Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm currently in the process of redoing my sound stage. I'm going to replace my Alpine, the front Kickers with either Focal or Rainbow components (rear fill will stay Kicker 6x9s), and most likely 2 Mach 5 15's on a Sundown SAE-1000D. I figured an in-dash T.V. head unit would help pull the chicks , not to mention I could put my XBox in my car http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1168044601606 It seems like a good in-dash video head unit, and the store near me has it for $400, hence why I'm thinking of getting it. Does anybody have any experience with these?

I just hooked up a rf t40001bd amp in my car, the amp is ran by 3 stinger sp1000 batteries and a 250 amp alt. I played it for a good 40 minutes I than went out to listen to it again and pop the amp smoked and the fuse discolored (but never popped... not sure wat else Im scared to put another amp in... Any help would be appreciated

If you had the choice of the 2 headunits what would you choose. This is the first thing im having installed in my car later on i plan on getting a sundown sax 100.4 and running my front stage active. Later on i plan on getting a cadence txa-1000 and an FI BL. Just wondering what headunit you guys like better and why.

Which is a legit website to buy a BNIB Alpine 9887, not refurbished. OCS: Alpine CDA-9887 In-Dash Receivers with Bluetooth - Video/Multimedia at Onlinecarstereo.com -says brand new sealed in factory box -seems as though reviews of this site goes both ways. PowersellerNYC: PowersellerNYC - Alpine CDA-9887 CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver -says refurbished and for the same money OCS is advertising its making me think OCS's may be refurbished as well. -not sure on the sites credibility DCCA: Alpine CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver - iPhone Compatible -says BNIB factory sealed -reviews on this site go both ways as well ASW: Alpine CDA-9887 CD, MP3, WMA PLAYER -doesn't say…

i know we have a group of very smart talented men on this site... any of them repairing amps? i need the SSA brother hood right about now

I have 60' (40' clear/silver, 20' blue) of Monster 400 Series 1/0. I need another 100' (40'clear/silver, 60') blue though. So I was wandering if I should bother hunting like crazy for more Monster, which I have been doing, or sell it all and get some Knu Fleks 1/0. Basically, should I hunt for another 100' of Monster 400, or say screw it and get 160' Knu Fleks?

So I have two zv4 18s d2s...original plans was to strap afew 2ks on them at 2 ohms but ran across and almost forgot about the 4601ds which are 0.5 stable...I know the opti7001ds do rated i had a popcorn 6k "Same amp". But Im not sure about the smaller versions..gimme some input guys..already have enough electrical to run over 5k daily

i will have proper electrical and everything just want to know some good amps to push these two subs.

hey all i am looking to upgrade from my us amps xt1600.2 which i recently found out is highly over rated (noob purchase..my bad) to something with a more true rms rating. i am looking to spend about $250 tops and although i know that is not a very big budget i just need something that pushes closer to the 1000rms rating of my ssa icon 12''. i am looking at hifonics brand amps and have come across these two. http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/HIFONICS-BRUTUS-BRZ1200.1D-1200w-MONO-AMPLIFIERAMP-KIT/BRZ1200.1D---XK4B1.aspx and http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/HIFONICS-HFI1500D-1500W-MONO-CLASS-D-AMPLIFIERAMP-KIT/HFI1500D---XK4B1.a…

I am wondering what sized wire is sufficient to run from my amplifier to my subwoofer. It will be about 6 feet long and delivering approximately 1750-2000 watts rms.

So I'm going to buy a new car but before I do I want to finish buying everything i need for my system (alt+batts) my current car has probably 70amp alt and I'm wondering if it would be ok to hook up everything without a ho alt until I can get the new car really my concern is with ruining the batts (5 duracell amg 105ah g31) I'm getting a CTEK battary charger so could I just charge them every now an then or would it be to much strain on the batts? Thank you for reading Current alt 70-80 amp 5 amg duracell 105ah per Audio qubed q1-7000 2 sundown xv1 18s

