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There is no precise frequency range. It's not like 59hz is subbass and 60hz is midbass, or 299hz is midbass and 300hz is midrange. It's not that definitive. All you'll end up hearing are opinions as everyone operates with a different definition of midbass. Some people base it on the musical content within each range; I.E. lower male vocals can extend down into the 200hz range, so they set the upper limit for midbass at 200hz. Some people base it on octaves; I.E. the lowest 2 octaves are subbass (20-80hz), the next 2 octaves are mibass (80-320hz). Some people base it on the localization cues; I.E. the frequency range where sound is localized based ITD and/or IID, etc. I personally generally define "midbass" as being approximately (and somewhat arbitrarily) between 60hz and 400hz for the simple reason that this range generally encompasses the bandwidth that most people use "dedicated midbass drivers" due to 1) limitations of their midbass driver's capabilities and 2) limitations of their midrange driver's capabilities. That said; Some people use their dedicated midbass drivers between 50hz and 500hz, others use them between 80hz and 300hz. How you will and should use your midbass drivers just depends on the goals for the system, the limitations of the drivers, how the speakers all integrate together, where they are being located, etc.

Excellent post Brad. As explained above, there is too many factors to pin point a set frequency range across the board for everyone. I have had mid-bass drivers in prior installs that had to be cut off (slope varied) as high as 70~80hz. Where as another more recent install, where I had a larger rear cavity for the drivers, lower frequency capabilities, and substantially more deadening/dampening, I was able to run down to 40~45hz with ease. If you can, and your drivers are able to, aim to get them to cross over as low as they can. This will help bring the lower frequencies forward as part of the front stage (if in system with no rear "stage"), and lessen the range of frequencies the sub woofer has to cover. As always, it takes testing and adjustments, because you don't want a harsh separation between where the mid-bass's roll off and where the sub woofer comes in (meaning dialing out any sharp peaks in output when the sub woofer come in).

of course you could use the tweeters and get the 6.5 you want and build your own crossover. (get the specs of the tweeter) or you could just get a nice amp with built in Xovers, OR a HU to do it more precisely.

BM'er got rid of the stupid timing belts on their 2.5 motors in 1992. That one has a chain. Low maintenance is relative. BMW asks that you change the brake fluid every 10k or year, obviously not necessary but if you follow the book there are a ton of things to do. Most do not have to be done. Realistically there should be less to do than on your Honda. On top of that it is easier to do and the parts are CHEAPER. Super reliable cars in that era.

when you set the gains on your amp the bass knob will turn it up to whatever your gain is on your amp it doesnt just overide the amp and turn it all the way up its so you dont have to go adjust the gains every 5 second if you dont want it that loud right then what i do is set the gains on my amp with an o scope and leave it there then just use the bass knob to adjust the power going to the subs

I'm sorry, but WRONG. yes, they are both compressed. But there is a HUGE difference between lossy(mp3) and lossless formats such as flac. lossless formats compress without throwing tons of data out, they keep it, it is an exact replica of the source.

Wow....i just got mindfucked...why the hell were you @ 11.5 resting?

You hear that! This assclown, dumbfuck, is a gift from god!