Fi Technical

A buddy of mine has an Orion amp, I'm not sure on the model of it but it's a 2400 watt amp and the yellow ecp light I think it is comes on and there is no output from the sub so I'm just kind of wondering what the ecp light is for and why it is on.

So while waiting for my sub to arrive I've been messing around in sketchup, which I just learned to use. This is only my second design but I think it's pretty good. Let me know what you guys think. Only thing I'm weary about is how the sub will be right in front of where the port begins. Is this a problem? Maybe I can go narrower on the port and make it longer... Edit: Forgot to mention it's for a Fi Q 12". Also not sure of the port displacement. 3.43 would probably make more sense for a sealed enclosure...how do I take into account the port? 3.43 cu. ft. @ 31 Hz

So I just ordered an Fi Q 12" a few days ago. I only got the cooling option, didn't think the others would really be necessary. I also ordered an Audioque AQ1200D to push it. Only thing I still haven't made up my mind about is the enclosure. I do have limited trunk space, the recommended Q 12" ported box in the cut sheets thread will fit my trunk exactly with no room to spare. Sealed would be fine, but I really want to go ported. The car is an 09 GTI. Music would mostly be drum n bass, dubstep, other electronic music, basically a mix of lows and highs. I could either go sealed or a smaller ported box. I just want the clarity and crispiness along with being able to be hear…

I'm planning on getting a 12" Fi Q (dual 1 ohm with cooling, spider and heat ring) and putting it in a ported box and I am on the hunt for an amp to boot. I think I found what i want and its a Hifonics HFi1000D but i also saw a Hifonics HFi1200D for $50 more so i was wondering if its a good idea to go with the extra 200 watts and if i should just stay around 1000 watts since thats what the sub is rated at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23548_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ1200.1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html edit: added the amps link.

I am about to build a new box for my bl and I wanted to know if it would sound better with the sub facing up and the port facing the back door on my jeep or have the sub and port on the same side?

WHICH DESIGN WOULD BE BETTER THE SUBS SHOOTING UP WITH THE PORT AT THE BOTTOM SHOOTING BACK, OR SUBS AND PORT FACING THE SAME DIRECTION.

I'm planning on a new system in my 1970 oldsmobile cutlass. I wanted it to include 2 btl subs with my. rockford fosgate t4000bd amp. I was wonderng if amlnyone has any sugestions on any aftrmarket alternators. I was also wondering if Im able to just add a second alternator to my car or would that increase the voltage were it would screw up the cars electrical as well as burn up the amp. -Thanx, Jack

SO my buddy just picked up 5 diamond cm310d4's but two of them need to be reconed so i got a couple of q's 1. can you guys make up the recones an ship them out or would they have to be done inhouse? 2. what does he need to give you as far as messurements? (if recone is shiped) 3.would he also have to order new baskets since his are a stamped 8 spoke? 4.what would the price be on each one? (would it be cheaper to do all 5 at once) thanks for your help

As of right now, I have 2 800 watt sony amps. Its about 350 RMS at 2 ohms, and is unstable at 1 ohm. My link I have a BL 15, and I'm wondering if this severe underpowering of the sub is dangerous. I don't have the money right now to upgrade on an amp. Also, is it possible to use both the 800 watt amps to power the one 15?

when u enter the box design posted on the forums for the ssd into the re box calculator i get a tune of 30 hz ??? is this right cuz i need to change the dimensions a bit for it to work for me i making a rear center console for a 10 ssd. and also i can only seem to get 17" of port area not the 27 i assume i need will this be a problum ??? and also i will not have a L port just a straight slot. any suggestions or help would be appreciated thx

What does the flatwind coil and bp power options do when buying the subwoofer? Im new to Fi and what the subs for spl.

Before I explain my question I want to say I know WinISD is not going to accurately represent the output in a car, I am just using it to get a general idea of the frequency response shape of the box itself. I am trying to help a friend decide on what subs to get for his new setup. I am strongly pushing a pair Fi 12's and he asked me to design a box for him. With most drivers I put into WinISD a get reasonable looking response curves when putting in the recommended enclosure specs, and then I go on and alter designs from that point. With a pair of Fi Q 12's I started with a 4.2 cubic foot box tuned to 32Hz and this is the shape of the response I got... I suspect it is be…

Well here is the thing. Yesterday I tore out all my 4 gauge wiring to upgrade it to 1/0 welding cable, soldered and heat shrink and all that good stuff. Anyways I decided to take my sub out of it's box to look at it. It's been 2 years since I took it out and it wouldnt hurt to check for any wear/possible damage. I amost forgot what the back of the sub looked like lol. So I noticed the sub is "double slugged" or how people call it. I remember on Fi's website the Q had one magnet. So my question is why did they make the older Q with 2 and the newer ones with 1? Anything changed? Any sort of benefits from it or what? Just courious though. I was thinking of getting anothe…

hello, ive been looking on her for the past while and only see box designs made up for 1 btl 18. does anyone have anything made of for 2 of them? thanks

Where can I find some box cutouts for the old school black fiday x series 12". Can I use the new X cut outs or can I use the ssa dcon 12 cut outs. the dcons look like they are the same as the black fiday 12".

