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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/19/2010 in all areas
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1st 2010 Camaro SS with hydraulics - MUST SEE!
1 point
- XCON Tucson Arizona Tour @ Southwest Audio Fest May 2010
My first run ever with the termlab in the headrest, I was told after to open the opposite window from the meter to get a better score. Next months show, I will be better prepared for.1 point- 2~15" Icon's Build
1 pointThanks a lot for the comments guys! The main construction should be done today as long as it doesn't start to sprinkle on me. The angles really mess with your head when you're getting ready to cut. One wrong measurement or cut and the piece is junk....LOL Man I want to hear this so freakin' bad but, I don't want to rush it and have a poor construction error turn into an install nightmare... More pics tonight!!!!!!1 point- replacing stock speakers all around
Now you see how install and tuning can make OR break any set of speakers. You will definetly want to hear them without a subwoofer playing and one set at a time. You will find out real quick that opinions are VERY SUBJECTIVE to what the person has heard to compare to.1 point- Help me find the best compenents for my build....
It's down to you going and listening to speakers w/a CD/song you're familiar with. My ears aren't your ears, so what sounds good to me, might not to you and vise versa. What's your budget ???? Some SQ brands, Morel, Dynaudio, Focal, Rainbow... There's a lot out there, to many to list.1 point- 15 fi q getting hot
1 pointThrow the bass knob away, turn the bass boost off. It's ok for it to get 'hot.'..it's going to get hot. 99% of the energy you are putting into that thing is wasted heat. If it is starting to smell, then you have an issue and you are over driving the amp trying to make the sub take dirty power... Odds are you are clipping it trying to get more out of it then the amplifier can produce. It's no different then running an engine in a car lean on fuel.1 point- You guys have this alt?
1 pointIraggi is in a location that was hit hard with the flooding in west and middle TN, so that could be some of the delays in communication. I know at one point the road into their shop was closed off. Not sure what the current status is. Not trying to make excuses for them, but I know west and middle TN were hit very hard and they are still trying to recover.1 point- replacing stock speakers all around
Huh? Whose kool-aid are you drinking? Absolutely NO reason whatsoever to "keep them the same". In fact you should only have one pair anyways as the rest just confuse the stage. That pair should most definitely be up front. Of couse it made a difference, you went from crap to not as crap. Either way, you should ALWAYS spend your whole budget on the fronts. It will make a bigger difference than splitting it up. As stated already definitely go and listen and let your ears decide. Buying speakers that you haven't heard on the net is like buying a pair of shoes over the internet and not knowing what size they are before you get them. Not so likely they will be right for you.1 point- What to do to make a box look like this...
does not look like kerf cuts to me, looks like some nice roudover work.1 point- 2~15" Icon's Build
1 pointWell, I managed to squeeze in some work between rain storms the past couple days. Here's the shelf that will hold the secondary battery in the rear. Trevor don't laugh at my welds.....I just started to learn how 2 weeks ago....LOL Here's the tracks that will hold the hood to the enclosure. Time to carve out the sides and see how they fit. They're on a 12-1/2 degree bevel to fit the window taper. And.........guess what this is for! (It should be obvious.....LOL) I'll keep my eye on the sky for a chance drag out the gear and try to finish this dang thing.1 point- ICON Prototype 12" Temp build
1 point1 point- 15'' Fi BTL
1 pointset your amps gain to match your hu output. anything more it will sound like shit and smoke your sub. Turn HU up to 75% max volume, turn the gain up on your amp until it does not get any louder and listen to the woofer for fatigue the whole time. (bottoming out would be a sign of fatigue) then back off it until it goes away and sound good again. Just listen to the sub, it will tell you if it does not like your setting and dont try to fool yourself, if it sounds bad it is dying a slow death. I find it helps to open the rear hatch and stand back from it a few feet and listen to it.1 point- Ernie's 2 12" Demo Car Build | New PICS p4
Hey everyone... I finally am done with highschool so were getting this puppy rolling... I am overly impressed with the output of these bad boys. Maybe a vid in the next few days. By the way box was buit out of left over wood i had laying around or it would have looked alot cleaner.. On another note.. Im getting a new tranny today..1 point- What subs?
1 point- Power Acoustik Amp
1 point- port area for round port?
1 pointIf you are having trouble fitting the round ports in the box just go with your standard slot port. The only ports that are going to let you get away with less port area are the ones with flares on both sides (psp-inc). With those you can get away with about half the port area of a slot or round (non flared) port. Andrew1 point- port area for round port?
1 point(3) 4" PSP aero ports the full 17" long would work. I know people will disagree, but I remember when David from RE was doing 150's with (2) 15" MT's and (4) 4" aero's If you do not like that idea, (2) 6" aeros is MORE than enough for a pair of 12's tuned at 33 Hz. They would have to be 24.5" long.1 point- port area for round port?
1 pointWhich driver is it, and how much power??? XX sqin per cubic foot is a way to estimate based on the fact that a 12" normally takes ~2 ft, a 15" ~4 ft, an 18" ~7 ft, etc. I am not saying it is a bad thing - it is a nice estimate for those that cannot figure out how much port area they really need. You actually determine port area based on the sub that will be used, the amount of power that will be used, and the tuning frequency. It is about air velocity. I have said it many times before. . .Do you think an 18" sub with 6mm of excursion and 300 watts applied will require the same amount of port area as an 18" sub with 27mm of excursion and 3000 watts applied just because they require the same amount of net airspace? Once again, it will not hurt if the lower powered driver has the additional port area, but if space is tight, it is not required. . . Also note that a flared PSP port does not require as much port area to operate properly vs. a non-flared round port or a slot port. Brian1 point- port area for round port?
1 pointMan, didn't know that the area of a circle wasn't general knowledge.1 point- port area for round port?
1 pointwith 17 per, there will be no audible port noise. if you go with psps, no turbulence as well.1 point- port area for round port?
1 point- port area for round port?
1 pointfyi you should do 3 6inch ports, thatll put you up to almost 17 per. but Round ports are more efficient than square ports. did you tell the DC rep you will be using round ports??? reason being is More air is traveling in open air than against the walls because of the ratio between sqin of port and perimeter of the port.1 point- port area for round port?
-1 pointswow at this thread. all everyone is trying to do is dog on him. thats what im talking about... and notorious get out, your 7th post is that. fukka you was only here for 2 days and a week and you already talkin shiit.-1 points - XCON Tucson Arizona Tour @ Southwest Audio Fest May 2010