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Hey now, Homeaudioforum.net has a cooking section. Make me answer there.

Well beyond the decimal place, your tens place is also inaccurate and by a crapton. Your "point" of testing is no more accurate than having two amps and listening to them an hour a part and picking a power level for each. For all I know your idea of "usable" is 30% distortion, hell if it is on a sub I would suspect that there are more people with their subs near 30% than near 0.07% in this world. By a landslide. As an aside, you also left frequency out of the equation. Do yourself a favor, grab anyone you don't know off a forum that lives near you and have them do the exact test you did. If it is truly a blind test the results won't even be within 25% of your numbers. Subjective or scientific. You can't have both and you chose subjective. Just don't put a number by it as it tells the internet nothing. If you want to do scientific then by all means I would love to go out of my way to support your site. The internet could use a site like that, but beware as we are just barely touching the surface of what is truly required to make it repeatable AND real.

Interested in what you used for a consistent load as well as how you measured the current and distortion. I wonder if I should repost our discussion from the for sale thread? Could move it or merge the threads if you like. I posted this here a day before responding in your for sale thread. Yea, lets merge them. This is a good discussion, and I think others would benefit from it.

Cancellation in the subbass isn't really a problem in an automobile, the dimensions are too small. Basically as long as you have all of the subs pressurizing the cabin at the same time, you're good.

No "audible" distortion is WAY over what the power specifications of the amplifier are set at which is exactly why they may or may not be under rated. You do see how big a flaw that is right? You cite 0.07% above for distortion and then its rated power. Obviously if you cranked that up to 5% the power numbers will scream upwards as well so then it becomes what is audible to you... If your goal is to do testing and promote your site you really should do it in a way that is at least is scientific and something you can defend. I also think that the argument for using a speaker as a load is a crock. Sure it is real world for the setup that YOU have, but not for anyone else. It will also bias the test results once you start to mix it up with other amplifiers. And please stop citing numbers a digits that are WAY beyond the uncertainty in your measurement devices. There is a reason that in rudimentary Physics one of the first things they teach you is about significant digits.

The HCCA is it's low Fs due to a monster 4" coil, it's not a bad woofer but not the best option. I would pick a Mayhem as well, the DC woofers are based off Scott Atwell's designes at RE, the ones he has since improved and the technology is used by Fi/AA.

Compromise. In order to obtain a higher maximum amperage output, idle amperage decrease, and vice versa.

I think people tune low and then can't "hear" enough output so they turn it around to make the FR peak higher/narrower or to acheive cabin gain. The problem now is that FR isn't as predictable, due to unknown trunk volume. Whenever you have a 3db shift in signal it will be audible and prehaps memorable. My opinion is ppl that like the rear facing would be happier tuned higher or with a BP alignment, BUT maybe its the cabin gain that the rear facing gives. I am all about knowing the physics of why it happens. I am glad to see Anton contributing, because I know he has done alot of testing on the subject lately. Interesting about the side facing. +1 for trying something different atleast. I assume the physhics behind it are either that the BP effect is making the FR peak at a more audible freqency or the cabin gain is just right. AS Jay-cee knows my BTL is forward facing, sealed from the trunk, tuned 32hz in 5 cu ft and crossed at 50hz. When I want more audible output from my current setup I boost the EQ at 40hz, BUT I am in control of the effect when I want it. (which isn't very often) Ignorance is bliss, SO I guess some of us must be in BLISS. My past setups include sealed, ported, and 4th order BP alignments. I tryed each box forward facing, rear facing, and firing up, but never sideways. I have owed hatchbacks(my favorite, love the loaded horn effect) coupes, seadans, and trucks(love the cabin gain), Never a van or a station wagon.

I am guessing horrible sounding because they where not powerfull enough to tune for the true lows, so you settled for the rearfacing for the added output of the BP effect of firing into your trunk. I think with 2000+ watts that this will no longer be a problem. IF you are after the TRUE lows that surrond you and pressurize the cabin without any colorization or audibleness then do forward facing with a low crossover point. (narrow the frequecy band you are giving the sub, via crossover*, to get only the TRUE lows without anything audible) *via crossover oposed to from the BP effect, with the cleaner signal=handle more power.