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The smart power supplies are a constant voltage powr supply. The 45 amp would work fine but if you mix different sized batteries you should charge them individually. For practical uses I would lean more towards their inteligent charger (35 amp as you put it). A high output alt should be put in however and use the charger to keep the batteries maintained..it is a handy item to have to maintain all of your 12v car batteries.

I've searched the hell out of kinetik 2400 charger or kinetik chargers and found virtually nothing. The kinetik site says to use at least a 2-stage charger, but only have their 45/60/80 amp chargers listed. I found a kinetik 35 amp on ebay for $99, but wanted to confirm it would be powerful enough. My original thought was to keep the 90amp alt, and just charge/top off the batts every week or two. It doesn't work like that unfortunately. The charge or "top off" would only help for a few seconds then it will be like it never happened. You really have no use for a charger as you will only have two batteries. I have seen chargers help when there is a large bank of batteries and you charge them to burp.

He and a lot of members are this way and get mad because when they ask a question nobody gives them a direct bs answer to run off with. We want to get down to the nitty gritty to make sure you know what your doing, the skills you have to pull it off, the equipment to get it done and so on. He doesnt do any research at all, the other day he made a thread about gel vs agm without doing any searching at all. Some people ask questions and just want us to answer them while they sit back and do no work to actually help them out.

spend a couple hundred more and get a Zed Audio Leviathan If i'm not mistaken you can run 4 for mids/highs and bridge channel 5+6 and use it as sub stage amp "Channels 5+6 will do full range or Low Pass (mono or stereo) with a variable subsonic crossover." Sexy amplifier!

You should plan on spending at least a grand for a proper electrical system for a BTL to properly power it...

XCON 15" sealed in as much space as you can give it. With about 1500w.

My opinion is that it is in fact a subwoofer that reproduces sound.

Lots of people use the MaxxLink. A lot of people gain several tenths of a Db just by swapping it in.

Is your main run 4awg to a distro? If so, it really should be 1/0awg.

Also a budget and what type of box it's in would be helpful.

Electrical upgrades are never a bad idea.

Weight has nothing to do with which driver will perform better. If you want loud, you should be using a ported box. If you can't fit a ported 15" driver, you should be looking at a 12" ported driver. Based upon your "usable frequencies", ported is a MUCH better option anyway.

That's pretty Ghetto ^ Unless you soldered the wire into that copper, your chances of it slipping out of that are pretty high.

SAZ-1500D would be plenty for 2 W7's.

You won't be able to see any of that.

You should hear me pee. And when I run, my balls slap my legs... o jeezus look out.

I bet your front wheels rub the body quite a bit.

Not if you set your gain knob properly.

The only recent motor changes have been to the BL and the BTL.

If you want to run 1000w and are stuck between the SSD and the Q... just get the Q.

If you don't plan on using the advanced active features of the 9887, just get the Pioneer.

That's right on the edge, but you should be fine. Add a little polyfill to help the response out.

Stick with the 720PRS's. Those speakers are amazing. One of the best sets Pioneer has ever sold.

All users with below 25 posts who entered (a lot of you had 1 post.. ) have been removed.

Maybe you should just email them. If they want you to have their numbers, they should be the ones to give it to you. Not some random person on the internet.

Depends on your vehicle, current electrical system and what amplifier you go with. But knowing that you want the BTL, plan on spending a good amount of money on your electrical.

I'm just going to interject for a quick moment to mention that all good sound comes down to source. I'll bring up yet again, the man that WON the SQ world championships (2001-2002ish?) in a Volkswagen GTI with the stock 3-way paper cone components. The only things he added was the Pioneer P9 combo and a set of older Boston Acoustics amplifiers. Let me reiterate the stock speakers part. Processing people. That what it's all about. That is the first step to SQ. It contains your equalizer, your time alignment and your crossovers.

Thanks for that info, I've been looking for the article I originally saw him in for awhile now and could scarcely remember any of the details. Off to Google I go.

A Dual 1 ohm woofer can only be wired to .5 or 2 ohms. Your best bet would be to get the DVC2 option.

Unless your vehicle came with a 200A+ alternator.. its time to upgrade. 6000w with only two 2400's is never a good idea. I'd bet your voltage is dropping into the mid 10's isn't it? You'll want to either look into a dual 200a alt option or a single 300-350a.

If you're set on the Q, get the DVC 1 ohm model and wire it down to 2 ohms. Generally there is less distortion at higher impedance's.

Did you call them and ask for an update? You can also purchase Selenium at Parts Express.

They can process it as long as the ship to address is the same as the one on the card.

USA vs Chinese Sure there are more of them, but they all smell like rice.

Try a different O-Scope. If both the idiot gauge and the stinger are showing 12v.. I'd say the scope you're using is frakked. Or try a cheap DMM.

That black blurb you see isn't an amp. The red thing is a display. Those things you see in the background are the Zapco C2k Series of amplifiers. And your signature is too large, I'm resizing that mess.

This is a horrible idea. There's a reason there are home audio amplifiers. There's also a reason people make 12v power supplies ment to take the type of abuse we're talking about here.

Depending on the vehicle, you may not even be able to build a proper box for 8 15" woofers. I say go with 4 18's.

If only the person was as good as the sub....

There's a Samsung unit that isn't horrible. Although there's not much in the way of tweaking controls. Actually, there aren't any controls. You just plug it into your tv and hope you have a decent sounding output there. HT-WS1

I wouldn't recommend doing this based upon variables of how each amp is built. Each is going to produce a different output voltage at the same frequency and ohm load amp to amp. Just the way they're built. There's no way to compensate that as it'll change at the next frequency, and the next and the next and the next.

Power master batteries are all AGM

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23338 Looks like they're up to 22 batteries. Here's the discount break down 15 batteries sold= 5% off internet pricing plus free shipping/handling (D3100’s = $331.55 shipped) 30 batteries sold=10% off internet pricing with a $10 flat charge for shipping/handling except on single battery purchases. Single battery purchases will receive free shipping. (D3100’s = $314.10+$10 S&H) 45+ batteries sold=15% off internet pricing with a $10 flat charge for the shipping/handling except on single battery purchases. Single battery purchases will receive free shipping. (D3100’s = $296.65+$10 S&H)

Since you have an American car the choices are pretty limitless. Ohio Gen makes great alts as does Mean Green and Power master.

I would email nick with pictures of the problem, along with when you bought the sub and info on your setup. You may be able to mail it in and get it repaired under warranty, but chances are since you say a coil went bad there was some user error that caused the problems. If the magnet cracked and shifted it may have rubbed the coil to death.

Aahah is that the one with the wireless sub? My dad brought that home and I just laughed. He proceeded to bring it back. Yah, that's the one. Its ok for what it is if you don't want anything more than just better sound from your TV. I mean, we're not expecting great results from an item that has no controls are we

This may help: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=38