Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a Profike HA740 4 channel amp with Rockford fosgate components on the rear and two focal midrange on the front all at 4 ohms. Maxed the gains out to all four channels and I have no clipping or distortion. Checked it with a local shop and they said no clipping at all. Profile amps equal amazing. They are now out of business though:( Messed the title up, I meant HA740.

Firs off, IF YOUR GOING TO JUST TELL ME IDK WHAT IM DOING, THEN JUST LEAVE. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR IT. IM LEARNING. (and you know who you are) ok. so as most of u have seen in my other thread, i have just added a seconed battery. only problem is that after playing for 3 or 4 mins, my volt meter and stuff goes back to the way it was befor. goes crazy when bass hits. So im going to do the big 3. i got to looking at my alternator yesterday and my wire going from my alternator goes to my fuse box. not to my battery. so what do i do? should i still updrade it, or just leave it and do the rest? any HELP is appreciated guys. Thanks

Im trying to decide witch line driver to get for my system but I've never had one so irk were to start. Im thinking to go with the one rockford fosegate makes. Does any one have any experience. With it or one you think is better?

hi, a week ago i decided try to make my Polk MM6501 active. all was going well until i went for a drive around the block and i noticed alternator whine. i am using my alpine 9887 for the processing and my sax100.4 for the amp. and then i have Monster 402 series RCA connecting the two. Now i am having trouble finding out the Cause. i re grounded the head unit to a better spot. I tightened my ground for the amp as tight as i could. i replaced the RCA's with some 8 dollar ones from walmart. and i still have it. and it is only my rear/Highs that have the whine. and i don't really want to have to add a filter because i heard that it affects the quality of the signal…

my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

I can pick these suckers up for 195 each locally, 12v and something like 1200cca ea, anyone every used these before? https://m.interstatebatteries.com/product/26-4163958589-4163958502-2147384763-4294492278-4251616327-4163992330-4163958586-4163958484-2147384903/8D-MHD Considering two for my truck because the price is DUMB considering they're 130lb deep cycles.

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

I love my 80prs as far as features go. Lots of control with it. Is there any double din touch screen hu's out there capable of processing? Looking to put one in my 03 Tahoe.

Hey guys. I just finished my system and I used a digital distribution block. This one: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D It stays on (Displays voltage), even when the car is off. I thought it would have had an automatic shut off, but I guess since it's directly connected to the battery it stays on? Can anyone confirm. Just seems weird..

I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output. I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA. The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts. So, first question: How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RC…

Okay heres the deal.. i should within the next 2 hours or so recieve my two Powerbase xs 15's from ups.. I want to use crossfire amps.. your not gonna change my mind. any how I've been looking for a deal on them. And not on ones where the red light is on or it accidentally fell out of your truck on the free way, but you think it still works lol.. preferably new wit ha warranty. I'm working on building a show truck.. well daily driver/show vehicle. Here's what I'd like to accomplish 1993 ford explorer.. to be painted electric blue as soon as i get a free weekend to start body work.. rain = yuck 4x powerbase xs 15's - have two so far. will buy the other two if i can find a …

ok ok so my very 1st amp was an alpine 1507 yea hot shit right, but i neva got to hook it up cuz my bro sold it, cuz i neva paid him back... but the guy he sold it to is selling it again.. and ha i'm buying it back for get this 80$ and the amp dam near cost 300$ soooooo, now i got a jbl 1200 and an alpine 1507.. for those that dont know thats 1200 watts+ about 1500 watts totalling at about 2800watts RMS but i only have one sub, and i need a new alt now that can pull about 300amps...

orion-2400watts-449$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT MA-460$ http://cgi.ebay.com/MA-AUDIO-HK802SX-HK-80...1QQcmdZViewItem or i could save about 100$ and get that bx2006

So i won't be in town for a couple of weeks and my bro will be driving my car... Him being in HS i know he will try to impress his friends, I specifically told him not to go above 30/35 on the H/U..... didn't tell him about the gain b/c i know he will try to turn it up if I told him I turned it down for hiim... To protect my sub I turned the sub amp gain all the way down today, but can still get some bass at full tilt, where is this power coming from? H/U? I thought turning the gain all the way down will= no power? also is it okay to keep the gain all the way down and play at full tilt? no clipping issues right? I understand the amp wont be clipping but what about the…

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

stupid question i just installed my nw Alpine MRP M850. now, on the other amp

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use

im lookin at these models: ddx7019 ddx8019 kvt-719 kvt-819 Was wondering if anyone has any experience with any of those units?

anybody own this amp? what do you think about it? i was told it will not do what it says, has anybody put an o scope on one ? im going to put it on one fully loaded fi btl 15, if it has enough power i would like to put two on it any suggestions?

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

I keep hearing over and over to spend the money on speakers and processing. I am debating on buying a zapco ref. 360.4 and a 1100.1. This will set me back like 1400 bucks for new stuff from an authorized dealer. I am highly considering scratching the zapco amps and going with Crossfire. Either a vr404 or 2 - vr402's for the active front stage and a vr1000d for subs. I know Crossfire has a stellar reputation for SPL amps and that. Anyone have some good SQ competition with any of their class AB amps? The processing will not be an issue as I will be using an Audiocontrol MVC, 6XS, and 2 - EQT's. Thanks for any and all opinions or comments.

Hi everyone i was wondering is the cadance zrs-7000d amp any good i remember back in the day the older one's were good because i had the z7000 the chrome one that put out 1800watts at 1ohm and i was not sure if the zrs are any good ?

Im upgrading my BASS and i was thinking of buying the rockford fosgate T20001bd, anyone know these amps. I was going to try to buy a 12" btl to run off of it as well, do u think it is a good pair up?

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting anoth…