Subwoofers / Speakers

This sub was tested in my 05 four runner. DbDrag style seald on the dash. This is only the 3rd time testing in this vehicle, but it works well because as an suv it has a large cargo area and doesnt have some rediculous peak like my old crx had. I ran into some heat issues throughout the day and this is only 2/3s of what I planned to test. Look for frequency plots in a few days. SPL results From the beginning of throwing the sub in the box i realized I had a decent spl sub on my hands. I started testing with very minimal power, 10.4 watts , just to show the effeciency of this sub and the fact that you do not need to drop 2000 watts on a driver for it to be loud. Afte…

Hey guys i was just wondering what you guys thought of the I.D.MAX-D4 or the I.D.MAX-CRD4? they seem like they are pretty good subs but im not really sure how they would be. I really like I.D., i have some 6.5 components up front and they are amazing. i have them running off of a sax 125.2. But i dont really know anything about their subs. Im in the market to upgrade my Sub. I have a dual 4 12" Alpine type-r running off a Saz 1000d. I really like the Sundown subs, and SSA subs, but want to get some opinions on the I.D. subs if anyone has any experience with them.

I'm putting 1 12" in a 1.60 cu ft. box precision port tuned to 35hz on an audiopipe 1500.Need help deciding what sub to get.

I've made a few threads and I can't get a straight answer. WHICH ONE SA 12s 350 shipped VVS 12s 320 shipped LI 12s 370 shipped What im hearing is they're all equal. Im thinking the vvx since they're the cheapest. The amp will be a sundwowm 1200d. Im looking for heavy lows that shake the whole car. Sq doesn't really matter to me. More of an spl sound. Straight answers please! Thank you!

I realize that SSA are built at the FI buildhouse, but what are the differences between these two subwoofers? The only differences I notice in a SP4 and Evil are the magnets which one is ufo style and one is the traditional stack style, then the SP4 has sandwhiched leads in the spiders. The specs are almost identical, a small change in the T/S parameters. Is the Evil basically the fully loaded SP4 with an extra 200 dollars added on top? Nothing agianst SSA or Fi either way, I just am interested in what makes the evil better to which that 200$ comes from.

I have to decided to just go with a front stage in my car instead of a set of components for the front and the rear. I am thinking of a 3 way because I have my subs crossed at 60 Hz and want a little more midbass. I am going for an SQ setup and listen to everything, but I generally like heavier midbass, warm midrange, and softer highs. I have a 2004 Tahoe with an Alpine IVA-W505 up front with a Audiocontrol DQXS for when I can run active. I have eDead 120 and SS Damplifier Pro for damping and the subs are 4 ED 13Av.2s ported, tuned to 32 Hz, on an USAmps Ax3200de. The electrical is a 300 Amp Alt., 0 AWG, RF 10 Farad Cap, and 4 Deka Intimidators. I plan on using a Zap…

I cooked the voice coil in one of my Aura 10 inch midbass drivers So now I need to replace them with something more heavy duty. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/aurasound/NS10-513-4A.pdf I know the t/s parameters should tell me which driver should be a good candidate but don't understand all of them to the fullest yet, SO this is where I am asking for help. The Drivers will be mounted in my doors IB and will be getting 300 watts RMS. They will be bandpassed 50hz to 400hz, give or take whatever it takes to blend them. Based on my installation I ASSUME that I need a driver with a total Q value of around .35? I ASSUME that because I burnt the voice coil in the Aura I s…

ok ladies and gents...Nick and his dad dropped the car off last night at my place, and i'm just now getting around to getting all of the materials rounded up for everything that i need. I'll be posting pics later of the tear down of the car and the current install that is in it and the prep work and hopefully we'll have a fiberglass tub for the bottom part of the enclosure and the start of the top done tonight. Pics to come...so don't do the this thread is worthless without pics...gimme a few hours and ill have some up! subscribe...and check the progress!

Hey friends, just wanted to share my most recent build with you all, my first Solo X 15. This was a challenging sub to build, but a lot of fun. Big thanks goes out to David, Rusty, and everyone who had a hand in helping make this happen (too many to remember). A lot of people stepped up and helped out, but none more than the man himself, David Moore@PSi. He and Rusty answered every question I could come up with, and without them both, this would not have happened, period. So thanks guys, it really means a lot! So I started with an idea to build a Solo X 15. Little did I know it had already been done, multiple times by PSi. (Check it out) So, I began talking to Da…

Just looking for an opinion here. I have not used either, but I have a rep that is trying to sell me a W7 for 400 and I've been looking at the XCON, but of course the rep is saying that the W7 is by far better than the XCON. He's stated that he has been a JL rep for the last 7 years and he has yet to hear a sub sound as clean and heart pounding as the W7. With no preference towards spl or sq, what do you guys think the better buy would be, or just give me something for arguments sake. He says that the W7 is a better built product and the research invested into the W7 makes it the better choice. I know some of what he says is true, and I'm getting dealer cost here for the …

I came up with this the other day and posted it on SMD, I figured I should post it here too. Hopefully someone will find it useful. I'm sure most people here have come across the "12-16 sq in of port area per cube" guideline for slot ports and the "9-12 sq in per cube" for aeros. The problem with both of these is they only consider box volume. Both input power and tuning frequency, along with box volume, have a great effect on how much port area you need. This is why I've been recommending to people to NOT use those rules of thumb. Online you can find several websites (such as carstereo.com) that have port area calculators using the formulas developed by Dickaso…

Anyone ever run any PSI subs? If so what did you think? I've heard many many subs but never a PSI.

