Subwoofers / Speakers

Looks like I desoldered a tinsel lead from my BTL...on accident. It looks like it's too short...I resoldered it already but I can't turn it up loud or I get a scraping from (guessing) the lead being too short causing the cone/coil to rock. Can I just desolder the lead from the landing, resolder a piece of 12ga stranded wire to the landing and crimp the lead to that? Or should I order 5 meters of tinsel from an online vendor and try to desolder the lead from a difficult spot near the cone and try to do it "right"? Thoughts? Thanks.

If the human ear is unable to detect the direction ot true mid bass (below 250 hz), why not run a single 8" woofer in the rear deck of my challenger to compliment the 6 1/2' component set up front and 12" sub in the trunk? I bought a 5 channel Boston GTA amp super cheap and could car less about rear fill, but would like better mid bass response. Please tell me why I'm crazy. p.s.There is no way in hell my wife would ever let me chop up the doors to put a pair of 8"s there, and I am not running active.

Is it possible to tune a box low enough to protect the sub from the damaging fqs? My amp is an older JBL 1200.1 with no built in SSF. I was looking at either an icon 10 or 12. Main problem is I listen to mostly deep bass rap and I don't want to hurt the sub.

I know you guys will recommend going full size... I have an older Toyota Landcruiser FJ60 and want some good bass without sacrificing storage/dog toting ability. I am looking at one or two enclosures in the rear quarter panels (out of sight and paw proof). I was thinking 10" or 12" subs (likely two - one ea side). Powered by a single Alpine PDX-1.600 The JL 13.5" won't fit. Pioneer 1201's should, otherwise not sure what you guys would recommend getting. total depth (not counting what hte enclosure will use up is about 5.5". Thanks for helping me find something!

I'm building a 99 2dr Tahoe with 4 DC level 6 18's with 20k watts going to them, and I need some suggestions on the mids and highs. I have an Eclipse 7200 mkII head unit and an Audision bit one laying around that I will be using. I lalso have a DD C2 and an Alpine pdx 150.4 that are not being used that i can use or I might just buy new amps. I need a front stage that will keep up with the bass and not sound horrible. Thanks

Well, This Might Determine The Choice For My Dad's Truck. If Anyone Can Inform Me If The AA Havoc Has The Sandwiched Tinsel Leads Also, That'd Be Great.

Hi. I havn't been on here in a while. I just gt my system all hooked up and everything sounds good. I just had one more question; What kind of speakser would fit my front door speakers for a 2001 Pontiac Grand AM GT? I would like Kicker front speakers with built in tweeters, but I am not sure as to what size would fit my car. If someone could help, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

In general what would be louder between 2 fully loaded 18" Fi BL's, 1 18" fully loaded BTL N3, or 1 18" AA Smd woofer. Will be powered to Hifonics HFI3000d. Already got the amp. If I get 2 subs the box will be 13cuft after displacements double baffled and braced and tuned to 32hz. or with a 1 sub setup it will be 7.5cuft after displacements double baffled and braced and tuned to 32hz. I mainly care about LOUDNESS (No SQ) such as db reads etc. at least 149-152db. Setup will be going into 1996 Chevy Tahoe. Looking for a good hard hitting daily driver. Dont wanna spend more than 850 for subwoofers. "Hope This Helps" P.S. Im also interested in DC Lvl 5's and RD Audio Heavywe…

So the time has come to purchase a new subwoofer. I have been using a Rockford P3 for the last couple months and loved it but decided it was about time to move up in the world of the bassheads. I have a really hard time deciding on the simplest of things and thats why im posting here to try and get help on deciding. i by no means mean this to be a "VS" thread. just need a push in the "right" direction. so the 3 subs im tryin to decide on are: -Ascendant Audio Mayhem 15 -Fi Audio SP4 15 -DC Audio level 4 15 ill be running it on one of the Hifonics mt. olympus series amps (the one that best fits the particular subs RMS rating, of course) the sub will be put in a custom…

lol have yall missed me any? (i know, you havent) anyways, im getting closer to finishing my setup in the mini...i promise ill listen this time, i just wanna hear your suggestions on crossovers for my tweets. the amp will be a MTX TA7402. 300w x 2 @ 1 ohm. will be 16 tweeters, 8 per channel, in parallel, so each channel will be running 8 tweets @ 1 ohm, (300/8 = roughly 38w per tweet) this amp has a pretty nice HPF built in from what it looks like too. so, instead of running one of those 3.3uF caps for a "crossover" what do you suggest? i know i should keep the slope high, around like 36dB or something right (so they dont blow?) what should i cross them at though, and w…

My original thread was edited for unauthorized sales on an open forum Funny since I am not a vendor for any audio company. Anyways, Crescendo has a new lineup of PA mids. Should be baddass. Again I do not sell these. I am posting a new product for y'all to check out

