Fi Technical

okay so I have posted on here a time or two before when first acquiring my FI audio speakers. I am driving a 2010 Chevy Malibu two fully loaded 12" Fi Q's, built for a sealed enclosure due to the lack of space to slide a box in the trunk. I have a Brutus BRZ 2400 hooked up to them, running them wired down to 1 ohm resistance. I also have a kinetic 2400 battery, nothing done to battery up front or alternator. 0 gauge knukoncepts ran throughout This is my daily driver and i run the system every time im on the road (on highways for 2.5+ hours a day) the RMS rating for these subs is 1500 apiece if i remember correctly, and from what I have heard, added resistance when turnin…

for starters 2002 ford mustang gt double din jvc Big 3 upgrade 250 amp alternator running hifonics brx 2400.1 with 640.4 both brx changed up build was going to run 1 fi bl 12 dual 1 already ordered and on the way but ran into a fi btl 18dual 2 my game plan is to remove back seat and build sub enclose there web site says 5 to 8 cubes tuned 32 htz got just barely enough room for 7 cubic foot box with amps in trunk lol! Is it possible to get go low end with 5 cubes trying to open a little area other wise the 18 is 3 inches from my head in case I didn't say 18 is sub I will use also do have xs battery coming also I guess im asking for help to design size of box and port si…

I've had a Fi Q 12" for several years now... I think I got it in 2008, maybe 2009, but it was before they changed some of the options available. At the time there weren't many options and I went with the most basic setup available. Basically, I've had to reduce my trunk space consumption by moving my audio gear (wife and I had a baby in September!). Last summer I managed to move my Kicker ZX200.2 amp which is powering my front speakers (Eclipse SC6500 6.5" components with passive crossovers) and attach it to an accessible metal panel in my trunk, and I actually completely removed my Fi Q 12" in a 1.25cuft (gross, not net) box, and my Kicker ZX750.1 amp that Kicker rated…

Finally got my hands back on some straight street jam material. AKA: Qs and a BTL UFO I've seen some UFO BTLs have a spacer in between basket and the motor. Is this just an adapter for basket patterns or is it a beneficial option to the sub? Excited for my new Fi experience and so is the wife =]

Ok. So i recently bought some BNIB SP4 from a local IAK member. Nice subs look great coils check out everything is all gravy with that. I have been out of audio a bit the last couple years and haven't been on here much. So I look up some things on the sp4's and I keep seeing articles of them catching fire. I had a Bl about 6 years ago catch fire, but I was a bit younger and was clipping the shit out of it. I keep reading and reading and most say it is user end failure. Also my specific sp4's have the spider spacer, and I go to the Fi website and they no longer offer that option. So with that being said, why is that option no longer available? Should I be concerned about…

Hey fellow forum go'ers, long time reader first time poster. Just recently pulled the trigger on a BL 12 cant wait for it to show up, and for some reason work thinks all the box calculator sites need to be blocked So here's my what i have BL12 d1vc powering it with a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP i need a box design max dimensions are 20Wx18Dx26H max its going in the backseat of a f-150 extended cab in place of the stupid little jumber seat behind the driver seat. If one of you fantastic box guru's could lend me a hand with a slot ported box tuned to 32hz i would much appreiciate it. I think 32hz is what im after anyways listen to most everything. Thanks all i…

Would I be able to get a machined compression plug for my RE XXX v3 motor on my next recone to help with cooling? Will it negatively affect performance?

I'm planning on building a box for my sub, but I cant find the parameters anywhere on Fi's website. does anyone have a link or know what the parameters are?

So my 1st sp4, caught on fire in my trunk, i was told it was user error (even tho i believe it wasnt) - as i own a Tripple stack btl, hdc 4, Mtx 9500, DD 9500, hdc 3 10s, xfl 12s, and none of them have caught on fire.. but now this Sp4, the damn lead came loose from the coil i guess? i took a pic of it. Im sure this will be ruled as user error (even though i more then likely will not agree with it) however, you guys are the experts so i was wondering if you could let me know what may have caused this.. Everything was perfect, 1 coil just stopped working..

hey guys I'm looking to get to BL12 but wanna hit 150db or more. Any advice on enclosures AND what sort of amp or power do i need to accomplish my goal? my purpose is all out sol here to get a high score with 1 single 12" sub!

