Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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I built a sub box as big as i could to hold two 18's in my acura cl.i run a 1200w hifonics brutus and it slams.But the speakers supostu have 6cft of air .the box only has 6.4 total inside air space. Is there any way to make the subs work easyer.By adding polyfill ,porting,or any other methed.i dont want to build a real intriqet box considering my trunk only holds about 13cft and my box should have 12cft.Any help would be appreciated.
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so im thinkin about getting a single btl 18 or bl or even a q. i heard of people having to run seperate batteries and new alternators and running more wires. will this really be neccasary? my truck is just wired for a amp and all that right now
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I'm looking for one 18 i can give 2500w. I wanted one of the new BTL's but I messaged Fi and they told me they were in the process of moving and so production is a little slow right now. Any suggestions on something comparable? I currently have DC Lv.4 12's (love them) running off 2 Kicker SX1250.1's. And my price limit is about 600. Thanks.
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I recently just blew my 15n2 Btl fully loaded. I am looking to recone it and am interested in upgrading it to an n3. Is this possible or just recone it with the n2? Thanks andrew
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I have seen on a few places here that people are noting the dif between using push teminals and a piece of 8AWG wire soldered to the tinsel leads and the ensuing point of both side of the discussion is "Well, that adds resistance" I will be posting a vid of my findings, seeing as how all talk is speculative, mine included. Testing one piece of 8AWG on a 1ohm coil - .01ohms Testing one piece of 8AWG by itself - .01ohms Testing one - Push Terminal - .02ohms Testing one + Push Terminal - .02ohms Testing one other - Push Terminal - .02ohms Further testing - I left the frame for an American Bass XFL12 D4(frame only) in the freezer for a…
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I asked this same question on CA.com and jmac was the only person who helped me out. http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94643 that's the link to the page I asked the question at. Scroll to the bottom where I asked about EBP and QTS because I still don't know which to look at. You'll understand once you read the question, thanks.
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I will be getting my ssa icon 15's reconed soon(hopfully)and thought I would give them a few personal touches. The question I have is. Should I polish the front of the spokes??(already tried one.. see pic) or go all black? thanks in advance, btw: before anyone asks,Yes.. I have posted this on another forum already.
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what would the suggestion be for 2 type r 12's on a sundown sae-1000d for LSQ? i have them in a 4.5 cube box tuned to 32hz and i dont like it at all. my box is subs and port up in a 05 impreza wagon. any ideas would be great.
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Hey guys, I'm looking into getting my dad some new speakers for his vette. I'd like to get him something that has good SQ, around in the 2-300 dollar range. It would still be ran off of the stock head unit. I think its got 5 1/4" in the door with a tweeter in the top of the door panel. I would probably also look into putting some deadener in the doors like second skin or something. Whats your alls suggestions?
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Been out of car audio for some time... and now, with my new car... I am addicted again I was able to pick up a set of Boston Z6 comps for dirt cheap (yea Craigslist!). And have them hooked up to an old MTX amp, don't even remember the model, that I had laying around. Since these are 3ohm and I have them bridged to the MTX 4chan... the MTX doesn't like it. I don't think I ever had an amp get that hot. So I am looking for amp recommendation to power these hungry things. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Can a DC Lendl 3 15" take 900 rms daily with no problem?
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here are some pics of the db's i got beside my re 6.5. they look tiny here are my cdt cl-6x's...they're even bigger than the polks! sad, i never got to here the polks in the car:( they're 6.5's that measure not quite 6.25".
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Well, they are shipping and I do have mine. It sounds great, the output is less than I am used to, but still more than I need. Listening to songs the biggest difference I notice is how pointed and short some of the notes actually are compared to how long they seemed on my BMs. They sound much closer to my B&Ws in my room, just pin pricks of sound where it should be with no hangover. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a true SQ sub. Now the caveats: If you are looking for a loud sub that can take more than 1000 watts this is not the sub for you. This is designed specifically for a 1 cubic foot sealed box, that is it. They are also designed to only take 1000 w…
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Friend is looking to buy a sub to put in the back of his Chevy Tracker, with a buget of $100. His goals are strictly output. He wants it loud... He has no idea what SQ is, so that's not an issue. He had 4 12" Wal-Mart Duals at one point and swore they were the best sounding things on the market. He listens to nothing but rap. I will be building the box, tuned to ~33hz for his musical taste. I'm not exactly sure the max volume I can get away with back there, but I know it's not much. I'm guessing a 12 will be the biggest we can go and still remain in optimal specs. He has a 600 watt amp to push whatever he buys @ 2 ohms, or 4 ohms bridged. What are suggestions as to what …
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hey me and my friend just instaled a system for a friend and he gave us a infinity perfict 10 for doing the just but it is dual voice coil and one of the tensal leads are riped out of the sup how can we fix this do we have to take the dust cap off
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I noticed that the BL differs between the two options on Fi's website. Do they perform the same? I see that they are almost exact in sensitivity. How does this work if the motors are different strengths (different BL's)??
