Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ive been told that this is a good amp for the money im not sure if this has been posted yet or not haven't seen it. but i here its just about the same as the saz 3000d but cheaper. ive called the place and they said a couple people that have fi subs bought this amp and have good reviews on it. i mean the amp looks good he told me its just as the saz 3000d they don't believe in charging a lot of money on their amps it comes with a two year warranty whether i have it or i give it to someone else i just wanna know if anybody here has had any experience with it personally?? thank you Crescendo Audio :: Amplifers :: 3KWP Monoblock Amplifier

Quick question for all of you who are a lot smarter than me! My math told me it wasn't enough but I wanted to double check with you all. If my sound system drives 4100 watts will a 270 amp Max 200 idle alternator be able to support it? Especially accounting a/c etc. If it will that would be awesome, but if not I'll just go with SSA Icons instead of xcons. Ps I know I could probably get multiple alternators but it would be a tight fit, and personally don't have the capability so it would probably cost too much.

I drive a 2001 GMC Jimmy 4 door with a 4.3L Vortec V6 and want a 200 amp or so alternator to replace my stock one with and would like recommendations on what companies to look at. I am considering Excessive Amperage, Mean Green, PowerMaster and KnuKonceptz. There were others but I forgot them. Any feedback is appreciated.

Just ordered up my HO Alt from www.mechman.com =). This guy was referred to me by scottiej from powermaster and he has like every alt ya need and they are darn good prices. Got a 250 amp alt btw =). I guess they aren't like regular HO Alts that just get the windings replaced... they are actually like larger alts that fit into the stock locations and don't sag at low rpms like most HO's do. Great guy and I would recommend him to anyone =) THANKS SCOTTIE!

Hi guys, Can anyone suggest a good flip up touch screen unit. Just looking for something thats decent and will look good in the car Josh

soo i started my truck up at the bar,dude wanted to hear the system, cranked it up played a new cd i got. so my amp went into protect. i assume i clip at 26 vol on my head unit it goes to 30. i played it at 26. played the amp at what i would play it to do a demo with out distortion (by ear)and it went into protect! never had this problem AND i just put a xs 3400 under the hood it was at 14.5ish volts no drop....sooo like any ideas why this happened anything i should check or what not?

Alright guys, I'm looking to expand my knowledge on car audio and I'm wanting to look into active setups and how they work, do's and dont's, ect. I'm not trying to look lazy here and not able to do my own research but I cant seem to find some quality websites explaining this when I search it up. Anything will help, either your own knowledge or websites that you know of. Thanks -Mike

if i have two of the same amps can i link them or are there only certain amps that you can link together?

well just like the topic title suggests i have a problem with my amp. i have 2 2400's and i strapped them to my FI BTL 18. one amp per coil. amps are stable to 2 ohms i have dual 2 ohm coils. now im pretty sure the amps dont truley strap together but they have the slave copy master switch to match gains and xovers well i set them up how the book said and it was workin but just didnt sound like i had 2 amps on the sub. so i started foolin with the switches. well needless to say i messed up onw of the amps and also blew my sub, both coils. now one amp is fine and works perfectly it was the master amp. the slave amp still works but when i turn the LPF up it makes a buzzi…

Hey im in the market for a new headunit looking to spend between $200 and $300. Functions i need direct ipod connect with controlls, Atleast three pre amp out puts, seprate sub control. I have been looking at the Kenwwod decks online but have nowhere around me to mess with them in person. Also considering Alpine and maybe pioneer but not really liking the button layout of the new ones. If some one could help me out i would appreciate it. Thanks

I'm getting my fully loaded Fi BTL N2 18'' soon. I'm still not sure what amp to get without overpowering or under powering the BTL. Do you think 1 Rockford t2500bdcp would be too much for it (it put out 2500watts at 1ohm and 2 ohm)?? Or also im thinking about getting 2 rockford T1000bdcp's (which puts out 1000watts at 1ohm or 2ohm) and hooking up one amp on each coil on the BTL. Let me know what you guys think Thank you

Ok guys I recently put in an 18" fi bl with a Sundown Sae-1200dv2 into a 2009 ford escape. The box is around 7 cubes tuned to 32 hertz. Amp is being ran at 1 ohm. All power and ground wire is being ran in 1/0 Knu. Under the hood i have only upgraded my battery negative to chassis ground power wire to 1/0 ga. Everything is properly installed wiring wise, I'm having a problem with the amp going into protection mode when playing music higher volumes. The bass boost is all the way down on the amp and the gain is set to 1/2 and everything else was set by a buddy of mine more experienced with car audio. What happens is when i have the gain on my knob turned up to about 3/4 mayb…

Anyone remember these? RFX8250? The major HU boner from a year or two ago? Anyway, I bought one on sale from Sounddomain and have been using it for maybe a year and a half. The other day, the aux input suddenly decided to stop working, and I don

I tried emailing powerbass on how to get some XA 3000D amps, I need to run 2 12" MT for street b. I was wondering, where I can possibly buy one from?

