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SSA DCON Series Sundown SA-12 is a great woofer with great sq and get's loud. Incriminator Audio - 187 Series Alot of choices in the SSA store .... Take a look and then look over the free enclosure plans.

Make a compromise that is what car audio is all about, do you want 500 extra watts that are going to be audibly noticeable for more money and more wiring/rcas/remote start wire and take up more space. This is really a personal decision to be honest with, I dont see why a 2500 watt amplifier cant push 1000 watt subwoofers (you dont have to send a sub its rms or more than its rms to perform to its capabilities). x2 less is more and most of the time better for the sub! hell you should get just get a SAZ1000d from sundown! they are on sale right now! Sundown March Sale ! - SSA Car Audio Forum

Not till there ready. When there ready they will go up. Till then, no dates. Besides, you need to buy from us for those anyway.

Make a compromise that is what car audio is all about, do you want 500 extra watts that are going to be audibly noticeable for more money and more wiring/rcas/remote start wire and take up more space. This is really a personal decision to be honest with, I dont see why a 2500 watt amplifier cant push 1000 watt subwoofers (you dont have to send a sub its rms or more than its rms to perform to its capabilities).

Anton Personally I wouldn't do anything yet. Get in the BTL and then figure out what songs do what that you don't like. Then determine which frequencies those are and then ask for assistance in solving those anomalies. Wanting to adjust to adjust regularly (read almost always) makes things worse than they are. Exceptions there are tons, but eq'ing to eq is NOT a good answer. Eq'ing to make something better is

Actually it, won't. I don't understand why you think it would. Completely different mechanism. Boo, seriously? You don't post for months and then come with this? It most definitely does not ABSORB noise which you seem to be implying and even as a blocker it isn't effective. It should be used for defeating structural resonance and changing damping, but a CLD is better for that. Its sole advantage is in the way that it is applied, but considering you don't need to cover that much of a panel even that is of dubious benefit.

I told you exactly what product you need to look for in my 2nd paragraph. What more do you want? yes i know, a 1/3 octave that starts at 20 hz, but what brand, i now know what type, but now what is a good brand. not trying to be a menace or anything, just trying to do it right. its like telling some one they need an amplifier that does 1000wrms at 2 ohms, does that mean every amp out there will work for them? no. who knows i might chose the worst one... i dont want that to happen. sorry if you consider this spoon feeding, but it will help alot! thanks, Anton Miller Because I spend 30+ minutes going to half a dozen or more online sites to find affordable, reputable products for the best prices for the requester only for them to find a reason not to chose any of them.....which means I just wasted 30+ minutes for nothing. You can do the legwork. Find some EQ's within your budget that offer the features that you need, toss the links up here and we can help you separate the junk from the decent products out of what you selected.

Net is the remaining amount after all displacements are deducted from the gross enclosure volume. Apparently Alton has never received a paycheck.....your Gross pay is the amount of money you earned, your Net pay is the amount you receive after all deductions (taxes, insurance, etc) are subtracted. I also do not think he scrolled far enough down on the definitions page: net 2   /nɛt/ Show Spelled [net] Show IPA adjective, noun, verb,net·ted, net·ting. –adjective 1. Remaining after deductions, as for charges or expenses (opposed to gross): net earnings. And if he had read the definition for gross that he posted; gross    /groʊs/ Show Spelled [grohs] Show IPA adjective,-er, -est, noun,pluralgross for 11, gross·es for 12, 13; verb –adjective1.without deductions; total, as the amount of sales, salary, profit, etc., before taking deductions for expenses, taxes, or the like (opposed to net): gross earnings; gross sales. So....Gross is before deductions, net is after deductions.

keep crying then. up to you. ur 8s still going hit 126dbs anyways. what the fuck is this bitch's problem? what the fuck are you talking about? not sure any one here yanked your chain, you mouthy lil shit, but hey, it's called anticipation, that is what these guys are displaying, not bitching.... if indeed there was no anticipation, no hype, then the sales would go down, not up, which is bad for buisness.... what is also bad for buisness is some dumb ass that feels a need to run his cock sucker for gp..... fuck off, keep your negative shit to your self! chop interesting your coment is the only negative i have seen wah wah wah. lol. JACOB SAID WHEN IT ARRIVES HE WILL START SENDING IT OUT THAT DAY OR THE NEXT. IM SAYING GET OFF HIS BACK ABOUT IT. you can keep crying though porkchop. i wont judge.

