Subwoofers / Speakers

hey i have a question i have a btl 12" wit only the cooling option and i'm wondering if i get a recone kit for it can i get the hi xmax coil of did i have to choose that to begin with

hey. im buying 2 Kickedr L7's (the all black ones. i think 2009...? idk) after school today. and im getting a great deal. ($200 for both) he said they were only used for 2 weeks. but u never kno. he still has the boxes. i dont have an amp to test them. but when i asked him if it was ok if i brought one to test them...he said it was fine. so im assuming hes not BSing me. i think $200 is a great deal. what do you guys think? also, i will either be getting a kicker 750.1 and use one sub. or a 1500.1 and use both. i dont have the money to updrage my alternator...or get an extra batt, any opinions on that? its going into a 1994 Toyo…

My current system is (2) 15" AA SMD (2) SAZ-3500D (4) 7" AA Carbon Fiber (1) SAX 4.100D (4) XS Power D3100 (1) DC Power 320Amp Alt. The power range in the tweeters i'm lookin in is roughly 80-150rms. I am looking into Seas right now, as i was recommended to them by a few people and i've heard Marks and they sound great, but last time i checked.. Marks were sold out. FML. I am considering Super Tweeters also though, because they will get stupid loud. My budget is 100-200 total for tweeters. What i'm looking for is tweeters that will get really loud, so it will have a standing chance with my sub stage. I recently had (2) complete Alpine Type R component sets, REALLY loud b…

Like it says...any thoughts on which is better? I can get either set for the same price for the 6.5" component set. This will be for my Jeep Cherokee system and whatever I get will see 100-150w RMS depending on the amp I get. I listen to pretty much everything but rap and country. I'll have two Sundown Audio SA-8's handling bass duty.

i have a set of bravox carbon fiber comps and a set of coaxials i was thinking bout grabbing another pair of coax's and putting them up front with my comps. i can mount midbass in door and tweeter on a pillar or in kickpod with coax or coax in the door and comp set in the kick panel. (best spot for tweeters? kick or high up on a pillar?) i was planning on running the front comps active but if i can't due to this setup i prob won't care since it'll be easier to do this and prob louder. my main reason for more speakers is i am guessing that i will not be able to hear music over the bass and i would like it somewhat close to balanced (2 18in XXX) i was wondering if it is a d…

From what the coil on db drive wd12 approaches? spiders, cone? What sizes ID, OD, WW at the coil? What recone can approach, if I alter sub in 18inch?

Hi, people. Here I'll be posting my build log of a box I am working on. This is going to be my first properly done box. First time using plywood, wood glue, clamps and any sort of design and calculations. Last one was done with particle board, silicone and screws. Let's talk about the box. It is going to be 1.74 cub ft for a 12" SA-12 , the used material is poplar plywood, kerfed port tuned to 32hz, flushed driver, painted port and around the driver in white, wrapped in carpet, bolt terminals. The design was done by Bromo and excellent is the least I can say about it. He did all I asked about the box in a pretty fast time considering it is not an easy job. He is the man!…

My girlfriend finally confessed she wants some bass in her ride. So I'm trying to figure out what I want to do as far as her sub. I'm looking for a decent 10".. nothing special. Rated around 300-800 rms. SPL or SQ don't outweigh each other here.. this is more or less just practice for me as far as my box building goes, and adding a little bass to her Saturn Ion. Preferably need a d2 so I can get a final 4 ohm load to bridge. I'll probably just be getting a cheap 2 ohm stable A/B amp to push it.. She doesn't care or have the ear to tell the difference in quality so it doesn't really matter. My budget is no more than ~100-120 after shipping for the sub. I'm open to all i…

Hey guys i was lookin for 1 pair of sub to put in a chev taho from these spec is these sub i good buy??? http://cgi.ebay.com/SKAR-AUDIO-VVX-12-DVC-4-OHM-12-600-WATT-RMS-SUBWOOFER-/170556777393?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item27b5f9e3b1

Just looking for opinion's here.. currently have a BTL 18" (gen 2) and im in the market for a 2nd. I have located one which has never seen power.. brand new basically. Guy wants $400 and since Fi isnt selling the gen 2 anymore and the neo's wont work with the gen 2's this might be a good choice.. this is where i got thrown in a loop.. ran across this ad on craigslist. http://stockton.craigslist.org/ele/2011526092.html some DC audio lvl4 18's.. 2 of em for the price that this guy wants to sell me 1 btl for.. i know nothing about DC audio. i know its a quality product. Im looking at both as a good deal.. buying the btl will give me 2 total which is what im trying to run.. o…

I was at a friends house the other day and noticed he had a pair of speakers laying around he wasnt using.. I asked him why and he said "idk how to hook them up.." So I took a look at them and saw they were kind of old, but also noticed that they were Polk Audio speakers.. I know polk of being a good brand, and they looked like some decent speakers to have around so I told him I'd give him 25$ for the pair and we made the deal. I got home to do some research on them and can't find any that match up to these... the closest thing I can find are the "Polk Monitor 4's".. They look a lot alike except the tweeter style is slightly different and the port location on mine is off …