Anyone know where I can purchase a re-coil kit for JL12W6 D2 dual 2 ohms voice coil? JL audio doesn't offer any re-coil kit. Also, is it ok if I use any other brands of recoil kit such as, Fi and any other brands that has the same coil resistance and size? Thanks

which one did he send? This is a big bastard of a woofer.... build quality is top notch... shame I can't get a good pic of the coil... yet.. this should be a hard woofer to kill.... Loyd L.

Interested in getting 2 15"s either a xcon or level 4xl. the enclosure will be around 7 cu.ft @ 30-33hz powered by saz-3000d unsure which to get

Hello all. I wanted to start this thread out of pure curiosity. I have been in the audio industry as an enthusiest and a proffessional for about a decade. In that time I have played around with lots of different brands of subs. It seems in recent years manufacturers have been developing what they market as "superwoofers". The subs are getting huge and the prices sure have followed suit. In my quest for more knowledge I have found my way here to the SSA forum. It seems that there are a lot of not-so-mainstream subs that are quite popular. My first experience with a high-output sub that wasn't available in every stereo shop across the nation was an Audiomobile Mass2012. Aft…

Hello Everyone, Just dropping in to tell you that we found a basket/frame that will work nicely for the Delta midrange drivers however we are still lacking a basket for the omegas. I'm not going to set any kind of release date considering how unpredictable this sort of thing has turned out to be. Once we have a production version of the prototype it should be approximately 1-1.5 months before production can start full swing if the lead times we have been dealing with are any indication. The basket for the delta is stamped and allows 14mm of movement before the spider runs into the base of the frame with a flat spider. We could use a spacer and get the needed excursion f…

Alright guys new one for you, My stupid city is now getting ready to pass a new law which states that if your sound system is too loud in your car, the police IMPOUND your car. Am I losing it or is this not the most Freaking DUMB THING you've ever heard in your life. If a cop can hear your music from over 25 feet, they fine you 650 dollars, and they impound your car. So much for getting a new sound system in my car. SARASOTA, FLORIDA I HATE YOU. any thoughts would be appreciated.

thats right fellas tomorrow night my build will be completely ready to TL a drop in test with Fi and DD specs are as follows car electrical 220amp mechman alt 3 optima batts few runs of 0 ga big 3 (ofcourse) car box 2.7cubes tuned to 60hz with 76^2 port port and sub firing into the cabin car amp Sundown 3500 Car Subwoofers Fi BTL UFO D1 DD 9515H D2 to make the test as fair as possible, voltage and charge times will be alotted between each run BTL will be run at .5 OHM in same box 9515 will be run at 1ohm in same box not going for a single style, like outlaw or anything. just the highest score we can get for each. i really hope the btls wins this shit, because its honest…

has anyone here used this sub before? Reason im asking is there is one here locally on CL. Price is $250. Seems like a healthy sub. I recently installed a 15" Fi Q in my s10 and im not happy what so ever with it. lol. Clean sounding sub, but not what im looking for. Plus the box is bigger than i really want. I want some pressure in this truck. All i know is what I read on treo's website which makes me believe this will be a better choice than the Q im running now. Looking for anyone with hands on experience or atleast heard one before. This sub being a 12" will hopefully let me build a little smaller box than I have now. Probably power it with a audiopipe 1500 for now.

Was going for a setup with 4 18" tc 5200's but getting the last two woofers fell through so now i'm restarting. I have about 2 grand to put into subs, and a soundigital 8k on tap for power. i can get a ported box back there between 10-14 cubes depending on subs. I'm mainly looking to play low and loud, from 25-35hz and sound really nice daily for music. here's a list that i've come up with so far 6 12" dc level 4's 4 15" zcons 4 15" xcons/ 4 15" dc xl's 4 15" fi n2's 2 18" level 5's 2 18" level 6's (if i can get them) 2 18" tc 5400's 2 18" tc 5200's 2 18" wardens 2 18" smd's any input at all is appreciated. I haven't personally heard many of these subs, so would like some…

ummmmmmm ya here ya go. For earth shattering bass you can't beat this custom made 60-inch subwoofer which has the ability to produce SPL levels above 180 dB. This monster has ouput displacement comparable to 160+ ten-inch woofers! More after the jump. "The motor is capable of producing 6,000+ pounds of linear force, which is necessary when considering the very large surface area and displacement volume required to produce high SPL levels."

im looking for loud, clean, hard hitting bass. listen to rap/ hip hop and got up to 3cf to work with. im using an mtx 1501d (1500watts @ 1ohm). not sure if these three are on the same level, but from searching on the site seems like these might be what im looking for, now i just need to choose whats best. thinking about doing 2 10s ported or 1 12 ported, possibly a 15 but dont want to add too much weight. figure maybe 2 10 bl's or icons ported or 1 12 dd ported. which of the three would be loudest? any other subs better than these? what would you guys recommend in the space i have available?

Whats up Gents! It's been a while but I've been having fun with my lil Monsta's For your viewing pleasure Best I've seen so far is 151.5 @ 39hz!

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Video of the 1 in the jimmy! 4 in wills whip!!!!!!!!!