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Just wanted to share this incredible build with you guys. 83 pages and still not finished. Attention to every detail. BERYLLIUM BMW 323ci. - CARSOUND.COM Forum Some pics so you know what you are going to find in the thread: And many many more beautiful stuff. Enjoy.

Awwww....... The way you work with wood is an art. Ten thousand people could try this and never perfect it the way you have. Plus, it encourages new designs to be thought of. Anyone can build a box.....It takes a master to create a masterpiece. And I would be proud if people wanted to "copy" my designs, It would only mean that I'm doing something people actually like! You're like the Yoda of enclosure designs !!! All the rest of us aspire to do the great work that you do, or even to just come close.

Little highlight real I took from the Tucson Show.

2nd Batch Of pics, Of The material. Well.... Most Of It more pics of new material used in the build will be seen in future Pics Quick Sketchup Of the Electrical. Dont think im planning on using the Solenoid Tho. General overview of the box setup Mr Bro and his GF 5 Sheets Ready to Go Upclose Wanted to go with Birch but it was $45 a sheet And i needed 5.. Basics to any build

My 4 Auras....

The 2nd gen of the original bad boy..... Like I said, I used 4 of these... They were devasting in the huge auditorium I had them in... Aurasound NRT18-8 NRT18-8 Pro Sound 18" Woofer NLA from Madisound Also, another long time bad-ass super efficient 18 that is truly a subwoofer.... I have used 2 of these before, they are awesome, but again, real expensive.... http://www.mccauleysound.com/accessory_overview.cfm?ID=126 This stuff always gets me thinking... I just want to build a wall with 2 or 3 nice efficent 18s and power it with around 100 watts..... And just destroy people....

lol, you won't think so when you see it. Especially bolted to an 18" basket. Of course, motor size really means nothing over all.

wasn't able to get alll the old epoxy out in the crease but it's definately good enough (i only had a square sander ) recone kit will be here today as long as UPS doesn't fuck up

heres a new setup I did in my car....... DP 18 in 5.5 cubes with around 80" of port on 1500 RMS.......may look a little rough, but its knockin like Jehovah's

If I had to do a single sub, high efficiency set-up right now, I would use the TC sounds version of the Aura NRT18 prosound driver. I has a low Fs, a ton of stroke and real world 1w/1M 94db+ sensitivity... And dual 2 ohm coils.... Only problem is, it costs over $1000... But I would say that is probably the highest efficiency sub you could really get right now that would be right at home in a car.... Besides maybe a McCualey 6174..... Which I have used in the past, bad motherfucker also... The only problem when you start looking at subs that push the 100db 1w/1M threshold is that they aren't really subs anymore. Fs goes way up, stroke goes down...... They have to give something to get something.... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-674 Put it in a 10+ ft3 box tuned at, I dunno 50 or 60 Hz with a vent you could walk through and 100 watts would be retarded loud.... I built a pair of subs using 4 of these 18s and used 1000 watts per woofer... It was crazy... I know TC doesn't list the Spl as 1w/1M but the original NRT18 was rated that way (I need to see how thay rate it) and was even higher..... I don't think they dropped the efficiency too much.... If they have, then this whole plan doesn't work, lol...

What size Dcons do you have? What kind of output do you get? Sealed or ported? Thinking of a couple for a car I'm building now (I build custom cars) I did an install with a 12" DCON. 12" DCON in Mazda Protege5 - SSA Car Audio Forum

SSA is always at the top of my list.

ad us to your store list XS Power Batteries & More @ SSA

Liked this pic for some reason, gonna look real good when I organize the wires. Put another layer of mat on, this is what it looks like now. I've glassed inside boxes on the wood, but never something like this with the cloth not against anything hard behind it. So I guess you could say that it's my first time glassing. Doesn't look too bad imo, just some places to smooth out.

Doing a lil glass work today. Burns like hell when it gets on the skin lol. Cloth up. First layer of resin on the cloth, tons of mat coming next lol. My lil fan doing work on those fumes lol.

