Thanx

I have done a few searches and have come up empty. Does anyone on this forum have and experience with this? I know it has been done several times before. To be more specific I want to use just the screen from the i-pad 3 as a monitor. If anyone has done something similar before please share some of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks.

hey everyone i am having trouble setting my gain on my us amps xt1600.2. i am using a dmm to set it and have discovered that i need to come up with a 66.3v reading at 1100 watts rms and with my sub wired at 4 ohms. i am running my headunit at about 25 which is about as loud as i want to go because the door speakers are starting to distort and sound like ass but when i do this i am only coming up with a voltage of about 20v. this is with the gain cranked all the way and my question is could this hurt anything? since im not even close to the 66.3v i am supposed to be at (someone might want to double check that for me..i would appreciate it!) could i possibly be doing an…

im gonna be running 4 sa-12's, my electrical consists of 180 amp dc power alt (coming very soon), big 3, kinetic hc2000 under the hood and a hc600 in the back(all i could fit) so with that electrical, i need an amp that will power those sa-12's @1ohm. im thinking maybe 2500-3000 watts. has to be fairly small...maybe like 12 wide by like 22 long or so. i was gonna get the AP3000 but i dont have room for it unless i mount it on the backside of my box and i really dont want to do that. so any suggestions for amps that fit that criteria that will run with little to no voltage drop on my electrical in the 350 dollar range? i was thinking AQ2200D but i think the sa-12's would l…

So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)

When I get my system together, I'd like to have some valuable time with an RTA to get the EQ (PXA-H701) setup right. Has anyone tried using this? Phonic PAA3 Handheld RTA Its not for setting up a competition vehicle or anything, but I'd like to know if it is good enough for me to get my eq flat with pink noise and I'll adjust by ear from there. Your thoughts?

2001 Chevy Impala. A friend's car. Aftermarket alternator rated at 220 max, 105 at idle. Overdrive pulley. Had his mechanic install the big 3 with 1/0. Optima Yellowtop 1050 amps. He only has one amp right now. 2 gauge wire running back to a JL 1000/1v2, 2 farad capacitor, and a 500 amp dry cell, running a JL 13W7. All of this was put in his car professionally... which could be good or bad. His headlights still dim, especially on the heavier individual beats. It's my understanding that the ground wires on these cars connect to a thin piece of metal that's simply folded onto another one, and therefore can't really flow that much current. ...meaning that running a dedic…

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

Anyone know of good amps around 500W or so

I have a Profike HA740 4 channel amp with Rockford fosgate components on the rear and two focal midrange on the front all at 4 ohms. Maxed the gains out to all four channels and I have no clipping or distortion. Checked it with a local shop and they said no clipping at all. Profile amps equal amazing. They are now out of business though:( Messed the title up, I meant HA740.

Ok I am about to work on the charging system now and need some ideas. I have upgraded the alternator to 220 and still need to change the three wires. I will be running a few batteries in the back of the car that are different from the cars battery. I am using a stinger master for the car now and have 3 SVR80 in the car for the system I do have a 15f cap as well but not sure if I need to use it. Can someone help me out here a little so I get this done right. Thanks PT

Narrowed head unit selection to 3 choices.. Clarion vz409 Alpine 9887 Alpine ida-x305 Opinions on these 3? really liking the clarion on sale for $379.. although the 9887/ida-x305 can be had for $265 Will be running 2 ED amps, ed 9.65 comps and a 13A sub ported at 30hz

i have a jvc kwnx700, a TEAC 200 watt two channel, and a set of phoenix gold components. Recently, I bought a Fi Bl 12" , a sundown Saz-1500d, and an optima yellow top for the trunk. I wired up the batt with 1/0 welding cable and tested my high amp. it worked great. I hooked up the sub amp with 1/0 and using the old remote turn on from my previous sub set up. It didn't kick on. I then tried my remote turn on that i used on my highs. it still didn't power up. i then went back up front and found my radio off. that remote wire was spliced into the power for my HU. Could I have caused a short by yanking on it? Why wouldn't the sub amp kick on? any help would be greatly apprec…

Wasup SSA! Sold my HFI300D's & bought a Cresendo BC5500D & I need to know what all equipment (Electrical) will I need to run 6300+ rms all day everyday? What would be best between the XS Power D3100 & the Kinetik HC2400? How many batteries should I get, & what size & how many H/O alternators? I will be running amp @ .67ohms. Thanks SSA!

so i am thinkin of using an excessive amperage alternator and would like to know how many of you use their alts and how good are they.... thanxxx

I've been running my 2 Dcons off of 300 watts (total) for a few months now, and I guess my ears are now getting used to the volume. Soooooo......time for more power! I've run across a Zapco Reference 750 that a guy has for $100. Looks to me like a great fit wattage-wise, as it will push 375 per channel or 750 bridged. I just want to know how these amps measure up, as I've never heard of them. Google searches seem to bring up positive reviews, but I'd like to hear from you guys who may have had experience with them. Thanks in advance!

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.