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finally got back up and running I have a couple builds to catch up on ...this one is for a pair of 12" Xcons 4.25cf3 tuned at 30hz

Ok, relax a little. He was not saying anything bad about the Blues speakers. He was speaking in factual terms that apply to all installs. And he is right about our ears. In the big picture, the total install is the impact of the end result. Meaning two different people can have the exact same vehicle and equipment, but that does not mean the end sound will be the same. There are so many factors at play, yes the quality and engineering behind a driver is very important, but there are a great deal of other installation variances that over ride that in the end, hence his example about the VW speakers.

I really doubt you know what's going to be better for the JL motor than JL does. After all, who spent millions on R&D? You or JL? Just saying, you're pretty much ruining resale value on it as well. It's an SQ subwoofer, good at sounding good. It's not some fart machine that you cobble together using bastard parts to hit 150+dB where it doesn't matter if it sounds good or not. I never said that I was trying to hit 150+dB. I just wanted to have it rebuilt for my own personal uses not to compete or anything of the sort. I wasn't implying that you were, I was using custom recones as an example. Thanks for being so uptight about it though. Don't ask for advice if you're not going to follow any of it.

What did you end up tuning the port to? You could try it and see. Good thing about being a little bigger is you can add MDF to the inside to take up volume until you get it where you like it. I had mine in 3CF and they were very happy.

A box will sound worse with Fiberglass, but you will not hear it.(the stronger a box is the peakier it will sound.) If u don't want to spend the few dollars for fiberglass, then don't do it. But if you use fiberglass, you can make it louder.(not only because it's stronger, but also because you can sand it really smooth which will increase db's) Don't use only resin, like some people do, resin doesn't helps. It's the fiberglass that makes it strong. There will be less flex, hurt SQ(inaudible) ,peakier response curve, db gain(in all the cases i've seen), no change in mechanical noise, no audible difference in sound, air flow get's better(cause you can sand it smooth, and maybe even polish it), no difference in distortion,or cancellation , Really don't know about the last one.

ok they are in the car for a week and they sound nice indeed. I still think it lack the lows a little, so i'm gonna seal it up, but otherwise they are dead accurate on music, i love them will 3.25 feet inch cube each sealed will be too much? will the upper bass range suffer (50-70hz...)

drill before, the holes are there for aid in the air pockets rising to the surface when filling with F/G resin. Thumpper, I like how you're using wider ports now on some enclosures. It's a little harder to handle when putting it in the enclosure (I know) but it looks so damn cool!!!

Jason Ewing once scored the highest in his class in the sound quality portion of a fairly major competition with stock VW speakers. Does that mean OEM VW speakers are some of the best speakers on the market? Worth $900 a set? The proof is in the pudding, right? "Ears" are inferior to objective measurements. That is indisputable. Your ears are prejudiced and subjective. Your ears are inaccurate measurement devices. Likewise, attempting to make a comparison between speakers when listening to them in different environments is a completely useless endeavor. You aren't listening to or comparing the speakers; you are listening to the entire system including installation, tuning and environment and basing your decision off of your personal opinion of what sounds "good" among other issues. That is not a valid or valuable comparison. Last, the competition format is not a format designed to compare individual components in a car audio system. How one fares in a car audio competition with a particular set of speakers is not necessarily an indication of the superiority of that particular speaker brand or how that speaker brand compares to other speakers on the market.

some people recommend putting tint over the display they say it is awfully bright. just saying from what i have read about them

well if you are going to connect it to your amplifer then whip out a dmm and check the voltage coming out of your power and ground on the amp...then once you have the stinger volt meter all lit up pull of the front screen and there should be a little dial that you can turn...and bam match the stinger volt meter to the dmm

Stealth, please chill out, name calling and being combative is not how we run things here. There is nothing wrong with a spirited debate or disagreement as long as people keep their heads and use factual information and sometimes have concrete examples to back up their statements. Take Impious' (Brad) posts in topics of disagreement, he goes point by point and throughly addresses each thing with experience (not just saying he has experience), the science or laws behind things, and sometimes factual calculations and examples to support his argument. I am not at all saying everyone needs to be as knowledgeable and skilled as Impious (if that were the case we would have less then 10k posts on here ), but we strongly prefer people take a much more scientific approach to each and every topic or question. THAT is what really sets the SSA forum apart and above all other copy-cats, plain and simple. People get pissed at ///M5 (Sean) all the time, but he is extremely consistent on working towards taking a logical and scientific approach to every problem or topic presented, that is the only way to really head in the right direction to reach the desired goal, what ever it may be. This above quoted post is very inaccurate. Install includes the enclosure/box and all equipment. The vehicle's resonant frequency will have a great deal to do with the end result. The positioning of the box (also part of install) will effect the end result. The gain settings, the HU settings, crossover settings, processor settings (if there is one), sound deadening applications and amounts, port and cone firing direction (also install), and so on. In reality, there should be no one single most important thing. Every aspect that can be controlled, with in reason and/or budget, along with how they effect each other, needs to be taken into consideration when working towards extracting maximum performance regardless of the focus or purpose of the install. Consider in the SPL game where people with far lesser expensive and lower power installs are putting up just as good if not better numbers then people who just think >> big cone + big amp = autowin. The first group of people are taking much more into consideration and using all parts they can to their advantage. All of this has to be combined with testing in the particular vehicle/install.