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I have a few questions about how to obtain the sound I like from the equipment I have: -Avic D3 head unit -PRS 720's speakers running passive off a JL 300/4 -RL-p12 w/ 1.35 cu ft sealed powered by a JBL 1200.1 ...and I have an 06 Silverado ext cab I have been running this set up for about a year now and I enjoy it but I feel like I could get more from it. My complaints: The factory Bose front and rear speakers really filled the truck with sound. Now with the Pioneers (only having front speakers), the truck doesn't sound as full, if that makes sense. I mean that I can hear the music coming straight from the speaker as if it were a direct line to my ear rather than before…
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Dodge charger trunk, here are the options, Im also open to anything somebody else could recomend. 1 dual 12 box about 4ft cubed, or 2 12 inch boxes about 2 - 2.5 cubes each ported. Subwoofers im interested in, GCON, or SA12. (or a subwoofer not much more than $200 each) Amp, a 1500rms or 1200 rms. I listen to mostly rap, heavy bass songs, and some dubstep. What should I tune my port(s) to? I was thinking 32hz What is my best option here? *My original idea was 2 seperate 2 cubic foot, 32hz boxes pushing 1200rms into 2 SA12s.*
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I bought a 2 12" TC-3000 last year, the DVC version with lower BL. I went to a shop and got it installed, but now I want to try and redesign my system, by building a new box and possibly purchasing some new amps, but I don't know what the T/S parameters are[DVC's should be different than QVC], the wiring diagrams[ohm load] or power ratings. I've checked the old TC website, but they only provide information for the QVC version. I've also tried calling them, no luck.. Are there any tools I could use to figure this out or is there anyone that might have all this information.
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Well guy's I would like some opinions on my next set of subs. I tend to lean towards sq but I still want some subs they can get loud and go low and rumble with the best of them. I would like to use the same enclosure that I had with my 2 12" ID MAX's, it is a sealed enclosure with a common chamber and 1.3^3 ft. of airspace per sub before displacement. I have the following two amps available to me; Ampman Revo 1500.1 and a Audio Art 100HC. I'll be using one and selling the other, opinions and reasons for them would be appreciated. If it matters at all it will be going into the trunk of my 2004 nissan maxima. The other components of my system are: Alpine CDA-9835 JL 300/2 A…
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well my original plan was to get two FI BL 15's, and i have ordered one and i am using it now and i really like it but my girlfriend wanted a sub just like mine so i have to order two more subs and due to the fact that im going to have an 8 cube box i think im going to go with two FI BTL N2 15's instead, running on a crescendo bc5500 instead of the bc3500 and im going to do the big three with a 270 singer alternator with an overdrive pulley then an xs d3400 under the hood and i was going to have a single d3100 in the back but im guessing ill have to add a second one, and the box is going to be tuned at 33 hertz also. gonna make the little colorado FLEX! Any comments or co…
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I recently wanted to have a under the seat build for my truck, but now I've come up with the decision to go a little bit bigger with the enclosure. I don't want to take my seats completely out. my plan is to flip my seats up and build a box that's I can take out if I needed to use my rear seat. 15' s are out the question cause the enclosure will be to large to move around, so my options are multiple 10' s or 12' s. I have my saz-3500 but I plan on selling it and get a saz-4500 or two crescendo bc2000's I want to keep the price of the subs under $1000. I listen to 90% rap and I will not be competing. the source I have to work with is W-50 D-16 H-17.5
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My friend has a 15'' audiobahn, here is the link: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13516 Right now he has it in a sealed box but i really feel it would sound better, or at least alot smoother in a ported box. I havent made a ported box yet, but im ready to try. But my question is, size and tuning for this sub. I looked all over for manufacture recomendation for atleast size recs for a ported enclosure but could not find anything. I was thinking maybe a tuning to 32hz or so, but not really sure. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike B.
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