Now days the new Fi Q's are rated for 1500 RMS stock, 1700-1900 RMS with cooling while the AA Havoc is rated for 1250. In searching older reviews and comparisons I have read that for the most part the Havoc plays better down low but I don't know if it will handle the 1800-1900 watts RMS daily the Crescendo BC3500D will be giving it. I would like for the enclosure to be 5.0 net cubes tuned to a medium of 31 Hz either way and I prefer lower end deep and ground-pounding bass in the 28-36hz range more than anything. I want to flex my car to bitts and pieces and "feel" the music more than merely hear it. I want to violently shake everything and make it feel as though my car is…

What would you rather do? 6 cheapish 12's in a sealed box or 1 awesome 18 in a decently big ported box? Both would be on the same power (2500 rms) But 6 12's has alot more cone area but a sealed box. 18 has less cone area but a ported box 18 would be a bit cheaper and better quality. But 6 12's have more cone area lol. So what do you guys think? If you have any other suggestions, I have up to 8 cubic feet before displacements. Have 2500 rms. Thinking bout running the Zcon or something similar for the 18. The 12's would be infinitys

Hello all. Need some assistance. I have a 2011 Lexus GX 460 with Mark Levinson sound system. The system sounds great except for the sub.I have pulled off the back panel and reveled that the factory was a 10" sub. I currently own a Alpine PDX 600.1 I will put that behind the panel and will replace the sub run a LOC. I checked the factory sub and it was 8 ohm surprisingly but know if I replace and wire up a replacement sub it will not give me what I am looking for. I previously had my PDX 600.1 running a JL Audio 10-3v3 it does not fit its around 6" mount depth. That sub in a small sealed box rocked and am looking for something similar in the factory location. I migh…

Not looking for anything spectacular, just something decently loud with decent sq that gets low for around 150. This will be going in a suburban so there is plenty of room. I was thinking about 1 15" RE srx? Or maybe even a 18" dayton classic? Just looking for some cheap bass, nothing extravagant.

im thinking about getting some ppi subs i have read that they have pretty good SQ for there price and i was just wondering if anyone knows if this is true? ive tried looking on youtube and other places but not alot of people have them or atleast they dont put them on the internet but if anyone knows anything about these subs please hit me up i would like to know more about them.. thanks

Just another fail in the recent line of events affecting my car... Immediately realized I'd blown one woofer the other night when it stopped playing and the car filled up with a sickening burning scent, pulled the box out today only to discover not only did I have one crunchy woofer, but other one was not far behind! These woofers have more than fulfilled my expectations and have had a long healthy life of two years, no BP Option, run at 100W over spec. Kudos to Fi for building such solid woofers. So now, I sit bassless... thinking about my next project!! I love the output these guys had, but I also missed my trunk space... many times a spare tire would've come in handy! …

Hi, I tried to search for the answer to this question, but couldn't really find what I needed. I have a Zapco C2K 9.0 2 Ohm version. 2 ch amp. I want to run 1 BTL 18' sub. so my question is should I get the dual 1 Ohm and run each coil to a separate channel , or dual 1 ohm coils in series to 2 ohm amp bridged as 1 channel, also what would be the pluses, minuses of running 2 1000w amps to the same sub on different coils? which will work better? sorry for the noob question. and thanks

I'm trying to make a descision between these 2 subs. I plan on running only 1, off of 1500 watts rms. I can make any electrical upgrades that are necessary. I drive a Dodge Ram 1500 Quad-Cab, so space is somewhat of an issue. I currently have a box with 2 12's taking up 2 of my back seats, and would like to try and free up some more space. I have heard that the Sundowns do well in smaller enclosures. My main goal is to hit lows, get loud, and sound smooth. I listen to rap/hip hop and Chopped and Screwed music. Any personal experience with either of these subs is appreciated.

What would be louder an sa12 in a tline or a sa 15 in a lport? Amp suggestions?

A 10" gcon in a 2.5 cuft ported box tuned to 33hz with 400 watts @ 4 ohms.

I had 6x 8v batterys i aquired in a trade, and a Friend of mine Alan needed them, So we worked a Trade, i needed a Sub for my Niece and did not want her to have generic Junk, ( we live in Louisiana ) it's a long storie but Alan Hall built this sub from: a Kove Audio Armageddon Motor / DD 9512 Basket / Re Soft parts i cant have MY Niece running around town with common JL/RF/Kicker crapp we build the boxx tomarrow... now too find an Amp

Would a DD 9518 on a RF T15001-bd be ok as a daily driver? Don't care much about SQ, just wondering if this sub can take hours of daily pounding. And also, off topic but is port area separate from internal box volume?