Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So something has gone wrong with my system and I am not sure exactly what it is... My setup is... -12" Icon -AQ 1200d; installed with 1/0 gauge wire and then 12 gauge for the speaker wire. -MY car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and the alternator is stock.. it's either 90a or 120a but i'm not sure -I am using the AQ gain knob and I have a stinger volt meter.. I had everything installed at a local shop and it was VERY LOUD.. it was so loud that I was afraid to even push it for the little time it was working right, so I don't think any problems have been caused by listening to it too loud. About 6 days after it was installed I was driving around and I noticed on one song the bass was …

So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)

To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs…

2001 Chevy Impala. A friend's car. Aftermarket alternator rated at 220 max, 105 at idle. Overdrive pulley. Had his mechanic install the big 3 with 1/0. Optima Yellowtop 1050 amps. He only has one amp right now. 2 gauge wire running back to a JL 1000/1v2, 2 farad capacitor, and a 500 amp dry cell, running a JL 13W7. All of this was put in his car professionally... which could be good or bad. His headlights still dim, especially on the heavier individual beats. It's my understanding that the ground wires on these cars connect to a thin piece of metal that's simply folded onto another one, and therefore can't really flow that much current. ...meaning that running a dedic…

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

Im trying to decide witch line driver to get for my system but I've never had one so irk were to start. Im thinking to go with the one rockford fosegate makes. Does any one have any experience. With it or one you think is better?

Round about where is the 30hz mark on the SSF adjustment?And the 80hz mark on the LPF

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let …

like the topic title says i just bought a used dcon. but im looking to get an amp to power it what is the best amp for the money to power this 12" single ohm sub? im on a tight budget here so what would be the cheapest but good amp i can use any help is appreciated.

Hey guys, I have an 03 BUICK CENTURY v6. I recently put in a 12 in SSA GCON . Built a custom box 2.25 net @33 hz slot ported. Ran all ofc knuconcepts 4 gauge. Monster rca's . Active loc and factory head unit. Amp is a Rockford prime 750.1 running at 1ohm into the GCON... Now u know what I got, well last nite I got her all hooked up, went to test her out, and every time my bass hits my headlights blink with the bass! I hate cars with systems that do that... Can anyone tell me why?? I was told I would be fine running factory elec with 750 watts? Even less actually because I barely had the gain up cuz my GCON is brand new! Even at low-moderate volume it is doing it..…

Has anyone had any experience with Shruiken AGM batteries? Can they be used as main battery replacement? Or are they just for auxiliary use only for audio?

I have a really bad alternator whine. I have a JVC HU with only ONE RCA output. I'm running 2 separate amplifiers: 1 for Sub, 1 for Mids/Highs. Since my unit only has 1 pre-out, I bought some RCA splitters and just ran 2 sets of RCA's from the HU to the rear, sharing the signal between the 2 amps. I then found that there was quite a bit of whine.. However, when I would unplug the RCA's from the bass amp, the whine would disappear. "Ok, bad cable." So I switched the RCA's to see if that was the case, to find that there was still a whine whenever the bass amp RCA's were in. Which makes no sense because the signal plays fine from the mid/high amp without the bass amp RCA's i…

just wondering what rca cables people recommend when it comes to price and performance?

Has anyone had any experience with this amp? Im looking for loud and cheap. It says 1800@1 , dont know how accurate it is though. It will be put on an 18" HC once I get it reconed. My Goal is loud, not daily driver just one loud burp machine. Will this amp suffice or should I look into something along the Hifonics line? My Goal is 145 to start with.

