Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a feeling this is a pretty common problem that some of you have dealt with. So hopefully you can help me. I have a Fi BL 12 running off a sundown sae1200d. And when I play it at full tilt at idle, I get voltage drop into the 13.0 range (and sometimes even a bit less D:) Although when driving or holding the revs at about 2k, the voltage has no problem sitting at 14. I'm pretty sure this is an alternator issue. But ive heard that even HO alternator have poor output at idle. So what do I do? FYI- big three is done. And all wiring is in 1/0 Also, I currently have a quote from Excessive Amperage for a 200 amp alt for $385. Thanks in advance.

Could someone recommend a good amp for two SSA ICON 12's....please?

I have and Audiopipe APSM-1300 that went into protect mode while riding down the road. I had it wired to a 1ohm which is 1000 watts. The amp is grounded beneath the drivers seat at a spot were I sanded the paint away and secured the ring terminal with three screws to the floor. I have an 8 gauge kit with an 80 amp fuse. My question is it possible the amp was struggling too hard with the small wire to generate the power or the amp hit the drivers seat frame and maybe shorted out. The amp is damaged now and Audiopipe wants $20 to fix it and whatever it cost to ship it. I only paid $100 for the amp and I think I will go with something else instead of fixing it. Any thou…

I've been trying to trouble shoot my hissing noise for a while now and don't know where else to look. When the sub amp is hooked up, the subs have a slight crackle, and the tweeters hiss. But when I unhook the remote to the sub amp the highs are fine. I've moved all of the grounds in the back around to a few different places. I've also tried grounding the head unit, and checked the rcas and tried a different set of rcas.Also added a relay. Grounding the hu kinda lessened the hissing in the highs, but not too much. I don't really know where else to check. I was thinking about just getting a new hu to see if mine is taking a shit...Any advice?

Ok so almost 6 months ago I loaned my car to a friend and when I got it back my subwoofer was not playing. I started a thread on here asking about how to fix it and what not and I never really came to a conclusive answer. I just got a Sundown SAZ-1000D and plugged it in and went to check the output voltage of the amp and even at high volume with the gain pretty high the highest I get is 3.x AC volts. I am getting power to the amp and it turns on without the protect light or anything I checked the DC voltage at the amp, its in order. Now the one place that does not seem to be right are the RCAs. No matter what I do I can't get them to register ANY voltage no matter how lou…

Well it was probably a waste of time / money but here's the new toy to test out... suppose to handle 17 volts and do 5k++watts... we'll see... I'll be doing some bench testing this week (and yes just testing I have no intention of keeping the amp, unless it suprises me) some pics

a lot of people i have talked to on forums say to stay away from optima yellow tops, why?

I never got around to finishing the system in the last truck but this one will be different, dammit. Anyway... New truck is an F-150 Supercrew. The H/U is already installed, Kenwood DNX-8120. It has some limited processing capability but I doubt that I'll use much of it. I have an Altomobile Drive 30 for processing the front stage, I'll replace it with a MS-8 if I decide that it isn't getting the job done from a noise perspective. Front is going to be 3-way active, HAT Legatia 3s and 1s in the kicks and some midbasses in the doors. I have a pair of CDT ES-06+ woofer that may go there or I might order a pair of Dayton 6s for each door. The rear will have a decent pa…

I've talked about this subject with a couple people and I was looking for more opinions. My current system is Head Unit: Alpine iDA-X305S Front Stage: (4) 7" AA Carbon Fibers (1) SAX-100.4 (4) Selenium ST200s (1) SAX-125.2 Sub Stage: (2) 15" AA SMD (2) SAZ-3500D strapped Electrical: (1) Yellow Top (4) XS Power D3100 (1) DC Power 320 Amp Alt I'm thinking about upgrading my sub amps to (2) SAZ-4500Ds strapped, will I notice any audible difference or any difference on a TL, is so how much? I would upgrade my electrical along with the amps. Thanks, Dom.

Hi sorry if this Is In the wrong area.Ok, I bought a c90 on ebay,it suppose to work, BUT when i got it does not face wont go all the way down to allow a cd to be inserted, And the seems to be a cd jamed In It.The dang thing looks new even the cooper body is almost flawless.My question is can It be fixed? and are parts even avil. It came with org. box both remotes and instruction manuel. It Is a very nice piece. thanks.

