Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi I think i am going to get one 15" BTL because if i got 2 of them then i would need a new alternator, but can anyone tell me if i am going to need a larger alternator with just one 15" BTL along with a ton of power cells, or could i fly with just power cells to back it up. Also do you need a new receiver or can i be fine with a receiver and a line-out converter??

Alright.. just placed my order for a 18" BTL fully loaded yesterday, i already have a Sundown SAZ1500D.. im worried its not going to be enough power.. maybe im wrong? lol.. what else is out there that isnt outrageous in price but does its job? im lookin for over a 2000 rms amp. and needs 1 ohm stability. Like i said.. maybe my sundown will work fine.. but with all the damn money im dumpin into this build as far as battery's, wires, alternator and all that good stuff, i want to really get this BTL movin.

Im getting ready to install my new system soon but I ran into a couple problems/questions. I am going to be running a Fi Q 12d2 parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. Im going to be adding this to my stock setup in my car. I have a 2010 Audi A4 without the B&O system (it has the basic system). Im going to have a ported box in the trunk. My main question is... What is the optimal way for routing the Sundown's RCA's back to the head unit without problems? I've seen people in previous installs on the Audi forums that simply disconnect the stock sub, then splice the wires, and add a converter to female RCA. They plug the new(sub) amp's RCA's to that which routes it back to the …

Can any of you help me out. i'm looking at getting a new head unit for my 2001 kia sportage and im not sure what to get. my budget is $300 and i don't mind buying a used deck either as long as its in great shap some scratches are fine as long as there not deep. i'm leaning more to a sq deck with a built in sound processor. i wont be useing the built in amp on the deck since i have a 4 channel amp

I have a new kenwood head unit I'm trying to install. I bought the scosche wiring harness for my toyota tercel at walmart. I ran into a problem, none of the connections on the wiring harness fit into the back of my kenwood cd player. I'm a noob when it comes to this so help me out? Here are some pictures showing the backs of both head units and the factory wires and the scosche wiring harness. The wires that went into the back of the stock head unit The back of the stock one, see the place to insert the plug? My kenwood doesn't have that There is only one place that looks like a harness would go there, but none of them fit Here is the wiring harness IDK WHAT IM DOINGG…

Please someone correct me if i am wrong, i am going to strap my Sundown Audio 3500Ds and this will be my first time strapping amps, so i need to see if i am thinking correctly. The Master amp gets the input from the head-unit and a mono RCA from "BR Out" connected. The Slave amp ONLY gets "BR In" connected from the Master amp, leave the Gain and other Filters on the Slave amp set to 0. Each amp gets its own remote wire coming from the head-unit. Each amp gets its own Power and Ground. Connect NEG terminals of both amps together using 8AWG wires Wire my subs like so; Then take the POS wire from my sub and put it in the Master amps (far left) positive terminal, then take t…

Does anyone on here know how to install one. I need direction. Sincerely, Matthew

I was thinking of extending my power and ground wires to give me a little more flexibility with my amp install. Would it be ok to solder some extra length onto the existing wires instead of having to make a whole new run? It would probably only be a foot extra at the most.

I'm looking at the DLS RA 10 and RA20 to power my IDQ12v3D4 and CXS62 6.5" comps. How do the 125.2 and 1000D compare to the DLS in terms of clean power and features? Thanks

In probably a month or so I will be purchasing 2 sundown SA 12s, and I'm trying to figure out which amp would be best for the subs any suggestions would be appreciated. -Hifonics brx 1600.1D -Hifonics Zrx 1800.1D -Audiopipe AP 1500

chit fudge chit driving home from school today, music playing next thing i know my truck starts randomly slowing down and my ABS light is blinking. THen i see my voltage meter is droping lower than usualy with the beat. I turn the system off and everything is good. Turn it back on and same problem. Im pretty sure my alternator just died on me. how this relates to the ABS randomly comming on i dont know. Glad my 4 year old battery had the life in her to get me home, Hopefully it can get me to the parts store to have my battery and alternator tested. If it is the alternator, while im paying $150 for a new stock replacemnt, i'll probably pay $100 more tops for a Hight Outpu…

I will be getting a new car soon. I honestly dont want to use my current 4 gauge as it limits me to <1300rms I want to go straight to zero gauge so I dont have to worry about the wire in the future. I wanted to go for Kicker, but wire is wire and Knukonceptz seems to have a good reputation here and seems to be cheaper. I also heard about Welding Supplies, they seem like another good option. However, I recently read a thread were one of the wires (dont know if Knukonceptz or Welding) was made of CCA (copper covered aluminum I believe). All I remember was that CCA wire should be avoided. So now I ask, which one is the one to go for? I really cant make a mistake since I'l…

