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I cant take credit for this, I found it on another forum and saved it.

The Big 3 Are: 1. negative battery wire to ground - just replace the negative batt. terminal and wire and ground it to the factory location 2. engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chasie with a bigger wire (maybe 4 guage) 3. alternator to batt - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. DO NOT exchange wires just add a extra one. make sure it fused the same size as your factory fuse. hope thats helps Note on #2- Some cars have a batt-engine block connection stead of chassis to engine block...

Hey there people, Alan is finally back and ready to compete again September 29th in Brazil, PR He did 181.2db with his new car setup !! Now with 5 subs check it out Im pretty sure we are going to see a 182db score soon just more info, i still cant get a hold of him to ask more questions but this is what he posted on dbdrag.com http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/36/826.html thanks Hall and every one here in the forum... nice show... its my first burp in brazil than we just did smal score for now.i use 56hz doing 181db at low frequence... the real 180db i have 4 amps(Stetsom 14k2e)Linked and 6 subwoofers(2 18s and 4 12s] uuuuu... about the car be legal or not we are talking about extreme cars, they allways going to be crazy ... the name is extreme class , than lets go extreme...

Too bad the charts are completely wrong. They are calculated assuming that the entire diameter of the sub is usable cone area when that isn't nearly the case. They don't even really give a ballpark comparison between sub sizes either since a 1" wide surround on an 8 will have a much greater effect on Sd than a 1" surround on a 12.

Here's another chart, may be easier to read

Multiple woofers = More motor force, more area to dissipate heat, (sometimes) more cone area. Cone area rules all, i've heard 6 12's that was loud as balls... but only on 1.5 KW RMS. for the multiple woofers will you have ENOUGH space for the port needed for four 12's. These are all things you need to take into account, also you need to factor in woofer displacement also. 567.05747397296 In^2 for 2 18's 678.58401317538 In^2 for 6 12's

Most of my O/S amps

Moved to the manufacturer-specific forum.

Very sorry about your trouble with these. For everyone reading this, we are shipping his set back, and sending out a brand new set. Thanks for your business! We really appreciate it! Yep! And Im glad and proud to say that SSA are the best when it comes to customer service! 110% satisfied!

Big 3 Wiring for better voltage which will decrease drops and increase steady voltage at idle and bumping. You dont replace your wire, you can add on to the existing one's but is up to you if you want to replace them (depending on how simplified or complicated your wiring is such as the positive wire). Depending on the factory wires you have go with 4 gauge or bigger, 1/0 AWG is preferred and recommended especially if you have an HO Alternator. You can fuse the wire between battery and alternator if you want to this is also personal preference (some do just to be safe but if your wiring it right and tight you should be fine without it). I also recommend that you do the ground wires first just to make sure you have enough wire, connectors or whatever to finish the job. 1.) Battery's Negative post to Car's Frame. 2.) Alternator Bolt (that attaches the alternator to engine) or Engine Block to Car's Frame 3.) Battery Positive post to Alternator's Positive Terminal. *** I noticed that if you double up the wire on the battery negative to car's frame it does help out on voltage and not recommended at all just sharing my results from adding a second wire.*** For my Big 3 I did mine like this: 1.) I replaced the 4 guage wire that was on my battery's negative post going to the car's frame. I took out the old wire and added two 1/0 AWG wires. Two runs of 1/0 AWG 2.) I replaced the 4 gauge wire that was on my engine block going to the car's frame. I took out the old wire and added one 1/0 AWG wire. Engine Block Car's Frame 3.) I have not did the wire from battery's positive terminal to alternator's positive terminal yet since my main battery is in the trunk (as you can tell in above pictures). I will get around to upgrading this wire, I will not replace this wire at all. I will just simply add on 1/0 AWG wire when I get an HO Alternator but for now it is fine with the 4 gauge factory wiring.

I would say yes, an spl could play music. Could it win an sq comp... prolly not. why dont you tell us hat you know, and well tell you if your right. rather than having someone write a 10 page paper and wasting space. Just a thought.