right on steve meade. btw when is your paintjob on your hoe gonna be done. lol

If you put your EQ to -2 @ 60hz, then the signal shouldn't be down -8 @ 32hz. The signal @ 32hz may be down some, but it will be some amount less than -2 (the adjustment at the center frequency of the EQ). One thing you need to understand however is that there is no EQ on the market that will allow you to adjust individual frequencies. Every EQ has an Q factor. The value of Q tells you how wide of a bandwidth of frequencies will be affected by an adjustment made to the EQ at a given center frequency. The higher the Q, the narrower the bandwidth. So when you make an adjustment at 50 or 60hz, some range of frequencies above and below that frequency (the bandwidth depends on the Q) will be affected by the adjustment (the further from the center frequency, the less the signal is affected). So any EQ won't offer exactly what you want. An adjustment at one frequency will affect frequencies around it.....there's no escaping this fact. A parametric EQ allows you to adjust the Q factor as well as the center frequency of EQ bands. This would allow you a little more control over the effect of the EQ, but parametric EQ's generally have less EQ bands. So while their control is a little better, the give you less bands to play with. A graphic EQ has fixed center frequencies and Q factors, so there is less flexibility but they generally offer more bands. If you want "a lot" of control in the bottom 2 octaves, you'll probably have to go the route of a 1/3 octave graphic EQ. It would give you the most bands to contour the sound. A typical 1/3 octave graphic EQ that begins at 20hz would have center frequencies in the bass region of 20, 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63 & 80hz. Most parametrics will likely offer only around 2 bands of adjustment within the same 2 octaves. I'd also ask what subwoofer and enclosure you were using? A change in enclosure alignment may help partially solve the issues you are having aswell. Fixing some response issues related to the enclosure would reduce the amount EQ necessary to reach your target response.

let's look at all the uses a $20 item can do and see why people don't need them.. They can determine if you received the right speaker. They can determine if the coils are damaged. They can determine if a battery is discharged and needs charging. They can determine if your voltage regulator is working properly. They can determine if any power wire runs are shorted to ground by accident. They can determine if a fuse is good or not. They can help in tuning an amp to a certain extent. They can help measure output of an amp but requires more than just a DMM. They can help measure voltage drop issues. They can help find resistance issues with voltage drop from the front to the rear of the car so you can isolate where the problem is occurring. They can help measure voltage levels inside the house and frequency to determine if you have a faulty outlet or wiring in the house. So with these common problems... you are probably right.. you don't need one.

give me a rep, The best thing i like about forums, especially ones i actually help on rather than get help is helping every single person i possibly can in hopes those people attain the knowledge to help those who used to be in their shoes... IT is at this point that the forum as a whole will be more educated and, in their own experiences, share information with all of us in hopes that experienced users may gain new information and then help us, again, to learn more. Educating the right person will help others learn even faster. Knowledge is power and sharing is what keeps it going.

ALSO make sure it is on A/C volts not D/C lol i have done that a few times! if it is on D/C and yet set it to say 30volts d/c you are actually seting it lower then when you pop it into a/c you will read like 25volt ac those numbers are just for reference sake! but A/C no D/C

sure pal. why cant you just admit your wrong, before i post your pm calling a few members on here NOOBs. this has gone way to far with you. you thought i was a newb and you got owned im done with your petty shit.

its hard to compare a new amp to a used one, because theres really no knowing how much wear and tare is on that used amp. if you were to compare them when they are both new, i would say roll with Audioque if budget is the main issue, and sundown if you want a quality, beefy ass board that will most likely last longer than the audioque.

Displacement of what? Do you have price in mind? Details. Noone can read minds

OK sir ... I don't know of any low notes below 25 htz on ANY album ... Satisfied???