First question: What is a "float charge"? I've heard the term a few times, but never what it means. Second: How do you maintain a "float charge"? Again, I've heard about it and from what i hear it seems like a good thing, but don't know how. Third: What are some "budget" batteries? I don't need to power a small country, but i would like a decent reserve, as my RF 200.2 beats up on my current battery, a somewhat old Interstate 1000cca. Fourth, and finally: What are some ways to help keep your batteries healthy, or functional for longer? Thanks guys! I forgot to add, that for the time being, i am using a Pyramid 3amp constant/4amp surge AC/DC converter to charge my battery,…

alright so im setting up a system for my cousin to get as a christmas present and the budget is $500, i have a Stereo and speakers picked out but they dont want to buy an amp so my question is will the stereo be able to power these speakers. the stereo is an Alpine CDA-105 and the speakers are the Alpine SPS-600c and SPS-600.

I have 2 15" dual Voice Coil Subs. The Subs Are each 2 ohms. Im wondering how can I get a 1 ohm load by wiring them then also how can I get a 2 ohm load. Pictures would help. Thank You

Are there any good non D class amps that can push my twin RE SE 12s

Hey everyone, I got a sundown x18 powered by a hifonics zeus 1800 and crescendo components to the doors on 600w hifonics zeus. I was running this setup for a couple weeks with stock battery, stock 75a alternator, and no big 3 with no problems at all. With the stock setup, my volts were around 14.2v at idle and when I turn my system up it usually drops from around 13.1-11v and the stock alternator kept up pretty well. I decided to get a new Kinetik 1800w battery, a 175a alternator, and I did the big 3. When I did all of this, my system got worse. My volts were running at around 13.4-13.7 and when I did something as little as rolling up my windows, it drained he volts all…

Aren't they about the same as far as power? I currently have an RE12.1, but I was kinda looking at the NINe.1 cause I can get a matching NINe.2. I know it's kinda silly, but I like my things to match. Is there a reason one would be better than the other?

Quick question for all of you who are a lot smarter than me! My math told me it wasn't enough but I wanted to double check with you all. If my sound system drives 4100 watts will a 270 amp Max 200 idle alternator be able to support it? Especially accounting a/c etc. If it will that would be awesome, but if not I'll just go with SSA Icons instead of xcons. Ps I know I could probably get multiple alternators but it would be a tight fit, and personally don't have the capability so it would probably cost too much.

I have a 2002 honda civic si and I just installed a 200amp alt. The sys is charging at 14 volts. The batt light, on the dash, stays on. I have a batt under the hood and 2 in the back. Any ideas?

Well I just got back from picking up this earthquake amp. In a little rough shape but it is a ph1000w 2 channel. Any input on this?

if i have two of the same amps can i link them or are there only certain amps that you can link together?

like my title says, im wondering if the mtx elite 1501d amp is linkable with a second 1501d elite? i did google it but came up with nothing so i was hoping someone on here might be able to help me out. i still have the 1501d amp i blew and mtx said they will put a new bored in it for $95+shipping. i would like to do that, then just get a second one in the future to push my 2 solo x 10's. let me know fellas!

I'm running two 1200w amps in my Ram1500 to power two 12s and a front stage. I was having power issues so I swapped out my stock battery for an xs power D6500 (biggest I could fit), upgraded the alt to a singer 270amp, upgraded all wiring to 0ga, and put in a big 3 kit. That being said, on full tilt every so often I'll lose my components as the battery can't keep up when it slams for a few minutes. I'm building a bigger box for the 12s I've got, so while I'm at it I'm going to have my builder make room for an additional battery in the cab (it's a quad cab, so not a huge amount of space back there). The installer told me he'll be putting an isolator in as well. Here's …

I have just got a btl 18 fully loaded and am now looking for a amp and was wondering witch would be better one? I will be running all Knukonceptz 1/0 awg fleks wire with a big 3 upgrade with a new xs batt onder the hood so what amp would be the best thank you very much !

I have a Boston acoustics pro 12.5 sub(4 ohms) in custom box at Boston specs (sealed 1” mdf). It is rated at 1200w rms and iam now using a 600w rms(Hertz class D). Although it sounds pretty good, cant help wondering how much difference a 1000-1200w amp would sound compared to the 600w amp. Need advice from people with experience trying different amps with the same sub.