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I would run all batteries parallel instead of having each one ran to the alternator individually.

The amp is 1 ohm stable so get a D2 ohm sub and wire it like this:

While we like to make sales, I'm the first to tell a customer not to pay for an upgrade or option if it truly isn't needed. In this case, I wouldn't do it. Only a ever so slight motor advantage with the new singles, and some soft parts upgrades (especially if you have a really old 3 stack). If your current sub gets too tired, a recone will make it like new. Thanks, Scott

About a hundred dollars.

Just plug it in and play it like you normally would. Speakers do not need a dedicated "break-in" time. A couple minutes of hard play will sufficiently loosen the suspension.

I'm assuming it's 200w/ch @ 4ohm given the name......is the power supply too weak to support more power at lower impedances? Or another design constraint such as current capabilities on the output transistors? For some reason a lot of companies have been doing this practice lately with there 4 and 2 channel amps, giving a lot of power at 4 ohms and not double that at 2 ohms like they used too. IA, Audioque just to name a couple of others VERY hard to actually double the power as you half the impedance. Twice more current needed and the rail voltage drops, hindering the actual power output.

I suggested sealed because I presumed part of the cause behind thermally overpowering the driver was that the low Q resulted in a "thin" type of midbass sound, which he attempted to compensate for by applying more power. In which case, sealing the driver and getting better response might help solve some of the problem, and he seemed to enjoy the sound of the Aura's in the sealed enclosure. IMO, that sounds like a pretty reasonable option for him considering he already has the pods built that he essentially just needs to close off the backside of to create a sealed enclosure for the drivers.

Depends on what processing options or set up you want. I plan on a Pioneer DEX-P99RS (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/DEX-P99RS). But my cheap ass nature is preventing me from dropping those duckets on a receiver. The DEH-P880PRS (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/DEH-P880PRS?tab=B) is also an option. While it is discontinued, it can still be found. Then you have stand alone processors. Audiocontrol makes some of the best. Look into the DQXS. I like the dash mounted control for those as well. I am thinking about running my Milles and the Anarchys in a 3 way. I figure the Milles in a kick pod and the anarchys sealed up in a door box. I am still on the fence about which route I will be following, albeit the AC or the p99. I really like the P99, but I might opt to go with the AC instead... Who knows though, I may do like I already said I would do and leave my system alone. I am very pleased right now, and I just don't know that I have the want to anymore.

I am just not a fan of expecting such a small speaker to provide such a dynamic range. I guess it is more a personal preference, but I would never do it. Sure, tuning will be much easier, but the reality of the situation is that a 3 way will work better. As the small driver is pulling such a high workload from the lower register, reaching a fairly high excursion and realizing a rise in Qts where Bl is becoming markedly more parabolic, you are demanding the driver to perform such delicacies as the harmonics or decay from a cymbal crash... it is just not a recipe for good sound quality. I personally feel with all the work J is putting into it, he will be able to get it tuned right. It isn't like so many other active installs I see where people just toss drivers in and set their crossovers and call it active... he is working on manipulating the speakers through enclosure design and placement. I think he can get it done. This is a car and being so as you know many rules go out the window. It is sort of like using a full ranger at home. The trade-off's are the same, but there is a benefit from a point source as you and I have discussed when it comes to driver spacing. In this case the spacing is zero. He also isn't having the 3 playing that low, at least not in a normal full range mode which lightens the load. Some tweeter to add sparkle at the top would indeed help, but I find that a lot less necessary in a vehicle than in a normal listening environment. I have heard a couple unbelievable installs that relied on a 3" to pull all the way to the top. From the advent of a first attempt at running active it is always the install that baffles the users. Allowing a small driver to be placed on axis and up high REALLY help the stage. Add to that the lack of knowledge of crossovers and what needs to be done and having only two drivers to cross between is a HUGE advantage. In a perfect world he could fit a 4" and a tweet up in his dash, but again I am not sure without some hours of playing that the result would be better. Tuning is not currently the OP's strength and learning with the setup he has is a stellar idea.

Everything the same just change the piece in the picture to the length shown.

Don't take 2" off the port it won't change that much, you need to take more like 15" off to get the enclosure to 3.52ft^3 @ 33hz.

500 watts wont make a difference to ear or meter (if so by maybe a tenth of a db if that). I wouldnt do it and just save up for what you really want or the power you really need.

No problem at all

Hopefully you got the D1 version so you can wire it in series to 2 ohms and get the most out of your amp: POWER ACOUSTIK CPT1-2000 RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 670 watts x 1 RMS Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 870 watts x 1 Wire D1 sub like this:

and welcome to the forum. If you already have the amp then no it wont be too much for the Fi Q. What coil version did you get D1 or D2?

Yeah that 300A should be fine by the battery since your highs amp wont be pulling that much amperage when playing and your sub amp wont be at 300A all the time neither.

It depends if you want to go the cheap route or expensive route, when it comes to PA speakers most will go the cheap route when going with multiple speaker set ups (2 or 4 per or more per door). Now if you want to go the expensive route then you will probably just doing one speaker and tweeter per door. Its not that expensive but a single driver will and can cost you up from $100-200, depending on your needs/power and size. Brands include: Faital Pro, Whip Audio, EV, Selenium, Eminence, Soundstream, Hertz SV/ST Line, Audiopipe, Power Acoustik, Beyma, B&C, Crescendo just to name a few. www.usspeaker.com www.parts-express.com These are a few sites that I use to get my speakers and look at different brands and selections.

Definantly in the near future I wouldnt mind starting on my home theatre setup and wouldnt mind giving these a try.

Check this link out: SAX-100.4D New [sAX-100.4D] - $365.00 : dB-r Electronics, Online Store

nice name pussy wooped.

that is the ugliest riviera i have ever seen. good luck doing.. whatever it is you are doing. looking at your other builds you're gonna need it