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From the pictures they appear to be aimed fairly off axis to the listeners, which is not uncommon as this allows the listening axis of both seats to be closer to equally off axis to both speakers which in turn helps the frequency response have less deviation between the L & R speakers at the listening position. If you look at pictures of some of the big name competitors, their mids are hardly ever aimed at the listener. They are usually aimed far off axis, many times aimed straight across the vehicle at each other. Vertical (height) ques generally begin to occur when the wavelength of the soundwave is equal to the height of your ear. Generally this will be in the 3khz - 4khz range......But if ya got big honkin' ears you may start to recognize height ques at a much lower frequency The potential problem with separating the mid from the tweeter by a great distance (a distance greater than the wavelength of the crossover frequency) is coherence and frequency response at and near the crossover point. It can be overcome, but something that needs considered. In midbass frequencies the wavelength of the sound wave is typically longer than the diameter of the cone (for the speaker sizes we typically use in car audio) so the on- and off-axis response of the driver is not going to deviate from each other. But as frequency increases and the wavelength becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone (as may happen in the midrange frequencies) the soundwaves generated by the cone will begin to destructively interfere with each other and the off-axis begin to roll off and deviate from the on axis response. Think of the speaker as an array of tiny point sources. When the wavelength of the soundwave is less than the distance between the sources, they can destructively interfere. Where this problem occurs for a driver playing midrange depends on the diameter of the driver. The effect is referred to as "beaming". This is one of the reasons I mentioned above that many competitors intentionally aim speakers off axis to both listeners. If you aim a speaker on axis to one listener, it will inherently be off axis to the other listener. Since in the midrange frequencies beaming usually begins to occur, the on and off axis response is going be different. One thing you generally want in a good stereo setup is for the frequency response at the listening position to be the same from both the left and right speakers. And if you want a stereo to sound equally as good from both the driver and passenger seats, then the frequency response at both seats also needs to be the same. So if you aim the speakers on axis to the driver, the passenger will be off axis and hence the frequency response will likely be different. If you aim the speakers at some arbitrary point between the two seats, then you will be more off axis to the near side speaker than you will be the opposing speaker which will create a difference in frequency response between the left and right speakers. But if you aim them close to equally off axis to both listeners, then the response at both listening positions and from both speakers will be closer to the same. Some competitors start by aiming the speakers either at the opposing speaker or at the back of the headunit, then make their adjustments from there. I tried to help. Sorry, I didn't read this paragraph before asking about the crossover

Final port size is 7 3/4 x 8 1/2. The line is approx 7ft . First impression of the box to me is like a band pass seems really good on the low notes but has a cutoff around above 50-60. As Jacob has said they are stiff and need to be broke in. I only put approx 400 to the pair. I did have a couple of install issues. I had to re route my cutout to it to drop in and then I had to notch where the terminals were. I'll post up some photos of the gaskets so everyone can make sure their cutouts are right. One thing they are not is Loose and Sloppy! I'm building yet another box tomorrow 1.5 cubes kerf ported tuned to 35. Note I was using my zune directly to the amp which isn't the best source. For the finished install I have an saz 1500 and will be running an audio control lc6i which should give me 6 volt input.

TRULY its not possible to isolate it completely, but that would be truly unnecessary. In your case in particular. If your goals are as I think they are, and the LP amps are anything like they should be based on their price, then you shouldn't have to worry at all. If the OP has different goals which I assume he does it is a different story. He didnt' give us the required background to make the thread super helpful for him though.

Acoustic energy transfer is much weaker than something directly coupled to a vibrating source. Decoupling is definitely the key. Amusingly though at super high levels indeed you can destroy things. I work with airplane manufacturers where we will bombard metal with high enough amplitudes of acoustic energy to fatigue parts of the plane. It is a rather standard test in the industry, but the only thing causing the parts to fail is acoustic excitation. Strain on turbine blades for planes is also measured via acoustic excitation and unlike the fatigue tests these are at high frequencies. Moral of the story, if you truly want everything to be isolated not only vibration decoupling but acoustic decoupling could be beneficial. At the same time worrying about the acoustic levels is not something I'd be focused on as realistically only the levels in burp competition would be real harmful to an amplifier. This of course is where you will find cheaper amplifiers to fail more easily as the design process may not take into account resonant energy excitation which is a primary cause for printed circuit board failure. ie if the capacitors on a board resonate at 35Hz obviously ANY acoustic energy at 35Hz is going make them shake like hell and fail.

X2 to what jay-cee said with the mustang trunks. It was hard to fit anything into the trunk of my 2009 and the openings on the 2010's are even smaller.

I don't have much experience with the SSDs... j/k. I vote for 10" SSD, copper coils, and bp option. Put it in 1.25 net tops if you are going to give it more than 1000 watts. Going with a 10" sub would be easier to fit your box into the mustang trunk. I hate those trunk openings unless you build the box inside the trunk. Going with a 10 and bigger port opening might get you louder than going with a 12 SSD in minimal box with small opening.

This definition isn't very accurate either. For "phase cancellation" (destructive interference) to occur between two or more speakers the speakers do not have to be out of phase. For destructive interference to occur, the soundwaves simply need to interact with each other while the soundwaves are not in phase. The speakers may in fact be in phase while this is occurring. This phenomenon is very prevalent in car audio where we sit at different distances from the two speakers or in home theater where the listening positions can vary. There are other ways for destructive interference to occur. In home audio speaker design the center-to-center distance of drivers in speaker may cause destructive interference. The crossover can also cause two drivers in a given speaker to be out of phase since the crossover will shift the phase of the signal (90* phase shift for every 6db/oct increase in slope), in which case you must wire the drivers out of phase in order for the soundwaves to be in phase at the crossover point. You can also have destructive interference with a single speaker due to reflections. The reflected sound may reach the listener out of phase with the original sound. Not nitpicking your definitions.....but also do not want people misunderstanding the information being provided.

The sentences highlighted in red are rubbish and should be excluded from any viable definition of DF. For more information on damping factor see here: Damping Factor

Really bad idea to give advice like that. What happens if you have to drive the amplifier into a square wave to get that voltage out of it?...then it isn't 600 watts at that point... Ohms law will get you in trouble if you use it like that, you completely disregard what kind of voltage you are getting out of your head unit which is what the entire point of matching the gain with. Not a "wattage" setting out of the amplifier into a DVOM that is not an oscilloscope...so you don't know if you are square waving it or not..if you clip it..it will burn.

I vote one box for both, and brace it big time.

Just set it with a DMM @ 34.64 volts to keep it at 600 watts, dont try to push the amp harder than it can be pushed and you should be fine until you get another amp if need be. I had 600-800 watts on 3 -12" Kicker CVX's (2250 rms total) and it did fine and sounded great.

The sundown won't be less stress on your electricals because it does what it says at a lower voltage. And OP did you not consider the amp I said?

does one 18 btl handle 4k rms for daily listening? in a 10 cft box. i just want to get the most out of my btl so i think of strapping my two bxi 2610 two 2 ohm. someone told me one could never have enough rms for music. this guy was running 4 15 l7 on a kicker warhorse.