Subwoofers / Speakers

Here is a cool one for everyone who is amazed at the size of an MTX RFL. Here it is compared with a Shocker Sig. One of my favorite pics. And yes, the Shocker is a 12".

I searched the web looking for a "how to" on fixing Tinsel leads and couldn't find one. So I made one myself and would like to share it with the car audio community. (I will be cross posting this "how to" other web sites.) Don't throw that sub away just because the leads broke! Here's how to fix them. Finding new leads can be a pain, and this is just a "how to" video. So I will just be using De soldering braid instead of replacement tinsel leads. De soldering braid will work in place of real leads, but not for long. This can be a bit time consuming and will take some patience. I'll use this old sub I had laying around for this. Start by going around the dust cap with a…

I cant take credit for this, I found it on another forum and saved it.

Question in title If a subwoofer is meant for a 1.6 cubic ft ported enclosure, but let say I put it in a 1.8 or 2.0 cubic ft one, what exactly are the risks and/or consequences? Also, what would happen if a port is too small for the sub? what if the port is too big (too wide/long)?

Yeah, I'm so happy right now, NOT! Anyway, I'm in my car with the beats going pretty good and all of a sudden the bass cuts out. I pop the trunk and run back to see WTF. My amp is on, it's not in protect, voltage is good, I'm f**kin clueless. Then as I'm about to stab the f**ckin sub it turns back on. Again, WTF. Then it doesn't exactly cut out but it plays at like 25% volume for a little while then comes back on then goes back to 25% vol. I go to the head unit, turn the volume down and after a while it seems to play normal. I wait and eventually turn the volume up again and presto! The mindf**ck starts all over again. Can a sub blow with no signs of it getting …

I am only posting this for observational reasons. F.i. SP4 18" Fully loaded 3,000rms - $564 plus shipping DC Audio Level 6m2 4,500rms - $1,200 MAP iirc SSA Evil 3,250rms - $799 Shipped B2 Audio XC 3,000rms - $1,650 Online Warehouse Tantric Sounds SHD 5,000rms - $735 plus shipping Crossfire XSv2 2,000rms - $1,299 plus shipping Sonic Electronix AA SMD 3,500rms - $899.99 plus shipping (v2 coming soon)

Hi I am looking for subwoofer recommendations for 12 inch to be used in a SEALED enclosure I got 3 cubes GROSS and 2000rms to play with I want the subs to be able to get low, so f3 has to be in the mid to low 30s I also want them to get LOUD with high SPL so i guess that means it has to have strong motor and plenty xmax Some subs i was thinking of are: DC level 3 12s SSA gcon (these are 750 rms each, would 2 of them be ok on 2000rms? i dont know if these subs are underrated or not) SSA icon (these are 1250 each...would 2 of them be on on 2000rms?) IA lethal injection (no idea what the F3 is on sealed boxes on this sub) Image dynamics IDMAX v3…

So i have a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel amplifier. 2 channels are setup to my front component speakers and the other 2 channels are bridged for my subwoofer. heres the specs for my amplifier 4-channel car amplifier 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) 125 watts RMS x 4 at 1 ohm 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms) Im almost positive that my subwoofer is bridged at 4 ohms. not sure how to tell exactly? any easy way to check? but also, my subwoofer is meant for 4 ohm. so id assume its been wired properly, since it seems to be working fine. and my subwoofer is the rockford fosgat…

Anyone here using Addictive Audio subs or amps?

I have a PowerBass XS15Dv.2 that I just picked up and only had 500Watts RMS pushing the Damn thing and the positive on one side & neg. on the other blew!(Voice Coils) What would cause this? I bridged my Phoenix Gold XS2500 and had the Sensitivity & Bass controls at about half way up! I hooked up the sub in Parrallel config. How can you blow the voice coils of a 1000W RMS Sub if you hook up 500W to it! Can someone explain! Also how can I get it fixed? Thanks

I've been a FI guy ever since my first Fi sub...... I've been in love and never have doubted Fi. That is until I got these gen 3 neo btl's.... the bass is far different compared to my gen 2 even in a very similar enclosure.... I don't feel like typing a long drawn out review at the moment but in general I am disappointed.... Secondly I beat on my gen 2 btl with a 3000D at 1 ohm for almost two years and was happy... I recently sold this setup so I could try out the neo's... Well tonight one of my subs started scraping.... took it out of the box and it ohmed out perfect. I then free aired it and it was apparent I had a problem... so after taking the moving assembly out of…

