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I don't know how much longer the weather will hold so I'm trying to get this done quickly. I don't have anything to listen to right now except for the tires that need to be replaced. I've been working on this for ~ 4 days now, of and on. There have been many on this forum, too many to list, that have given suggestions on equipment and others that pushed me in the right direction in my mid bass thread. Thanks to all of you!! I soon will have a front stage that makes me want to just go out and listen again. The head unit >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eclipse AV 8533 for now. Fountek FR88's.................powered by a JL 300/2.......................220 hertz and up. Peerless sls # 830946's..... powered by a sundown sax 125.2........200 hertz - ~ 75 hertz. Eclipse 88120ti dvc........... powered by a saz2000d......................65 hertz and down. I still need to redo the enclosure for the 88120, but that may have to wait until spring, we'll see. The FR88. The Peerless SLS The 88120 ti, not part of the front stage but part of the system. This is the victim, about to be violated and it knows nothing. I removed allot of the deadening already, what a pain in the a**! See you later xr--570. On to the enclosures. I started last Saturday, I think, with some enclosures for the front doors to house the SLS's, 4 of them total ( ~.3c.f. each sealed). I only have a metabo, jig saw and a welder. I really miss the equipment in the fab shop right about now, everything takes 4 times as long at home, oh well I'll stop bitching. This is a wonderful machine to have at home. Let's cut and shape some steel, 11 gauge by the way. I cut ~ half way through the steel then bend by hand. I'll fit this with finger clamps and pipe clamps as I go. A little later. I had to offset the chamber to clear the front window track, hence the angle. After some welding. The welds don't look the best, I needed to move quickly to keep the heat/warpage to a minimum. The added plate is to clear the magnet, oops. These enclosures will bolt into the door, lesson learned, i added some tabs to do this. I also have welded some 8-32 nuts to the backsides of the mounting holes. That's a big hole in the door. The test fit in the door with the mounting tabs. I still have allot of cleanup and deadening to do. With the front plate. I swear there must be a nest around here. The first one, in my mid bass thread was on my head, this one showed up right after I put the plywood bench in the garage. At least he wasn't on my friggin head again. I moved on to the FR88' mounting locations. I chose the A pillars and aimed them, thinking they'd be easier to wrap. Is it just me or does super glue only set quickly when it's on you fingers? I moved on to the hot glue instead. Drivers side. Pass. side. I thought about it over knight and changed my mind. I decided to go with the sail panels instead. I pulled the door panels off, prepped them and created a mold to mount the FR88's on. I figured I could get away with only wrapping the pod and having them look decent on the sail as opposed to having to wrap the whole A pillar. I aimed them, again. I then wrapped them. I'm using polishing cloth up til this point. I'll reinforce the pods on the inside after they're cured with fiberglass mat. Wrapped. First coat of resin. I don't like to apply resin to the mating surface of the speaker if possible, I want it to be flat as possible. The cloth will be cut away later. The ugly little SOB's, for now. I'll get back on the pods and the doors either Thurs. or Fri.. I need to get this done while the weather is still good.

I'm doing a pair of old school JL 12W3s mainly because they have been sitting in my basement for 10 years and I'm sick of looking at them. 2 cubes each tuned to about 31hz or so. I will be using 4" areo ports also. Got started on them tonight.

Efficiency in and of itself is a joke. What nobody understands is great you can have an "efficient" amplifier (pure class A balls out vs. class D balls out is within 7% of each other efficiency wise) A 94.1dB 1w/1m speakers is only 1% efficient in converting electrical energy into acoustical energy. 99% of what you are putting into it is burned off as nothing but wasted heat...which is why cooling technology is so important.

