Fi Technical

I have attached a photo. the leads where built in but need to get this puppy rebuilt. I had my installer rebuild all 4 of my 15" and one took the dust. He had told me he ordered off the FI site but can not find the options he told me my subs had. From what he told me Dual .7 coils 3 back stiff coils 2 yellow (one with woven leads. i belive there wher 4 leads per post each. blank dust caps. reg fi cone and foam surround. My subs are the dual stacked. I have attached a photo. Thanks for the help. 154.00 @ 29hz

I have a fi q 12. I didnt choose the high qts option because i had planned for a ported box, but ported is wayy to big for my little trunk lol Would it matter if i put the sub, without the high qts, in a sealed box? If it matters, im going to put it in the smallest bOx possible I dont plan on running the sub to the max, just some extra bass for daily driving. Also, i hate rattling, so you can bet i wont run it any where near max output.

I am running a kicker 1500.1 and a dual 1 ohm 15'' bl from my factory nav/cd player in 05 escalade using a audio control epicenter plus and was told that my kicker amp does NOT have subsonic filtering for the sub PLEASE what do I do? Also my box is 4.00ft.^3, port area 56.00in.^2, and tuned at 30hz

Just wondering what options I have to get this motor reconed. Are there any options I can choose to build a custom or hybrid sub or do you only have a standard setup for recones. thanks

which amps should i use for a 18 blt fuly loaded dual 1ohm's?

I've been searching google for a long time now, trying to find the actual formula. I have always used an online calculator when building my boxes, and ended up just building where I thought looked good. I was using this calculator here: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 because I am wanting to build a new enclosure for my yukon, but I keep getting different figures depending on if the width of the port is larger, or the height. I want to build a box with 20ft after displacement so each btl will have its minimum 5ft. I was going to see how long I needed to make the slot port if I just stretched it across the bottom of the box. The box external dimensions are…

So I have a 10" Q I'll be running about 1000 rms to. What kind of box dimensions do you recommend. I bought a prefab box for $20 because I figured if it didn't work, oh well I'm out 20 bucks. Well, the Q is a little oversized for the box so I figured, well, might as well just build one. What dimensions should I build it if I plan to run the above mentioned power? Is the .6 cubes best or would it be better to have closer to 1?

Hello all, First post here, so be kind to an old-schooler... Looking to do a bed box in my Chev 1500 step side. Max dimensions I've got are: Width = 48 Height = 18 Depth = variable I'd like to go with 2 BTL 12's, dual 1ohm. Both subs will be powered by a RF T2500. Wondering if one of you fine gentleman would point me in the right direction with: Net Vb for common chamber enclosure... 2.65 cu.ft. per sub? Optimum vent dimensions based on a 16.5" vent height? Hopefully I provided enough info... I certainly don't expect a full design, maybe just some guidance. Thanks guys, C

I need a box for meca event the 20th here is what i have to work with 18 tall 24 deep 49 wide please help i'm try to break the 50's sorry it's in a 98 tahoe

Looking at Possibly Doing 2 18" SSD's in the Trunk of a Lincoln Town Car (1996)..On a Massive p1500.1,,, I was just wondering on overall efficiency on the ssd's.. ive yet to play around much with 18's and i figured i could fit a good 12+ cu ft back there.. Im thinking possibly subs up vent back but was wondering everyones input on overall sub/port placement on that specific vehicle

Ok, so my fully loaded 18" BTL should be here on wed., I want to get started on the box in the next couple of days. But I have no hands on experience with this sub, and I don't like relying on a computer program. So, I need to know what size box/tuning I should be looking at for it, all info listed below. 18" Fully loaded BTL, powered by an MA Audio HK4000D @ 1 ohm, so roughly 3500ish rms. I don't listen to THAT much rap, but still want it to hit the lows.I listen to stuff with a lot of double kicks, which I don't want to sound really sloppy/mushed together. So, cliff notes. BTL 18, 3500rms, and lots of double kick drums Also, PLEASE do not reply if you do not know what …

I have 2 fully loaded BL 12's that are dual 2ohm and want to make them dual 1ohm. How hard is it to get them switched over? I have no skill at recone myself so do i need to send that back to FI? They are 3 months new.

Hi all, I have, what I hope is an easy question.... I have a pair of fully loaded BL 10's, So I am using WinISD to design a box, and I have some missing driver parameters: Pe: ????? ( I was assuming 1000watts ) Le: ????? Z: ????? Any help would be most appreciated! I currently have them housed in a 2.56 cu ft boxed tuned to 28.33 hz that I built for my previous cerwin vega v-max's, and the FI's sound really good in it, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything by not building a spec'd out box. Thanks!

