Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

lookie here!! hehe..i want at least 2!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I have read a few things that say that a 2nd bat. is useless unless competing because in some comp. the motor is off.... as i do not compete i was wondering if a 2nd bat would be usefull to stabilize voltage or a HO alt. I have a 2002 grand prix gtp with the big 3 done in 4awg knu knocepts wire and some 4awg monster cable. I have a sae-1200d.v2 and i am going to be getting 2 sa-12s. I am hoping to have both loud and good sq system in my car? just wondering what others are thinking and comments... thanks

Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

I'm going to be upgrading my alternator. I have a 2010 Malibu 2.4l ecotec. I'm running a Hifonics 1700.1 BRE and I have a D2400 under the hood.. I was thinking about going with a Singer alternator and my question is, should I go with the 170A or the 240A?

well here are some gut shots of my new mids and highs amp. this will be part of an active two way front stage.

I recently purchased a old school zed made Autotek 220mxi. The guy sold it cheap as he had no clue on car audio worth. The amp powered up and worked well for about 3 hours of moderate use. It was powering 2 RE Audio SE-X 12D4s. I had it wired at 2 ohm stereo mode (2 ohm load each channel) which I thought the amp could handle. I ran a good 4 gauge power wire and ground (knukonceptz) with a 60AMP inline fuse and the gain was at maybe 40% max. Bass on stereo set at 0, loudness on low setting. After about 3 total hours of use spread out over 2 days it quit. When it died you could smell the "dead amp" smell of burnt electronics and it blew the inline fuse as well. Just for kic…

i finally did the big three today... and omg my voltage jumped up from 12.8 to 14.1 with the engine on.. and under load still getting 12.8 only 70 amp alternator and stock batterys and 8 gauge wiring the old ground cable was so ugly, it was soaked up in motor oil where the terminal bolts on to the engine mount and up at the top where the connector goes to the battery it was corroded with acid dust... (shoulda taken a pic of it before i threw it away). for the grounding from the engine to the chassis i bolted it to the long screw that screws into the alternator and then sanded off some paint and grounded it to the chassis. then for the + battery to alternator i ran the …

I currently have a Mechman 270a in my 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4 and it's going through belts like crazy. I have checked pulley alignment, tension, and have done everything I can think of to solve it. This only happens when the alternator is under a load when I play my beats. I have roughly 600 amps of draw with nearly 12,000 watts of battery reserve. It does the squealing the worse at idle, and actually tears these belts at higher engine speeds. I use the good Gates belts, but they don't last more than a few weeks. I have had trouble with this alternator several times and had to send it back three times, and swapping these belts, and especially the alternator in my car is a H…

I currently have a Kenwood KDC-248u head unit and I think I want to upgrade it to something a lot better. Not exactly sure what hu I want so I am looking for some suggestions. Budget is $400 but I definitely would like to get something cheaper if I can. Thanks -JP

As the title states Would it be possible and worth it just to use my cap as a voltage meter? I know caps are useless but i already have it and i dont want to buy a volt meter when i have one on my capacitor. So do you guys think it will be ok, iv heard that sometimes caps can mess up your electrical but not too sure on how caps work and what there designed for. Any info on what to expect would be great, its an easy hook up process and would like to use it if it doesnt mess anything up, thanks in advance

I can either get the base bl 15. Or the ssd with cooling. Im planning on running a soundstream rub1600.1 what do you guys think?

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended…

i have had a couple pioneer 980's that had ground problems, then on the 3rd one i had for over a year with no problems. Now i havent had a stereo in almost a year ( bought a bike and never drive truck), now i am putting stereo in truck. I would like the new 800prs, but have still read of many people having trouble with pioneer ground problems. What headunit does everyone use comparable to the pioneer? Locally, only choices here are pioneer, very few being premier models, alpine, and some lower end kenwoods. thanks for help