Even though the Level 5 is a Chinese made RE MT, which was improved upon by Scott to make the BTL

If I end up liking the SQ only sort of route it would be sealed capable... definitely. Vs Q... hmm. Well Q has taken a little shift over the years from 2 soft spiders to 5. We have seen peoples interpretation of SQ take a massive shift from sealed optimal alignments at reasonable listening levels to SQ meaning that it doesnt sound like a wet dog fart like my friends 57 Hz tuned "daily" box. I am liking the idea of having a true SQ driver again. Ill get a chance to play a little more with it and the other coils next week. Thanks, Scott

Im sure we'll get some SP's done tomorrow and upload some pics.. At about 2250 SP's start catching up with XP's and that's why they are so much win on vehicles that have good ratios because we can almost get XP type numbers at idle.. If I remember correctly though, the SP's will do about 185 or so at 2400, and about 135 at 2000. I probably had about 50 hours of test time on the SP's before I was happy so the above numbers are probably dang close.. Believe it or not, we actually have a couple of alternators that will honestly do over 300 on top, and well over 200 at idle.. I'm sure we'll run some of those tomorrow as well, we just don't do much with them outside of some very special applications because there aren't many vehicles that can swing them at idle.

That isn't engine speed. That's alternator speed. So 700-800 RPMs is equivalent to in my car to 2000-2100 alternator RPMs. Remember, alternators spin faster than engines turn You'll see 170-180 at idle in your charger NO PROBLEM

Got a little more done tonight. Just have the top panel to install on this one. I use lots of screws and wood glue. I also do a very shallow counter bore on the back side of the panels to clean up the hole after drilling it and to prevent wood shavings from keeping the boards from drawing tight to each other.

That sub looks bad a*s might be too loud lol naaaa not possible!

Interfire catalog Go to page 10 for recommended enclosure size.

Look in the tech section on the home page for box designs. Fi also has some in their section on here. Or get a Kahotik !!!

The xmax on the BL is 18mm, not sure if that's one way, so either 0.7" or 1.4" of excursion, So your inch of travel falls in there just fine. Watching a youtube video doesn't dictate anything. Don't want over-excursion now do you... What are your amp settings? What type of enclosure? volume, tuning?

Zero. Stop using a DMM, trust your ears. Turn the level all the way up and slowly turn up the gain. When you see the woofer is stressed, back off the gain.

Khaotik + Icon = you a happy fella. Dont use the prefab. If you can build your own box, there are plans in the tech section.

Do you mean khaotic enclosures? They are a part of SSA, I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure Andrew from Argent Audio has access to a CNC machine and gets everything cut to spec and built for them. The thing that makes them aimed towards a specific driver is the volume, tuning is setup for daily (~33hz). So if you have another driver that needs xx amount of volume and a khaotic enclosure is close to that volume requirement then your good P.S. You'll love your icon, I had two, worst thing I did was sell mine

you made the new rides page :_) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/rides/item/ulrisa-s-xcons.html?category_id=29

Nice. I LOVE my Dcon. I'm sure you'll love the Icon.

This was in the hatch of an Escort GT with 8-12's. No decent pics of the wall and this one is a picture of a pic. Sorry for the poor quality. By sefugi at 2010-07-13

This was my first real system, in my first Ram. Then I had some issues with that Ram and getting impounded and not getting it back. So I bought another Ram, just like it, and started over again. Got the Truck then got all this from a friend for $175 and then traded amp to Jacob at Sundown. This was my whole system for a while. Temporary system in my old Ram, was trying to sell the woofers for a friend. 2 L7 15"s on 2 SAZ-1000's System after; same truck, all mine. 2 RE MT 18"s on 2 SAZ-1000's followed by a single SAZ-2000. Then I went from the wall to this, and gained a few db. Then, the transmission on the Ram went out. They wanted 3k to fix it, I declined and sold it. And bought the vehicle that got me over a 150.

You need a catalyzed paint, or an epoxy, or wrap it with something. A commercial spray-on bedliner will work as well, but it is catalyzed and rather thick. Normal paint will not stand up to much abuse even if prepped and applied properly.

Awesome. Once the echeck clears, we will process your order. These have been a much bigger hit then I had envisioned. Yeah I was ticked off that it would not let me use my debit card.....maybe because I have a PayPal balance. I was just about to purchase a BNIB SAZ-50.4 to power my ID HLCD's. But I remembered the HLCD's are 8 ohm and the 50.4 would only give me 25 watts then. I am taking a chance on the Boss, I hope it makes my horns happy! You can run them bridged on the Boss Audio, thats what I plan on doing with my Horns when I get them (just keep the gains all the way down, headroom will be your friend). I am running the front stage active. Channel 1&2 for horns, channel 3&4 for 6.5 midbass drivers. I am using my deck to power the rear fill for now which should be about perfect.