Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

Has anyone used a Duracell Platinum AGM battery before? It's the largest AGM I can fit under my hood, 94r. Sam's club has them for $169; http://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-grp-94r-h7-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510086.ip?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default Ford put the smallest battery possible in my car to save weight, I'm thinking they counterbalanced that by using a 150A alternator. There are two pieces that hold the battery in place that, once removed, accept a 94r. Should I go for this battery or does anyone have any other suggestions?

what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half. i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn …

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

hey whats up i have 4 kicker 15 solo barics in a 13.5 cubic ft ported box with 2 1000.1 rockford power amps, im looking for a really good processor, the best one on the market, what would you guys sugest

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use

I have a Kenwood x793 HU. I love the features on it. I use a USB 16gig thumb drive 95% of the time. I do compete. I am currently at around 146-147 db. The problem is the faceplate shuts off at high volume. This poses a problem as you can't turn the volume down or anything when it goes off. If I press in the faceplate it will not shut off. My question is has anyone ever had this issue and if so how did you fix it? I thought about soldering jumper wires from the faceplate to the HU. I never take the faceplate off. I'm not sure this would work or not. Thanks

So I bought my Head Unit, Pioneer DEH-P4200ub. Bought all the installation gear I needed. I connected the wires correctly and when I plug everything in the unit turns on but the speakers aren't working. With the factory radio they work fine. I called best buy and the dude said that because I have onstar I need a special harness that's 100 bucks, and if I don't use it that the door chime won't work and the check engine light will come on. So my question is do I really need this special harness to make the speakers work as well? Is there any way I can bypass this? Or am I just not hooking it up right?

Over the last month I've been prepping my car to power the Ethos I have on order. So far I've replaced the front battery with an Optima Yellow Top Group 34/78, done the Big 3 in 1/0 ofc, installed a 220 amp HO alt and made a positive and negative run of 1/0 to the rear (positive fused within 18 inches of post with 250 amp anl fuses). For now the rear battery is not installed. I have the negative taped off and the positive run stops at the rear fuse holder. Over the weekend I decided to hook up the amp that I plan on using for the front stage to power my entire system I'm currently running. It's a Hifonics (I know some of you are cringing right now) X14 Brutus X1200.4. Pow…

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

ive read afew "big three how to guides" on sites and forums. guess i can start with what i am runing in the car. kenwood excelon x10d -- 600rms tsunami 1.2 farad cap **adding small 2 channel no more then 250rms (total)** 1 run- kicker 4 gauge battery---- car was baught used. evidence of this being a second battery however it is not a deep cycle i believe the stock alt is like 105 amps (not sure though) ok now with the questions. some one mensioned that a cap isnt needed becasue its just putts a bigger strain on the electrical system. however after installing the cap i noticed better quality proformance from my subs. according to some websites i have read a cap can …

Anyone know of good amps around 500W or so

Would like to know what you guys prefer and why. The HU seems to have more precise control and you can change the slope as well. If using the HU crossovers, should the amp be set to full?

NooB's, DO NOT COMPREHEND THIS POST. Under 1 ohm coverage is void from Z series Sundown amps so no warranty is implied in this post! Ok, my question I understand that the warranty is void by doing this but throwing that out the window, i know it's still possible so what i want to know is, when is the amp not safe? Let's say i got 2 SAZ-1500ds strapped and ran a load at 0.93 ohms. Warranted coverage is no lower than 2 ohms strapped. I've talked to a manufacturer before and he said about all his amp returns are due to people not knowing what they are doing when they run too low of a load. What i want to know is, what makes it "ok" to run below that load? I keep seeing …

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

So something has gone wrong with my system and I am not sure exactly what it is... My setup is... -12" Icon -AQ 1200d; installed with 1/0 gauge wire and then 12 gauge for the speaker wire. -MY car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and the alternator is stock.. it's either 90a or 120a but i'm not sure -I am using the AQ gain knob and I have a stinger volt meter.. I had everything installed at a local shop and it was VERY LOUD.. it was so loud that I was afraid to even push it for the little time it was working right, so I don't think any problems have been caused by listening to it too loud. About 6 days after it was installed I was driving around and I noticed on one song the bass was …

This is the inside of my JBL px300.4. I have narrowed down the noise in my system (HISS) to the amplifier itself by 1) Using muting plugs 2) Removeing the amp from the vehicle and using a "test bench" if you will and a test speaker to find the same noise. It's a low hiss with the vehicle OFF and ear right up close to speakers. By "test bench" I mean I connected the amp right by my battery with the ground going straight to the battery and used a test speaker and adjusted every setting on the amp with no change - gains at zero - no rca's connected. So I took off the cover not the entire sink case and looked around. Here are the two things odd I found. I'm no expert and if t…

Narrowed head unit selection to 3 choices.. Clarion vz409 Alpine 9887 Alpine ida-x305 Opinions on these 3? really liking the clarion on sale for $379.. although the 9887/ida-x305 can be had for $265 Will be running 2 ED amps, ed 9.65 comps and a 13A sub ported at 30hz

I have done a few searches and have come up empty. Does anyone on this forum have and experience with this? I know it has been done several times before. To be more specific I want to use just the screen from the i-pad 3 as a monitor. If anyone has done something similar before please share some of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks.

Hi everyone i was wondering is the cadance zrs-7000d amp any good i remember back in the day the older one's were good because i had the z7000 the chrome one that put out 1800watts at 1ohm and i was not sure if the zrs are any good ?

hey everyone i am having trouble setting my gain on my us amps xt1600.2. i am using a dmm to set it and have discovered that i need to come up with a 66.3v reading at 1100 watts rms and with my sub wired at 4 ohms. i am running my headunit at about 25 which is about as loud as i want to go because the door speakers are starting to distort and sound like ass but when i do this i am only coming up with a voltage of about 20v. this is with the gain cranked all the way and my question is could this hurt anything? since im not even close to the 66.3v i am supposed to be at (someone might want to double check that for me..i would appreciate it!) could i possibly be doing an…

Ok, I have a MMATS DHCx 2200.1 hooked up to 4 single voicecoil kicker comp c12's 8 ohm each for a final load of 2 ohms. The amp is a mono channel. The problem is, sometimes when I get in the car and turn the radio on the amplifier goes strait into protect. You can still hear it playing at a very low wolume ie. 2 or 3 bars on the radio but if you turn it up any louder the sound fades away and sometimes I can turn it on and it plays fine. It usually doesn't do it unless the car has been sitting for a while. When it does this, the only way I've found to get it back playing correctly is to unhook the load from the amp turn the power off and turn it back on and reconnect t…

my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

Budget is 200 my eye is aimed on the crescendo 600.1 symphony between 600-750 rms is the power im looking for at 1ohm. Other amp was a ppi p1000.1 then my old faithful amp of choice mb quart(One of the series really haven't looked deeply into them.) Any other options I should look at for amps? Only thing im looking for is a efficient amp and the crescendos states 97% at 2ohms gets hot in the trunk in SC my father needs something that can pack a punch for a hour in the temps. Other information amp will be powering sa-8's V1. Electrical is strong for this power draw.

My friend has this amplifier, and I've been looking on various websites, and everywhere says it does 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms, anyone know if this is true? Because I can get this amplifier for very cheap, it has a problem though.... It doesn't turn off. As soon as we connected the negative wire, it turned on, remote wire wasn't even hooked into the amplifier yet. But anyways, does this thing really do 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms?