Fi Technical

Just was wondering, how much rms do you guys think a new FIBL 15 daily with no upgrades could take?

i just ordered two fi btl 18s fully loaded like two days ago and have been researching all about them great subs is what ive been hearing, but im going to build my own ported box for them and have tryed using the t/s parameters listed on fi's website and i plug them in my bass box pro 6 and my winiSD and the programs basically end up saying that fi's t/s parameters are incorrect, because after ive typed in all listed parameters it says recommend internal size 5.25 cu. ft for two of the 18's i dont know whats wrong... and what do you guys think would be best box design and port design for 2 btl 18 fully loaded dual 2 ohms, 4 hifonics brz 1700.1D amps (amp per voice coil) (…

Is there any recommended size fastners to use on the N3? From what i saw the holes were only about 1/8".

ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

Before I explain my question I want to say I know WinISD is not going to accurately represent the output in a car, I am just using it to get a general idea of the frequency response shape of the box itself. I am trying to help a friend decide on what subs to get for his new setup. I am strongly pushing a pair Fi 12's and he asked me to design a box for him. With most drivers I put into WinISD a get reasonable looking response curves when putting in the recommended enclosure specs, and then I go on and alter designs from that point. With a pair of Fi Q 12's I started with a 4.2 cubic foot box tuned to 32Hz and this is the shape of the response I got... I suspect it is be…

Does this look good?

Just got my 18" Q w/BP in the mail yesterday. (thx scott). Next week is spring break and I need a box design for the back of a 97 blazer. I have about 8 cubes to work with. Accordman from steavemeadeforums told me to go 6.3 ft^3 and 90 in^3 of port, which results in a 32-33 hz tuning. I have never worked with 18's before, and I've heard certain boxes for 18" Q's can really restrict their output. I only have about 1000 watts RMS from a bxi1206d to work with for now, but plan on upgrading to 1400watts rms. My goal is to make a well balanced box. Not pure SPL or superlow tuning for SQ. I just want to get the most, good sounding output from the sub. And i'm a broke a…

OKay so i have 10 cubic ft box i need to figure out how long the port needs to go into the box and the size of the port hole the box is 20"high x 40" long x 20" wide i need this for 2 Fi BTL N2 15's if anyone could help me out i would aprriciate it thank you

Just lookin for some input on an amp that will power a fully loaded 12in fi bl at 1 ohm. My sub will be here this week so i want to order my amp soon. Any input will help. Please state the amp/amps you reccomend and why.

So while waiting for my sub to arrive I've been messing around in sketchup, which I just learned to use. This is only my second design but I think it's pretty good. Let me know what you guys think. Only thing I'm weary about is how the sub will be right in front of where the port begins. Is this a problem? Maybe I can go narrower on the port and make it longer... Edit: Forgot to mention it's for a Fi Q 12". Also not sure of the port displacement. 3.43 would probably make more sense for a sealed enclosure...how do I take into account the port? 3.43 cu. ft. @ 31 Hz

How loud will his be, haha. No but seriously - I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know? I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential. The question pertains to the BL's cooling option- Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups usi…

Ordered an SP4 15. I'm designing my box and would like some opinions on lower tuning, 25-28ish hertz.I'll be running a crescendo bc3500. I know the "norm" is to have port tunng a bit higher, and my current sub is tuned to 32 (SSD 15) I was hoping to get some thoughts

1 12" Q with BP Power on a Rockford Fosgate 1500w amp wired at 1 ohm (so the sub will see 1500w) or 2 10" SSDs with flatwind coils and a US Amps MD 2D (so the subs will see around 750-900w a piece)... Both would be sealed setups. Thanks for the help

just got my 12 bl hooked up today... its killer on the lows like it hurts your ears but when it hits the highs you can barely hear them. maybe it will get better when it breaks in im not sure... just wondering if this is supposed to happen or not

So my 1st sp4, caught on fire in my trunk, i was told it was user error (even tho i believe it wasnt) - as i own a Tripple stack btl, hdc 4, Mtx 9500, DD 9500, hdc 3 10s, xfl 12s, and none of them have caught on fire.. but now this Sp4, the damn lead came loose from the coil i guess? i took a pic of it. Im sure this will be ruled as user error (even though i more then likely will not agree with it) however, you guys are the experts so i was wondering if you could let me know what may have caused this.. Everything was perfect, 1 coil just stopped working..

I recently reconed my BTL UFO 12" with high xmax option. I used the spacers provided to space the basket .250" above the bump in the motor. I first knocked the dust cap off in a huge box I had made for my zcon. 3.1 cu ft. tuned to 32. Glued it back up and I did it again. I built a new box because I thought big box, over powering, exc. could have been the cause. Plus it didn't sound that great (anticipated) I have a box made.. 2.4 cu ft. tuned to 32. Knocked the dust cap off again today. I am using household goop to glue the dust cap. Should I go with CA? Possibility that the recone was not made to be spaced from the motor?