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended…

So I'm pretty sure I'm getting knukonceptz wiring for my set-up. my set-up: 2 fi q12's fully loaded (subs) Fi: 2 sets of alpine spr-13s components (speakers- 4 total) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. 1 audioque 2200d (amp for sub) Audioque: Amps: AQ2200D 1 Alpine PDX-4. 100 (amp for speakers) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. So, for the Audioque amp i'm thinking about getting the Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit ( 0 GAUGE DUAL AMP POWER KIT ) And for the Alpine amp I'm thinking about getting the Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit ( 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit ) Does this Installation Kit include enough speaker wire for 4 speake…

Alright most likely this amp will be powering 2 12" SS RL-P's in a box between 1.75-2^3ft with 20-24^2in of port per sub...tuned to 34hz... Here are the amp choices..price range is under 360.... 1.)Orion 2500D(refurbished from Ikesound kinda worried about that) will be used @ 2 ohms 2.)MA Audio HK-1398 which is 600x2 @ 1ohm stereo, and 1600x1@ 2ohm mono... 3.)Hifonics BX1605D which is 1600@1ohm. All opinions are welcome, please give em to me...Also you guys all seem real knowledgeable so any other Options or Ideas for amps that you might have are more than welcome!!!! THANKS EVERYONE.....

hey whats up i have 4 kicker 15 solo barics in a 13.5 cubic ft ported box with 2 1000.1 rockford power amps, im looking for a really good processor, the best one on the market, what would you guys sugest

Just purchased the sealed enclosure for 2) 12" SSA GCONs - Net will be 1.3.1-45 FT^3 per. I've been doing some research but have seen a very wide variety of recommendations for setting the amp's subsonic filter for sealed enclosures. Some say to set it @ or just below the Fs of the speaker (31.5hz for the GCON) Some say that you don't need to run the subsonic filter at all because the air-suspension inside of the sealed enclosure acts as a shock absorber/accumulator and will provide ample protection from over-excursion. Not sure which is the best bet for my situation. Naturally, I want to protect my drivers without inhibiting performance. What should I be doing here?…

I recently bought a 3000 watt audio pip class d mono amp and running it for less then 45mins destroyed my stock alternator. i currently have a 130amp alternator two normal car batteries one in front and in the trunk. every thing hooked up with cheap 0 gauge wire (its not ofc), and i don't have a big3 upgrade. clearly i need to do something before i hook my amp back up. i was thinking either a big3 and big xs battery like a 4k watt one, or a high output alt and a big3, or something. What would you guys suggest? Thanks in advance for any replies i dont know if it makes a differnce but i plan on running either a ssa zcon or a sundown z series 15 in a home built 3cubic feet …

I've always been against it, because it seems like it would vibrate the living fuck out of the guts and possibly make parts become loose and resulting in the amp being faulty. BUT! I am tight on space, and might have to do so. So i was wondering if everyone who has done this before can tell me if their amp(s) had a problem, if so what problem and/or if the amp was fine. Please include name(s) of equipment! Thank you!

hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

epicenter....... when/why do people use them..... are they a waste of money??

Hey ssa jfreezy here with another question. Is there a difference in sound between 1200rms and 1500rms or is it just spl? Wired to 1ohm will I hear a difference between the both with same amp settings? I'm choosing between a sundown audio sax 1200 or a saz 1500. I want to power two SA 10s or SA 12s at 1 ohm. Ported tuned about 33-34

Brand new Powerbass xta-1500d or used digital design m1b Xta-1500d Features: 1-ohm Stable Class D Circuitry Dual-link Circuitry Oversize Power, Ground and Speaker Terminals Variable Electronic Low Pass Crossovers Variable Electronic Sub-Sonic Filter Variable Electronic Bass EQ Self-Diagnostic Protection Circuitry Variable Remote Gain Control Specifications: Channels (mono): 1 Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 1500 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 850 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 450 watts Strapped Output Power @ 2ohms: 3,000 watts Frequency Response: 18 Hz -250 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.1 % S/N Ratio: >94 dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2 V -6.0 …

I had a Memphis 16-PR1.500.1 given to me a few days ago.I was told it was cutting in and out,so I hooked it up 4 days ago.The first 2 days no issues,went out yesterday started my car no output from the amp.I pop the trunk amp is on fan running,not in protect then out of nowhere it starts playing.May play two days may play 5 minutes,then it stops again,so I hit it with my hand it instantly goes back to playing! So I'm thinking something has gotten loose on the internals somewhere.Was curious as to what some of you thought about it.

I was wondering if anyone here has used trojan batteries before cause the local distributor around me quoted me an awsome price on a 2400cca agm battery and I am wanting to know if they last long and are any good.