Well I was planning on getting the Sundown 2500 until it went to 815 dollars, there is no way I have the money for that, I can dish out maybe 600 tops...was looking at the HiFonics Brutus 2400, but I dont know if they are good or not, everywhere I have looked they have positive feedback...any suggestions??

thinking of buying one...anyone have an opinion of these batts

Well im almost done with my Bravox components install and I was wonderin, could I just hook those up to 2 of the channels and not use the rear. No bridging... just using the 2 channels alone. I just want to hear them before I install my rear. Thanks.

im running 2 saz 4500's to 2 fi btl's and i was wondering should i strap them or dont? what is the purpose of strapping?

Im trying to decide witch line driver to get for my system but I've never had one so irk were to start. Im thinking to go with the one rockford fosegate makes. Does any one have any experience. With it or one you think is better?

Right now I have an saz-2500d and I am getting the electrical to power it sufficeintly. As for batteries, the one I have now is a perfectly fine battery, I do not know what kind of amperage its putting out but it is a stock carquest battery and rests at 12.5. Car on, I rest at 14.0-.1. I plan on doing... Excessive Amperage 200 amp Alternator Big 3 And a bettery for the rear (Possibly Deka intimidator 9A31) My question is on batteries... I don't want to spend a load of money on batteries so I'm wondering if a stock battery and 1 rear would be okay. Another thing is.. If my stock battery rests differently then my extra battery would that be okay, or what part would I need t…

ok so i have a 2007 chevy impala with a 270 amp alt a yellow top up front 2 hc2400 kinetiks in the back as well as a hc3800 kinetik in the back as far as batteries so you all know all i am running is a powerbass 3000xa to my powerbass 3xl 12s 2 of them and a phoenix gold ti 500.4 old school amp to my mids and when i turn it up my headlights dim and i dont know why any help would be nice guys thanks.

I'm looking at getting this head unit. Anyone with experience with it? I have owned a eXcelon X889. Loved it. Wish I never sold it. Would this be a nice choice or is there better for around the price of this one?

Ok, I have never owned an amp w/o on-board fuses. I understand that fuses are necessary, but I am a bit confused about just how they are installed and WHY they are necessary. I'll probably purchase an amp kit that comes with an in-line fuse. I understand that this is to protect the battery in the event of...hell idk, I just know it's to keep shit from catching on fire. Now further down the line, the two amps I have have on-board fuses to protect themselves in the event that they should draw more current than they need/can handle. (Not quite sure about that either. I know that fuses usually pop when too much juice passes through them.) Now...I've been avoiding this by limi…

first off im a 16 year old kid with little experience. ive done a few installs before but not very many. i have a single bl 15 on a sundown sae-1200d. but anyways my friend has a 1998 dodoge dakota and i was attempting to put a brand new kenwood head unit in it. and when i was wiring the after market harness to the head unit harness there were some weird wires. theres two harnesses to wire, one has 3 of 4 speakers and the remote wire on it and the other has power, ignition, illumination, dimmer, right front negative, amplifier ground, and mute. there is no wire from after market harness for left front negative but the one that says amp ground is the same color (white and…

I've been searching the past few days for a ~2000w RMS amplifier around the $200 price range. Here's a couple amps I'm torn between: Audiopipe AP1800D - rated at 1800w rms @ 1ohm --- 180-200$ Hifonics HiFi2000D - Rated at 2000w rms @ 1 ohm --- 200-230$ Quantum Audio QA4000D - Rated at 2000w rms @ 1 ohm --- 220-240$ These are not top of the line amps no doubt, but which of these three would most likely put out the cleanest signal, do close to rated power and most efficiently? And any other ideas on other amps around this price range around 2kw rms? (No more than $250)

The new SAX 200.4 makes me feel like everything I ever bought has been wasted money! I hope this isnt going to be considered spam. But I just had to SCREAM IT AT THE TOP OF MY LUNGS! Come to me SAX 200.4 . Unbelieveable. Just had to tell someone.

My sister just got an 04 Land Rover Freelander and I'm wondering what size head unit fits into this car. The stock radio is a cd changer that takes up far more room than a single din head unit would but I'm not exactly sure on what size would fit. Any body Know what would fit?

Hey all.I just got my high output alternator and I'm wanting to do the big 3 upgrade but I have a couple of questions first.I'm going to use the knukoncepts kolliousis flex 1/0 wire to do it and I was wondering about how many feet of wire I would need to do it. My car is a 1977 oldsmobile delta 88 with a 403 engine if that helps any. Also could someone post a good article on how exactly to do it please? Thanks a ton. HawkEye