Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

I have a Kenwood x793 HU. I love the features on it. I use a USB 16gig thumb drive 95% of the time. I do compete. I am currently at around 146-147 db. The problem is the faceplate shuts off at high volume. This poses a problem as you can't turn the volume down or anything when it goes off. If I press in the faceplate it will not shut off. My question is has anyone ever had this issue and if so how did you fix it? I thought about soldering jumper wires from the faceplate to the HU. I never take the faceplate off. I'm not sure this would work or not. Thanks

my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

Ok, I have a MMATS DHCx 2200.1 hooked up to 4 single voicecoil kicker comp c12's 8 ohm each for a final load of 2 ohms. The amp is a mono channel. The problem is, sometimes when I get in the car and turn the radio on the amplifier goes strait into protect. You can still hear it playing at a very low wolume ie. 2 or 3 bars on the radio but if you turn it up any louder the sound fades away and sometimes I can turn it on and it plays fine. It usually doesn't do it unless the car has been sitting for a while. When it does this, the only way I've found to get it back playing correctly is to unhook the load from the amp turn the power off and turn it back on and reconnect t…

Hi everyone i was wondering is the cadance zrs-7000d amp any good i remember back in the day the older one's were good because i had the z7000 the chrome one that put out 1800watts at 1ohm and i was not sure if the zrs are any good ?

So I bought my Head Unit, Pioneer DEH-P4200ub. Bought all the installation gear I needed. I connected the wires correctly and when I plug everything in the unit turns on but the speakers aren't working. With the factory radio they work fine. I called best buy and the dude said that because I have onstar I need a special harness that's 100 bucks, and if I don't use it that the door chime won't work and the check engine light will come on. So my question is do I really need this special harness to make the speakers work as well? Is there any way I can bypass this? Or am I just not hooking it up right?

ive read afew "big three how to guides" on sites and forums. guess i can start with what i am runing in the car. kenwood excelon x10d -- 600rms tsunami 1.2 farad cap **adding small 2 channel no more then 250rms (total)** 1 run- kicker 4 gauge battery---- car was baught used. evidence of this being a second battery however it is not a deep cycle i believe the stock alt is like 105 amps (not sure though) ok now with the questions. some one mensioned that a cap isnt needed becasue its just putts a bigger strain on the electrical system. however after installing the cap i noticed better quality proformance from my subs. according to some websites i have read a cap can …

hey whats up i have 4 kicker 15 solo barics in a 13.5 cubic ft ported box with 2 1000.1 rockford power amps, im looking for a really good processor, the best one on the market, what would you guys sugest

Anyone know of good amps around 500W or so

ok i accedently hooked the rem turn on power to the output of the radio, and now no sound comes from it :angry: I beleive i have fucked up the internal amp on it...does anyone know a way to get a new one or have this fixed..

im deciding between these two decks for awhile now and i wanted to know who has which and what they like about it. I can get the x889 for $218 or i could pay an extra $100 and get the pio 860mp.Now ive heard that the pio is alot easier to use and might have a better eq and other stuff but is it better then the x889 and worth the extra $100???

My friend has this amplifier, and I've been looking on various websites, and everywhere says it does 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms, anyone know if this is true? Because I can get this amplifier for very cheap, it has a problem though.... It doesn't turn off. As soon as we connected the negative wire, it turned on, remote wire wasn't even hooked into the amplifier yet. But anyways, does this thing really do 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms?

Over the last month I've been prepping my car to power the Ethos I have on order. So far I've replaced the front battery with an Optima Yellow Top Group 34/78, done the Big 3 in 1/0 ofc, installed a 220 amp HO alt and made a positive and negative run of 1/0 to the rear (positive fused within 18 inches of post with 250 amp anl fuses). For now the rear battery is not installed. I have the negative taped off and the positive run stops at the rear fuse holder. Over the weekend I decided to hook up the amp that I plan on using for the front stage to power my entire system I'm currently running. It's a Hifonics (I know some of you are cringing right now) X14 Brutus X1200.4. Pow…