Forgot to even mention yesterday that Cms (suspension compliance) doesn't directly affect sensitivity Let's take an example of the BTL, a high power handling SPL-oriented subwoofer. It has the following relevant parameters (dual 1ohm version): Fs - 39.3hz, Qes - .21, Vas - 25.7L. If we plug this into the formula for calculating sensitivity, we find; SPL = 112+10*LOG(9.64*10^(-10)*39.3^3*25.7/0.21) = 90.5db Now let's take the same driver and double the stiffness of the suspension, meaning suspension compliance (Cms) would be halved. This changes the relevant parameters (per WinISD) to: Fs - 55.9hz, Qes - .303, Vas - 12.8L. If we plug these parameters into the same sensitivity formula, we find; SPL = 112+10*LOG(9.64*10^(-10)*55.9^3*12.8/0.303) = 90.5db So we cut the compliance of the suspension in half (doubled stiffness), but the sensitivity of the driver remained unchanged. You can alternatively calculate driver efficiency with the following formula; Efficiency = (BL^2 * Sd^2) / (Re * Mms^2) * 5.445*10^-4 Which you can see, neglects to reference the suspension compliance or stiffness.

sure here ya go, not in order or anything

That's fantastic!! I wish I was close enough to hear it as well. Out of idle curiosity, what settings have you ended up with thus far? (crossover points, slopes, and phasing?) I think it's particularly good for those who may not fully understand what correct phasing and tuning can accomplish to hear it from someone who's recently spent some time working heavily on tuning. Any chance you could give some details some time on the testing and the differences you heard when things started to come together?? Of course results will vary for all, but you could give some good insight as to why it's worth the trouble, I think. When I first installed the raw drivers, I played with each set individually. I listened with them at full range got famillair with what they where capable of. Then I trimed the xover points to keep what I wanted as a rough setting. At first nothing sounded that good. I could hear some sounds so clear and other frequencys where non exsistent, The Comb Filtering effect. This is where phasing comes in, once I switched the drivers side full range out of phase almost all anomaly's disappeared!!!!! Next was the Aura midbasses, They too were barking at each other and having some cancellation. Not suprizing concidering they are air pistons and pointed directly at each other. I switched the drivers side midbass out of phase and BAM, I was getting assalted with the kick drum!!! Lastly the monster BTL sub in the trunk. At first the sub was barking from behind me, even crossed @50hz. I switched the phasing and OMG I can't believe this beast can blend. Sounds like its in my LAP!!!!! The tricky thing about blending a sub is that when they are out of phase, they sound louder SO MOST novice will think thats what sounds best BUT it will NEVER blend. My advice for testing phasing is listen for the driver you can pick out the easiest, the one that sounds out of place. Sometimes the out of phase driver will sound like its barking over everything else. The other thing to listen for is canallation, So if one driver seems like its not making any noise then you may be getting canallation. There is ALOT of different phase combos, but I don't think its necessary to run through them all, just change as needed. Back to the x-over points. Well at first I asked myself what I concidered sub bass and midbass. I concider sub bass as 50hz and down and mid bass as 50hz thru 400hz. So thats where I started. I then did sweeps of x-over points and slopes to see what occured. I tryed shallow slopes with a ton of underlap, I tryed steep slopes with overlap just to hear the different effects it had on the sound stage. After all that I ended up with: sub: ssf @30hz / LPF @50hz 12db slope Midbass: HPF @50hz 12db slope / LPF @400hz 12db slope Full rangers: HPF @500hz 12db slope I have no underlap @ the sub/mid point which really helps put the sub in my lap. I did a little underlap inbetween the mid and the full range, this keeps from having the same frequencys coming from seperate sources and confusing the sound stage. I can get the full rangers to play lower but then the mid bass gets anemic, And like wise I can get the mids to play higher but then it brings the sound stage down. Next the fun part, Gain matching. I had been listening up to this point with everything set low. Now that I had the signals trimmed up I cranked up the Fostexs and these beautys REALLY came to life!!!!! Then I cranked up the mids until they were over bearing and then backed them off a little until the just started to become an extension of the full rangers. I have sub level control on the HU so I have the sub gain pretty high and just add as needed with the HU. Some days I like to get assalted with Sub bass and other days I like it mellow. I will say that with the correct phasing on the sub and crossing @50 that no matter the level, The sub still blends and sounds AMAZING!!! Then I did some "time alignment" . the T/A is straight forward, measure lenghts, do a little math, set everything and then listen with my eyes closed as I sweep the setting back and forth alittle until satisfied. Lastly I tuned a little with the EQ. I abide by the rule of "if you want something to sound better, take away. If you want something to sound different then add". first I had to boost at 40hz cause my box is so pecky @32hz. Then I Took away a little at 6.3khz to get rid of some bite. Other than that everything is flat. I DO NOT have any "Media expanders" on except for the satillite radio, which needs it. Let me know if you Got any questions. I am not the greatest with words SO I may of left something out.