No, you get real. You've had your warnings, and now you're banned for 3-days.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box. And how is the box not part of the actual install ? Are you towing the box behind the vehicle ? You have some very skewed ideas.... so your saying nothing is specific....... everything that goes in is called an install. so it doesnt matter what sub, electrical, amp, box, tuning is all generalized by install because they are all being installed. lol Let's just design a box and don't care about the other parts involved (the install), plop in in the car and wonder why it sounds like arse... It's easy, everything that is installation related is part of it. You are starting to contradict yourself. Now you are saying that the enclosure design is specific and a couple posts before you said that the scenarion where you use it doesn't matter. Make up your mind. Look at the bolded posts again.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box. And how is the box not part of the actual install ? Are you towing the box behind the vehicle ? You have some very skewed ideas.... so your saying nothing is specific....... everything that goes in is called an install. so it doesnt matter what sub, electrical, amp, box, tuning is all generalized by install because they are all being installed. lol Stealth, in general your opinion doesn't matter, at all. You've been consistently wrong on the MOST basic ideas. I think (and im not the only one) you need to stop being the know it all arseho (with indeed the wrong information) and listen for a change. The enclosure is part of the install, the peak frequency of your car changes everything, example; my box was tuned to 32hz i peaked at 38hz. simple You sir, are an idiot.

I think what you are looking for is a song that exploits your box tuning frequiency. use a term lab, (and test tones sweep), find your enclosure and your cabin peak frequency, let us know what those numbers are. You should find what you are looking for then. Other than that, It will only be guess work and what sounds bast to you.

C'mon dude he told you where to go to get songs and your still complaining, honestly go to that thread and you will get all the answers you need. Either you need the songs or you dont, that is what that thread is for to see what songs people have great results with.

There's not a specific song for any specific woofer. There will be some songs that do better with some people's setups and some that do better with others. Your best bet would be to grab a few ideas from the Show off threads and try them out in your application.

dont post on my thread. Those wires are for 2 regular light bulbs. I have 6 LED lights. we're comparing mA to A. Go away.

NOT MINE ITS MY FRIEND AND HE ALLREADY HAS IT SO I NEED TO NO WHATS THE SMALLEST I CAN GO PORTED 15 cubes at least. 15 cubes for 1 18 ???? You could try 20.

NOT MINE ITS MY FRIEND AND HE ALLREADY HAS IT SO I NEED TO NO WHATS THE SMALLEST I CAN GO PORTED 15 cubes at least.

if u want quality ...stick with Fi ...but ...if u want to get louder than go with DD

ya, but the show off thread is extremely long, it would take me days to go through there. At least this way I get a idea to what hits good on these subs.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows.

no, so you are saying the box is just part of the install? so what about tuning? or is that just part of installing it? what dumbasses you guys are. im one of the only ones here that actually tried to help the OP and all you fags are just jagging on his thread talking shit. and john holmes this whole time? fukka you only been here for like 2 days. get real

I've heard that RD Audio amps work better straped. Again, Just what I heard. Don't know for sure. I run my sub amp a 8 ohm mono.

Just because a good woofer has a custom recone, it doesn't mean it continues to be a good woofer with the new "custom" parts on it. Half of the time the people with those "custom" woofers don't even know the T/S parameters of the woofers they've created (or purchased). The performance of a subwoofer is a result of the sum of it's parts. A good motor without the original parts but instead a "custom recone" done will not necessarily have performance anywhere close to the original. You are assuming the performance will be identical between the two. This is not necessarily the case. Just because you tossed a recone into the motor of a w6v2 does not mean you will have performance equivalent to that of a w6v2 unless you used parts identical to the original. So no, you are not necessarily going to get the "same thing" for $100 instead of $250. You may have an operational subwoofer, but that doesn't mean it will be equal in performance to a w6v2 just because you used that motor. LOL....yeah, right. So, tell me, how about did you go about designing this new custom driver to improve results over the original? I've ranted about this before, but this ridiculous "recone boner" going around the forums leaves n00bs like yourself under the delusion that anyone can just mix-n-match parts onto a motor and come out with great results. It's not the case. Half of the people with these "custom subs" wouldn't know a good subwoofer design or performance from their arseho, yet they parade around the forums about how great their sub is because it's "custom". There is a reason subwoofer companies spend months to years designing and testing a subwoofer before bringing it to market. It's not because they are just randomly tossing parts together like so many of these "custom recones". LOL. All this name calling and putting custom build companies down really cracks me up. Lalala noob this lalala noob that, the woofer wont perform the same this, that and the next, whatever. Um, noob is this a new word for you or something, notice its been thrown around a lot lately. Anyway, everyone has their own opinion on everything and I guess you have yours, but I also have mines. So you do you and ill do the same. Thanks for the input though.

of course its part of what your installing, but when you say "part of the install" you generally mean how its installed, elects, and so forth. a box is more than that. it cant just be generalized into that big of category. trust me, most of you guys bashing are newbs. ill just leave it at that. who said that an in car peak frequency doesnt change. lol not me. ive got more experience in here than all of you newbs with systems and setups..... you know why i always bash you guys?? because seriously guys like jaycee, alton, duran, julian etc. etc i can go on are all noobs that jag all over the mods and agree with them to bash me because you dont know shit yourself and are trying to get COOL points with the mods. this whole forum is turning into noobs. when i first got here, id read up on good material and took notes on great threads but nowadays it seems that every post is by some dummy who dont know shit, talking shit.,