Hey everyone, Just registered up for the forum today, seems to be all great people here, and that is why I’m coming to you guys for some help. To get straight to the point I will describe my situation. Vehicle: 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart This vehicle does have a fair size trunk, well for the size of the car. The only thing that is really keeping me back from doing what I want [2 12" Ported] is the trunk opening. As of now I have 2 Rockford Fosgate Punch P2's in a sealed 2ft^3 box. I have a 4ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 31.5Hz made for these woofers, which I used in a previous vehicle, but this box will not fit in the Ralliart. So first things first: I can not fit an…

Hey what's up I'm new here and I'm on here because I have been looking at these two sets of speakers for a few weeks now and I can't decide between the two. The first one is a pair of Focal 165A1s they look really nice and they sound great as far as I could tell in the local shop. I can get those for 300 from them. The other pair is a pair of Image Dynamics CTX 65cs I heard these briefly and they sounded ok and they are super loud I just can't decide if the difference is enough to warrant a 100 dollar price increase for for the Focals. Does anyone have any first hand experience with both of these sets. I'd have either set powered adequately with what ever amplifier I need…

So for the ones who read my previous thread, unfortunately, the guy sold the 2 MMATS and Im left with my single 12 pioneer. I been looking for some time already to replace my sub. I came to the conclusion that Im better off going with 2 12s rather than a single 15 since I will have more cone area. The three options that catch my attention are IB3, X and DCON. Yes, Im on a budget. And that is $300 shipped, no more than that. (as thats was what I was originally gonna spend on the MMATS subwoofers that I was offered). IB3, the problem is that 2 12s would come out $340 + enclosure price. Also, I think IB3s are for home use right? I could probably go for 1 15, the thing is tha…

Ok well I am going to be reconing my first sub in the next week or so (sundown nightshade v.1 stock coil with extra spider), I know I need to buy ca glue(from fix my speaker) but which ca glue do I need to buy? And I was just reading on ca.com about how to recone, it gave a step by step of how to recone the spider, first put the glue on the spider landing then apply the spider move it around a little to get a good contact then spray the activator on, but not too much because it will discolor and such. But my question is how do I glue the surround to the basket? It never said anything about the activator or anything. So do I just use the glue? Or do I repeat the steps for …

I have an 01 dodge ram extended cab and I am debating on wether I should wall it with 2 18 BTL's or do a 4th order blowthrough. im leaning more towards the blowthrough for the comfort level but im afraid to cut!!! plus i have heard a few 4th order blowthroughs but none in a cabin space as big as mine (only in minis). What do i do

i have been looking for a component set and i was considering going with something from cdt. I have never heard these with my own ears, but i have heard or read a few good things about them online a while back. Or if there is something better i should consider please let me know i was looking at the CL-61A-25 PRO here is a link to them http://www.woofersetc.com/p4596/CL61A25-PRO--CDT-Audio-Classic-65"-2Way-Component-Speakers.htm what do yall think, and what amp should i look into to power them?

So I was looking at a tahoe build log on here and saw this: I've also seen alot of setups where people run speakers in the center console area... Isn't this bad for imaging?

I've built a couple of hundred boxes all the way from 2 6w0s in a Ranger to 3 Shockers in a 200SX wall(12 10"s earlier in the same wall) and 8 12"s in my Eclipse I used to have, as well as the run of the run of the mill multiple 13W7s, JUGGS, 2 12"s and everyday beaters middle of the road subs, as well as helping db drag and MECA guys at any opportunity cause that's how I get down to always give a helping hand. Now that I finally got a job my next future woofers will be beasts and I know simple screws will shear and break. My problem is (and I have TRIED T nuts before with dissapointing results mounting them) I need you guys' help. If anyone can take a few pictures an…

This is my first install in a four door sedan. So sorry for the noob question I will be using a single 15 in a ported enclosure in my trunk. My question is, will I have a better/louder low end if I have my sub pointed towards the rear hatch or if it is pointed towards the rear seat? BTW there is about 10"-12" separating the enclosure and rear hatch. Thanks!

well i still havnt decided on what i want to get in my truck. i drive a 03 toyota tundra access cab and will be removing the back seat for the box. i plan on doing the big 3 and getting a kinetic battery to help the electrical. as far as music, i listen to everything so i want the sub to sound well and i want it to be loud. something that can play all ranges of bass and be loud, not only certain spots. sorry if i dont make sense i dont know how to word what im thinking. i was thinking of a single 15" and saw the ssa 15" xcon. would this be what i am looking for?

well igot some bad news today. my rl-p 18 came in and fedex must have dropped it. the sub was packaged perfectly, with a 2x4 and mdf crate that supported the sub, and a layer of foam to protect it from shock. but we all know how bad the delivery people throw shit around. the cone is locked up, doesnt move at all. upon closer inspection i noticed the motor had shifted about a quarter of an inch. is there anyway to push it back? or is a recone the only option? heres a picture. you can see where it was on the right side by the whitish line you can kind of see

This may have already been posted, though I didn't find anything on a search. An interesting read I thought. Ascendant Audio SMD review

RUNNING 2 MASSIVE AUDIO P3000.1 AMPS, 350 AMP ALTERNATOR, AND 3 KINETIC HTC 1800'S SOON TO BE 9 1800'S, WHAT SUBS SHOULD I RUN I AM VERY AGRREVATED TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS BEST TO GET ME TO 155 DB.