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if you're driving daily then you should be fine. get a volt meter to watch the voltage. maybe two; one on each cell. stay save above 12 V at least.

We really had no idea how dusty these where until we saw the photos.

Not necessarily. Anyways..."optimal" is a matter of opinion. There are advantages, disadvantages and trade-offs involved with all of the various alignments and a single formula is not going to be comprehensive enough to encompass all of these various factors. What's optimal for one driver or one goal may not be optimal for a different driver or a different goal. This is one of the main reasons you hear things like "you can't model a Fi BTL". You can, the physics are the same. The problem is that when you run the driver's parameters through the formulas for "optimal" enclosures meeting certain target curves such as flat frequency response, the results are nonsensical simply because the driver's parameters don't allow it to meet those target curves. Or if the formula you are using is the formula for optimally flat frequency response, you may be trading off low end extension or end up with too much low end extension for the environment, in which case that "optimally flat frequency response" won't be optimally flat in the actual environment. If you really want to know formulas, DIY Subwoofers has a lot of various formulas to sift through. Being a big proponent of empirical analysis, I find formulas extremely useful. However, when dealing with things like ported enclosures it's best to not focus or limit yourself by the formulas themselves but instead use an accurate analysis tool, such as an enclosure modeling program, to design boxes based on the given set of goals you are trying to achieve.

I have been playing with Grandma's car (1996 Mercury Sable) built another box 3.8 cubes tuned a 35hz. Some testing. I have an Audiocontrol Epic160 its harder to hit always is 3 to 4 DBs lower than the TL. I wanted to show you didn't have to spend money on high price subs. I have 2 Kicker CVX 10s 600w each. First test on a Kicker 1000.1 at 2ohm 850w cost $350 - 139bd maybe a 141 or a 142 on the TL Second test on a Audiopipe 1500D at 1ohm 1500w cost $200 - 143bd maybe a 145 or a 146 on the TL All test were done on music so maybe a 150db peak on spl not bad for 2 10s. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p20ym34Tgzk

Hello, I want to tell you my feeling after changing my sub enclosure. Some people are afraid of going sealed with the Xcons, and want advices. I had a 3.5 ft3 sub box, tuned to 32 Hz. Design was made by Fisher Customs (need the new ones JBL Camry, please). My car is a hatchback car, and I had the sub and port facing up. I loved it, but I could not put a bottle of water (or whatever) in the trunk, and the amps were not breathing right : no room at all. I made a friend (he has an Xcon 15" too) build a sealed box for me : dim are (70 x 40 x 40 cm), so 27.6" x 15.7" x 15.7 ". I think they fit in the ones provided by ssa. I have a lot more room in the trunk and I like that ! I can put some groceries in it, or some tools I had under the seats !!! I have the sub facing the rear of the car , because i put back the hatch cover. Honestly, I was afraid of loosing output, as I'm still a basshead ! I can't say I lost something. The bass still hits so hard . I did not have time to make serious listening sessions, but so far so good. I'm sure it goes lower now, I can feel it easily. I set the ssf to the low, but I think I will try to run it a little higher, like around 20 Hz. What do you think about it ? I will give you more info later, as I get used to it. I will post some pics of the box and the trunk later. Not too much sun today !