I have a pretty simple question regarding use of the remote gain knob for my SAX-1200D. Say I turn the gain on my amp all the way up to max. Obviously not recommended. However, if my remote gain is only set to... lets say 1/4 of the way up, would my sub still be at risk of high clipping and bad distortion ? From what I've read, the remote gain is just what it's name implies, a quick and easy way to turn up or down the gain without having to fiddle with the amp itself. So if that's the case, even if the amps gain is set to max but the remote only 1/4 the way up, it should be the same as running the amp itself at 1/4 gain, correct ? Now I've been testing this out la…

Hey guys. I just finished my system and I used a digital distribution block. This one: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D It stays on (Displays voltage), even when the car is off. I thought it would have had an automatic shut off, but I guess since it's directly connected to the battery it stays on? Can anyone confirm. Just seems weird..

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

It's been a while since I have posted on here...busy busy busy. Anyways, I'm not a new kid on the block when it comes to car audio...I was an installer for over 6 years and play with it as much as I can now. I am requesting some insight from somebody with good experience in chasing down engine noise, because I'm at whits end!! Setup: 2004 Audi S4 Factory deck, using the common ground preout on it (hard wired into rca's) Alpine PXE-H650 processor 3 Sony XM2252HX amps (1 front, 1 rear, 1 sub) Image Dynamics CX62 components front/rear 2 Polk DB12 (circa 1999, running free air in rear deck) SO, I think I have isolated it down to a bad capacitor in the power supply on the fact…

Looking at the KDC-X792, looks like its got all the right features. 3x4v preouts, USB/iPod connection, aux connection, 2nd aux option, PAC wire, attenuator, 24 bit DAC, and the oh-so-handy Attenuator aka "Oh s... a cop" button. I like how it looks, and it sounds like I could integrate it well into my future car, with the USB jack replacing the stock iPod connector, and rewiring the stock 3.5mm AUX input to go to the HU. Anyone have any experience with the Excelon HU, especially the 79x series? SonicElectronix has it for $229. Your thoughts on Kenwood in general? The Alpines don't really float my boat with all the buttons bunched up on the side.

Hello all, Quick question about wire gauges. I did some research and found Recommended Power and Ground Cable Size so think I should be okay, but wanted to check in with this community first. Currently, I have 1/0 power cable running from the battery to the back of my truck. It hooks into a distro block and from that block I have two 4 gauge wire roughly ~2 feet or less connecting to two amps. One of them is 1000rms mono amp, and the other is a 100.2 amp for my front speakers. If I upgrade the 1000rms amp to 1500rms, will the 4 gauge wire be able to handle the extra power since it is only a very short distance? The ground for the 1000rms amp is also ~2 feet…

both are rated at about the same at all ohm levels, and are priced the same. any reason to chose on over the other?

Though I have a ton of old Sony ES head gear in my collection, I have decided to go modern for my wife's ride, a 2003 Aviator. I am pretty much sold on a touch screen double din unit, but I have been out of the "game" for so long that I really dont know what is "quality" anymore. I have been looking hard at the Alpine INA-W900BT.....but it only has 2volt outs??? I plan on keeping the rest of the system stock for now, definitely want to retain steering wheel controls(I know the Alpine requires an additional module). Would eventually like to go with a full blown SQ all active system, so I want to plan for the future. Reliability is must as well.... My question is....w…

pretty much straight foward, I am getting 2 Q 15's and I am up in the air between these 2 amps, they are both around the same price and I was wondering some of your opinions on which will push/sound the best with the 15's. Also what is the BP option when you order the 15's? Thx Josh

I love my 80prs as far as features go. Lots of control with it. Is there any double din touch screen hu's out there capable of processing? Looking to put one in my 03 Tahoe.

I do not want to run an amp @ 1/2 ohm. I have two dual 2 subs. I can get a Massive P3000.1 for $618.99, bnib, but it has to come over the border, so I'm not sure what border fees will be and stuff. MA Audio HK4000D http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14753 MA Audio HK802SX http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14738 I've heard both of these are power hogs.. I was thinking of going with a 200 amp alternator, and some extra batteries, would this be enough? I haven't found the batteries yet. I could also buy two SAZ-1500Ds, old heat sink design from dB-r. However that is really more than I'm wanting to spend. What else is out there?