I've had this sub as my daily for only about 2 months and it finally feels like it's getting broken in. At the moment I have it on a hifonics brx2400 along with a kinetik hc600 (will be upgrading soon) 220 amp alt and runs of knukonceptz 0 gauge CCA (will be upgrading to OFC). Anyway my question is, why after bumping for about 30+ min does the dustcap progressively get warmer?? I had this problem before with some crappy RF p2's getting extremely warm on the cone right above the voice coil, but they were being pushed at full rms with good electrical. NOW i am pushing a 3k rms woofer with just a hifonics (probably 2000 watts) and poor electrical (for the time being). Ho…

for 2 SP4 18's what else does this box need? do i have any errors in my math? gross volume 19.48 port length 26 (+2.5" for kerf correction) 30hz tune 14.37 cubic feet net volume .38 displacement .52 woffer displacement 1 extra baffle port thickness .75" box wood 1" MDF 204.25" squared of port area with 1:2.26 ratio http://i.imgur.com/MFLyfWx.jpg]

Hi, I am missing the spaced spider option, what happend to this? Is this option still avalible?

can anyone tell me if i can fit 2 BL 15s in my trunk the biggest dimensions i can fit are 17" height, 27" depth, 37" width, i dont think i can do a trunk facing enclosure but i think i might be able to wall off at the back seats. Running in a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero sedan Cresendo bc2000d at .5 ohm

whenever i plug in or out my mp3 player into the stereo my Fi Car Audio SSD 12 makes a pop sound .. so when i was playing my music i gradually made the volume louder then all of a sudden the sub will pop and start this loud humming noise.. i dont think i blew it because i played it again and it sounded fine until the pop and humming sound came again

I just received my fully loaded 12" Q with high qts option. Was wondering if anyone has been trying or testing sealed enclosures and has some recommendations/tips? I love lows. Had an 18" Q tuned to 28hz for a while but the box is just far too large and heavy for me. Im thinking of building it 1.5-1.75cuft while empty and putting some poly fill against the inner walls... not sure how the box size is affecting the woofer's output exactly.

I have a guy waning to buy my SP4 so im considering an upgrade. the low end bass of the 29hz box has grown on me and i want it louder. my thought was to keep my 8.2 cubic box that i have my SP4 in and use that for a Team 18. I currently run a single KX2500.1 (2005 model) for my SP4. I was thinking of setting it up with a second KX2500.1 and buying a dual 2 ohm T18. then running 1 amp per coil, throwing my factory alt back into my truck and bracketing my mechman next to it. taking my 3 AGM G49's and isolating them along with the mechman into a dedicated power plant for the stereo and letting my factory alt handle my normal vehicle needs with a couple cheap lead acid batter…

My friend and I are starting to build a system for his 2004 Tahoe. We are running 4 sp4 18s. We was wondering what kind of air space and tuning we should run. The amp we are using is an American Bass VFL1100.1. Your help is appreciated.

Can we get a section pinned to this forum of the options and what they do with the sp4 and also enclosure recommendations

how much power could one safely put into a fully loaded Fi q 18? i got my sp4 fixed and will be testing some boxes but if i dont get the sounds i want i am going to sell it and buy another sub. the Q seems a logical choice as i want more frequencies but also want to keep the volume. i am undecided on single or dual or sealed vs ported. my thought was that if i replace the SP4 i would get 2 q's and thus have greater cone area with more control and higher bass frequency range. in my mind that would mean i could get more volume out of them than the sp4. the power handling would be close to the same

I just installed my new Fi Q12 today, and it sounds fantastic for the most part. But there are a few frequencies that are causing a loud rattling/popping noise. It's in a sealed box, I'm 100% certain I'm not clipping it, or overpowering it. Lower frequencies don't cause the noise, just higher ones around 100 hz I'd guess. The noise only happens at mid to high volume. It sounds like the noise is coming from directly behind the dustcap. Is the problem a loose dustcap? Any input is appreciated.

that is 1.5 cu.ft after displacement at 35 hz,has anyone here done this? if so,how did it do ?

I just ordered 3 SP4 15's and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on enclosure size, tuning and square inches of port for it to hammer. They are going in my SUV and I will power them with 3 Rockford Fosgate 2500bdcp amps. My dimensions are 46W x 38D x 23H. I have no wiggle room for width but for depth and a little higher I do.

Hello everyone, Im looking for some input on new woofers. Looking to do two 12's in 6.5 cubes, ported to 29 hrz.(havnt designed yet) I am stuck between FI Q's and BL's I understand that its not entirely fair to compare specs of subs as there are many variables involved, but how does the BL's motor compare to the Q's? The Q having 28mm of Xmax and the BL having 19mm xmax. Is the BL's motor just much more powerfull? What are the real world diffrences and which one is better for my application? Amp is: 4,000 watts rms(1ohm). they will be wired down to one ohm

So, I'm waiting on my loaded dual 2-ohm SP4 15" driver. I've been paying around with designs using Torres box calculator and Winisd and I'm hoping I've got something usable. After playing with a mock-up box (reinforced poster-board + hot glue did the trick), I figured out that the biggest size I can fit comes up to kinda disappointing dimensions: Outer dimensions - 16" tall X 26.75" wide X 23" deep Inner port dimensions - 14.75" X 3", 27.5" long for an estimated tuning of 32hz after driver/Plexiglas (details later)/bracing displacement Net volume comes up to a whopping 3.42 cubic feet, with 44.25 square inches of port. This is with all 3/4" MDF as well as an extra l…