I kow that I've asked some of these questions before, but a few ideas came to my head this morning since I'm not satisfied with the results. Equipment: 10" AA Arsenal Sealed enclosure Factory Headunit 1 Stinger LOC 1 ZED Minilith Here's the deal. Everything is connected well. I have a good ground, wires, and RCA's. The sub is getting a bit of a warble sound to it a low volumes (I'm sure it is still there when the volume is up,but the music is covering it up). In order for me to get any output in this sucker, the gain has to be almost all the way up and I don't like that. Something is wrong. Here is what I've been thinking... I really think that a four channel LOC would be…

Budget is 200 my eye is aimed on the crescendo 600.1 symphony between 600-750 rms is the power im looking for at 1ohm. Other amp was a ppi p1000.1 then my old faithful amp of choice mb quart(One of the series really haven't looked deeply into them.) Any other options I should look at for amps? Only thing im looking for is a efficient amp and the crescendos states 97% at 2ohms gets hot in the trunk in SC my father needs something that can pack a punch for a hour in the temps. Other information amp will be powering sa-8's V1. Electrical is strong for this power draw.

is one powermaster 3100 in the front cell enough for one saz 3000d? or will i need one powermaster in the front cell, and one in the back of the vehicle. i should be pulling around 2000 watt rms

I can pick these suckers up for 195 each locally, 12v and something like 1200cca ea, anyone every used these before? https://m.interstatebatteries.com/product/26-4163958589-4163958502-2147384763-4294492278-4251616327-4163992330-4163958586-4163958484-2147384903/8D-MHD Considering two for my truck because the price is DUMB considering they're 130lb deep cycles.

im gonna be running 4 sa-12's, my electrical consists of 180 amp dc power alt (coming very soon), big 3, kinetic hc2000 under the hood and a hc600 in the back(all i could fit) so with that electrical, i need an amp that will power those sa-12's @1ohm. im thinking maybe 2500-3000 watts. has to be fairly small...maybe like 12 wide by like 22 long or so. i was gonna get the AP3000 but i dont have room for it unless i mount it on the backside of my box and i really dont want to do that. so any suggestions for amps that fit that criteria that will run with little to no voltage drop on my electrical in the 350 dollar range? i was thinking AQ2200D but i think the sa-12's would l…

Narrowed head unit selection to 3 choices.. Clarion vz409 Alpine 9887 Alpine ida-x305 Opinions on these 3? really liking the clarion on sale for $379.. although the 9887/ida-x305 can be had for $265 Will be running 2 ED amps, ed 9.65 comps and a 13A sub ported at 30hz

i was wondering whats the correct way to connect a audiocontrol dqxs & audiocontrol epicenter since i was told to put my epicenter before the dqxs and not after dqxs can some correct this for me please

Recently my Orion Amp I had, pushin a Soundqubed HDS3.1-15" rated 1200RMS, crapped out! I'm lookin for replacement that's affordable & CAPABLE of rated 1200RMS needed to really experience my Soundqubed. I paid $125 for my Orion 2500.1D & it was rated 1200RMS @1ohm but I doubt it ever made that. I thought 1200RMS for $125 seemed too good to be true. I know I'm not goin back that route, so I'm curious of opinions on Amps under the $200 mark that I can afford & hopefully won't crap out after 9mons like my Orion & hopefully produce 1200RMS. I have a few options/manufacturers that I'm looking at that I'll list, plz give any opinions you have bout these …

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting anoth…

NooB's, DO NOT COMPREHEND THIS POST. Under 1 ohm coverage is void from Z series Sundown amps so no warranty is implied in this post! Ok, my question I understand that the warranty is void by doing this but throwing that out the window, i know it's still possible so what i want to know is, when is the amp not safe? Let's say i got 2 SAZ-1500ds strapped and ran a load at 0.93 ohms. Warranted coverage is no lower than 2 ohms strapped. I've talked to a manufacturer before and he said about all his amp returns are due to people not knowing what they are doing when they run too low of a load. What i want to know is, what makes it "ok" to run below that load? I keep seeing …