Just wondering if ANY Members remember these Sub's. They were manufactured by Still Water Designs back in the Early 90's. Most remember there 15" box because it had a whole row of 2 1/4" ports all way across the bottom of the box. But they also made some Bad A_S 10's that were sold in bass tubes. They were isobaricly stacked. If you didn't know what you were looking at you just thought it was a 10" sub in a tube. But if you looked close you would wonder WTF when you noticed that it's mounted in a 12" hole with what looks to be bolts going through the normal mounting holes. . . . . . . . . . . . They were Very expensive back then not to mention in efficient. $700 a tube an…

I was just reading the thread discussing running DVC subs off one coil compared to both and there was also talk of sub woofer efficiency...That got me thinking, what is the most efficient driver available for mobile audio applications? Also why is efficiency generally so bad? Given technological progress with computers, phones, etc you would think there would be great leaps in sound and driver efficiency also? Have drivers made progress over the past 20 years?

rattlebox317 scored this for me, any one have any input on what would be a cool enclosure for it? sorry for the shitty pics fellas, tell santa get me a new camera. lol chop

Friend has one, wants help building a box, general system setup, etc. Looks like this, but nastier.: (no pics of my own) It's got the little tab terminals and everything. Funky and old. Haven't thrown a DMM on it so no guess at the imp. Single coil. As many specs as you got. Throw 'em up.

1st round was done in my Stratus, in a 2.5 cubic ft. box, tuned to 40hz. Burp freq was 44hz for all subs, they all peaked at the same freq in my car, just like every other subwoofer that's been in there. Here's the average numbers for each sub. I'm compiling a spreadsheet with every test individually tonight, when I finish testing. 1st test on a single SAZ-3000d, 300 amp alternator, Stinger 2150 battery, all run at 1 ohm, except for the DD 9512, which was done at .5 ohms, due to coil configuration on the only one I could get for this weekend. 5 burps were done on each sub, given appropriate cooldown in between burps. RE MT - 146.4 SPL 12 - 146.4 DD 9512 - 146.3 IA DP -…

We are looking at purchasing a new pair of subs for my kids Honda.We were set on the Sundowns until I saw the Skars.Are the Sundowns worth the extra money?The current box is 4 cu ft tuned to 35hz.Power is a AP1800.1D at 2 ohms.Please speak from experience.

I know that too small a port area will lead to port noise, but what happens if you have excessive port area? For example 20 sq inches per cubic ft of volume? I know many manufactures recommend 12-16 inches per cubic foot of volume, but is there a downside to going over this?

Well I've kept you all in suspense long enough. However, I am NOT going to post a side-shot of the Mag because we are changing the basket color and something else. The picture below is NOT of the final driver - the gasket is going to be re-done so it matches up better with the surround. As you can see, there is a gap. The gap will be fixed. So, without typing everything all over again I'm going to paste what I just sent my reps: I got the driver hooked up in 1.2 cubes in the Civic tonight!!! It

Well, as the title states, let's get some vids up of the actual production drivers. I'll start: 12", 250watts, 1 cube sealed. http://media.putfile.com/MAG1

what are some good 6.5's for under $200? I been searching for a while and a lot of people like image dynamics. I heard a set of focal and they sounded amazing. but I don't know the model

New company to me , seen some of their post recently on Facebook and seems interesting to say the least.. https://m.facebook.com/EMFAudio?id=461806803870821&_rdr Funny I thought I was looking at a Sundown Zv4 with a different dust cap from the pics I saw but after seeing the video I believe this is their first sub that they will be putting on the market... EMF Audio Ermagerd 15 50 mm linear Xmax 4" 8-Layer Coil 6500 rms Cool ..

Found them and they look pretty good compared to my sa12s. Reading up on them they seem to hit the low lows very well. How would they compare to my sa12s? 35hz 1.75 cubes and 750rms each. And are they made in USA?

So have any SSA members played with this new sub? From the reviews I have read so far, its on par with a W7 output wise... but with great SQ. how would it compare with say a 15" Fi Q/bl or SS RL-P? If its comparing to the W7, then my first guess would be not at all(SQ, or SPL)...right? I have not heard any of these subs in person so its hard to make a decision....for the new build. leaning towards rlp's at the moment...

If you could bring one back what would it be?? I will always say, round solo, Power HX2, PG Ti Elite, TC-7 based Eclipse Alum's....