Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

Hi everyone i was wondering is the cadance zrs-7000d amp any good i remember back in the day the older one's were good because i had the z7000 the chrome one that put out 1800watts at 1ohm and i was not sure if the zrs are any good ?

ok last thread i promise- i wanna keep this clean and no bs posts, just information please. reason is that i'm positive this is the last thread is becuase i got my tweeters in, and they were hard to find, i got the 8 of the last 10 pairs they had in stock, and i only paid dealer cost (48 a pair SHIPPED) vs like 80 a pair where most others sell them for. anyways, they're still bullets, i know you guys wont like them, but they are comparable to Eminence sound wise, they're a tad bit louder too, 109dB efficient.... also, they look better too. again, not to most of you guys, but i didnt want 16 big square eminence tweeters, so i got these, they look like the Beyma/o2 bullets,…

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting anoth…

i was seeing what you guys recommend for a small amp (small size) i was looking at an amp maybe under the dash something that doesnt take alot current draw...i was looking for 100 watts rms and a price limit of about 300 dollars...i have 4-6 1/2 alpine type s 4 ohm speakers....im not looking to win a award with them just something to get a little more output out of them

like the topic title says i just bought a used dcon. but im looking to get an amp to power it what is the best amp for the money to power this 12" single ohm sub? im on a tight budget here so what would be the cheapest but good amp i can use any help is appreciated.

Round about where is the 30hz mark on the SSF adjustment?And the 80hz mark on the LPF

Recently my Orion Amp I had, pushin a Soundqubed HDS3.1-15" rated 1200RMS, crapped out! I'm lookin for replacement that's affordable & CAPABLE of rated 1200RMS needed to really experience my Soundqubed. I paid $125 for my Orion 2500.1D & it was rated 1200RMS @1ohm but I doubt it ever made that. I thought 1200RMS for $125 seemed too good to be true. I know I'm not goin back that route, so I'm curious of opinions on Amps under the $200 mark that I can afford & hopefully won't crap out after 9mons like my Orion & hopefully produce 1200RMS. I have a few options/manufacturers that I'm looking at that I'll list, plz give any opinions you have bout these …

My friend has this amplifier, and I've been looking on various websites, and everywhere says it does 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms, anyone know if this is true? Because I can get this amplifier for very cheap, it has a problem though.... It doesn't turn off. As soon as we connected the negative wire, it turned on, remote wire wasn't even hooked into the amplifier yet. But anyways, does this thing really do 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms?

i was wondering whats the correct way to connect a audiocontrol dqxs & audiocontrol epicenter since i was told to put my epicenter before the dqxs and not after dqxs can some correct this for me please

Anyone know if this is really a mono amp as some say? Specs say it's a 2 channel 50 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 80 x 1 @ 4 ohms, and 100 into 8 ohms. I've read that the amp was mislabeled at the factory and is in fact a mono amp. Figured this would be the best place to ask with all the old school fanatics on this forum. Thanks.

So I was driving to school int he morning and I noticed that the volume of my bass was decreasing and it eventually cut out completely. When I got to school I opened my hood and found my fuse holder deformed and melted. Anyone know why this happened? And I cant open the damn thing to put a new fuse in =(

both are rated at about the same at all ohm levels, and are priced the same. any reason to chose on over the other?

So after asking many questions and buying everything that I need according to people on this forum I have an issue. I have 1 15"bl in my truck with a fosgate 1000bd. Everyone on here has told me I need another cell 0 guage wire, and to do the big 3. Every stereo shop that I went to here says that 0 guage is over doing it. They also say I will be fine with 1 yellowtop and that running 0 guage from the battery is pointless cause the current wire on it is way better than 0 guage is. They say 4 guage is plenty and all I need to do is run the 0 guage from the battery to the amp. Nothing else. They actually said that my 4 guage is fine. So what do I do??? Is it really …

Hey guys just recieved my Alternator today from Singer Should hope to install it over the weekend let me know what you think? Its going in a 2004 f250

I was just given an orion d2400 its powers on but goes into protect then esp then protect again. I opened it up and i dont see anything wrong no fried mosfets in fact i dont see anything fried. Still smells new im gonna have a diagnostic done on it but what do you all think is wrong

Has someone out there tested the American Bass vfl-120.1 maybe some 14 an 16v numbers? Thanks for any help.

Im on a tight budget and am not resorting to Hifonics, so my other option is Audioque 1200D. I know a lot of people on here are Sundown lovvers, but I havent heard anything bad about Audioque other than 1 person having a problem on here a long time ago. Anyone got anything they could share with Audioque, I know the son or father 1 of the 2 also owns and runs Digital Designs, so cant be all that bad right?

Here is the situation, amp is irrelevant, here is the scene- Stock alternator, car on, over 14v at idle, starting battery up front, XS D3100 batt in the back(reads 13.0 float), so i gots plenty of battery power for this amp which requires a 200A fuse. I start to oscope the amp on a 48hz tone set to repeat. Every now and then, there would be a "THUD" sound that would quickly come from the amp. Unknown as to why but we continue to scope anyway. I do not know if it's relevant or not. Anyways, subsonic set to off, LPF set all the way up, bass boost OFF, phase 0, gain - all the way DOWN. All settings on HU were flat, sub preout set to 15, Kenwood HU. Volume goes to 35. I sta…

Has anyone used a Duracell Platinum AGM battery before? It's the largest AGM I can fit under my hood, 94r. Sam's club has them for $169; http://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-grp-94r-h7-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510086.ip?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default Ford put the smallest battery possible in my car to save weight, I'm thinking they counterbalanced that by using a 150A alternator. There are two pieces that hold the battery in place that, once removed, accept a 94r. Should I go for this battery or does anyone have any other suggestions?

So , I just noticed that my power cap volt meter is droping to around 11.04 volts when I have my system pounding to its potential - can anyone tell me what to look for as the problem with this - 11.04 cant be right , its usually around 12.5-13.4 , and it drops that low for only a second . My setup is this : Red top under my hood -> isolator -> yellow top in the trunk -> 1.2 farad cap -> amps " Kicker 4ch 70x4rms " , and " Orion 2400D 1200x1@1ohm " . The cap has been grounded seperately from the yellow top - they each have there own , my system is running 4 ga. wire , power and ground .

Amp warranty at .5 ohms?

epicenter....... when/why do people use them..... are they a waste of money??

Would like to know what you guys prefer and why. The HU seems to have more precise control and you can change the slope as well. If using the HU crossovers, should the amp be set to full?

yes another one of those threads... I know which batteries are better then others. But when you look at what you get for a certain amount of money, then it gets hard to choose. This is for a comp/daily setup, not only burps. I have: Hifonics Colossus II (3000W rms), SS Ref4.920 (600W rms), Two Fi Q 18" and a HO alternator from Iraggi rated at 250A. These batteries will be in the back. 2 x Kinetik KR3112, same as HC2400 just the racing line (the red batteries). 2 x XS power D3400 2 x Odyssey PC1700 2 x Xstatic Batcap 2000 The battery upfront will also be replaced by a new battery from the same producer as the batteries I choose to have in the back. The reason for my …