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No. It is the ability to give up electrons that makes metal more or less conductive.

hey if you're planning on that and don't mind paying a little extra...... Ever though about a btl? it will be louder than the bl even on 1000 watts, and later down the road when you upgrade your electrical you can get a much bigger amp to put on it.

kinda sounds like your here for the wrong reason. just my .02

I was responding to the fact that it looks unprofessional. People tend to look for uniformity and eye appeal in something they are looking at buying. It doesn't matter if an ugly gizmo that does the job admirably, the pretty one that does an ok job will sell better 99% of the time. Remember this Pretty sells. Period Your job as someone who is looking to put a product out for purchase is to provide reason why they should buy it from you. Part of that is to have a professional appearance in your product which involves straight/square/even angles/whatever it is supposed to be. Now I may see your idea for marketing the product, see your shoddy work that you just posted and think to myself "Hmmm, I have a pile of scrap copper and I can do a hell of a lot nicer job than that for the same money, I can steal all his business." Now what is to stop me from doing that? For me it is the lack of time and I don't have a desire to steal your business or even cater to that crowd. Here are some hints. -Invest in a square, either an adjustable hand square or a speed square, doesn't matter which one -Invest in a hammer and center punch to mark your holes, it will reduce the drill bit walking around on you -Take time to lay it out and get it right the first time, that extra 5 minutes won't matter when it brings you more customers -If your going to sell it, make your display pieces nice, and then make jigs to build them better and faster -If you wouldn't show it off in your own install, don't friggin sell it. -Put a radius on your corners, makes it look nicer -Remove all sharp edges, wherever someone can cut their hand, they will

First off the Q is not an infinite baffle that would be the IB3. The Q is geared towards SQ and is not what many people are looking for even though they think they are. The SSD can be in sealed and ported enclosures and is a good daily driver sub. The BL is made for a ported box only so you have to have the room for one. If you are looking for the loudest out of the 3 then it would be the BL. Please give us more information so we can tell you what sub to get. Tell us what kind of music you listen to, previous setups or heard setups and what you enjoyed or disliked about them, and what your budget and the room you have available is. You will get a lot more responses and people won't have to guess what the best would be for you if you can give us a little more information to work with.

My guess is that your percieved tuning frequency on either the new boxes or the old one was off from the reality, hence the different responses.

Imma have to agree with this.

You are overpowering the sub. Just because you set the gains with an oscope doesn't mean you aren't still sending the sub too much power. You're sending a 1000 watt RMS sub between 1500 and 1800 watts. A ported box will have the most control of the cone from probably 2hz below tuning to about 10 hz above tuning. If you download winISD and take a look at an excursion plot you'll see what I mean. Excursion dips around tuning then raises quite a bit above there.

FIRST of all the amp itself has NOTHING directly to do with the number of DB's you can get. The amount of SPL you achieve has more to do with the driver, enclosure and their installation in relationship to the acoustics of the vehicle than the power you run. To say you saw in this forum that AMP CAN HIT XXX.X DB's is worthless to say. Now, if you're looking to get louder it's possible a re-tune of the port may help, moving the enclosure (not always possible) is another way to increase spl. Put a volt meter on the amp and watch your voltage, if it's dipping very much you may need to rethink your electrical. What we need is this: 1. Tuning of your enclosure. 2. Type of vehicle. 3. Placement in said vehicle. 4. Port/Driver relationship. (i.e. Sub up, port up; sub forward, port forward) This kind of info can help us figure out what your setup really is and what ways that we've seen, used, heard of to improve numbers in your situation. Also, where did your enclosure come from? Is it a pre-fab, you built it, professionally built? There's more reasons than you can fathom as to why numbers go up or down in any given setup.

Tell him it's a stupid idea and a stupid way to go about doing it. Why does he think it's going to be "better" to have the subs in a poorly designed and inadequate ported enclosure?

Tell him to port it himself, why cant he port it? They will sound terrible in that box ported and then he probably wont want them, I would just try and talk some sense in to him first and tell him you cant always get what you want. But if you insist on porting there are few sites that will help you and have calculators to help with porting an enclosure, search around this forum and online.

SSA FTW .

If you have a problem talk to a moderator or admin. There is no need to start a drama thread on here.

Well, hello thar !

Sealed on the dash. 47hz Door open on the dash. 47hz Door open on the dash. 25hz Door open in the kick. 33hz Door open in the kick. 52hz

couple vids ... sounds good for the power on them... can't wait for more power

clipping FTW !!!!!

getting 400 a piece till the other amp gets ordered.

yea thats def b stock, lol. u guys are hilarious. I just ordered the material for the fuse block and stock battery bar... and no, it wont be crooked.

the corners aren't necessary. the material is uber soft as it is. It seems the softer the material, the more conductive it is, or at least that's how aluminum is. Copper is already a soft material.