Fi Technical

I have 2 btl d2 will the mmats hd4000.5 work with those subs. I readed on this forum a person was useing a mmats amp and it kept going into protect mode

ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

i just ordered two fi btl 18s fully loaded like two days ago and have been researching all about them great subs is what ive been hearing, but im going to build my own ported box for them and have tryed using the t/s parameters listed on fi's website and i plug them in my bass box pro 6 and my winiSD and the programs basically end up saying that fi's t/s parameters are incorrect, because after ive typed in all listed parameters it says recommend internal size 5.25 cu. ft for two of the 18's i dont know whats wrong... and what do you guys think would be best box design and port design for 2 btl 18 fully loaded dual 2 ohms, 4 hifonics brz 1700.1D amps (amp per voice coil) (…

Just was wondering, how much rms do you guys think a new FIBL 15 daily with no upgrades could take?

lately i been noticing a popping sound coming out of my BTL. I got it hooked up to two hifonixs bxi1606. is this normal?? have any of you guys with btls heard this before??

Does this look good?

Just lookin for some input on an amp that will power a fully loaded 12in fi bl at 1 ohm. My sub will be here this week so i want to order my amp soon. Any input will help. Please state the amp/amps you reccomend and why.

ok so ive had my sub for less than a month and today i heard strange pop. so i went to take a look and it just sound like a screw was loose. so i took the sub out and it wasn't that. Then i played the sub out of the box and when i turned the volume to about 30/62 it started making the same noise. it sounds like its coming from the center of the sub. so my question is what could it be.

So my 1st sp4, caught on fire in my trunk, i was told it was user error (even tho i believe it wasnt) - as i own a Tripple stack btl, hdc 4, Mtx 9500, DD 9500, hdc 3 10s, xfl 12s, and none of them have caught on fire.. but now this Sp4, the damn lead came loose from the coil i guess? i took a pic of it. Im sure this will be ruled as user error (even though i more then likely will not agree with it) however, you guys are the experts so i was wondering if you could let me know what may have caused this.. Everything was perfect, 1 coil just stopped working..

What are some specs on the ufo style btl 18"? As i cant ind them on the fi site. It was built in 2009,fully loaded dual 1 ohm,got it from a guy that never used it,still in the crate..my main question is what is the xmax on this style btl and are these still in production?? Any input is greatly appreciated..thanks!!

Scott / Anyone I had emailed Scott about this but I'll post here. Basically my questions is as below. I would like to seek help on my Q15 enclosure. I had builded a 3.65 cu.ft @ 34hz for the Q15. My specs and measurement as follows: Net Volume: 3.65 cubic feet Tuning Frequency: 34 Hz Port Width: 5.25 inches Port Area: 86.625 Square Inches Port Length: 47.5 inches External Dimensions: 34 wide x 18 tall x 22.75 deep Now, after installing and basically setting the amp crossover, subsonic filter and gains I found that the bass was muddy at times and lacked the lows. So I checked my amp setting even using scope just to make sure it does not clipped or distort. After listening…

I just picked up two BTL 18's, dual 2's, fully loaded, and will be running them off of two modded Memphis Mojo MC-2000d amplifiers (1 on each driver at 1 ohm), approx. 3000 watts each. In my vehicle, which is a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, I don't have a whole lot of useable space to work with and still maintain practicality, so the enclosure is going to be a bit tight for specs. I will run the subs inverted to try to save as much airspace as I can, but I only have a total of 11.2 cubes to work with, before port displacement. I will be able to run 4.7 cubes per driver after displacement, while running more than sufficient power to the drivers, at 3000 watts per. Fi recommends…

Just got my 18" Q w/BP in the mail yesterday. (thx scott). Next week is spring break and I need a box design for the back of a 97 blazer. I have about 8 cubes to work with. Accordman from steavemeadeforums told me to go 6.3 ft^3 and 90 in^3 of port, which results in a 32-33 hz tuning. I have never worked with 18's before, and I've heard certain boxes for 18" Q's can really restrict their output. I only have about 1000 watts RMS from a bxi1206d to work with for now, but plan on upgrading to 1400watts rms. My goal is to make a well balanced box. Not pure SPL or superlow tuning for SQ. I just want to get the most, good sounding output from the sub. And i'm a broke a…

Guys I want to add a 4th SP4 to my current setup and was wondering if I have enough space in the cargo area of my SUV to do it. I have the following demensions...46W x 44D x 25H.....And how much port area to get them really going with about 16k of power?

just got my 12 bl hooked up today... its killer on the lows like it hurts your ears but when it hits the highs you can barely hear them. maybe it will get better when it breaks in im not sure... just wondering if this is supposed to happen or not

Can I get a recone for 2 jl 12 w6's? My boy just smoked them and gave them to me. The only specs that I could find was, 300 watts rms, 2.5 inch coil, 11.1 xmax, and they are dual 6 ohm coils. And the dust cap comes with the recone? And what would be the new spes with the recone?