A little update. Things have slowed way down, so I wanna pick it up again. Threw the two 10"s in a 4th that I built for my gf in for something temp. Started to try to round out all of the seem and corner areas. But when I figured out that it would a shitton of putty I was like F that lol. And what it looks like now with the temp setup in.

I really don't know how they arrived at that figure. There are multiple ways to manipulate sensitivity. The website lists a sensitivity of 96.4db, but the T/S I found were from a CA&E article that listed rated sensitivity at 98.2db, which would be a 9db difference. It could be a difference in power (5x more power for a 7db increase, 8x the power for a 9db increase). It could be a difference in "measurement style", meaning it might be an "in car" measurement. Or, decreasing the distance of the measurement by half (.5m instead of 1m) would result in a 6db increase in output, so they may have varied the measurement distance by some amount. If they wired the driver to 4ohm and drove it with 2.83V, that would be a 3db increase. Halving the distance a 6db increase. Combine the two and you have a 9db increase. Or just wiring the driver to 1ohm and giving it 2.83V would also be a 9db increase.

Sigh........ This is a case of not being able to take the specifications at face value....Massive is simply playing a numbers game. As I outlined in the Sensitivity article that I linked to earlier (which apparently went unread ), sensitivity "ratings" are not created equal. But if we have the T/S parameters, we can level the playing field with one simple formula I couldn't get the manual on Massive's website to work (the T/S parameters are all blank and Adobe Reader gives me a font error), but from what I could find the relevant T/S for the DMX 12, which is rated 96.4db sensitivity on Massive's website, are; Fs - 31.1hz, Vas - 61.46L, Qes - .33 If we plug those numbers into the formula from the aforementioned unread article, we would find; SPL = 112+10*LOG(9.64*10^(-10)*31.1^3*61.46/0.33) = 89.3db The ACTUAL 1w/1m sensitivity isn't quite as high as advertised there with the "manufacturer rated" sensitivity, eh? I have no doubt you would find an equivalent difference between the actual 1w/1m sensitivity and the "manufacturer rated" sensitivity of the DMX 15 aswell. If anyone can find the T/S parameters, we could "set the record straight" so to speak.

Got a lil more done today. Couldn't get a good pic of the whole thing lol. Gonna start on the port and baffles later this weekend or next week.

My gf wanted to do something, so I mixed her up some putty. That's all for now, gonna try to work a lil more on it tomorrow.

Why don't you just get some 18s or whatever that will fit? And if you're doing all this, why not just wall it? But most likely in a non-wall situation, either subs and port up, subs up port back, or subs/port back will be best. Anything forward in an SUV is basically never better unless it's walled.

Pretty close to the roof. Look at all that damn sawdust lol.

Fitting the top. Had to do it in two pieces because one wouldn't fit between the A-pillars to get it in haha. There will be layers of 2x4's in the middle where the port will be. Gonna start organizing there better pretty soon.

this is the 12" that's in that box. actual pics tmm. did this earlier

so the tens i got were weak, but i took pictures of it all.. i'm already upgraded to one rockford 12" P2 in this same box. i just made a new face plate like you see for the tens... it actually sounds good and hits. i'll have pics of that tomorrow. this is an old an box a single kicker 10" L5 went and bought this

Didn't get too much done today, too much running around. But a lil was done. Top in back. Starting on the front. Quartered

here's the problem. 1st layer 2nd 3rd.. can't really see but there are holes 4th

nevermind.. started today.

took some pictures the other evening after i cleaned her up..

first cut couple more.. the baffle pieces.. which are glued and setting overnight

started to build a new box today.. about the same size (4.0^3) but the tuning is lower and will be around 32 hz. also it's made out of 3/4" MDF unlike my current one that is 1".. but the new one has a double baffle unlike the other. i made pretty good progess but once the sun went down i kept making stupid little mistakes so i'm done until tmm. hoping to have it done by late tmm afternoon but we will see.

oh and i finally switched my speaker wire to 8 gauge and found a MUCH better ground for my battery. yes it's sanded so the results are good: it definately got louder, by a very good amount in my opinion. and my voltage drop isn't as bad with the new ground and it seems like it goes back up faster too.

more.. more.. a little more.. some more.. and a little more..

so yesterday on easter i finally got to the trunk. i ripped out all of the remaining carpet etc along the sides. and i took out the rug on the trunk floor and the wood piece over the spare tire well. the second skin i had left was enough to get me what you see in the pictures.. so i will be buying some more soon. here's some pics gutted

numeroa dos.

numero uno

If you give me all those set ups i can beat them with a walmart sub..... ALL DEPENDS ON INSTALL VS threads are worth shit.