Ok i wanna take a go at the blow throu deal. Can anyon help me ? I need tips. Do i make my port the blow throu part or just make the box and set port infront of it. Wat are some ways to make the box weather proof. How should i make the blow throu on the bottom or standing up? Thanks

Hello, I have been thinkging about buying a new sub and one of the members of another forum I visit is always raving about Fi subs so I decided to have a look for myself. I have been trying to read up on the forum and think I have decided on a sub, but I am not too sure about the box. Based on what I have read it seems that a 12" Q is what I am looking for. I want a good sounding sub with the ability to play low and loud. I only really want 1 sub as my trunk space is limited and I'm not trying to win any spl competitions. Basically it will be in my daily driver. Right now I am still in the research stage but have no clue about a box. I don't know if sealed or port…

I was originally talking to Scott about a Q 18 in my h/t setup, but I have a chance to get a used SSD 15 instead. It needs reconed, so I was just wondering about the best coil for the recone, and a few questions. I was planning on asking for the copper coils with the recone, but I was just wondering if it would be best with my setup. I was goin to use one of the following plate amps with it, so around 500rms at 4 ohms. Bash 500 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-752 Dayton 500 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-806 At the moment I'm leaning more towards the Dayton, but I wasn't sure if it was worth the price difference. Also cou…

Folks, I want to try to do my first DIY subwoofer for home theater. I've heard some folks say that the SSD or Q series model well for home theater? Which driver would be best.....and what size enclosure (I can build a slot ported box) for home theater use? I would like to be able to go low....but still use for music. Edit: This will be an 18" build...... Thanks! Chris

room wise im stripping everything out of the back of my car and starting again.. the box in there is 3.5CUft with displacment to give you an idea on how big it is, i need some ideas of port and sub postioning which way to face them, where to put them? and general box design also some advice on the actual sub will be using for : Daily use 2000RMS @30Hz so what options would be best for the sub? Vw lupo thank you

Hello everyone, I am trying to decide if I should just get an amp that will do full power at 2 ohms or order a D1 BL 10 and a recone for my BL 10 with the universal option. My current amp is 1 ohm stable, it "Can" run at .5 but only if my electrical system can support it, which it cant because its all stock. So, on to the real question, if I just order another BL 10 D2 and run my eD 9.1 at 2 ohms for 900 to 1000 watts rms, will my BL's still sound decent with only 500 watts rms. I know underpowering will not hurt a sub unless you clip, I know the recommended rms for the BL is 1000 rms, I know I should have considered all of this BEFORE I ordered my BL in D2. But I had pla…

Im running a T20001bd to each fully loaded BTL.. how much output would I lose if i ran each sub in 3.5 NET compared to 5 net.? Tuned to about 32hz..

currently have 2 18" bl's off a kx2500.1 @ 1 ohm. birthsheet states ~3kw @ 2 ohms. here is my post copied from ca.com "currently they are sitting in 11.5 cubes or so tuned to about 35hz. output is pretty good but still not quite where i want it to be. seems like with my ammount of power they should be louder, especially for 2 18's. the only thing i can think of is box volume being on the small side. i was told by the FI guys that 5.5-6 cubes would be fine with my power, but im having doubts now. im thinking of sacrificing my rear seats and build the box to take up the whole cargo area but still be at/under the window line. this would give me a chit load more room to work …

I will soon be running a fully loaded BTL 15 in a 4 cu ft ported box. Which tuning would be better SPL wise, 45, 48, or 50 hz? I know it is a bad question because it varies, but what has been a good SPL tuning most people have been using? Thanks Dustin If it would be best to build a bigger box would a 4.5 cu ft box after displacements be a good volume for SPL? Thanks. Dustin

Just wanted to know what peoples thoughts are on the aq1200d amp.. how are they? will they hit hard with the 15" BL ? i heard their rms output is unnderated. but listed at 1200RMS at 1 ohm

I may be getting a blown Q 18" in a trade with a gentelman over on ROE, I want to recone it down to a 15" or a 12" , probably a 15". The guy said Scott quoted him $75 for an 18" recone kit, how much is the 15" and the 12" recone kit plus a 15" or 12" basket.

I've got a couple IB 15" for home theater use. I was wondering how these would sound in a panel van. With a VAS of 270 I figured I'd make a 10 ft^3 sealed enclosure for each and give them a try. Anyone have any input?