Hey guys, I need your help. I decided to change out my substage and now I keep blowing fuses in the distro block after I start my car. Here's my old set-up: Vehicle: JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (Twin Turbo) Battery: Bosch Premium (American Bosch Platinum S5 equivalent) Big 3: Streetwires Ultra Flow 1/0 H/U: Alpine CDA-9887 Front Speakers: Kicker Impulse i525 Amp: US Amps USA-50 Subs: TC Sounds OEM 10 (x2) Amps: US Amps USA-200 (x2) **NEW Substage: Sub: 12" SSA ICON Amp: US Amps PT-1100 I've got 1/0 going from my battery (200A fuse) to my trunk and running into a 3-way distro block (fuse sizes are 25A, 60A, an…

so my friend buys this amp and takes it to our local shop, and is told it's a memphis that'll do 1000watts (don't know if thats rms or peak) but anyways this amp is freakin huge...gotta be like 2 feet x 9" x 2.5", and weighs like 20-30lbs....i dont have any pics of it but it has a shiny brushed finish, and no logos, or numbers on it..the top of it has a bunch of little slits that go all the way across it....but no logos...also the terminals look like 2 amps put together...2 channels on each side, 1 power, ground and rem on each side, and a filter on each side.....and its not 2 amps put together, i looked all over it and it's just 1 big amp......anybody know anything about…

(reference: system is HDS.1 15" Soundqubed 1200RMS w/Orion Cobalt 2500.1D Amp in a 2003 Lincoln TC) Recently I posted bout headlight dimming, weather Big3 or capacitor may solve issue & got many great responses... The best bein bout batteries & the different types, however Im currently livin off expired bread & occasionally sharing dog food w/my neighbors dog that he gets LMAO it's not that bad but suffice it to say I can't afford a new battery that would probably solve the problem, but since I had extra 4ga. OFC from my last 2 installs, I did the big3 upgrade anyway, however didn't notice much difference. Since this upgrade, roughly 2 weeks ago I've e…

Alright. So im putting together my new system and im new to this so i need some guidance or help. I just bought a BL 15 fully loaded dual 1 and built the new box so thats takin care of for the sub. Now im buying a Hifonics BXi 1210D. Im going to have to run 4 gauge wire with that amp tho and i was wondering would i want to get an amp with 0 gauge instead? difference? I dont know what to throw around my car for speakers tho. any ideas? Im going to run a Rockford punch 550x2 to the speaks what ever they are. And im going to run another amp, Alpine 650 mono to some towers im throwing in. Do i need a distribution block or a fused distribution block to run 3 amps? Going to hav…

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a friend of mine is looking at getting a new system in his grand prix. so im gonna to hook him up with a dcon 12 but i need an amp that will run it safely. maybe a 500w @ 1 ohm. or a 1000w wired down or something along thoes lines. let me know what for amps i should look at but his price range would probably be around 300-350 for everything.

Noticed one of my 40 amp fuses on my 1500d is fuzzy looking on the left inside part of it. I'm not trying to damage anything, so I'm wondering what's the proper way to remove a fuse without causing anything else to break? Thanks, Nick

Looking into running a stinger SPP1200 up under the hood and a SPP2150 in the rear. Are these batteries reliable and strong enough to support 3000 - 3500rms on stock electrical with big3 and 130amp alt. And how do these compare to the others like Powermaster Kinetik etc. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Well everytime I narrow my choices down I find about a new head unit. Right now I'm deciding between the Eclipse 5435 and the Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP/DEH-P8MP and Clarion DXZ755MC/DXZ855MP. In terms of SQ, features, eqs, etc, what is my best option? I would like the lighting on the unit to be all blue as well...that matters to me. Color screens of course are an exception.

I ordered a hifonics zeus 1800w amp. The spec sheet online says it uses 4ga inputs. I feel like 4ga is rather small for an 1800w amp. I know I can get wire reducers, but could I just run 2 fuse holders, and on the rear at the amp go down from 0ga to 4ga? Or should I just run 1 fuse, and solid 1/0 run to a reducer?

Alright guys. I picked up a Hifonics BXX2000.1D for my Fi BLv3 18. A good friend of mine has a scope, so we dialed in gains on a 0db 50hz test tone. I have the electrical to feed it. I’m able to maintain voltage at full tilt. I was reading about power and impedance rise and decided to clamp the amp and get some readings for myself. I’ll save you the time in telling me “it’s a hifonics amp, you get what you pay for... etc” I’m fully aware. I plan on going Sundown this spring with tax money. However, I’ve ran a few HF amps in the past and have been satisfied. I ran test tones at full tilt, 20hz to 55hz, measured AC voltage at speaker output termin…

just sold my jl audio hd amps. right now i am running some old school soundstream stuff untill i settle on some new amps. should i go with the old school linear power or the new zed audio? looking for the ""SQL"" set up i run 12w7's,jl audio c5 comps up front and and jl audio c2 comps for rear fill. should i stay with old school stuff or go with the new class d stuff again.