So, I'm waiting on my loaded dual 2-ohm SP4 15" driver. I've been paying around with designs using Torres box calculator and Winisd and I'm hoping I've got something usable. After playing with a mock-up box (reinforced poster-board + hot glue did the trick), I figured out that the biggest size I can fit comes up to kinda disappointing dimensions: Outer dimensions - 16" tall X 26.75" wide X 23" deep Inner port dimensions - 14.75" X 3", 27.5" long for an estimated tuning of 32hz after driver/Plexiglas (details later)/bracing displacement Net volume comes up to a whopping 3.42 cubic feet, with 44.25 square inches of port. This is with all 3/4" MDF as well as an extra l…

i am toying with the idea of either a ported 10Q or a sealed 12Q. overall i want SQ, but want it to get loud. i listen to mostly rock music and really enjoy a good jamming bass line. i am a sales rep so i spend alot of time on the road and due to needing the space for samples i don't want a box much bigger than 1.5 cubes ( MAX ). my question is this- i already have the AX600DE-- is it enough to drive a 12Q sealed? i know that at 1 ohm it will drive 600W ( on paper ). the amp is extremely efficient, but will it really drive either Q? this is more of a question for Scott or someone with experience with Fi. i am not a newbie by any means- i am just looking for s…

How risky is it? I searched this forum and the web, and did not find this specific instance of question. I would be wiring it to 2 ohms (1200rms). Had I known bass would get this addictive, I would have got a BTL off the bat!!

I have two Fi Q 15's and would like to know whether to go sealed or ported? I love tight bass and also love the sound of a ported enclosure. I have the space for the ported enclosre (6.2 cu.ft)and i also have the space for the sealed enclouse. I love both sealed and ported enclosures. But which encloser would be the best for good sound quality and will also get loud. Any input is welcome. thanks

ok so ive had my sub for less than a month and today i heard strange pop. so i went to take a look and it just sound like a screw was loose. so i took the sub out and it wasn't that. Then i played the sub out of the box and when i turned the volume to about 30/62 it started making the same noise. it sounds like its coming from the center of the sub. so my question is what could it be.

I'm sure it's probably not a big deal but my my dad had accidentally barley scratched the surface of the surround of my sub and decided to put a bead of epoxy to cover it and I was kinda upset .. And also while removing my sub from the box my right hand had slipped and accidentally hit the dust cap .. Nothing was damaged because of the hard cap but will these effect my sub and should I worry about it or is it not a relaly big deal?

I'm finally good with money, and I'm looking to turn my brahma MKII motor into the first 18" brahma MKII I know of... and of course I've known you guys were the best people to ask, specifically scott has been referred to me by marshall, black00... email me back or here, [email protected] thanks a ton for taking your time, steve

Hey guys, can someone with knowledge I don't have give me a hand PLEASE! I'll be real grateful! I bought my 2 10" FI D2 Q's for this box for my 350Z which has a advertised inside dimensions that produce .70cuft per chamber. Scott's advertised cuft spec for these subs is .20 -.60cuft. So I'm about .10cuft over. First a couple of questions. (getting old sucks....memory shot! LOL!) #1. I think Scott said he wanted the .20 - .60cuft space for the box PRE sub installation???? So in other words don't use the sub displacement itself in the final cuft #. The box without the sub should be .20 -.60cuft. Does that sound right? #2. Obvisously I want the BEST possible performanc…

Im going to be starting my first build soon and i've decided to go with the Fi X12 but I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions on amps for this sub? I want to squeeze every bit of power out of this sub Thanks for any suggestions! Sub Specs SINGLE 2 | SINGLE 4 OHM Fs: 35.6 Hz | 35.8 Hz Re: 1.9 Ohms/coil | 2.9 Ohms/coil Qms: 5.58 | 5.55 Qes: .47 | .47 Qts: .44 | .44 Mms: 127.9g | 126.1g Cms: 1.6mm/N | 1.6mm/N Sd: 481cm^2 | 481cm^2 Vas: 50.7 l | 50.7 l Spl: 88.7dB 1W/1m | 88.8dB 1W/1m Bl: 10.8 N/A | 13.2 N/A Xmax: 18mm | 18mm Rms: 400W * | 400W * Sealed box: .6-1.1 cuft | .6-1.1 cuft Ported box: 1.6-2.2cuft | 1.6-2.2cuft Sub OD: 12.500” | 12.500” Cut ID: 11.125” |…