So while waiting for my sub to arrive I've been messing around in sketchup, which I just learned to use. This is only my second design but I think it's pretty good. Let me know what you guys think. Only thing I'm weary about is how the sub will be right in front of where the port begins. Is this a problem? Maybe I can go narrower on the port and make it longer... Edit: Forgot to mention it's for a Fi Q 12". Also not sure of the port displacement. 3.43 would probably make more sense for a sealed enclosure...how do I take into account the port? 3.43 cu. ft. @ 31 Hz

i am toying with the idea of either a ported 10Q or a sealed 12Q. overall i want SQ, but want it to get loud. i listen to mostly rock music and really enjoy a good jamming bass line. i am a sales rep so i spend alot of time on the road and due to needing the space for samples i don't want a box much bigger than 1.5 cubes ( MAX ). my question is this- i already have the AX600DE-- is it enough to drive a 12Q sealed? i know that at 1 ohm it will drive 600W ( on paper ). the amp is extremely efficient, but will it really drive either Q? this is more of a question for Scott or someone with experience with Fi. i am not a newbie by any means- i am just looking for s…

I am thinking of using a single IB318 IB in my trunk. My trunk space is 14.2^3ft. The vas of the driver is 381l which is nearly the same volume as my trunk. Is the IB318 too big for my trunk to run IB? I have read that the overall volume of the trunk space should be three times the vas of the driver(s) in an IB setup.

I have two Fi Q 15's and would like to know whether to go sealed or ported? I love tight bass and also love the sound of a ported enclosure. I have the space for the ported enclosre (6.2 cu.ft)and i also have the space for the sealed enclouse. I love both sealed and ported enclosures. But which encloser would be the best for good sound quality and will also get loud. Any input is welcome. thanks

Ordered an SP4 15. I'm designing my box and would like some opinions on lower tuning, 25-28ish hertz.I'll be running a crescendo bc3500. I know the "norm" is to have port tunng a bit higher, and my current sub is tuned to 32 (SSD 15) I was hoping to get some thoughts

Just drew this up on sketch up, 5 cubic feet tuned to 32 Hz with port dimensions 5 Wide x 16 High x 34 Long... Wondering what you guys think!

Before I explain my question I want to say I know WinISD is not going to accurately represent the output in a car, I am just using it to get a general idea of the frequency response shape of the box itself. I am trying to help a friend decide on what subs to get for his new setup. I am strongly pushing a pair Fi 12's and he asked me to design a box for him. With most drivers I put into WinISD a get reasonable looking response curves when putting in the recommended enclosure specs, and then I go on and alter designs from that point. With a pair of Fi Q 12's I started with a 4.2 cubic foot box tuned to 32Hz and this is the shape of the response I got... I suspect it is be…

Hey guys, can someone with knowledge I don't have give me a hand PLEASE! I'll be real grateful! I bought my 2 10" FI D2 Q's for this box for my 350Z which has a advertised inside dimensions that produce .70cuft per chamber. Scott's advertised cuft spec for these subs is .20 -.60cuft. So I'm about .10cuft over. First a couple of questions. (getting old sucks....memory shot! LOL!) #1. I think Scott said he wanted the .20 - .60cuft space for the box PRE sub installation???? So in other words don't use the sub displacement itself in the final cuft #. The box without the sub should be .20 -.60cuft. Does that sound right? #2. Obvisously I want the BEST possible performanc…

I'm sure it's probably not a big deal but my my dad had accidentally barley scratched the surface of the surround of my sub and decided to put a bead of epoxy to cover it and I was kinda upset .. And also while removing my sub from the box my right hand had slipped and accidentally hit the dust cap .. Nothing was damaged because of the hard cap but will these effect my sub and should I worry about it or is it not a relaly big deal?