Does anyone have or know where to find a wiring diagram that shows how to wire a single 1 ohm sub to 2 ohms?

Hello guys, New to the Fi World and need some help making the right subwoofer choice between 10" or 12" before ordering. This will be a trunk install in a Honda S2000 CR so space is a bit limited and box will need to be sealed. System Build (so far): Enclosure "Sealed" Max 1.0 cubic ft before displacement. Max mounting depth ~7.75" Power (2) Digital Designs SS1's strapped = 1200 watts clean (from a previous install) HeadUnit Kenwood KIV-BT900 4.0V pre-amp outputs Wire KnuKonceptz 1/0 awg Battery/Alt Stock for now Distribution Block SoundStream PowerPlant Front stage TBD...DLS, Focal, etc. Although I was interested in the BTL-N1, the mounting depth probably will not allo…

Hi, in the future, I am going to order a btl n2 12 and build the box up to reccomendations, and I just want to know what am I to expect from this subwoofer spl, sq and just over all loudness wise. This will be my first system, I just want to know should I be set with just 1 btl 12?

Just bought a pair of the older double slug Q15's for my buddies install in his Suburban. Can't remember the specs of these models, so I wanted to get it straight from you guys at Fi. They are fully loaded and I also believe they are the high QTS models, as the previous owner had them installed in sealed boxes.... My friend is looking to have me design a sealed enclosure for them, and I am not sure what the recommended volume is for them. Can you help me out? They will be powered with an MB Quart Onyx 1000 @ 2 ohms for about 750 RMS to the pair. Possibly will add a second amp to power each sub on its own amp later down the road, but that has not been decided yet. Merry Ch…

Ok so i have had my Fi BTL for a cppl months now and i was bumping it today and the Dustcap flew off. Does my warranty cover repairs on that? if so how do i go about getting it fixed?

Hello guys, So I need some help with understanding what is going on with my trunk. I had a bmw sedan E36 style, 2X 12" Qs and a RF T15001d... I open the trunk the subs are not distorting what so ever at 3/4vol on the head unit after DMM the amp to the recommended RMS value, But i close the trunk and it sounds like complete hell in the car. Its like the bass is trapped in the trunk? Do you guys think i should make a new deck out of wood with huge holes in it, and cut the metal one out so that I can get some pressure loss in the trunk, so that the pressure will go into the cab? Also the box is at 4 cuin @ 32.5 hz, "thats all i could fit in the trunk, theres not alot of ro…

Folks, I want to try to do my first DIY subwoofer for home theater. I've heard some folks say that the SSD or Q series model well for home theater? Which driver would be best.....and what size enclosure (I can build a slot ported box) for home theater use? I would like to be able to go low....but still use for music. Edit: This will be an 18" build...... Thanks! Chris

Well my issue here is a i just picked up a fi btl n2 (came in today) and i'm going to start building the box for it soon. i recently found out to quite a bit of dissapointment, that my rockford fosgate t2500-1bdCP doesn't have a variable subsonic filter, but rather a cheesy switched one. I know i need to tune my amp 2-3 hertz below my enclsoures PTF, but what if my enclosure ends up being out of range or the amplifiers tuning controls? Crossover Controls Low-Pass (LP): 35Hz-250Hz @ 24dB/octave Butterworth Infrasonic: 12dB/octave Butterworth, -3dB @ 28Hz any insight guys?

I have a 12" bl and I currently have it wired with 16 gauge speaker wire and I am about to re-wire it with 12 gauge, by doing this can I expect a a change in the output of the sub?

alrighty fellas i've decided to go with a 18'' btl-n2 and my truck is a 2000 gmc sierra ext cab long bed. i know the rear seat is gonna be gone i am planning on pushing the 18 with a soundstream dtr3400 and a ported box tuned around 32 hz so if anyone can reccomend enclosure specs i beleive my dimensions with the back seat out are 54'' long , 34'' tall, 24'' deep. if any body can help me out i greatly appreaciate it