Alright.. just placed my order for a 18" BTL fully loaded yesterday, i already have a Sundown SAZ1500D.. im worried its not going to be enough power.. maybe im wrong? lol.. what else is out there that isnt outrageous in price but does its job? im lookin for over a 2000 rms amp. and needs 1 ohm stability. Like i said.. maybe my sundown will work fine.. but with all the damn money im dumpin into this build as far as battery's, wires, alternator and all that good stuff, i want to really get this BTL movin.

I have a 5500watt amp that is 70% efficient which makes 3850watts to use. I have a 250amp alternator and my car uses up 27amps of that alternator so i have 223 amps from my alternator. i have replaced my BIG 3 with 0 gauge, and will have my system (an 18" Fi BTL dual 2) ran with 0ga and the speaker wire in 10ga. If i worked everything out correctly using 13v i should be looking for a 31ah battery but i know that i want to go much higher to run off of my battery and not my alt. What do i look for in a battery? and if possible what kind would you all recommend? should i use more then one?

So I got my JL 500/1 for my sub setup Friday, didn't have time to install it til today... One issue... The amp doesn't seem to kick in until I hit about 50% of max on my Pioneer HU.. I know it is not the HU because it was beatin' in the morning with my old setup (Kenwood).. Two things happened when doing the "swap" of amplifiers... 1. Apparently one of the ring terminals on the wiring was shitty, and came out... 2. I replaced the terminal with a new one I bought at BestBuy just so I could get it done... When installing this onto the capacitor that was already in my car I accidentally touched the wire to both ends... Spark and sizzle but everything seemed ok... Now again..…

Hey do any of you have a good link to the RMS specs for the VFL Comp 2K Amp listed on the SSA site. I just got one and it's a big ol beast of a hunk of metal but the booklet that came with it is one of those one size fits all VFL Amps booklet so it shows all kinds of wiring options but zero in the way of specs and I'm trying to set my gains on my amps without the help of an oscope (believe me I'm ordering one this week) anyway until I can do this I still need those specs so I feel safe.. not that I can't hear distortion but as much as I want to check what's going on and I'm just OCD like this. Thank you! Continue with what you were doing.

A carry over from Fordexplorer.net Charging System Basics: The electrical system in an automobile is said to be a 12 volt system, but this is slightly misleading. The charging system in most cars will generally produce a voltage between 13.5 and 14.4 volts while the engine is running. It has to generate more voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. This may seem strange, but the current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage was the same as the battery voltage. A greater difference of potential (voltage) between the battery's voltage and the alternator's output volt…

Well fellas, i need some 4 channel amp... i sold my alpine 300s I see in inet the eclipse ea4000, 75x4...... the range of price its 180-240bucks.... this amp amplifier 2 DLS R5 comps (80rms/93db) i need at all coast.. CLARITY thanks SS forum!

The amp has 5x30amp fuses, so what type of cables and fuse should i use....I'm thinking 2 gauge cable from batt to distribution block and 4 gauge from block to amp what fuses should i use?....the dude at the local stereo shop said the amp will not actually pull 150amps and said i would only need a 120amp block and i think it had 2 60amp fuses in parallel or something like that IDK and what should i use near the batt, the same?

I'm lookin at a few units with time alignment and won't break the bank. Eclipse and Clarion are the ones I've paid specific attention to. I kinda want to keep my Eclipse 8053 but would like some of the new features like USB/bluetooth. I am looking at HUs with time alignment and possibly a decent crossover built in but not necessary as I am thinkin of getting an external one. Anyone with first-hand experience or links to reviews?

Anyone have any good setups with this amp? Modded or not? A d200? I want to know how much I can really get out of it..have only seen it do work in 4 ohm. I got one off my buddy with a dmged Fi Q for only 200$. I thought it was a steal...

Hi guys, I've been driving a lot more now and I was looking to get some better sounds since my current set up is factory. I'm hoping to spend around $600 NZD (~$400 USD) on it all. Here's what I've been looking at so far Amplifier http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/jvc-ks-ax4550-4-channel-power-amplifier.html#first Speakers http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/?p=productsMore&iProduct=1199&sName=fusion-en-cm650 and http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/alpine-sps-600-speakers.html or http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/car-speakers/alpine-sps-400-speakers.html Head Deck Unit http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/head-decks/sony-xplod/sony-cdxgt-480u-…

basicly when i hook up the 12v source it cuts on without the rem connection and stays on, even if i conncet the rem. i'll recheck it in the morn, cuz its rainin, but yea.